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Workshop manual

Saab 99 Service Manual

pages 171–180 of 672 (ocr, may contain errors)

Page 171

OIL FILTER
1.7 and 1.85 | engines
Changing filter insert

1. Undo the screw on the filter housing using key 839191
and remove the filter housing from the engine block.

2. Withdraw the filter insert.

3. Clean the component parts, checking at the same
time that none of them is damaged.

4. Remove the rubber seal from the engine block and
fit a new one.

5. Place a new filter insert in the housing and assemble
the filter in position on the engine block.

6. Tighten the screw to a torque of 20—25 Nm (14—18
ft.lb., 2—2.5 kpm).

pre son brew

OIL FILTER AND FILTER HOUSING

Dec. 1975

OIL FILTER
2.0 | engine
Replacement of filter cartridge

1. Free the filter cartridge with special wrench 786201.

REMOVAL OF OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE
Tool 786201

2. Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter cartridge
and screw in the cartridge until the seal is in place up
against the intermediate piece. Then tighten an addi-
tional half turn.

NOTE
If the filter cartridge is tightened too hard there is

a risk that oil will leak out, as the rubber seal may
be twisted in its rack.

SAAB 222-1

Page 172

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Page 173

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CARBURETOR

1.7 and 1.85 | engines
Removing

1. Remove the air cleaner and preheater hose.

2. Dosconnect the fuel hose, the throttle and choke con-
trols and the vacuum hose to the distributor.

3. Back off the four retaining nuts and lift off the carbu-
retor.

— &—4
Ya 5
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2
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CARBURETOR

Vacuum chamber cover
Spring

Metal washer

Screw

Plastic washer

Vacuum piston
Locking screw

Fuel needle

Diaphragm

'§ 1692

DNS: CUS NS

Disassembly

1, Take off the vacuum chamber cover (1, see illustration)
and take out the spring (2).

. Remove the piston (6) with the diaphragm (9).

3. Undo the locking screw (7) and take out the fuel nee-
dle (8).

4. Remove the screws (4), the plastic and metal washers
(5, 3) and the diaphragm (9).

5. Remove the float chamber (20).

6. Carefully disengage the float spindle from the bridge
and remove the float (21).

nD

Nov. 1972

‘S72 -

CARBURETOR

10. Washer 16. Jet retainer
11. Bushing 17. O-ring

12. O-ring 18. O-ring

13. Guide bushing 19. Adjusting screw
14. Spring 20. Float chamber
15. Jet 21. Float

7. Unscrew and remove the jet retainer (16) with adjust-
ing screw (19), jet (15), spring (14), bushings (11 and
13), washer (10). Save O-ring (12).

Remove the float valve and washer.

9. Remove the choke mechanism.

~

Wash carburetor parts with Paraffin oil or gasoline.

NOTE
Use only paraffin oil for washing the diaphragm.
Avoid the use of volatile cleaning fluids such as tri-
chloroethylene.

Cleaning

Use compressed air to clean the holes in the valve plate of
the choke mechanism. Check that the diaphragm is unda-
maged. If the diaphragm is distended or burst it must be ex-
changed for a new one. Check the fuel needle for wear; if

it is bent or worn, fit a new one. Check that all contact

and sealing surfaces are undamaged. Check that the choke
plate of the choke mechanism and the matching surface

of the carburetor housing are free from scratches.

231-1

Page 174

231-2 |

Assembling

1. Mount the diaphragm on the vacuum piston so that

+ the locating lip (see illustration) engages the correspon-

FITTING THE DIAPHRAGM

ding recess in the piston and the inner edge fits easily
into the matching groove in the piston.

NOTE
If the diaphragm is so distended that it will not fit
into the piston, exchange it for a new one.

Place the plastic washer (5, see illustration) and the
metal washer (3) carefully in position, lining up the
screw holes with those in the piston and diaphragm
without twisting the washer and matching the groove
in the washer to the locating edge of the diaphragm.
Secure the washers with the screws (4).

Install the self-centering fuel needle so that its plastic
washer lies flush with the lower surface of the vacuum
piston.

