Page 31
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
100-9
Lift points for car lift, jack stands, or Saab-supplied jack
Floor jack lift points
(floorpan reinforcement crossmembers)
89062
Fig. 15. saab jacking points.
CAUTION
When raising the car using a floor jack or a hydraulic lift, carefully position the jack pad so that it does not damage the body.
A suitable liner (wood, rubber. etc.) should be placed between
the jack and the car so that the underbody will not be damaged.
3. Raise the car slowly.
WARNING
Watch the jack closely. Make it stays stable and does not shift
or tilt. As the car is raised, the car will want to roll slightly and
the jack will want to shift.
To raise car safely
1. Park the car on a flat, level surface.
2. Place the jack in position. See Fig. 16. Make sure the
jack is resting on flat, solid ground. Use a board or other support to provide a firm surface for the jack, if necessary.
4. Once the car is raised, block the wheel that is opposite
and farthest from the jack to prevent the car from unexpectedly rolling.
WARNING
Do not rely on the transmission or the emergency brake to
keep the car from rolling. While they will help, they are not a
substitute for positively blocking the opposite wheel.
Never work under a car that is supported only by a jack. Use
jack stands that are properly designed to support the car. See
Tools.
To work safely under a car
1. Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable so that no
one else can start the car. Let others know what you will
be doing.
2. Raise the car slowly as described above.
Fig. 16. saab-supplied jack correctly installed at front left jacking
point.
GETTING STARTED
Page 32
100-10
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
3. Use at least two jack stands to support the car. A jack
is a temporary lifting device and should not be used
alone to support the car while you are under it. Use
positively locking jack stands that are designed for the
purpose of supporting a car. For more information on
jack stands, see Tools below.
Non-reusable Fasteners
Many fasteners used on the cars covered by this manual
must be replaced with new ones when they are removed.
These include but are not limited to: bolts, nuts (self-locking,
nylock etc.), cotter pins, studs, brake fittings, roll pins, pins,
clips and washers. Genuine Saab parts should only be used
for this purpose.
WARNING
Do not use wood, concrete blocks, or bricks to support a car.
Wood may split. Blocks or bricks, while strong, are not designed for that kind of load, and may break or collapse.
4. Place jack stands on a firm, solid surface, just like the
jack. If necessary, use a flat board or similar solid object to provide a firm footing.
5. After placing the jack stands, lower the car slowly until
its weight is fully supported by the jack stands. Watch
to make sure that the jack stands do not tip or lean as
the car settles on them, and that they are placed solidly
and will not move.
6. Observe all jacking precautions again when raising the
car to remove the jack stands.
GENERAL ADVICE FOR THE BEGINNER
Some bolts, for example, are designed to stretch during assembly and are permanently altered rendering them unusable
again. Always replace fasteners where instructed to do so.
See an authorized Saab dealer for applications and ordering
information.
Tightening Fasteners
When tightening the bolts or nuts that attach a component,
it is always good practice to tighten the bolts gradually and
evenly to avoid misalignment or over stressing anyone portion of the component. For components sealed with gaskets,
this method helps to ensure that the gasket will seal properly
and completely.
Where there are several fasteners, tighten them in a sequence alternating between opposite sides of the component.
Fig. 17 shows such a sequence for tightening six bolts attaching a typical component. Repeat the sequence until all the
bolts are evenly tightened to the proper specification.
The tips in the paragraphs that follow are general advice to
help any do-it-yourself Saab owner perform repairs and maintenance tasks more easily and more professionally.
Planning Ahead
Most of the repairs and maintenance tasks described in this
manual can be successfully completed by anyone with basic
tools and abilities. Some cannot. To prevent getting in too
deep, know what the whole job requires before starting. Read
the procedure thoroughly, from beginning to end, in order to
know just what to expect and what parts will have to be replaced.
Cleanliness
Keeping things organized, neat, and clean is essential to
doing a good job, and a more satisfying way to work. When
working under the hood, fender covers will protect the 'finish
from scratches and other damage. Make sure the car is relatively clean so that dirt under the cover does not scratch.
