Page 41
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
When jump-starting the engine, always heed the following
warnings and cautions.
WARNING
• Battery acid (electrolyte) can cause severe bums, and will
damage the car and clothing. If electrolyte is spilled, wash the
surface with large quantities of water. If it gets into eyes, flush
them with water for several minutes and call a doctor.
• Batteries produce explosive and noxious gasses. Keep
sparks and flames away. Do not smoke near batteries.
• Do not jump-start the engine if you suspect that the battery
is frozen. Trapped gas may explode. Allow the battery to thaw
first.
• Do not quick-charge the battery (for boost starting) for longer
than one minute, and do not exceed 15 volts at the battery
with the boosting cables attached. Wait at least one minute
before boosting the battery a second time.
To jump-start the engine, place the cars close together, but do
not allow them to touch. Turn off the engine of the car wrth the
good battery. Connect the jumper cables as shown in Fig. 32.
100-19
Leave the cars running and disconnect the cables in the reverse order in which they were installed. The car with the dead
battery will need to run for about a 1/2 hour to recharge the
battery.
Overheating
If the coolant temperature is too high, find a safe place to
stop and turn the engine off. Open the hood and allow the engine to cool until the temperature gauge needle is at the lower
third of the scale. Continuing to drive an overheated car can
cause expensive engine damage.
WARNING
Do not remove the coolant reservoir or radiator cap with the
engine hot. Undoing either could spray hot coolant, and cause
bums, or damage the engine.
NOTE
If the engine cannot be safely turned off, make sure the air
conditioner is off and tum the heater to high. This will help cool
the engine until a safe stopping place can be reached.
to Ground
.,/" on engine block
o
Dead battery
Good battery
Overheating may be caused by low coolant level or a damaged V-belt. Visually check the coolant level and V-belts as
described in 110 Maintenance Program. If coolant is lost,
check the filler cap, hoses, clamps and radiator for signs of
leakage. Check for leaks at the water pump on the rear of the
engine.
If no leaks are found, add coolant after the engine has
cooled. The car can be driven, but have the cooling system
thoroughly checked as soon as possible. If replacement coolant is not available, then plain water can be used, but the coolant should later be drained and refilled with the proper mixture
of anti-freeze and water.
CAUTION
Fig. 32. Battery Jumper cables connections. Numbers indicate correct
sequence for cable attachment.
The battery is mounted in the front right corner of the engine
compartment. Connect the end of one cable to the positive
post of the good battery, and the other end of the same cable
to the positive post of the dead battery. The positive post is
marked with a plus (+) sign.
Connect one end of the other cable to the negative (-) post
of the good battery, and connect the other end of the same cable to the engine block of the car with the dead battery. Make
the connection as far away from the battery as possible, as
there may be sparks.
Do not add cold water or coolant to a hot engine. Severe engine damage could result from the sudden temperatu re
change.
If steam is coming from the engine compartment then there
is most likely a burst coolant hose or a large leak in the cooling
system. To find the leak, look for signs of coolant leakage on
hoses, at hose connections, or on the radiator. Let the engine
cool thoroughly, then add coolant or water to fill the system
and start the engine. If a great deal of water or coolant IIows
out of the hole, then the car should not be driven until repairs
are made. If there IS a slight seepage, then it may be possible
to drive a short distance, adding coolant as needed.
Have a helper start the car with the good battery and race
the engine slightly, then start the car with the dead battery.
EMERGENCIES
Page 42
100-20
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
Oil Pressure Warning Light
Towing
If the oil pressure warning light does not go out immediately
after the engine starts, or if it comes on while driving the car,
stop the engine immediately to prevent severe engine damage.
The cars covered by this manual should be towed with a tow
truck using wheel lift or flat bed equipment. Do not tow the car
on all four wheels except for very short distances to move it to a
safe place. If flat-towing the car, use the towing eyes at the front
of the car under the bumper. Set the transmission in neutral.
Check the oil level as described in 110 Maintenance Program. If the level is low, add oil to the correct level and start
the engine. If the light is still on, do not run the car at all. Have
it towed.
When towing the car from the rear with the front wheels on
the ground, a maximum distance of 30 miles is acceptable. If
the car needs to be towed further, have the front wheels
placed on dollies.
