Page 651
Fan motor and fan, model 1974
Removal
1. Remove the windshield wiper motor (see group 3).
2. Disconnect the fan motor cables.
3. Undo the three fan motor retaining screws and pull
out slightly the motor with the impeller. Separate
the motor from the impeller at the rubber coupling,
and first remove the motor and then the impeller.
REMOVING THE FAN MOTOR
4. Remove the plate with the fan bearing on the opposite
side of the fan casing.
Installation
1. Push the impeller in slightly into the fan casing and
connect the impeller and the motor to the rubber
coupling.
2. Guide the fan into the casing and secure the motor
to the casing.
3. Fit the plate with the fan bearing.
4. Connect the fan motor and check that the fan is rotat-
ing freely.
5. Fit the windshield wiper motor.
Dec. 1975
Heat exchanger and water valve, model 1974
The components can be removed and installed with the
fan casing in position in the car.
Removal and installation
1. Drain about 4 litres (4 quarts) of coolant. Remove the
generator and coolant fan relay.
2. Remove the front part of the fan casing. Then un-
screw the heat exchanger retaining plate.
satss
THE HEAT EXCHANGER RETAINING PLASE IS REMOVED
3. Remove the cap from the water valve, remove the
control wire and remove the water valve retaining
screws.
4. Loosen the hose clips on the heat exchanger and the
water valve and disconnect the hoses.
5. Disconnect the thermostat coil from the heat exchanger
and remove the water valve with coil.
THE THERMOSTAT IS REMOVED
6. Withdraw the heat exchanger from the thermostat
casing.
Reassemble in reverse order.
SAAB 854-7
Page 652
Removal and installation of fan casing, left-hand drive
cars, model 1974
On right-hand drive cars, the power plant must first
be lifted out.
Removal
1. Drain the coolant and disconnect one of the battery
cable terminals.
2. Remove the safety padding with the glove compart-
ment and the safety padding over the instrument
insert.
3. Remove the instrument insert.
FAN CASING SCREWS
4. Remove the four screws which hold the fan casing
to the dash panel plate.
5. Remove the windshield wiper motor and the right
wiper spindle. (See group 3.)
6. Remove the fan motor, impeller and fan bearing.
7. Remove the cable harness from the brackets on and
next to the fan housing.
8. Remove the alternator.
9. Remove the front part of the fan casing.
10. Remove the water valve cap and the control wire.
11. Disconnect the water hoses from the water valve
and the heat exchanger.
12. Remove the air screen.
13. Undo the screws holding the valve frame above the
fan casing.
14. Remove the fan casing to the right.
Installation
1. Fit the flap valve frame with the left-hand screw
loosely tightened.
2. Put the fan casing in position, holding the right
side of the valve frame out of the way.
3. Fit the valve frame right-hand screw and then
tighten the left-hand screw.
4. Screw the fan casing to the dash panel plate. En-
sure the gasket is in the right position.
5. Fit the impeller, fan bearing and fan motor.
6. Fit the right wiper spindle and wiper motor. (See
group 3.)
7. Connect the water hoses, water valve wire and cap
and the front part of the fan casing.
8. Fasten the cable harness in the brackets designed
for this purpose.
9. Fit the alternator and connect the electrical cables
to the wiper motor and fan motor.
10. Fit the instrument insert and its safety padding as
well as the glove compartment with its safety padding.
11. Close the drain cock and fill with coolant. Connect
854-8 SAAB
the battery cable.
Dec. 1975
Page 653
BUMPERS UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1971
Each bumper is fitted with two overriders and consists of
right and left sections joined together by screw fastenings.
The bumpers are attached to the body by three brackets.
S 2484
FRONT BUMPER UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1971, EXPLODED VIEW
oO
REAR BUMPER UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1971, EXPLODED VIEW
Jan. 1972 SARES 860-1
Page 654
BUMPERS AS FROM THE 1972 MODEL
General
The shells of the bumpers consist of U-shaped steel bars
to which the bumper brackets are welded. There are
shock-absorbant cellular blocks of polythylene in the
bars (9 blocks in the front and 10 blocks in the rear bump-
er). Outside the blocks there are polyethylene braces and
the bumpers are coated with a layer of rubber. This layer
is provided with anchorage bars on the inside and with a
stainless steel bracing strip on the outside. Provision has
been made on the front bumper for the attachment of
license plates and additional lights.
The front bumper is mounted with four brackets and
the rear bumper with three.
On model 1974, new light metal bumper bars, cellular
blocks of a new design and new bumper brackets have
been installed.