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FITTING THE FUEL NEEDLE

The flat milled jacket surface of the spring housing
must face the locking screw, i.e. the needle should be
pushed by spring action towards the air cleaner side
when the piston is in place in the carburetor. No cen-
tering adjustment of the carburetor jet is necessary.

2. Install the piston complete with diaphragm and spring
in the carburetor housing. Make sure that the outer lip
of the diaphragm engages the matching recess in the
housing (see illustration). Place the vacuum chamber
cover carefully in position according to the markings.
The groove and locating rim should be a good fit; if
not exchange the diaphragm. Tighten the screws.

3. Insert the adjusting screw (19) with a new O-ring (18)
in the jet retainer (16). Fit a new O-ring (17) on the
jet retainer. Figures refer to illustration on previous

page.

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‘S 1692
CARBURETOR
1. Vacuum chamber cover 6. Vacuum piston
2. Spring 7. Locking screw
3. Metal washer 8. Fuel needle
4. Screw 9. Diaphragm
5. Plastic washer

4, Place the spring (14), guide bushing (13), bushing (11),
O-ring (12) and aluminium washer (10) on the jet (15)
and install the complete assembly together with the
jet retainer (16) and adjusting screw (19) in the car-
buretor housing. (Figures refer to illustration on pre-
vious page.) Screw in and tighten the jet retainer.
Screw in the adjusting screw until the top of the jet
touches the piston when the latter is in its lowest posi-
tion, then back off the adjusting screw 2 3/4 turns.
This is the basic setting.

5. Mount the float (21) with spindle. The flat side of the
float faces away from the carburetor housing.

Float level

6. Check the float level as follows:
a. To check the float level the carburetor must be re-
moved from the engine, and inverted with the float
chamber off.

b. For the level to be correct the highest point of the
float should be 0.63—0.71" (16—18 mm) above
the edge of the carburetor housing (see illustra-

SAAB Jan. 1971

Page 175

v

Adjusting the carburetor with carbon monoxide indicator

In order to reduce the emission of carbon monoxide and
hydrocarbon gases through the exhaust system while
idling, it is always necessary to check the carburetor
setting with a carbon monoxide indicator in connection
with every service, adjustment or engine overhaul. The
highest permitted carbon monoxide content while idling
is 4.5 per cent by volume.

MEASURING FLOAT LEVEL

tion) when the float valve is closed. If the level is
not correct, adjust by bending the tongue at the

float valve. CO TEST
NOTE
Do not bend the arm between the float and the
spindle. Test procedure

7. Fit a new gasket and slide the. float chamber on until
it cushions against the O-ring. First insert all screws
and give them a few turns, then push down the float 3
chamber until it butts firmly and tighten the screws.

8. Mount the choke mechanism. (If the mechanism has
been removed, fit the choke plate, choke shaft and
cam plate as illustrated.) The calibrated holes face the

=

. Check and if necessary adjust the dwell angle.

. Check and if necessary adjust the ignition setting.

. Warm up the engine. The correct temperature for
measuring the CO value is from the time when the
thermostat opens and up to five minutes thereafter.

4. Make the necessary test preparations and idle the
engine. Follow the recommendations for the indicator
in question.

5. Take a reading. The CO content should be 3—4.5 %.
If the value does not lie within these limits, the idling
mixture adjusting screw (19) of the carburetor must
be reset until the desired CO value is obtained. If the
value is too high, the adjusting screw must be screwed
in and vice versa if it is too low.

6. If the engine idling speed changes while adjusting the
carburetor it must be reset.

7. The procedure mentioned in 5 and 6 above must be

repeated until the engine idling speed is stable after

the adjustment in point 5.

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cam plate.

NOTE
If the idling speed mixture is adjusted when the en-
gine temperature is too high (long idling; fan starts
repeatedly), there is a risk that the fuel-air mixture
will be incorrect at normal temperatures. Wait until

the engine has cooled before continuing with the
FUEL HOLES IN CHOKE MECHANISM adjustment.