Avoid getting tools or clothing near the battery. Battery electrolyte is a corrosive acid. Be careful with brake fluid, as it can
cause permanent damage to the car's paint. Finally, keep rubber parts such as hoses and belts free from oil or gasoline, as
they will cause the material to soften and fail prematurely.
GENERAL ADVICE FOR THE BEGINNER
Fig. 17. Sequence for alternately tightening multiple fasteners.
For some repairs a specific tightening sequence is necessary, or a particular order of assembly is required. Such special conditions are noted in the text, and the necessary
sequence is described or illustrated.
Bolt Torque
Tightening fasteners to a specified torque value using a
torque wrench is a good way to ensure that bolts are correctly
tightened. If a torque wrench is not used there is a danger of
going too far and damaging the fastener or the threads in the
mating part.
Page 33
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
Too little torque on a fastener can also cause problems. Vibration of assembled parts can subject fasteners to stress alternating in opposite directions that will eventually cause them
to loosen. To counter this loosening, fasteners are tightened
more and actually stretched a small amount.
100-11
Seals
In places where a shaft must pass through a housing, flexible lip seals are used to keep the lubricating oil or grease from
leaking out past the rotating shaft.
When special tightening torques are required, they are listed in the text where the fastener is being installed. If there is
no torque listed for a specific fastener, use Table a as a general guide. The sizes listed are for the bolt thread diameter,
not the size of the wrench. Table b lists the most common
wrench sizes for the bolts used on the cars covered by this
manual.
Seals are designed to be installed in the housing only once
and should never be reused. As long as they are not removed
from the housing and not leaking, they need not be replaced.
Seals, however, do age and deteriorate, and there is no easier
time to replace them than when the car is already apart for
some other repair.
Table a. General Tightening Torques
(unless noted otherwise in text)
When doing repairs that require removing a seal, be very
careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the metal surfaces. Even minor damage to sealing surfaces can cause seal
damage and leakage.
I ft~lb
Bolt diameter
Nm
M5
5
-+3.5 (44 in-Ib)
M6
10
7.5 (89 in-Ib)
M8
20
15
M10
40
30
The key to seal installation is to get the seal in straight without damaging it. Use an object that is the same diameter as
the seal housing to gently and evenly drive it into place. If a
proper size seal driver is not available, a socket of the right
size will do.
Table b. Bolt Diameter and Wrench Size
Bolt diameter
Most Common Wrench Size
M5
8mm
M6
M8
: : : :or 13mm
M10
17mm
M12
19mm
M14
22mm
l
==
Coat the entire seal with oil to help it go in more easily.
Seals are directional. Make sure that it is being installed with
the lip facing the correct way. Normally the lip faces the inside.
Notice the installation direction of the old seal before removing it.
Cleaning
-
Gaskets
The smoothest metal mating surfaces still have imperfections that can allow leakage. To prevent leakage at critical
joints, gaskets of soft, form-fitting material are used to fill in the
imperfections.
To be most effective, gaskets are designed to crush and become thinner as the mating parts are bolted together. Once a
gasket has been used and crushed, it is no longer capable of
making as good a seal as when new, and is much more likely
to leak. Forthis reason, gaskets should not be reused. Always
plan to use new gaskets for any reassembly. Some gasketssuch as headgaskets are directional. Make sure that these
are being installed correctly. This same logic applies to any
part used for sealing, including rubber O-rings and copper
sealing washers.
Any repair job will be less troublesome if the parts are clean.
For cleaning old parts, there are any number of solvents and
parts cleaners available commercially.
For cleaning parts prior to assembly, commercially available aerosol cans of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner are
handy to use, and the cleaner will evaporate completely, leaving no residue.
WARNING
Virtually all solvents used for cleaning parts are highly flammable, especially in aerosol form. Use with extreme care. Do
not smoke. Do not use these products near any source of
sparks or flame.
Let any solvent or cleaning product dry completely. Lowpressure, dry compressed air is helpful if available. Also, use
only Iint-Iree rags for cleaning and drying.