Brake Fluid Level Warning Light
The red brake fluid level warning light is an indicator of
brake fluid loss. Problems with the brake system should be
checked and repaired immediately. See 5 BRAKES for more
information.
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Indicator
If the anti-lock brake system warning indicator comes on at
normal driving speeds, the anti-lock braking system is out of
service. Under normal conditions, there will be no change in
the effectiveness of the brakes. In an emergency situation,
however, the normal anti-lock function is lost and the brakes
could lock. Check the system as described in 5 BRAKES.
Dim Lights
Headlights that are dim or gradually getting dimmer generally indicate a problem with the battery or charging system.
The battery charge indicator light may come on as the lights
are dimming. In either case, the engine and accessories are
running off of the battery alone, and will soon discharge it altogether.
NOTE
Do not tow with sling-type equipment. The front spoilers and
the bumpers may sustain damage.
Towing a Saab with an automatic transmission with the
front wheels on the ground can result in transmission damage
due to lack of lubrication. Always tow the car with the transmission lever in "N" (neutral) and the key in position "1". Saab
recommends that cars with automatic transmission be towed
with the rear wheels on the ground for no more than 30 miles
(50 km), at no more than 25 mph (40 krnlh). Be sure the transmission 'fluid has been topped off before starting the tow.
Spare Parts Kit
Carrying a basic set of spare parts can prevent a minor
breakdown from turning into a major annoyance. Many of the
following items won't allow you to do major repair work on the
car, but they will help in the event of the failure of something
that can disable the car or compromise its safety.
Spare Parts Kit - Basic Contents:
If possible, do not stop the engine urdess you have the capability to jump start it. There may not be enough power in the
starting system to restart the engine. Instead, turn off as many
electrical consumers as possible. This will reduce the current
drain and will allow the car to be driven farther before you lose
all battery power.
With the engine and ignition off, check to see if the battery
cables are firmly attached, or if there are any loose wires leading to the battery or to the alternator. Look for heavily corroded
(covered by fluffy white deposits) wires and connectors.
Disconnecting, cleaning, and reinstalling corroded wires
and connectors may solve the problem. Also check V-belt tension as described in 110 Maintenance Program.
EMERGENCIES
• V-belts for the alternator and water pump
• one or two quarts of engine oil
• a gallon container of engine coolant (premixed 50/50
anti-freeze and water)
• spare fuel pump relay, also spare main relay
• a new, unopened bottle of brake fluid (DOT 4 specifications)
• 10 amp, 15 amp, and 20 amp fuses
• upper and lower radiator hoses
Spare Parts Kit - Additional Contents
• replacement headlight (sealed beam or bulb)
• brake light, turn signal light, and taillight bulbs
• wiper blades
• distributor cap and rotor
Page 43
Maintenance Program
110-1
11 0 Maintenance Program
General. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-1
Saab Recommended
Maintenance Program
110-2
Engine Maintenance
11 0-5
Engine Oil and Oil Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-5
To change oil and filter
110-6
Coolant (Antifreeze) and Cooling System
110-7
Drive Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-8
Distributor Cap, Rotor, and Spark Plugs .... 110-10
Ignition Timing, Idle Speed,
Deceleration System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-11
Turbo Overpressure Safety Switch
(1985-1998 Turbo models)
110-11
Oxygen Sensor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-11
Crankcase Ventilation and Vacuum Hoses . 110-11
Evaporative Loss Control Device (ELCD). . . 110-11
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-12
Air Filter Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-12
Fuel Filter
110-13
Accelerator and Throttle Linkage . . . . . . . . . 110-13
Exhaust System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-13
Electrical System and
Battery Service
110-13
Electrical System Functional Check
110-13
Battery Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110-13
GENERAL
The useful life of any car depends on the kind of maintenance it receives. The procedures described in this section of
the manual include all of the routine checks and maintenance
steps that are both required by Saab under the terms of their
warranty protection and recommended by Saab to ensure
long and reliable operation of your car. Also included are
some instructions and recommendations for more basic car
care.
