Page 161
pa
CRANKSHAFT (CRANK MECANISM)
1,7 and 1,85 | engines
Measuring the crankshaft
Clean the crankshaft and measure its journals with a
micrometer. Measurements should be made at several
points round the surface. Out-of-round at the main bear-
ing journals and big-end bearing journals should not ex-
ceed 0.002” (0.05 mm).
If the measurements are close to or over the stated limit
of wear, the crankshaft should be ground down to under-
sizes according to specification.
Check that the crankshaft is straight to within 0.002”
(0.05 mm) by indicating it; mount the shaft in two V-
blocks, place an indicator against the center journal, and
rotate the shaft. If necessary, true up the shaft in a press.
Changing the crankshaft seal (seal ring) at the flywheel end
The seal can be changed with the engine in place in the
car. The clutch and flywheel must first be removed.
1. Remove the old seal ring, using a screwdriver.
a],
$3453
REMOVING THE SEAL RING AT THE FLYWHEEL END
2. Fit a new seal ring, using guide sleeve 839041, install-
ing tool 839189 and drift 839192. Oil the sealing sur-
face of the ring before fitting.
Sue
NECESSARY TOOLS FOR FITTING THE SEAL RING AT
THE FLYWHEEL END
Tools 839041, 839189 and 839192
Dec. 1975
Press the seal ring into the seal cap by knocking the
drift with a shank or mallet.
FITTING THE SEAL RING
Tools 839041, 839189 and 839192
Changing the seal ring on a removed seal cap
1. Remove the old seal ring.
2. Put the seal cap on a level surface to avoid damaging
the sealing surface.
3. Mount the seal ring on to the spacing pin of installing
tool 839189.
4. Press the seal ring into the cap so that the spacing pin
on the installing tool goes right down to the surface
on which the cap rests.
JOVED SEAL CAP
FITTING THE SEAL RING INTO THE
Too! 839189
5. Oil the seal ring and mount the seal cap into the en-
gine, using guide sleeve 839041.
NOTE
If the seal cap is removed or fitted when the engine
is fitted to the gearbox, the seal between the cap
and the gearbox will be damaged.
216-1
Page 162
Changing the crankshaft seal (seal ring) at the transmis-
sion end
Engine and pulley removed
1. Remove the seal ring.
=e - - —— S467
REMOVING THE SEAL RING AT THE TRANSMISSION END
2. Fit a new seal ring and grease the sashing flanges with
silicone grease.
3. Use installing tool 839188 and drift 839044. Make
sure that the keyway on the installing tool is in line
with the key on the end of the crankshaft. Press the
seal ring into the transmission cover.
FITTING THE SEAL RING, TRANSMISSION END
Tools 839044 and 839188
Changing the seal ring on removed transmission cover
1. Remove the old seal ring.
2. Put the cover on a level surface to avoid damaging the
sealing surface. Press the seal ring into the cover, using
installing tool 839044.
FITTING THE SEAL RING INTO REMOVED TRANSMIS-
SION COVER
Tool 839188
NOTE
If the transmission cover is removed or fitted when
the engine is fitted to the gearbox, the seal between
the cover and the gearbox will be damaged.
Measuring and shimming the crankshaft chainwheel on
crankshaft after installation of new parts
When a new crankshaft, idler shaft or chainwheel has
been installed, the crankshaft chainwheel must be
shimmed to align it with the idler stiaft chainwheel,
as there will otherwise be excessive wear on the chain
transmission.
Measurethe chainwheel alignment as follows:
1. Lay the edge of a rule against the idler shaft chain-
wheel as close as possible to the center of the chain-
wheel and lying across the crankshaft chainwheel.
- S 1689
CHECKING AXIAL ALIGNMENT OF CRANKSHAFT
CHAINWHEEL
216—2 SAAB Dec. 1975
Page 163
Make sure that the edge of the rule butts flat against
the idler shaft chainwheel across its full width and
press it hard against the chainwheel.
. Adjust the axial position of the crankshaft chainwheel
if necessary, using shims to align the idler shaft chain-
5.
6.
Remove the water pump, fuel pump and distributor.
Remove the chainwheel from the idler shaft. Do not
turn the crankshaft, as the setting must not be dis-
turbed.
. Undo the two screws from the chain tensioner and
wheel and the camshaft chainwheel in the same plane. twist the tensioner up out of the way.
8. Remove the idler shaft.
If the transmission casing gasket is damaged in the course
of assembly or disassembly, a new gasket piece must be
cut to shape and glued in place with Tikatat 2. Apply the
adhesive to the transmission casing flange at the gasket
joints. Allow the adhesive to harden for a while, then
Position the gasket piece and let it dry on thoroughly
before mounting the transmission cover.