Electrical Testing
A great many electrical problems can be understood and
solved with only a little fundamental knowledge of how electrical Circuits function.
GENERAL ADVICE FOR THE BEGINNER
Page 34
100-12
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
Electric current only flows in a complete circuit. To operate,
every electrical device in the car requires a complete circuit including a voltage source and a path to ground. The positive
(+) side of the battery is the original voltage source, and
ground is any return path to the negative (-) side of the battery, whether through the wiring harness or the car body. Except for portions of the charging system, all electrical current
in the car is direct current (DC) and flows from positive (+) to
negative (-).
Switches are used·to turn components on or off by completing or interrupting the circuit. A switch is "open" when the circuit is interrupted, and "closed" when the circuit is completed.
Fig. 18 shows a complete circuit schematically. See 3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM for electrical troubleshooting.
Direction
of current flow
•
Insulate the finished connection. Electronics stores can
supply heat-shrinkable insulating tubing that can be placed
onto the wire before connecting, slid over the finished joint,
and shrunk to a tight fit with a heat gun or hair dryer. The next
best alternative is electrical tape. Make sure the wire is clean
and free of solder flux or other contamination. Wrap the joint
tightly and completely to seal out moisture.
BUYING PARTS
Many of the maintenance and repair tasks in this manual
call for the installation of new parts, or the use of new gaskets
and other materials when reinstalling parts. Most often, the
parts that will be needed should be on hand before beginning
the job. Read the introductory text and the complete procedure to determine which parts will be needed.
NOTE
For some bigger jobs, partial disassembly and inspection are
required to determine a complete parts list. Read the procedure carefully and, if necessary, make other arrangements to
get the necessary parts while your car is disassembled.
Information You Need To Know
Car body
(ground)
Fig. 19 shows the locations of the important information that
may be necessary to have on hand when buying parts or having work done on the car.
Fig. 18. Schematic representation of simple circuit for light bulb.
Switch is shown closed, making circuit complete.
Wire Repairs
Repairs to a wiring harness to reconnect broken wires or correct shorts to ground deserve special care to make the repair
permanent. The wire ends must be clean. If frayed or otherwise
damaged, cut off the end. If the wire is too short, splice in a new
piece of wire of the same size and make two connections.
Use connectors that are designed for the purpose.
Crimped-on or soldered-on connectors are best. Crimp connectors and special crimping pliers are widely available. If soldering, use a needlenose pliers to hold the wire near the
solder joint and create a "heat dam". This keeps the heat and
the solder from traveling up the wire. Always use a solder
made specifically for electrical work.
NOTE
Twisting wires together is really only a temporary repair, since
corrosion and vibration will eventually spoil the connection.
BUYING PARTS
Genuine Saab Parts
Genuine Saab replacement parts from an authorized Saab
dealer are designed and manufactured to the same high standards as the original parts. They will be the correct material,
manufactured to the same specifications, and guaranteed to
fit and work as intended by the engineers who designed the
car. Some genuine Saab parts have a limited warranty.
Many independent repair shops make a point of using genuine Saab parts, even though they may at times be more expensive. They know the value of doing the job right with the
right parts. Parts from other sources can be as good, particularly if manufactured by one of Saabs original equipment suppliers, but it is often difficult to know.
Saab is constantly updating and improving their cars, often
making improvements during a given model year. Saab may
recommend a newer, improved part as a replacement, and
your authorized dealer's parts department will know about it
and provide it. The Saab parts organization is best equipped
to deal with any Saab parts needs.
