Page 101
——— See
— ——
7a
3,
Guide the washer into its groove in the
right-hand bearing seat and press in
the bearing track using too] 83 90 114,
Using drift 87 90 800, press in the seals
in such a way that they will project
approximately 0.08 in (2 mm) above the
plane of the bearing seat.
Adjust the bearing campression and the
backlash.
. Press the bearing seat onto Lhe driver
shaft using tool 78 41 067,
Fit the circlip using circlip pliers.
Fit the speedometer drive.
Fit the O-ring in the groove in the
bearing seat.
473-12
Page 102
Installation
See adjustment of the differential bearing
compression and adjustment of backlash.
Ve
Check that the O-ring is mounted on
the bearing seat and place the spring
and plunger in the hole in the end of the
driver shaft.
Fit a suitable combination of shims to
the two bearing seats and mount the
seats, together with inner driver, to the
transmission,
When securing the bearing seat, check
that there is backlash. Tighten the re-
taining bolts to the prescribed torque.
Use sealing compound on the threads of
the 12 bolts.
eo
Tightening torque, differential bearing
seat:
20-25 Nm (15-18.5 Ib fl, 2.0-2.5 kfm)
/
ep.
Check the backlash by measuring in
four places.
473-13
Page 103
Master cylinder
Workshop technique. ..... . 321-1
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Workshop technique
Scrupulous cleanliness is essential when the
brake system or any part of it is dis-
mantled. Clean any dismantled parts in
brake fluid or in a special cleaning solution
for hydraulic brake components. Wipe the
parts with a clean, lint-free cloth. All
rubber parts and seals, etc., are available
in repair kits and should be replaced. Be-
fore a unit is installed, all components
should be dipped in clean brake fluid of the
recommended specification.
Master cylinder, exploded view
1. Cap
2. Fluid level switch
3. Float
4. Sealing ring
5. Brake fluid reservoir
6. Pin
7. Sealing ring
8. Stop pin
9. Cylinder housing
10. Spring, secondary piston
ll. Secondary piston
12. Sleeve
13. Spring, primary piston
14. Primary piston
15. Lock ring
Page 104
Removal
1.
Cover the front fender and place rags
under the master cylinder to obviate
damage to the paintwork in case the
brake fluid should be spilt.
Disconnect the electric cable to the
filler cap.
Disconnect the hose from the clutch
master cylinder to the fluid reservoir.
Insert a plastic stopper in the nipple of
the reservoir.
Disconnect the two brake lines at the
master cylinder.
Remove the two nuts which hold the
master cylinder to the servo unit and
remove the master cylinder.
Dismantling
ile
2.
Empty the brake fluid reservoir and
mount the master cylinder in a vice.
Tap out the tubular pins securing the
reservoir to the cylinder body.
Page 105
Remove the reservoir and by means of
a small screwdriver remove the rubber
seals from the hole for the fluid reser-
voir.
Push the primary piston into the master
cylinder and withdraw the stop pin on
the secondary piston.
Remove the circlip on the primary pis-
ton and take out the primary piston.
Remove the cylinder housing from the
vice and knock it carefully against a
wooden surface so that the secondary
piston falls out. Alternatively, the
secondary piston can be forced out with
compressed air.
Remove the springs and seal rings from
the two pistons, Keep the pistons and
their rings apart so that they can be
fitted back into the cylinders from
which they have been removed.
Caution
Never attempt to extract the seals
with sharp-edged tools which may
scratch the pistons, If necessary, use a
small screwdriver with smoothly roun-
ded edges.
Page 106
Assembly
1.
3.
After cleaning, check that the cylinder
bore and pistons are free from scrat-
ches and corrosion. Worn or damaged
parts should be replaced.
Fit new piston seals to the secondary
and primary pistons. This is made easier
if the pistons and seals are first dipped
in brake fluid. Check that the seals are
the right way round.
Mount the master cylinder in a vice,
thoroughly lubricate the cylinder bore
and carefully insert the complete se-
condary piston with the spring. Great
care must be taken to avoid damage to
the piston seals. Push in the secondary
piston by means of a clean screwdriver
and insert the stop pin.
Insert the complete primary piston in
the same way and fit the circlip.
S 7085
___ aR
Secondary piston with seals
1. Spring seat
2. Piston seal
3. Washer
4. Piston
5. Piston seal
4
wt
086
m=
ee
Primary piston with seals
1. Spring. seat
2. Piston seal
3. Washer
4. Primary piston
5. Piston seal
S 6671
Page 107
Fit the brake pads.