Replacement of disc-shaft bushing
1. Fill the bushing with grease.
2. Introduce centering tool 839206 into bushing and
tap gently with a plastic mallet in order to drive out
the bushing. If necessary, gradually add more grease
as the bushing is being driven out.
3. Remove all grease from the crankshaft and from the
tool. Take care so that no grease adheres to the fric-
tion surface of the flywheel.
4. Fit a new bushing, using centering tool 839003.
Assembling
1. Fit a new locating pin in the new idler shaft. Then press
on the chainwheel and having done this check that the
locating pin does not project beyond the chainwheel.
Insert the screws and tighten to a torque of 25 Nm
(18 ft.lb., 2.5 kpm).
2. Mount the idler shaft, setting the chainwheel with the
mark in the horizontal position and put on the chain.
3. Mount the chain tensioner, making the basic adjust-
ment to chain tension if necessary.
4, Fit the transmission cover. NOTE! Before fitting the
cover, knock the guide studs a fraction of an inch
(a few mm) deeper into the cylinder block.
. Fit the belt pulley and alternator drive belt.
. Mount the water pump. .
. Mount the distributor and adjust the ignition timing.
. Mount the fuel pump and inlet manifold complete
with carburetor and air cleaner.
Onan
REPLACEMENT OF DISC-SHAFT BUSHING
Tool 839206
Changing the idler shaft
(Engine mounted in work stand)
Disassembling
1. Remove the inlet manifold complete with carburetor
and air cleaner.
NOTE! This is not necessary on engines with electronic
fuel injection.
2. Take off the alternator drive belt and the crankshaft
belt pulley.
3. Undo the transmission cover screws and tap the cover
gently forward to unseat it from the locating studs
without damaging the gaskets.
4. Turn the crankshaft to TDC for No. 1 cylinder. The
distributor rotor arm should then also be in the igni-
tion position for No. 1 cylinder.
Dec. 1975 216-3
Page 164
CRANKSHAFT (CRANK MECANISM)
2.0 | engine
Measuring the crankshaft
Clean the crankshaft and measure its journals with a
micrometer. Measurements should be made at several
points round the surface. Out-of-round at the main bear-
ing journals and big-end bearing journals should not ex-
ceed 0.002” (0.05 mm).
\f the measurements are close to or over the started limit
of wear, the crankshaft should be ground down to under-
sizes according to specification.
The journals can be ground down one step below nominal
size without re-hardening. If they are ground more than
one step, the shaft must be ‘’tenifer-hardened” again.
Check that the crankshaft is straight to within 0.002”
(0.05 mm) by indicating it; mount the shaft in two V-
blocks, place an indicator against the center journal, and
rotate the shaft.
Measuring the clearance
Before the bearing clearance is measured in connection
with the fitting of new bearings, the out-of-round and
taper of the big-end bearing journals should be checked.
This clearance can be measured with a ‘’Plastigage”
which can be obtained as spare parts number 786050.
The Plastigage is available in three thicknesses. Type
PG—1 (green) should be used.
Instructions for use of Plastigage
Main bearings
The Plastigage can be used to measure both out-of-round
and clearance.
1. Place the engine with the cylinder head plane down-
wards to prevent the weight of the crankshaft from
affecting the measurement.
2. Ensure that the parts which are to be measured are
free from oil and dirt. Put a strip of Plastigage about
6 mm long to the side of the centreline.
PLASTIGAGE STRIP PLACED ON THE MAIN BEARING
JOURNAL
216—4 SAAB
3. Fit the cap and tighten to a torque of 108 Nm (79
ft. Ib., 11 kpm). The crankshaft must not be turned
during the measurement.
4. Remove the cap. The strip should by now have been
firmly pressed into the bearing cap or onto the big-
end bearing journal.
5. Measure the width of the flattened Plastigage strip
using the scale printed on the Plastigage package and
read off the clearance. One side of the package gives
the dimension in mm, the other side in thousandths
of inches. Measure the strip at its widest point, but
do not touch it with your fingers.
READING THE CLEARANCE
Big-end bearings
Plastigage strips cannot be used to measure out-of-round
with the pistons fitted in the block. A micrometer should
be used instead.
Big-end bearing clearance can be measured in connection
with the fitting of new bearings as follows.
1. Turn the crank which is to be measured to a position
about 60° before the top dead centre.
2. Ensure that those parts which are to be measured are
dry and free from oil and dirt. Place a strip of Plastigage
6 mm to the side of the centreline.
Dec. 1975
Page 165
a
cae
THE PLASTIGAGE STRIP PLACED ON THE BIG-END
BEARING JOURNAL
3. Fit the cap and tighten to a torque of 54 Nm (39 ft.
Ib., 5.5 kpm). The crankshaft must not be turned
during the measurement.
See further in points 4 and 5, main bearings.