Some maintenance procedures, such as oil change service, require no special tools and can be carried out by almost
any interested Saab owner, regardless of his or her previous
mechanical experience. Certain other maintenance tasks require special tools and equipment. Idle speed and ignition timing adjustments are some examples. If you lack the tools or a
suitable workplace for doing any of the maintenance described in this section, we suggest you leave this work to an
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Manual Transmission
Drive Axle Joint Boots
110-16
110-17
Chassis Service
110-17
Brakes
110-17
Brake Fluid
110-18
Parking Brake
110-18
Power Steering Fluid
110-18
Windshield Washer Fluid
110-18
Ball Joints, Steering Joints (Tie Rod Ends) .. 110-18
Shock Absorbers and Bushings
110-19
Tires
,
" .110-19
Front Wheel Alignment
110-20
Body Maintenance
Air Bag System
Road Test
110-20
110-20
110-20
TABLES
a. Oil Service/Safety Inspection
b. Major Service
c. Drive Belt Tensions (measure using
special belt tensioning gauge)
d. Spark Plug Applications
110-2
110-4
110-9
110-10
authorized Saab dealer or other qualified shop. We especially
urge you to consult an authorized Saab dealer before beginning any re~airs on a car still covered by the manufacturer's
warranty.
All of the maintenance work described here is important
and should be carried out at the correct time or mileage interval. Your Saab should not be thought of as a maintenancefree machine. Correct care will protect your investment and
help you to get many years of driving reliability and enjoyment
from your Saab.
Saab is constantly updating their recommended maintenance procedures and requirements. The information contained here is as accurate as possible at the time of
publication. If there is any doubt about what procedures apply
to a specific model or model year, or what intervals should be
followed, remember that an authorized Saab dealer always
has the latest information on factory-recommended maintenance.
GENERAL
'!::.::::::.::::.,:::::::::
Page 44
110-2
Maintenance Program
SAAB RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
PROGRAM
Table a and Table b list the maintenance tasks specified by
Saab that should be done at specified mileage intervals to ensure the proper function, safety and durability of the Saab automobile under normal use. The schedules are divided into
two parts; Oil Change/Safety Inspection and Major Service.
NOTE
Aside from keeping your car in the best possible condition,
proper maintenance plays a role in maintaining full protection
under Saab's new-car warranty coverage. If in doubt about
the terms and conditions of your car's warranty, an authorized
Saab dealer should be able to explain them.
The Oil Change/Safety Inspection covers the most basic
level of routine maintenance. Saab's required Oil Change/Safety Inspection specifies changing the engine oil and oil filter, rotating the tires, and checking other systems and their
fluids. This service should be made at 7,500 mile intervals on
all models except 1992 nad later, models. On 1992 and later
models, the service should be made at 10,000 mile intervals,
beginning at 15,000 miles.
NOTE
On 1992 and later, Saab specifies a one-time 5,000 mile "First
Service", which should be done by an authorized dealer.
There is no charge for this service. For more information on
the Saab maintenance system, see your glove box information or an authorized Saab dealer.
The Major Service interval signals the need for more comprehensive maintenance and inspection. This service should
be performed every 30,000 miles.
NOTE
On 1992 and later models, the first Major Service should be
done at 35,000 miles, then at 30,000 mile intervals thereafter.
Except where noted, the maintenance items listed apply to all
models covered by this manual. The columns on the right side
of each table give quick-reference information about the jobwhether tools are needed, whetherthe procedure requires new
parts, whether the car should be warmed-up to normal operating temperature and, in some cases, a recommendation that
the job be turned over to an authorized Saab dealer because of
the need for special equipment or expertise.
Following the Saab recommended maintenance tables are
detailed descriptions of all of the tasks, in the order in which
they appear in the tables.