Page 35
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
o ~ ~AB AUTOMOBILE ABI 0
=--
~
::::':'~OOOOOGOOQQQ]
:~ •• L:QQo 0 kll
=:::J
:::~~: C=OOOO ~=:::J
:::-":=;.CEQDoo kg
o ;:::o:::.cr:::-OOOO . kg
~
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Chassis number plate,
1991 and later models
100-13
Colour code plate, body and
trim, 1986-1989 models
(j :: I ::.']1:: ,': ".ob~ II
Transmission number,
automatic transmission
~
",:0(1.'",
:""'0('7'
II
Colour code plate, body and
trim 1989-1990 models
1t"..:",C ... J':"') J It, •• ( I t H I I
.f}j'J"
1•
• ,n k
2·
'JIO'"
Chassis data plate,
1985-1990 models
Colour code plate, body and
trim, 1991 models"
Gearbox number
manual gearbox
1985 models
Engine number,
Two-tone colour code
body
~,
~
~
'--------~~~~~~~~~
Body c%ur code
Production label
"Colour code plate on passenger door pillar,
1992 and later models
Trim c%ur code
'.. , __
Chassis number stamped on
rear cross-member (under floor
hatch in luggage compartment)
from 1981 models
.
U"\~:-~ ~~
C"lI4I . _.... ':::;::-:==..:~:~'-~
CO ~':';~~:;":'~~-""':~'.Spare parts label
Anti-theft label from
the 1987 models
(cars for the U.S.A.)
~~~~~~~~~:
' " :~,-:'''',~:7:.==~~
Exhaust emission control data
Fig. 19. Locations of important information that may be required when
buying parts,
BUYING PARTS
Page 36
100-14
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
Non-returnable Parts
Some parts cannot be returned for credit, even if they are
the wrong parts for the car. The best example is electrical
parts, which are almost universally considered non-returnable
because they are so easily damaged internally.
Buy electrical parts carefully, and be as sure as possible
that a replacement is needed, especially for expensive parts
such as control units. It may be wise to let an authorized Saab
dealer or other qualified shop confirm your diagnosis before
replacing an expensive part that cannot be returned.
TOOLS
Most maintenance can be accomplished with a small selection of the right tools. Tools range in quality from inexpensive
junk, which may break at first use, to very expensive and wellmade tools which, to the professional, are worth every bit of
their high cost. The best tools for most do-it-yourself Saab
owners lie somewhere in between.
Cheap tools are not a bargain. They often do not hold up to
even casual use, and they present a greater risk of personal
injury. If they fit poorly, they can actually damage the fasteners they are intended to remove, making it that much harderto
use a good tool the next time around.
Many reputable tool manufacturers offer good quality, moderately priced tools with a lifetime guarantee. A broken tooi
can be exchanged for a new one, forthe life of the tool. These
are your best buy. They cost a little more, but they are good
quality tools that will do what is expected of them. Sears'
Craftsman® line is one such source of good quality, reasonably priced, and guaranteed tools. Other sources of special
tools are:
Schley Products Inc.
5350 E. Hunter Ave., Anaheim Hills, CA 92807
(714) 693-7666
Baum Tools Unltd. Inc.
P.O. Box 87, Longboat Key, FL 34228
(800) 848-6657
Assenmacher Specialty Tools
6440 Odell Place, Boulder, CO 80301
(303) 530-2424
Basic Tool Requirements
NOTE
Saabs are delivered with a tool kit mounted to the underside
of the trunk lid. The kit contains a basic selection of tools that
may fulfill some of the requirements listed in this section.
TOOLS
The basic hand tools described below can be used to accomplish most of the simple maintenance and repair tasks.
Screwdrivers. Three types, the common 'flat-blade type,
the Phillips type will handle almost all screws used on Saabs.
Two or three different sizes of each type will be best, since a
screwdriver of the wrong size will damage the screw head. On
late models Saabs, Torx® screw are quite common. A T25
size Torx driver will handle most of these screws.
A complete set of screwdrivers can often be purchased for
about the same money as the four or six individual ones that
are really necessary. See Fig. 20.
(
t]
«
t]
< ::::-<ID
< ~
a=t?lc::::~
(
~
(
~
lCS3
(c
::+@
::+
::+
t]
= @
89067
J
Fig. 20. Common flat-blade (top), Phillips (middle) and Torx® (bottom)
screwdrivers, Offset screwdriver (right) is used for screws with
limited access,
For a more complete tool box, include "stubby" screwdrivers or offset screwdrivers for use in tight spots where a normal length screwdriver will not easily fit and Torx®head
screwdrivers.