Ss 1697

Jan. 1972 SAAB 231-3

Page 176

Idling and fast idling settings in the absence of carbon
monoxide indicator

The idling adjustment is made in two stages: first the basic
fuel flow setting, then the engine speed adjustment.
Basic setting:

Remove the air cleaner and push the vacuum piston (6,

see illustration on opposite page) down towards the

bridge. Screw up the adjusting screw (19, see illustra-
tion on p. 231—1) until the jet touches the piston. Then
back off the adjusting screw 2 3/4 turns,

Engine speed adjustment:

1. Run the engine warm. :

2. Set the idling speed to about 600—700 rev/min with
the idling adjusting screw. Make sure that there is
clearance between the fast idling cam of the choke and
the adjusting screw on the throttle lever.

3. Turn the adjusting screw (19) clockwise to give a
leaner mixture until the engine starts to run roughly
as a result of fuel starvation. From this position, back
off the screw a quarter turn.

4. Make fine adjustments to the engine idling speed (800—
900 rev/min).

5. Make a clearance of 0.02—0.04” (0.5—1 mm) between
the fast idling cam and the throttle adjusting screw
when the choke is fully pushed in. In cold weather, a
small clearance is an advantage.

6. After adjusting the idling speed, screw the throttle
adjusting screw out or in so that movement of the
accelerator pedal is transmitted to the throttle spindle
without any noticeable play.

7. Check that the carburetor is set for the correct fuel
mixture as follows:

Race the engine and note whether it momentarily
drops below normal idling speed when it returns to
idling. If so, the setting is too lean; turn the adjusting
screw (19) 1/8 turn counterclockwise. Repeat the
checking until accurate return to idling is achieved.
If the engine can be started cold without using the
choke system, the carburetor setting is too rich; turn
the adjusting screw a quarter turn clockwise.

Choke control
Removing

1. Undo the control cable and its sheath from the carbu-
retor. Note how the cable is fitted, as it is different in
the case of each model. Free the cable in the engine
compartment.

2. Remove the contro! button. In the case of the 1969-1970
model, it is threaded onto the pull rod. As from the 1971
model, it is screwed onto the pull rod.

3. Unscrew the eye nut which holds the control onto the
instrument panel.

4. As from the 1970 model, remove the left section (in
R.H.D.-cars, the right section) of the protective panel-
ling. Up to and including the 1970 model, the head-
light switch must also be removed.

231-4

5. Undo the control cable from the instrument panel. As
from the 1970 model, undo the warning-light cable
from the control contact.

6. Pull the control cable out of the grommet on the dash
panel.

Installing

1. Check that the grommet is correctly positioned in the
dash panel. Feed in the control cable, so that it can be
fitted to the instrument panel. Up to the 1970 model,
this is easier if the cool air hose is removed or pushed
to one side.
2. As from the 1970 model, connect the warning-light
cable to the control contact. \
3. a. Mount the control onto the instrument panel.
b. Screw on the button.
4. Up to the 1970 model, replace the headlight circuit
switch onto the instrument panel.
5. As from the 1970 model, replace the protective panel- \
ling under the instrument panel.
. Refit the cable as far as the carburetor.
7. Fit the cable to the carburetor and trim in as explained
under “Choke control setting’.

co

Changing the choke control locking spring

Up to the 1970 model, the choke control locking spring

can be changed separately.

1, Remove the control as explained under “Removing”,
points 2,3, 4 and 5.

2. Fit the locking spring in the groove on the pull rod
guide bushing. Check its locking function.

3. Install the control.

Choke control setting
Make sure that the choke button is fully pushed in. Secure

the choke control wire in fast idling cam screw. Connect
the control with the clip.

Nov. 1972

Page 177

Setting the damper

Check that the damper is properly installed by introducing
a 0.275" (7 mm) spacer between the choke throttle cam
disc and the stop arm screw. The damper push rod should
then touch the stop on the stop arm. If necessary, adjust
the position of the damper with the nuts holding the damp-
er to the bracket.

e SETTING THE DAMPER

Jan. 1972 SAAB 231-5

Page 178

CARBURETOR, 1.7 AND 1.85 L ENGINES, EXPLODED VIEW

ON=0

OMNAAS ONS

. Damper screw cap

Vacuum chamber cover
Spring

Metal washer

Plastic washer
Diaphragm

. Vacuum piston

. Fuel needle

. O-ring

. Jet adjusting screw
. Jet retainer

. O-ring

. Float chamber

14.
18,
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.