Choice of bearing halves for main and big-end bearings
Bearing halves are available in two different classes for
standard size, Ist undersize and 2nd undersize. The two
classes are of different thickness and can be combined
to obtain the proper clearance.
For the 3rd and 4th undersizes, bearing halves are only
available in one thickness.
The classified bearing halves are colour-coded as fol-
lows:
Standard size:
Red — thin bearing half, gives INCREASED clearance
Blue — thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
1st undersize:
Yellow — thin bearing half, gives INCREASED clearance
Green — thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
2nd undersize:
White — thin bearing half, gives INCREASED clearance
Brown — thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
Example:
First try to obtain the proper clearance by fitting two
thin bearing halves. If the clearance is too large between
two thin bearing halves, fit a thin and a thick or two
thick halves to reduce the clearance.
If the clearance is too large even after two thick bearing
halves have been fitted, the crankshaft must be ground
down to the next possible undersize and bearing halves
of corresponding size fitted. See group 0.
NOTE
The crankshaft journals may be ground down one
undersize (0.25 mm) without necessitating hardening
of the shaft. If the crankshaft is ground down more
than one undersize, the shaft must be tenifer-harden-
ed again.
Dec. 1975
Changing the crankshaft seal (seal ring) at the flywheel end
The seal can be changed with the engine in place in the
car, The clutch and flywheel must first be removed.
1. Remove the old seal ring, using a screwdriver.
2. Fit a new seal ring with the spring ring facing the crank
shaft. Use guide sleeve 839197, installing tool 839196
and drift 839192. Oil the sealing surface of the ring
before fitting.
FITTING THE SEAL RING
Tools 839197, 839196 and 839192
3. Press the seal ring into the seal cap by knocking the
drift with a heavy hammer.
Changing the crankshaft seal (seal ring) at the transmis-
sion end
Engine and pulley removed
1. Remove the seal ring.
REMOVING THE SEAL RING
SAAB 216-5
Page 166
2. Fit a new seal ring and grease the sashing flanges with
silicone grease.
3. Use installing tool 839188 and drift 839044. Make
sure that the keyway on the installing tool is in line
with the key on the end of the crankshaft. Press the
seal ring into the transmission cover.
INSTALLING THE SEAL RING
Tools 839044 and 839188
Changing the seal ring on removed transmission cover
1. Remove the old seal ring.
2. Put the cover on a level surface to avoid damaging the
sealing surface. Press the seal ring into the cover, using
installing tool 839044.
NOTE
If the transmission cover is removed or fitted when
the engine is fitted to the gearbox, the seal between
the cover and the gearbox will be damaged.
Changing the clutch shaft bearing
1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the clutch shaft bearing from the flywheel,
using drift 839199.
REMOVING THE CLUTCH SHAFT BEARING
Tool 839199
3. Fit a new clutch shaft bearing in the flywheel, using
drift 839199.
FITTING THE CLUTCH SHAFT BEARING
Tool 839199
Measuring and shimming the crankshaft sprocket on
crankshaft after installation of new parts
When a new crankshaft, idler shaft or sprocket has been
installed, the crankshaft sprocket must be shimmed to
align it with the idler shaft sprocket, as there will other-
wise be excessive wear on the chain transmission.
Measure the sprocket alignment as follows:
1. Lay the edge of a rule against the idler shaft sprocket
as close as possible to the center of the sprocket and
lying across the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that
the edge of the rule butts flat against the idler shaft
sprocket across its full width and press it hard against
the sprocket.
216-6 SAAB Dec. 1975
Page 167
Changing the idler shaft
Disassembling
1. Take off the alternator drive belt and the crankshaft
belt pulley.
2. Undo the transmission cover screws and tap the cover
gently forward to unseat it from the locating studs
without damaging the gaskets.
3. Turn the crankshaft to TDC for No. 1 cylinder. The
distributor rotor arm should then also be in the igni-
tion position for No. 1 cylinder.
4. Remove the water pump and distributor.
5. Remove the sprocket from the idler shaft. Do not turn
the crankshaft, as the setting must not be disturbed.
6. Undo the two screws from the chain tensioner and
twist the tensioner up out of the way.
7. Remove the idler shatt.
CHECKING ALIGNMENT OF CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
2. Adjust the axial position of the crankshaft sprocket If the transmission casing gasket is damaged in the course
if necessary, using shims or grinding to align the idler of assembly or disassembly, a new gasket piece must be
shaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket in the same cut to shape and glued in place with Tikatat 2. Apply the
plane. adhesive to the transmission casing flange at the gasket
If the crankshaft sprocket is grinded, great care must joints. Allow the adhesive to harden for a while, then po-
be taken, so that no axial throw will occur. sition the gasket piece and let it dry on thoroughly before
mounting the transmission cover.