FRONT BUMPER AS FROM MODEL 1972, EXPLODED VIEW
REAR BUMPER AS FROM MODE
L 1972, EXPLODED VIEW
860-2 Sans Dec. 1975
—
Page 655
4
| Removal and installation 6. Mount the filling plates and their spacing sleeves to-
} gether with the anchorage bars. Remount the bumper.
The front bumper is removed by undoing the eight screws
which hold the bumper brackets to the reinforcement
bars and the support plates in the engine compartment.
The rear bumper is removed by undoing the screws which
hold the bumper brackets to the bodywork.
Install in the reverse order.
|
|
|
|
Changing the cellular blocks
1, Remove the bumper.
2. Remove the bracing strip. Note the spacing sleeves
under the filling plates at each end of the bracing strip.
| 3. Remove the anchorage bars on the side of the bumper
j y where the cellular block is to be changed. (If the cen-
ter block on the front bumper has to be changed, both
the longer anchorage bars must be removed.)
4. Pull off the rubber layer, after which the cellular
blocks are accessible and can be removed.
CHANGING THE CELLULAR BLOCKS
5. Refit the rubber layer and bracing strip.
| FITTING THE BRACING STRIP
,
8 Dec. 1975 Saas, 860-3
Page 656
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890-1
Page 657
Technical data, factory paints
Primer
Mode of application
Hardening
Manufacturer
Skin thickness after stoving
Intermediate coat
Spraying viscosity
Mode of application
Curing
Supplier
Skin thickness
Top coat
Spraying viscosity
Mode of application
Curing
Supplier
Skin thickness after stoving
Primer + top coat
Touch up enamel (factory paint with added hardener and
enamel)
Spraying viscosity
Mode of application
Curing
Supplier
Touch-up and refinish instructions
General
For all touch-up or refinish jobs, use synthetic stoving or
airdrying enamel of the same quality type as that for the
original paintwork.
For perfect results, it is essential that the premises in
which the work is to be done, i.e. the paintshop, be kept
absolutely free of dust. It should also be free of drafts and
must naturally not be used as a means of access to other
departments. The floor should be kept thoroughly damp
while spraying. A paint job ruined by dust cannot be re-
stored by polishing — flatting and respraying will be nec-
essary.
Dec. 1975
Electro-im mersion
20 min, at +347°F (175°C)
AB Wilhelm Beckers
Dr Kurt Herberts
25 um
35—45 sec. (SIS beaker at 58°F or 20°C)
Hot spraying. Paint temperature approx.
122°F (50°C)
20 min. at +302°F (150°C)
AB Wilhelm Becker
25 um
35—40 sec. (SIS beaker at 68°F or 20°C)
Hot spraying at approx. 122°F (50°C)
20 min. at 302°F (150°C)
AB Wilhelm Beckers
Dr Kurt Herberts
70—100 sm (0.07—0.1 mm)
18—22 sec. (SIS beaker at 68°F or 20°C)
Cold spraying
60 min. at 320—338°F (160—170°C)
AB Wilhelm Beckers
Dr Kurt Herberts
si3E2:
333:
Ssessess
St osesssss
SSS
=
890-2
Page 658
Body finishing
Before undertaking any partial refinishing, always spray
a test area to check that the shade used is indentical with
the color of the parts that are not to be refinished. Any
deviations must be corrected by toning the paint. The
painting job involves the following operations:
Removal of rust and old paint
Rubbing down
Cleaning with a solvent
Priming of bare metal surfaces, for instance with wash
primer
Filling — if necessary
Flatting
Application of intermediate coat, for instance Surfacer
or Non Sanding, if necessary
Flatting, if necessary
Finishing
Air-drying, stoving with infra-red radiant heat or in a
drying oven, depending on the type of enamel used.
Cleaning
If the old paintwork shows defects such as cracking, pit-
ting due to the impact of flying stones, etc., apply a paint
remover or flatten down to the bare metal. After removal
of the old paintwork by one or the other of these meth-
ods, degrease the metal with spirit, thinner or some other
suitable solvent. In principle, the same procedure should
be used even if the old paintwork has merely been rubbed
down instead of being removed. Realign any distorted pan-
els and grind, for instance with a disc grinder, if necessary,
before flattening with wet abrasive paper P400. Finally,
reclean the parts with spirit or cellulose thinner. Thorough-
ness in this respect is vital to good adhesion.