Wrenches. Wrenches come in different styles for different
uses. Fig. 21 shows several. The basic open-end wrench is
the most widely used, but grips on only two sides. It can
spread apart and slip off more easily. The box-end wrench
has better grip, on all six sides of a nut or bolt, and is much less
prone to slip.
A 12-point box-end can loosen a nut or bolt where there is
less room for movement, while a 6-point box-end provides
better grip. For hex fasteners on fluid lines, like brake lines
and fuel lines, a 'flare-nut wrench offers the advantages of a
box-end wrench with a slot that allows it to fit over the line.
The combination wrench, shown in Fig. 22, is the most universal. It has one open-end and one 12-point box-end. For
Saabs. 1Omm and 13mm wrenches are the most common sizes needed. On most models, a 19mm wrench is needed to
loosen and tighten the engine oil drain plug. A complete set
should also include 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 11 mm, 12mm,
14mm, and 15mm.
Page 37
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
100-15
I
I
I
I
89070
I
I
Fig. 23. SocKets, extensions, and a ratchet handle,
89068~
------------------
Fig. 21. Types of wrench heads. From left, open-end, 12-point boxend, 6-polnt box-end, flare nut.
As a start, 6-point sockets with a 3/8 in. square drive, two or
three 3/8 in. extensions of different lengths, and a 3/8 in. drive
ratchet handle will be suitable for most jobs.
=
For a more complete tool box, add deep sockets and a
greater variety of handles and extensions. A universal joint
extension can allow access from an angle where a straight extension will not quite fit.
I
Spark Plug Socket. A special socket for spark plugs is the
correct size, is deep enough to accommodate a spark plug's
length, and includes a rubber insert to both protect the spark
plug from damage and grip it for easier removal. The spark
plugs used in Saab engines require a 5/8 in. socket. See Fig.
24.
I
-
!
89069
Fig. 22. Combination wrenches with one open-end and one 12-point
box-end.
Sockets. Sockets perform the same job as box-end
wrenches, but offer greater flexibility. They are normally used
with a ratchet handle for speed and convenience, and can be
combined with extensions to reach fasteners more easily.
Standard sockets come in 6-point and 12-point styles. For
use with a ratchet the 6-point offers a better grip on tight nuts
and bolts. As with wrenches, 6mm to 15mm, 17mm, and
19mm are the most needed sizes. See Fig. 23.
Sockets come with different size connections to drive handles or extensions, called the drive size. The most common
drive sizes are 1/4 in., 3/8 in., and 1/2 in.
89071
Fig. 24. Spark plug socket (5/8 in.).
Pliers. A few of the many types of pliers are shown in Fig.
25. Most are used for holding irregular objects, bending, or
crimping. Some have special applications.
A needlenose plier is used for gripping small and poorly accessible objects, and is useful for wiring and other electrical
work. A locking plier such as the well-known Vise-Grip® is
useful because of its tight grip.
TOOLS
Page 38
100-16
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
Use only jack stands that are designed for the purpose.
Blocks of wood, concrete, bricks, etc. are not safe or suitable
substitutes.
Jack stands are available in several styles. A typical jack
stand is shown in Fig. 27. The best ones are made of heavy
material for strength, have a wide base for stability, and are
equipped to positively lock in their raised positions. Get the
best ones available.
B9072
Fig. 25. Pliers, From left, snap-ring, needlenose, Channel-Iock®,
common, locking,
Snap-ring and circlip pliers with special tipped jaws are
used to remove and install snap-rings or circlips. A Channellock® or water pump plier has adjustable jaws that can be
quickly changed to match the size of the object being held to
give greater leverage.
Adjustable wrench can be a useful addition to a small tool
kit. See Fig. 26. It can substitute in a pinch, if two wrenches of
the same size are needed to remove a nut and bolt. Use extra
care with adjustable wrenches, as they especially tend to
loosen, slip, and damage fasteners.
B9073
B9074
Fig. 27. Jack stand for safely supporting car to work underneath.