Assembling
1. Fit the idler shaft and fixing plate. Tighten the two
countersunk screws to prescribed torque.
2. Fit a new locating pin in the new idler shaft.
3. Put the chain on the sprocket and turn the idler shaft
until the locating pin and hole corresponds and the
sprocket can be mounted. Then check that the guide
sleeve is flush with the sprocket.
4. Mount the locking plate with the retaining screw.
Place a suitable dolly through one of the holes in the
sprocket and tighten the screw. Lock the screw with
the locking plate.
5. Turn the chain tensioner self-adjuster into its inner-
Most position. Mount the chain tensioner and stretch
the chain somewhat.
6. Fit the transmission cover. NOTE! Before fitting the
cover, knock the guide studs a fraction of an inch (a
few mm) deeper into the cylinder block.
. Fit the belt pulley and alternator drive belt.
. Mount the water pump.
9. Mount the distributor and adjust the ignition timing.
See section “Installing of engine’.
on
Sept. 1973 SAAB 216-7
Page 168
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Page 169
OIL PUMP
Rotary-type
Disconnecting
1. Undo the four retaining screws that pass through the
corners of the pump.
2. Withdraw the pump complete with drive shaft. Remove
the seal ring between the pump and cylinder block.
$1632
OIL PUMP WITH DRIVE SHAFT
Disassembly
1. Hold the pump in the hand with the guide sleeve of
the housing downward.
2. Remove the retaining spring from the pump cover and
twist the cover to one side. A guide sleeve in one of
the screw holes in the housing locates the cover. Check
that this sleeve is still in place when the cover is taken
off.
OIL PUMP, DISMANTLED
1. Spring 5. Rotor vanes
2. Cover 6. Spacer rings
3. Pressure reducing 7. O-ring
valve 8. Pump housing
4. Rotor 9. O-ring
Nov. 1972
3. Remove the rotor vanes and spacer rings.
4. Remove the pressure reducing valve in the cover by
freeing the lock ring in front of the aluminium spring
seat and taking out the spring and valve.
Assembling
1. Insert one spacer ring and the rotor, lubricating them
with engine oil.
2. Insert the vanes with the rounded edges outward
nearest the wall of the Pump housing.
3. Fit the other spacer ring and turn the rotor by rotating
the drive shaft until the vanes fall into their correct
Positions. Lubricate with engine oil.
4. Install the pressure reducing valve in the cover.
a. Insert the valve, spring and spring seat.
b. Fit the lock ring, checking that it enters its groove.
5. Locate the cover on the housing and fit the spring.
Birotor type
This type of dual rotor pump is fitted to all 2.0! engines
and to certain 1.7 and 1.85 | engines, commencing with
chassis No. 99.050.001.
Removal
1. Undo the four retaining screws that pass thru the
corners of the pump.
2. Remove the pump and the sealing ring between the
pump and the intermediate plate.
Dismantling
1, Remove the two screws holding the cover and the
pump housing together.
2. Separate the cover and the pump housing.
. Remove the rotors and the O-ring from the housing.
4. Remove the pressure reducing valve located in the
cover by pulling out the locking pin first and then re-
moving the plug, the O-ring, the spring and the valv
piston. ‘
wo
SAAB 221-1
Page 170
;
.
Checking clearance and wear Reassembly |
Check the axial clearance of the inner and outer rotors 1. Lubricate the rotors with engine oil and refit. NOTE!
to the rotor housing with a rule and feeler gauge. The The chamfered edge of the outer rotor faces inwards
clearance should be 0.00197’"—0.00354” (0.05—0.09 mm). in the pump housing (towards the drive shaft).
2. Fit the pressure reducing valve in the pump cover:
a. Fit the valve piston, the spring and the plug with
the O-ring.
b. Fit the locking pin.
3. Fit the pump housing O-ring and the cover.
1
CHECKING THE AXIAL CLEARANCE
\f the clearance must be adjusted, grind the sealing sur-
face of the housing or the sides of the rotor with fine
emery cloth on a flat wheel.
Check the evenness of the cover with a rule, see illus-
tration. All deformities, scratches and pits are to be re-
moved by grinding.
OIL PUMP
1. O-ring 6. Valve piston
2. Pump housing 7. Spring
3. O-ring 8. Plug
4. Rotors 9. O-ring
5. Cover 10. Locking pin
CHECKING EVENNESS OF COVER
Assembly )
1. 1.7 and 1.85 | engines:
Fit the oil pump and the O-ring to the cylinder block.
Make sure that the drive shaft is located correctly in
the distributor shaft.
2.0 | engine:
Fit the O-ring between the pump and the intermediate
plate, push in the pump and turn it so that the pump
drive engages in the rotor.
2. Fit and tighten the four retaining screws.
221-2 SAAB Nov. 1972