Priming
Coat all Sared metal surfaces with primer. The drying
time and temperature for oven-drying or air-drying should
be as prescribed by the paint suppliers. In infra-red radia-
tion lamp may also be used for drying, but care must be
taken to keep it at a distance of not less than 16 in. (40
cm) from the metal. After drying, fill as necessary, apply-
ing the putty in thin layers and allowing the stipulated
drying time for each layer before the next application.
a —
Rubbing down
Rub down the primed and filled surface with wet abra-
sive paper P400 and then with grade P600. After remov-
ing all water, rewash the surfaces with spirit or cellulose
and wipe with a piece of gauze drenched in slow-drying
varnish (tack-ragging).
Equipment and procedure for refinishing
A. Stoving touch-up enamel
Oven: A cenvection oven with an air temperature of 194—
212°F (90—100°C) is needed. A radiation oven can be
used, and in this case the metal temperature should be
about 176°F (80°C). It is important for the air tempera-
ture to be even throughout the oven and for the tempera-
ture to be continuously checked. For this purpose, it is
appropriate to use, for example, a calibrated max. and
min. thermometer or a thermo-element with a compen-
sator. Only this latter measuring method can be used to
check the plate temperature.
Enamel: Hardener must be added to the touch-up paint
used in the amount stipulated by the paint supplier. The
enamel can be sprayed either hot or cold, and the viscos-
ity should be adjusted accordingly with the thinner re-
commended by the paint supplier to the following:
Hot spraying — viscosity approx. 35 sec.
Cold spraying — viscosity approx. 21 sec.
Measure the viscosity with a beaker according to the meth-
od described in the Swedish standard SIS 160011 at a
temperature of approx. +68°F (20°C).
MEASURING VISCOSITY WITH AN SIS BEAKER
Jan, 1971
Page 659
a a a ae
USE OF RADIATION LAMP TO DRY REFINISHED PART
Procedure: First of all, celan the body and chassis of the
car thoroughly, thus ensuring that dust will not spread in
the spraying booth or drying oven. Before drying in the
oven in connection with touch-up, certain parts of the car
must be masked or removed to prevent them from beeing
damaged by the heat. Which parts should be removed is
partly depending on the oven temperature and partly the
time under which the car is exposed to heat. The measures
mentioned below consider a temperature of 194—212°F
(90—100°C) during one hour.
The following details should be removed to prevent them
from being damaged by the heat:
a) The control unit for the injection engine.
b) The plastic grilles of the front plate (model 1971)
c) The plastic strips of the fenders and the glasses of the
rear clamps.
d) Saab 99 Combi Coupé: The pneumatic springs for the
rear door.
Cover the insides of all glass windows with sheets of board
or the like to prevent the temperature from becoming too
high.
If the trunk compartment lid, engine hood or a door
must be left open during the drying, the opening must
be masked to prevent the heat in the car to rise above
+167°F (75°C).
The fuel tank should contain only a small amount of fuel.
The filler cap should be removed.
When the car is being pretreated and painted it should be
at normal room temperature. When the car is placed in
the oven, the latter should have reached the prescribed
temperature of 194—212°F (90—100°C). Leave the car
there for one hour.
CAUTION
The pneumatic springs on the rear door on Saab 99
Combi Coupé model cars must be removed before
the car is placed in the oven. The high temperature
causes a pressure increase in the springs and this can
result in damage or injury.
B. Air-drying touch-up enamel (68—176°F or 20—80°C)
When air-drying enamel is used, no special arrangements
are necessary other than a well heated, dustless booth.
The drying time can, however, be speeded up conside-
rably by stoving the enamel with an infrared radiation
lamp or in an oven with an air temperature of not more
than +176°F (80°C).
The enamel can be sprayed either hot or cold, and the
viscosity should be adjusted accordingly with the thinner
recommended by the paint supplier to the following:
Hot spraying — viscosity approx. 35 sec.
Cold spraying — viscosity approx. 21 sec.
Measure the viscosity with a beaker according to the meth-
od described in the Swedish standard SIS 160011 ata
temperature of approx. +68°F (20°C).
The metal must have adopted normal room temperature
prior to pretreatment and painting.
NOTE
Under the chassis sign is a sign indicating by means
of a code the original body color. Always quote this
code when placing orders for touch-up enamel. This
is particularly important as enamel conforming to
the same color specification may be supplied by se-
verel different manufacturers.
General maintenance work
Proper care and maintenance of the care is necessary to
retain the gloss and durability of the enamel finish and
the protective properties of the underbody sealing. Re-
commendations in these respects are given in group 1.
Dec. 1975 SAAB 890-4
Page 660
METALLIC PAINTS
General remarks on metal-effect paints
Metal-effect paints, or metallic paints as they are more
commonly called, consist of ordinary enamel paints
doped with aluminum powder, which imparts a metallic
lustre of the finish. Metal-effect paints can only be
applied by spraying, and produce different color tones
according to the spraying technique employed. Saturated
wet spraying (with large quantities of paint) results in
dark shades, while fog and dry spraying (with small quan-
tities) give lighter shades. To make sure that spot repairs
to paintwork match the original paint job, it is essential
that the repair is made with recommended and tested
qualities of paint.