Oil Change Equipment
Changing engine oil requires a box-end wrench or socket to
loosen and tighten the drain plug 19mm (13mm on 1991 and
later cars), a drain pan (at least 7 qt. capacity), and an oil filter
wrench. These items are shown in Fig. 28. A wide, low drain
pan will fit more easily under the car. Use a funnel to pour the
new oil into the engine.
An oil filter wrench is needed for some models to remove
the oil filter. Be sure to get a filter wrench that will grip the Saab
oil filter tightly.
Fig. 26. Adjustable wrench,
Compared to a wrench of the correct size, an adjustable
wrench is always second best. They should only be used
when the correct size wrench is not available. Choose one of
average size range, about 6 to 8 inches in length.
Jack Stands
Strong jack stands are extremely important for any work
that is done under the car. Jacks are designed only for short
term use and are not solid enough to support the car for a long
period. A jack should never be used alone to support the car
while working underneath.
B9075
Fig. 28. Oil change equipment includes drain plug wrench (19mm or
13mm), 7 qt. drain pan, oil filter wrench, and funnel.
TOOLS
Page 39
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
100-17
Torque Wrench
A torque wrench is used to precisely tighten threaded fasteners to a predetermined value. Nearly all of the repair procedures in this manual include Saab-specified torque values in
Newton-meters (Nm) and the equivalent values in footpounds (ft-Ib).
Several types of torque wrenches are widely available.
They all do the same job, but offer different convenience features at different prices. Two typical torque wrenches are
shown in Fig. 29. The most convenient ones have a built-in
ratchet, and can be preset to indicate when a specific torque
value has been reached. Follow the wrench manufacturer's
directions for use to achieve the greatest accuracy.
I
B9077
I
L
_
Fig. 30. Feeler gauge set, used for precise measurement of clearances between parts.
meters have automotive functions such as dwell and pulse
width that are useful fortroubleshooting ignition and fuel injection problems.
B9076
Fig. 29. Torque wrenches, Inexpensive beam-type (top) is adequate
B9079
but must be read visually, Ratchet-type (bottom) can be preset to indicate when torque value has been reached,
Fig. 31. Multimeter with test probes.
A torque wrench with a range up to about 250 Nm (185 ft-Ib)
has adequate capacity for most of the repairs covered in this
manual. For recommended torque values of 10 Nm or below,
the English system equivalent is given in inch-pounds (in-Ib).
These small values may be most easily reached using a
torque wrench calibrated in inch-pounds. To convert footpounds to inch-pounds, multiply by 12. To convert inchpounds to foot-pounds, divide by 12.
CAUTION
Ignition, fuel injection, emission controls and other electronic
systems may be damaged by the high current draw of a test
light with a nonnal incandescent bulb. As a general rule, use
a high impedance digital multimeter or an LED test light for all
electrical testing.
Feeler Gauges
Saab Special Tools
Feeler gauges are thin metal strips of precise thickness,
used to measure small clearances. They are normally available as a set, covering a range of sizes. For Saabs, metric
feeler gauges (in millimeters) are the best choice. Fig. 30
shows a set of feeler gauges.
Some of the more challenging repairs covered in this manual call for the use of Saab special tools. This, however, does
not automatically mean that the job is too complicated or out of
reach of the novice.
Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) or Multimeter
Many of the Saab special tools mentioned in this manual
are inexpensive and are simply the best thing to use to do the
job correctly. In these cases, the tool is identified with a Saab
part number. See your authorized Saab dealer parts department for information on how to order special tools.
Many of the electrical tests in this manual call for the measurement of resistance (ohms) or voltage values. For safe and
accurate tests of ignition, fuel injection, and emission control
systems, the multimeter, shown in Fig. 31, should be digital,
with high (at least 10,000 ohms) input impedance. Some
There are some jobs for which expensive special tools are
essential, and not a cost-effective purchase for one-time re-
TOOLS
Page 40
100-18
Fundamentals for the Do-it-yourself Owner
pair by the do-it-yourself owner. This manual includes such
repairs for the benefit of those with the necessary experience
and access to tools. For the do-it-yourselfer, the need for special tools is noted in the text, and whether or not Saab dealer
service is recommended.