Top up the brake fluid, bleed the sys-
tem and check all connections for leak-
age.
With the engine switched off, return
the brakes to their operating position
by repeated pumping of the brake pe-
dal. Continue pumping until the foot-
brake just starts to operate.
Pull up the nandbrake lever five not-
ches. Continue to pump the pedal until
the handbrake operates after the lever
has been pulled up a further two-to-
four notches.
Caution
The car must not be used before bath
the footbrake and handbrake are ope-
rating properly.
Rear-wheel brake assernbly
Removal
i.
2.
Remove the brake pads (see section
517).
Disconnect. the brake pipe at the con-
nection to the brake housing. Plug the
end of the pipe to prevent fluid leaking
from the brake system.
Remove the two bolts securing the
brake housing to the end assembly of
the rear axie.
523—6
Handbrake lever
1. Neutral position (brake off)
2, Adjustment position (5 notches)
3. Full braking effort (7-9 notches)
Page 108
Handbrake system
Handbrake cable. ...... . 351-1
Handbrake lever ... 2... 2 « » 551-2
Handbrake cable
Removal
1. Remove the driver's seat. Remove the
scuff plates and fold the carpet to
provide access to the heater ducts.
2. Remove the gear lever cover. Take
care not to damage the ignition switch
light.
3. Remove the air ducts and remove the
air ducts, cover plate and then the air
ducts.
4. Disconnect the cable from the adjust-
ment nut on the handbrake lever.
9. Remove the clip holding the two cables
to the floor.
6. Remove the rubber bush in the side of
the wheel housing and disconnect the
cable from the handbrake lever at the
brake cylinder housing.
7. Pull out the cable, The simplest method
is to with draw either end of the cable
from underneath in the engine compart-
ment.
Fitting
1. Fitting is carried out in the reverse
order. The cables should cross each
other on the floor of the passenger
compartment.
2. After the new cable has been fitted,
apply the handbrake lever a few times
to stretch the cable. Use the adjusting
nut on the handbrake lever inside the
car to adjust the cable such that it will
give a maximum clearance between the
handbrake lever {at the brake housing)
and the yoke of 0.5 mm (0.19 in), as
shown in the illustration. The clearance
should be the same on both sides.
Handbrake operation
1. Handbrake lever
2. Push button
3. Pawl rod
4, Adjusting nut
Pivot pin
Circlip
Cable clip
Wheel housing grommet
Handbrake cable
~eEnay
551—1
Page 109
Handbrake lever
Removal
1. Disconnect the two cables fram the
adjust ing nuts.
2. Remove the locking pin from the pivot
pin and pull out the latter.
Fitting
To refit the handbrake lever, reverse the
removal procedure. If the paw! button,
pawl rod or any other component of the
handbrake lever has been removed, the
piosition of the pawl button must be
checked,
Up to and including 1982 models:
After the lever has been fitted and the
brake applied, the distance between the
top of the pawl button and the end of the
handbrake lever shauld be 8 + 2 mm (0,32 4
0,08 in). To adjust the pawl button, screw
it in or out on the pawl rod.
As fram 1983 models:
Screw the pawl button to the bottam of the
thread and then adjust by turning the but-
ton a maximum of one turn.
Check that the handbrake warning lamp
comes on when the lever has been pulled up
two or three notches. Adjust the switch
located under the lever, as necessary.
551—2
a
ral
$ 8/006
Page 110
Changing front coil springs and
rubber stops
Under no circumstances must the front and
rear springs be interchanged. For
differences between the springs see section
027. The springs are delivered with a
rustproof coating. If this coating has been
rubbed off, it should be touched up before
the spring is installed.
Removal
1. Remove the upper shock absorber nuts
before you jack up the car.
Caution
The maximum stroke (i.e, the down-
ward stroke of the control arm) is
limited by a built-in stop in the shock
absorber.
Therefore, remove the shock absorber
either:
- before the car is jacked up, or
- by using a jack to lift the outer end
of the lower control arm slightly.
2. Raise and block up the front of the car
and take off the wheel.
3. Apply spring compression tool
89 95 839, engaging the upper shanks
direct in the spring at the second free
turn from the top and the lower shanks
round the spring cups. These are loca-
ted on the last turn of the spring with
the colour-coded cup right beside the
end of the coil.
4. Compress the spring to give 30-40 mm
(roughly 1 1/2 in) clearance at the top.
If necessary, use a screwdriver to prize
the upper spring attachment or cup
away from the body.
Note
Do not overload the spring compres-
sion tool. Avoid letting the shanks butt
together when a nut tightener is used.