Float

Float valve
Carburetor housing
Carrier

Valve plate

Choke plate

Choke mechanism housing
Fast idling cam plate
Aluminum washer
Bushing

O-ring

Guide bushing

Jet

Damper

$3478

Nov. 1972

Page 179

Carburetor, USA export model, 1.7 and 1.85 | engines

The carburetor is specially adjusted by the manufacturer
and fine tuned with a carbon monoxide meter by Saab.

10 19

Su475

CARBURETOR, USA, 1.7 AND 1.85 L ENGINES

1. Clip, choke control wire
2. Vacuum chamber cover
3. Damper cap
4. Air channel, float chamber ventilation
5. Channel, air to space under diaphragm
6. Channel, air to temperature compensator
7. Choke
8. Fast idling cam
9. Connection, choke control wire

10. Adjusting screw, fast idling

11, Idling screw

Adjusting the carburetor

Before adjusting the carburetor, check the following
parts of the system and adjust if necessary:

Spark plugs, breaker contacts (cam angle),

ignition setting and compression.
Check also that there is no leakage on the induction side
or in the vacuum control unit of the distributor. The
operation of the accelerator control and throttle should
also be checked.
Always use a carbon monoxide meter when adjusting the
carburetor. The setting must be made at an ambient tem-
perature of 59—779F (15—25°C) within eight minutes

Nov. 1972 SAAB

10. Adjusting screw, fast idling

11. Idling screw

12. Vacuum chamber cover

13. Damper cap

14. Air channel, float chamber ventilation
15. Channel, air to space under diaphragm
16. Channel, air to temperature compensator
17. Choke

18. Fast idling cam

19. Connection, choke control wire

after the opening of the coolant thermostat, the engine
being warmed up from stone cold.

For CO measurement it is important that the carburetor
is at the right temperature. You can check that it is not
too warm by feeling the float chamber with the hand.

It should be cold to the touch, i.e. not above room tem-
perature,

The air cleaner valve must be at the ‘Summer’ setting,
i.e. direct air intake without preheating. To be certain
of getting accurate CO readings, the measurement must
be made within the time limit stated above.

Measure the CO emission according to the instructions
that come with the CO meter. It is important that the

231-7

Page 180

exhaust pipes and mufflers are in perfect condition when

measurements are made.

1. Check that there is oil in the damper.

2. Connect a tachometer and warm up the engine until
the thermostat opens. (You can feel when the radiator
inlet from the thermostat housing starts to grow warm.)

3. Adjust engine idling speed to 800—850 rev/min with
the throttle screw.

4. Adjust the air screw to obtain the smoothest possible
idling.

5. Set a gap of 0.02—0.08” (0.5—2 mm) between the fast
idling cam and the throttle adjusting screw.

6. Having adjusted the idling speed, turn the throttle
control adjusting screw out or in until accelerator
pedal movement is transmitted to the throttle shaft
without any appreciable backlash.

7. Connect a CO meter and check that the CO emission
is below the limit laid down for the model in question.
The CO emission can be adjusted within narrow limits
with the air screw.

If the CO emission is too high, check the temperature
compensator first.

Temperature compensator

If the idling speed tends to fall off badly after prolonged
idling, especially in warm weather, check the operation

of the temperature compensator by taking off the plastic
cap and pushing in the valve, which should result in rougher
idling. If the valve has a tendency to move sluggishly or

to stick, it can be adjusted provided that it is not scored

or covered with scale, in which case it must be exchanged
as a unit.

Adjusting the valve

Slacken the cross-recessed screw of the bimetal spring and
center the valve so that it works smoothly.

CENTERING THE VALVE

231-8

At 68°F (20°C) the valve should have opened 0.004—
0.012” (0.1—0.3 mm). To check the setting, remove the
temperature compensator from the carburetor and store
it at 68°F (20°C) until it has assumed this temperature.
Adjust with the bimetal spring nut.

CHECKING THE SETTING OF THE TEMPERATURE
COMPENSATOR

Changing the temperature compensator

Change the temperature compensator as a complete unit.
To remove it, undo the two slotted screws.

NOTE
Both the outer and inner rubber gaskets must be
exchanged.

Nov. 1972