EMERGENCIES
Changing a Tire
If a tire goes Hat while driving, pull well off the road. Changing a tire on a busy street or highway is very dangerous. If necessary, drive a short distance on the flat tire to get to a safe
place. It is much better to ruin a tire or rim than to risk being hit.
Stop the car on as flat a surface as possible, in a place
where you can be easily seen by other drivers. Avoid stopping
just over the crest of a hill. Turn on the emergency flashers,
and set out flares or emergency markers well behind the car.
Passengers should get out of the car and stand well away
from the road. Take the jack, tools, and spare wheel from the
trunk. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite to the one being
changed.
Loosen the wheel bolts while the car is on the ground, but
leave them a little snug. Place the jack under in the lifting point
nearest the wheel being changed (lifting points are shown
above in Fig. 15). Use a board to provide a firm footing for the
jack if the ground is soft. Raise the car only far enough so that
the wheel is off the ground, and then remove the wheel bolts and
the wheel. Remove the lug bolts or nuts and remove the tire.
Install the spare wheel. Install the wheel bolts or nuts and
tighten them by hand, then lower the car. With all wheels on
the ground, fully tighten the bolts in a cross-wise pattern.
Torque the wheel bolts when installing the wheei.
Tightening torques
• wheel lug bolts
• wheel lug nuts
105 to 125 Nm (77 to 92 ft-Ib)
90 to 110 Nm (66 to 81 ft-Ib)
If torquing the wheel fasteners is not possible, tighten them
as much as possible, then loosen and retorque the bolts to the
proper specification at the earliest opportunity. Check the inflation pressure of the spare tire.
Car Will Not Start
If the engine turns over slowly or not at all, especially on
cold mornings, the battery may not be sufficiently charged.
Jump-starting the battery from another car may help. Jumpstarting is described below.
NOTE
Be sure to read the cautions under Jump Starting prior to
jump starting a low battery. Failure to follow the cautions may
result in damage to the electronic components in the car.
Push starting (or tow starting) a car with an insufficiently
charged battery is another option. To push start the car, turn
on the ignition, put the car in second or third gear and push in
the clutch pedal. Push or tow the car. When the car is moving
at a fair speed (10 to 15 mph), release the clutch pedal. After
the engine has started, push the clutch pedal back in and allow the engine to idle. Revthe engine for a few minutes to help
restore the charge to the battery.
WARNING
Use extreme caution when push starting a car. Be aware of
other traffic. Use the emergency flashers.
NOTE
On cars with automatic transmissions, the design of the transmission makes it impossible to start the engine by pushing the
car.
If the engine is turning over at normal speed with the starter
motor, the battery and starter are fine. Check to make sure
that there is fuel in the tank. Don't rely on the fuel gauge, it may
be faulty. Instead, remove the gas filler cap and rockthe car. If
there is gas in the tank, you should hear a sloshing sound at
the filler neck. If so, turn the ignition on and listen for the sound
of the fuel pump. It should run for a few seconds, then stop. If
it doesn't, fuel may not be reaching the engine.
The engine also may have difficulty starting because it has
too much fuel, because the fuel system is vapor-locked on a
hot day, or because the ignition system is wet on a very damp
day. There will probably be a strong smell of gas if the engine
has too much fuel (referred to as ''flooded'').
Try holding the accelerator pedal fully to the floor while
starting. This electrically turns off the fuel injectors. If the engine stills does not start, wait for a few minutes and then try
starting the engine again. If you suspect vapor-lock, raise the
hood, let the engine cool, and then try to start the engine.
On damp days, check the distributor cap and spark plug
wires for condensation. If they are wet, remove and replace
the wires one at a time and dry them off with a clean dry cloth,
then remove the distributor cap and wipe it dry inside and out.
Jump-Starting
Cars with partially discharged or completely dead batteries
can be jump-started using the good battery from another car.
EMERGENCIES