Metallic paints can be divided into one-coat and two-coat
types. Singlecoat metallic paint, as already mentioned, con-
sists of enamel paint doped with aluminum powder. A
two-coat application comprises an undercoat of enamel
paint containing aluminum particles and a topcoat of
transparent varnish giving a high-gloss finish.
Repairs to metallic paintwork call for a technique that
differs in some respects from the conventional method
of applying solid paints. The purpose of this Service In-
formation is to give advice and instructions on correct
procedure.
Now that we have acquired some experience of metallic
painting in our production and obtained very good re-
sults with one-coat paints, we have discontinued produc-
tion of two-coat painted cars. We have also found that
repairs to two-coat paint jobs can be made with exellent
results using the same technique as employed for cars
with original one-coat paintwork.
Touch-up paints that match the original paint are essential
to good repair results. Even so, slight differences in colora-
tion are sometimes found between the original paint job
and the repair. As a rule these differences can be ascribed
to one of the following causes :
Vehicle paintwork changes color with age under the in-
fluence of external factors such as solar ultraviolet radia-
tion, extreme fluctuations in temperature, the chemical
effects of atmospheric pollution and road salt in winter-
time, and many others.
Car owners sometimes use unsuitable and excessively
harsh cleaning and polishing compounds which discolor
and bleach the paintwork.
A special problem arises in the case of metallic paints, as
the finish and shade vary according to the type of paint
and the application technique. The method of spraying
influences the way in which the fine aluminum particles
distribute themselves in the paint layer; this effect can
be controlled to some extent by the choice of spraying
technique. Repainting should therefore be extended out
to the natural boundaries of the area in need of repair,
and the car owner should be told in advance that there
may be some difference in the shade of the repainted
part.
To avoid trouble with complaints, we would advise all
bodywork painters to follow the instructions given below:
a) Stir the paint thoroughly.
890-5
b) Check that all cans of paint used on the same car are
marked with the same batch number.
c) Always test-spray a specimen piece. Comparison with
the color of the paint in liquid form is not reliable, as
the color changes during drying and may also be in-
fluenced by the method of application.
d) Always match up the colors in daylight (but not in
direct sunlight) before you start painting.
General recommendations
1. The temperature in the paint shop should not be less
than 64°F (18°C). Vehicles that have stood out of
doors must have come to room temperature before
painting starts. The same applies to the paint itself.
2. Take care over the preparations. The surface must be
free from rust and grease and must be dry. Degreasing
with a damp rag is not good enough; wash the surface
using plenty of grease dissolver. Take special care with
areas close to trim and panel edges.
3. Do not touch degreased and sanded surfaces with bare
hands. Perspiration contains salt compounds that will
cause the finished coat of paint to swell. Old, blistered
paintwork must be completely removed.
4. The water used for grinding must not exceed 5 German
degrees in hardness. It may be necessary to soften the
water in a desalination unit. In any event, great care
must be taken and the surface must be thoroughly
cleaned. Do not let any drops of grinding water dry on
the surface — wipe them off with a chamois leather.
Remove all traces of grinding dust. Before proceeding
further, dry off all moisture thoroughly in a drying
oven or with a heat lamp.
5. Compressed air must be dry and clean. Spraying pres-
sure should be 45—70 psig (3—5 atmospheres gauge
pressure) unless otherwise specified.
6. Spray boxes and drying ovens must be provided with
fresh-air intake, dust filter and air extractor.
7. The top coat must not be applied until all traces of
solvent have evaporated from the surface, as pores
may otherwise form in the paintwork.
Products and procedures for paintwork spot repairs
Priming materials
Du Pont Hi-Speed Primer-surfacer 30 S (233—1940) air
drying (gray)
Du Pont Thinner 3608 S (145010)
Du Pont Universal Putty 2284 R (228—BS 146)
Top coat materials
Du Pont LuciteR Spot Repair 945-line metallic
Coral Metallic YR1& YR4 = 1/4 gal. Part No. 845114
Coral Metallic YR1& YR4 1/8 lit. Part No. 847025
Sepia Metallic YR2 1/4 gal. Part No. 843680
Sepia Metallic YR2 1/8 lit. Part No. 847026
Du Pont Thinner 3632 1 lit. Part No. 845115
Du Pont Thinner 3602 6 lit. Part No. 847027
Dec. 1975