Table a. Oil Service/Safety Inspection
1985-1991: every 7,500 miles
1992 and later: every 10,000 miles
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Change oil and oil filter
*
*
Check engine coolant level and add as required. Check coolant freezing point. Inspect coolant
hoses and hose clamps
*
*
Check engine drive belt (V-belt) condition and tension
*
*
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel system components, fuel lines, and vacuum hoses
j-
Electrical System Maintenance
I
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Check battery terminal connections and electrolyte level. Clean terminals if necessary
Check for proper function of exterior and interior lights
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5MB RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROGRAM
Page 45
Maintenance Program
110-3
Table a. Oil Service/Safety Inspection (continued)
1985-1991: every 7,500 miles
1992 and later: every 10,000 miles
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Check automatic transmission final drive oil level and add as required
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Inspect rubber boots for inner and outer drive axle joints
-
Chassis Maintenance
Inspect brake system for damaged hoses and lines, leaks or damage
Check brake pad wear (road wheels removed)
*
Check brake (and clutch) fluid level and add as required
*
Check parking brake operation
Check power steering fluid level and add as required
*
Check windshield washer fluid level and add as required
I
Check shock absorber bushings and shock function
Inspect rubber boots for ball joints, tie-rod ends, and steering rack
Check tire pressure, including spare
*
Rotate tires. Inspect tires for uneven wear
*
Check front wheel toe-in alignment (1985-1991 models only)
*
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Body Maintenance
i
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Check operation of doors. Lubricate door hinges, stops, and locks
Road Test
Check engine, transmission, clutch, steering, and brake perfonnance. Check cruise control control and ventilation system. Check for any noises (brake squeal, rattle, etc.)
5MB RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROGRAM
Page 46
110-4
Maintenance Program
Table b. Major Service
(every 30,000 miles*)
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Change oil and oil filter
*
*
*
Flush and replace engine coolant (maximum 2-year intervals)
*
*
Inspect coolant hoses and hose clamps
*
Check engine drive belt (V-belt) condition and tension*
*
Replace distributor cap and rotor**
*
*
Replace and gap spark plugs
*
*
Inspect and check resistance of spark plug wires***
*
Check and adjust ignition timing** (all except models with crankshaft mounted EZK Ignition Hall
Sender. See 340 Ignition System for application information)
*
*
*
Check and adjust idle speed (cars with LH 2.2 Fuel Injection only, see 240 Fuel Injection for
application information)
*
*
*
Check and adjust deceleration system** (cars with LH 2.2 Fuel Injection only, see 240 Fuel Injection for application information)
*
*
*
Check turbo overpressure safety switch (1985-1988 Turbo models only)
*
*
*
*
Replace oxygen sensor** (cars with LH 2.2 Fuel Injection only, see 240 Fuel Injection for application information)
*
*
*
*
Maintenance item
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Engine Maintenance
Inspect crankcase ventilation system***
Inspect Evaporative Loss Control Device (ELCD) system***
Replace charcoal canister (1985-1990 models)**
Replace air filter element
*
Inspect fuel system components, fuel lines, and vacuum hoses
Lubricate accelerator and throttle linkage
Replace fuel filter
*
*
Inspect exhaust system
Electrical System Maintenance
Check battery terminal connections and electrolyte level. Clean terminals if necessary
j
Check for proper function of exterior and interior lights
Check headlight aim
*
*
Transmission Maintenance
Check manual transmission oil level and add as required
*
*
Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid. Remove front pan and clean transmission filter****
*
*
Check automatic transmission final drive oil level and add as required
*
*
*
*
Inspect rubber boots for inner and outer drive axle joints
continued on next page
5MB RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROGRAM
Page 47
Maintenance Program
110-5
Table b. Major Service (continued)
(every 30,000 milesOO)
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Chassis Maintenance
Inspect brake system for damaged hoses and lines, leaks or damage
Check brake pad wear (road wheels removed)
*
Replace brake fluid and flush and bleed brake system
*
*
*
*
*
Check parking brake operation
Check power steering fluid level
Check windshield washer fluid level
Check shock absorber bushings and shock function
Inspect rubber boots for ball joints, tie-rod ends, and steering rack
Check tire pressure, including spare
*
Rotate tires. Inspect tires for uneven wear
*
Check front wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe-in)
*
Body Maintenance
Check operation of doors. Lubricate door hinges, stops, and locks
Check and lubricate convertible top latches
Road Test
Check engine, transmission, clutch, steering, and brake perfonnance. Check function of instruments, controls, hom, windshield wipers, cruise control control and ventilation system. Check
for any noises (brake squeal, rattle, etc.)
* Every 12 months or 30,000 miles, which ever comes first only
**Every 60,000 miles
**oo At the first 60,000 miles, then every 12 months thereafter
oooo** An automatic transmission service is recommended every 15,000 miles if the vehicle is under the severe service conditions of trailer towing, extensive city driving or driving in
hot climates.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
on the end of the stick. The distance between the marks corresponds to approximately one quart of oil.
Engine Oil and Oil Filter
Top up the oil through the dipstick tube. Add only the
amount needed to bring the level to the maximum mark on the
dipstick, using an oil of the correct viscosity and grade as listed below. Too much oil can be just as harmful as too little.
Make sure the dipstick is screwed down properly after use.
The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located on the
in the engine block on the side of the intake manifold. See Fig.
1. Make sure the car is on level ground. If the engine has been
run, allow it to cool for about 3 minutes for the most accurate
check.
Check the level by pulling out the dipstick and wiping it
clean. Reinsert it all the way and withdraw it again. The oil level is correct if it is between the maximum and minimum marks
CAUTION
The use of fluids or lubricants that do not meet Saab's specifications may impair perfonnance and reliability, and may void
warranty coverage.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
Page 48
110-6
Maintenance Program
Front
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Fig. 1.
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Location of oil filler cap with dipstick (arrow). Remove and install by turning.
Saab Recommended Engine Oil
• SAE 1OW-3D, API Service Rating SG or SF/CD
• Alternate for extremely hot climates:
15W-40, API Service Rating SG or SF/CD
NOTE
The amount of oil that needs to be added between oil changes
varies from one engine to another. Generally, a new engine or
an engine operated routinely at high speeds will consume
more oil. It is helpful to become familiar with the rate at which
a particular engine requires oil. A sudden increase may be an
early waming of engine mechanical problems.
If the car is used primarily for short trips in slow moving traffic, or routinely operated aggressively, the oil should be
changed at more frequent intervals (twice as often) to promote longer engine life.
A complete oil change requires new oil, a new oil filter, and
a new drain plug sealing washer. The tools needed are a drain
plug socket or box wrench (19 or 13 mm), a drain pan of at
least 6 US qt. (5.6 L) capacity, and an oil filter wrench.
891 07-S 1/203
Fig. 2.
Engine oil drain plug (arrow) in oil pan underneath engine.
3. Using a socket or box wrench, loosen the drain plug. By
hand, remove the plug and let the oil drain into the pan.
WARNING
Pull the loose plug away from the hole quickly to avoid being
bumed by the hot oil. If possible, use gloves to protect your
hands.
4. When the oil 'flow has diminished to an occasional drip,
reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer and
torque the plug.
CAUTION
If using a "fast-lube" service facility for oil changes, make sure
the technician hand-starts and torques the engine oil drain
plug using only hand-tools. Using power tools can strip the
threads of the plL1g and the oil pan.
Tightening torque
• engine oil drain plug (13 mm
or 19mm wrench size)
29-39 Nm (21-29 ft-Ib)
To change oil and 'filter
1. Run the car for a few minutes to slightly warm the engine and the oil, then shut the engine off.
2. With the car on level ground, place a drain pan under
the 011 drain plug shown in Fig. 2.
NOTE
The car will not need to be raised if a shallow drain pan is
used.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
NOTE
On mid-1991 and later cars with manual transmission, the engine oil drain plug was changed from a 19mm wrench size to
a 13mm wrench size. The plugs are identical except for the
bolt head size. This change was made to reduce the possibility of overtightening the larger head drain plug and cracking
the transmission case. If replacing the larger drain plug with
the smaller plug, be sure to use a new steel washer with the
rubber bonded to the perimeter. Do not use the old design
copper drain plug gasket with the larger head bolt.
Page 49
Maintenance Program
5. Position the drain pan directly under the oil filter. Using
an oil filter wrench, loosen it in a counterclockwise direction, then remove it by hand. See Fig. 3.
110-7
NOTE
Dispose of the used oil properly. Use tight-sealing containers
and mark them clearly. Check with the place of purchase
about disposal.
Coolant (Antifreeze) and Cooling System
Cooling system maintenance consists of maintaining the
coolant level and its freezing point as well inspecting the hoses. Because the coolant's anti-eorrosion and anti-freeze additives gradually lose their effectiveness, replacement of the
coolant is recommended every 30,000 miles or 2 years,
whichever comes first. Drain and refill the coolant as described in 261 Radiator and Cooling System.
Cooling System Capacity
• 10.5 quarts (10 liters)
Fig. 3. Engine oil filter on left-hand (driver's) side of engine.
6. After the oil stops dripping, wipe clean the oil filter gasket surface on the fi~er mounting flange. Lubricate the
rubber gasket of the new oil filter with a light coating of
clean engine oil.
7. Install the filter by hand until the gasket contacts the
mounting flange, then turn the filter another 1/2 turn to
tighten it.
CAUTION
Overtightening the oil filter will make the next change much
more difficult.
CAUTION
Use only Saab original anti-freeze when filling the cooling system. Use. of any other anti-freeze may be harmful to the cooling system. If Saab original anti-freeze is not used, Saab
recommends changing the coolant every 12 months.
A translucent expansion tank, or overflow reservoir, provides easy monitoring of coolant level without opening the
system. The coolant level should always be checked when
the engine is cold. The coolant level should be between the
maximum and the minimum mark on the expansion tank, as
shown in Fig. 4.
8. Refill the crankcase with oil. Use the dipstick to check
for the correct oil level.
Engine Oil Capacity (including filter)
• 4.2 quarts (4.0 liters)
Saab Recommended Engine Oil
• SAE 1OW-30, API Service Rating SG or SF/CD
• Alternate for extremely hot climates:
15W-40, API Service Rating SG or SF/CD
9. Start the engine and check that the oil pressure warning light immediately goes out. Allow the engine to run
for a few minu,es to circulate the new oil, then check for
leaks at the drain plug and around the oil filter. Stop the
engine and recheck the oil level.
Fig. 4. RII mark on coolant expansion tank. Coolant level should be
between MAX and MIN marks.
Inspect the hose by first checking that all connections are
tight and dry. Coolant seepage indicates either that the hose
clamp is loose, that the hose is damaged, or that the connection is dirty or corroded. Dried coolant has a chalky appearance. Check the hose condition by pinching them. Hoses
should be firm and springy. Replace any hose that is cracked,
that has become soft and limp, or has been contaminated by
oil. See Fig. 5.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
Page 50
110-8
Maintenance Program
Incorrect drive belt tension can decrease the life of the belt
and the component it drives. Inspect belts with the engine off.
Twist the belt to inspect its sidewalls and bottom. Belt structural damage, glazed or shiny sidewalls caused by a loose belt,
or separation caused by oil contamination are all reasons to
replace a belt. Some of these faults are illustrated in Fig. 7.
Abrasion damage
Ozone damage
.:-====-1 ~
'~~"'''''I _~""._~"..:)::"'_T.~""~""
NOTE
Always replace both alternator belts as a matched set.
~~~~~~~-~~~;";..r.-~~••~.:.\
Heat damage
Oil damage
89110
Fig. 5. Examples of damaged coolant hoses. Any of conditions
shown is cause for replacement. Courtesy of Gates Rubber
Inc.
Tensile break
To check the freezing point of the coolant, use a hydrometer. With the engine cold, remove the cap from the expansion
tank and draw up some coolant with the hydrometer. Saab
recommends using a 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze and water,
which has a freezing point of -35°F (-38°C). If the freezing
point is too high, drain a small amount of coolant from the system and add new anti-freeze until the proper protection level is
obtained.
Glazing
,"'",-----
-------_._ -----------.
Drive Belts
Drive belts (or V-belts) and pulleys transfer power from the
engine crankshaft to various accessories. Cars covered by
this manual have four drive belts. The alternator and coolant
pump are driven by two belts, side by side. See Fig. 6.
Alternator
Cracking
__------ -o==------.
AIC compressor
Separation
Fig. 7.
89112
Examples of belt failure. Courtesy of Gates Rubber Inc.
Drive belt squealing is normally caused by incorrect belt
tension (too loose) or by a worn belt. Extremely loud squealing
may only be corrected by replacing the belt. To accurately tension the drive belts, a special drive belt tensioning tool should
be used. Correct belt tensions are listed in Table c.
89111-S1/274
Fig. 6. Drive belt configuration.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE