Page 511
774-2
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
87899
1. Upper ball joint
2. Steering swivel member
3. Lower ball joint
4. Brake dust shield
5. Wheel bearing
6. Circlip (inner circlip not shown)
7. Wheel hub
8. Brake disc
9. Brake disc mounting screw
10. Road wheel locating stud
(1988 and later models)
Fig. 2. Exploded view of front wheel bearing and steering swivel member.
4. Insert the special spacer tool (Saab part no. 83 93 209)
between the upper control arm and the body. See Fig. 3.
5. Raise the car and support it with jackstands. Remove
the front wheel, the center drive axle nut and washer
(where applicable).
WARNING
Always check that the car is stable on the jackstands before
starting any work.
6. Remove the brake caliper as described in 523 Brake
Calipers. Suspend the caliper from the body using stiff
wire. Remove the brake disc as described in 516 Brake
Discs.
7. Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from steering member. See 500 Brakes-General.
8. Remove the steering rack tie rod end from the steering
swivel member as described in 643 Tie Rod Ends.
Fig. 3. Spacer tool (arrow) inserted between upper control arm
and body. The spacer tool relieves upper control arm suspension loading on the steering member.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
9. Remove the bolts securing the upper and lower ball
joints to the control arms. See Fig. 4.
Page 512
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
774-3
NOTE
If necessary, drive the bolts out of the control anns using a
punch.
Fig. 5. Steering swivel member being removed from drive axle.
Fig. 4. Lower ball joint mounting bolt being removed. Upper ball
joint mounting bolts shown at arrows.
NOTE
Some later cars are equipped with an anti-roll bar that mounts
to the lower ball joint bolts.
Fig. 6.
Drive axle being tapped out of steering swivel member.
10. Using stiff wire, support the drive axle by wiring it to the
upper control arm. Then pull the steering swivel member from the drive axle and control arms. See Fig. 5.
WARNING
CAUTION
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These parts are designed to be
used only once and must be replaced whenever loosened or
removed.
Do not let the drive axle fall when removing the steering swivel
member. The drive axle boots may be damaged.
Tightening torque
NOTE
If necessary, use a soft-faced hammer to tap the drive axle out
of the steering swivel member. See Fig. 6.
11. Apply grease (Molycote G or equivalent) to the splines
of the drive axle. Then install the steering member to
the drive axle. See Fig. 7.
12. Install the upper and lower ball joints in the control
arms. Reinstall the bolts using new self-locking nuts.
• ball joint to
control arm (bolts) ..... 40 to 54 Nm (30 to 40 ft-Ib)
13. Install the tie rod end, the brake caliper, and the brake
disc. Where applicable, install the ASS wheel speed
sensor.
14. Install the washer (where applicable) and a new center
drive axle nut. Reinstall the wheel and lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the drive axle nut and then stake it
to the groove in the CV joint. See Fig. 8.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Page 513
774-4
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
15. Remove the spacer tool. Pump the brake pedal several
times to seat the brake pads.
To remove drive axle
CAUTION
Do not install the road wheel and lower the car to the ground
while the drive axle is removed, as the wheel hub is not supported. The weight of the car can damage the wheel bearing.
NOTE
A new drive axle assembly was introduced on 1987 models.
This drive axle is 6 mm longer than the earlier version and is
not interchangeable between models. Always check with an
authorized Saab dealer for the latest parts and service information.
Fig. 7. Steering swivel member being installed on drive axle.
WARNING
Tighten the center drive axle nut only while the car is on the
ground. The leverage required to do this could topple the car
from a lilt or jackstand.
1. Remove the steering swivel member as described
above.
2. Loosen the boot clamp from the inner universal joint.
See Fig. 9. Pull the drive axle out of the inner driver.
Wrap or cover the driver.
Tightening torques
• wheel hub to drive axle
(locking nut)
290-310 Nm (214- 229 ft-Ib)
• wheel lug nuts
90-110 Nm (66-88 ft-Ib)
• wheel lug bolts
105-125 Nm (77- 92 ft-Ib)
Fig. 9. Inner drive axle boot clamp being loosened.
CAUTION
Handle the drive axle and axle joints with care. Wrap or cover
the joints to protect them from dirt and to prevent the bearing
rollers and needle bearings from falling out of the joints.
Fig. 8. Center drive axle nut being staked. Always use a new nut.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace any damaged
drive axle boots. Place the drive axle in the transmission driver
and install the steering member as described earlier. Install the
drive axle washer (where applicable) and a new center drive
axle nut. Reinstall the wheel and lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the drive axle nut and then stake it to the groove in the
CV joint. See Fig. 8. Install and tighten the inner boot clamp.
Page 514
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
774-5
WARNING
Do not reuse locking nuts. These parts are designed to be
used only once and must be replaced whenever loosened or
removed..
Tightening torques
• wheel hub to drive axle
(locking nut)
290-310 Nm (214- 229 ft-Ib)
• wheel lug nuts
90-110 Nm (66-88 ft-Ib)
• wheel lug bolts
105-125 Nm (77- 92 ft-Ib
To replace outer CV joint and joint boot
When replacing the CV joint, be sure to have on hand the
special CV joint grease, a new boot, new clamps, and a new
drive axle nut.
CAUTION
The outer CV joint should be lubricated with a special CV joint
grease specifically designed for the purpose. Do not use any
other type of lubricant. See an authorized Saab dealer for the
correct grease.
Fig. 10. Circlip pliers being used to expand CV joint circlip. Insert
pliers in circlip opening, As an alternative. use a flat blade
screwdriver to spread the circlip open.
Outer CV joint lubricant
1. Remove the drive axle from the car as described earlier.
2. Remove the old clamps from the boot and then cut the
boot off the joint.
3. Expand the drive axle circlip shown in Fig. 10 and pull
the CV joint off the shaft.
4. Thoroughly clean and degrease the joint and the drive
axle. Allow the parts to dry.
CAUTION
When the grease is removed from the CV joint, the balls can
fall out if the joint is positioned the right way.
5. Install the new boot clamps and the boot to the shaft.
Slide the boot down the shaft.
NOTE
The old boot clamps should not be reused.
6. Repack the CV joint with the special grease. Work the
grease into the joint.
• Esso nebula EP2 grease or
equivalent
80 grams (approx. 3 oz.)
7. While expanding the circlip, slide the greased CV joint
onto the shaft until it locks into place. Check that the CV
joint is locked on the shaft by trying to pull it off.
8. Slide the boot and clamps into position. Release any
trapped air in the boot by peeling up a corner of the
boot and giving it a light squeeze.
9. Crimp the clamps using the appropriate crimping pliers
(Knipex 1099 or equivalent). See Fig. 11.
10. Install the drive axle using a new locking nut as as described earlier. Be sure to stake the nut to the axle as
shown in Fig. 8.
To replace inner universal joint and joint boot
Fig. 12 shows the inner universal joint and the transmission
driver. When replacing the universal joint, be sure to have on
hand the special grease, a new boot, and new clamps.
CAUTION
The universal joint should be lubricated with a special grease
specifically designed for the inner joint. Do not use any other
type of lubricant. See an authorized Saab dealer for the correct grease. The grease used to lubricate the inner joint is different than the grease used in the outer joint.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Page 515
774-6
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
Fig. 11. CV boot clamp and crimping pliers.
Fig. 13. Circlip being removed from inner drive axle joint.
NOTE
A new drive axle assembly was introduced on 1987 models.
This drive axle is 6 mm longer than the earlier version and is
not interchangeable between models. Always check with an
authorized Saab dealer for the latest parts and service information ..
5. Install the new boot and the new clamp on the shaft.
Crimp the clamp using the appropriate crimping pliers
(Knipex 1099 or equivalent). See Fig. 11 shown above.
6. Install the joint on the drive axle and install the circlip.
7. Pack the universal joint and the transmission driver
with the appropriate amount of the specified grease.
Inner Universal Joint Grease
• Mobil GS57C or equivalent
• universal joint
• transmission driver
60 g (approx. 2 oz.)
115 g (approx. 4 oz.)
Fig. 12. Inner universal joint and transmission driver,
1, Remove the drive axle as described earlier. Mount the
drive axle in a vise with the inner joint facing up,
2. Remove the circlip from the end of the drive axle, See
Fig. 13. Pull the joint off the shaft while holding the roller bearings to the joint.
8. Install the drive axle as described earlier.
CAUTION
Do not let any dirt fall into the inner universal joint during installation of the drive axle, Temporarily wrap or cover the inner
joint and boot during installation,
NOTE
Use care when removing the joint from the shaft, The rollers
and small needle bearings can fall off the joint.
3. Remove the boot clamp and slide the boot off the shaft.
4. Thoroughly clean and degrease the joint, the drive
axle, and the driver on the side of the transmission. Allow the parts to dry. If necessary, wipe the parts dry with
a clean cloth, Where applicable, inspect the inner circlip and replace if damaged.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
To replace front wheel bearing
Special tools, including a service press, are required to
replace the front wheel bearings,
CAUTION
Do not install the road wheel and lower the car to the ground
while the drive axle is removed, as the wheel hub is not supported, The weight of the car can damage the wheel bearing.
Page 516
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
774-7
NOTE
Some cars (up through mid-1990 models) may experience a
clunking or snapping noise at the wheel when backing up at
low speeds with the steering at full lock (such as when parking). This noise is most likely caused by the wheel bearing
sliding back and forth in the steering member. This problem
can be corrected by installing a new bearing and the appropriate shims. See an authorized Saab dealer for more infonnation on this repair.
1. Remove the steering swivel member from the car as
described earlier in this section.
2. Using the special wheel bearing press fixture tools
(Saab tool nos. 89 96 449 and 89 96 456), press the
hub out of the steering member. See Fig. 14.
NOTE
Pressing the hub out of the bearing destroys the bearings. In
most cases, the bearing inner race will remain on the hub.
Fig. 15. Bearing inner race being pulled off hub.
Fig. 14. Wheel hub being pressed out of wheel bearing.
3. If necessary, pull the inner bearing race off the hub using a two-jaw puller. See Fig. 15.
4. Remove the circlips from the steering swivel member.
See Fig. 16.
5. Using the special wheel bearing press fixture tools
(Saab tool nos. 8996449, 8996456, and 83 90 114),
press the wheel bearing out of the steering swivel
member. See Fig. 17.
Fig. 16. Circlip being removed from rear of wheel bearing. Circlip
on other side of wheel bearing must also be removed.
6. Clean the steering member housing. Install the inner
circlip in the steering member. See Fig. 18. Lubricate
the inside of the steering member with Molycote G
grease or an equivalent.
NOTE
Inspect the circlip carefully. If it is defonned or will not expand
into the groove, replace it with a new one.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Page 517
774-8
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
Fig. 17. Wheel bearing being pressed alit of steering member.
Fig. 19. Front wheel bearing being pressed into steering swivel
member. Numbers shown are Saab tool numbers.
9. Press the wheel hub into the bearing in the steering
member using special tools (Saab tool nos. 83 90 114
and 89 96 464). See Fig. 20.
Fig. 18. Inner circlip being installed to circlip groove in steering
member,
7. Using the special press tools (Saab part nos. 8390 114
and 89 96 464), press the new bearing into the steering
member until it is firmly seated on the circlip. See Fig.
19.
NOTE
Be sure to position Saab tool no. 89 96 464 so that the larger
diameter collar is facing up.
8. Install the outer circlip.
Rg. 20. Wheel Hub (arrow) being pressed into steering member.
NOTE
• Inspect the circlip carefully. If it is deformed or will not expand into the groove, replace it with a new one .
• Before pressing the hub into the steering member, inspect
the wheel studs (where applicable) and replace any that are
wom. Wheel studs are pressed out of the hub after the hub is
removed from the steering member.
DRIVE AXLES AND FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Install the steering swivel member as described above.
WARNING
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These parts are designed to be
used only once and must be replaced whenever loosened or
removed.
Page 518
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
Replacing Front Wheel Studs
Saab recommends that the wheel hub be pressed out of
the steering member to replace the wheel studs. It may by
possible in some cases to tap the stud out of the hub after
removing the brake disc. See 516 Brake Discs for
information on removing the brake disc. A special press tool
(Saab tool no. 89 95 920) can be used to press the studs out
of the hub.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND WHEEL
HUBS
The rear wheel bearing and hub are replaced as an
assembly. Neither the bearing or the hub are available as
separate replacement parts. The bearing is permanently
sealed and does not require any maintenance. There are two
types of rear hubs and bearings used on cars covered by this
manual. See Fig. 21.
The rear wheel bearing is integral with the wheel hub. The
wheel bearing hub assembly is fitted to the stub axle on the
rear axle and retained by a large locking nut.
774-9
WARNING
Loosen and tighten the center axle nut only while the car is on
the ground. The leverage required to do this could topple the
car from a lift or jackstand.
CAUTION
Make sure the staked part of the center axle nut does not interfere with the spindle threads. If the threads are stripped, the
entire axle has to be replaced.
3. Raise the car and support it with jackstands. Remove
the rear wheel, the center axle nut and washer (where
applicable).
WARNING
Make sure the car is well supported with jackstands. Never
use just a jack to support a car.
4. Remove the brake caliper as described in 523 Brake
Calipers. Suspend the caliper with stiff wire.
5. Remove the brake disc as described in 516 Brake
Discs. Where applicable, remove the ASS wheel
speed sensor and handbrake cable.
6. Remove the hub.
NOTE
On 1985-1987 models press off the hub using special tool
(Saab tool no. 8996 084). See Fig. 22.
2
1. Hub and wheel bearings
2. Brake disc
3. Road wheel locating stud
4. Dustcap
5. Brake dust shield
87921
Fig. 21. Exploded view of rear hub and brake disc (center axle nut not
shown).
To replace rear wheel bearing
1. Working at the rear wheel, remove the hub dust cap.
2. Using a punch, pry up the staked material on the center
axle nut. With the car on the ground, loosen, but do not
remove the center axle nut.
Fig. 22. Rear hub being pressed off axle on 1985 to 1987 models.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND WHEEL HUBS
Page 519
774-10
Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
Installation is the reverse of removal. Clean the stub axle
and remove any burrs or pits with an emery cloth. Lubricate
the stub axle with thin oil.
NOTE
• The hub and bearings are replaced as an assembly.
• Install the hub and bearings using thumb pressure against
the bearing race to prevent the race from sliding. See Fig. 23.
To replace rear wheel studs
NOTE
It may be possible in some cases to tap the wheel studs
(where applicable) out of the hub using a brass or plastic hammer. If it is not possible to tap out the studs, a special press is
available from Saab. The pressing procedure is given below.
The new studs should be fully seated in the hub by putting the
wheel on and torquing the wheel lug nuts to the correct value
given elsewhere in this section.
1. Raise the car and support it with jackstands. Remove
the rear wheel.
WARNING
Make sure the car is well supported with jackstands. Never
use just a jack to support a car.
2. Remove the brake caliper as described in 523 Brake
Calipers. Suspend the caliper with stiff wire.
3. Remove the brake disc as described in 516 Brake
Discs.
4. Press out the wheel stud using the special tool (Saab
tool nO.89 95 920) and a sleeve located behind the hub.
See Fig. 24.
Fig. 23. Rear hub and bearing being installed.
Replace the center axle nut with a new one and torque it to
the value given below with the car on the ground. Stake the
nut as shown earlier.
NOTE
Early models have a replaceable seal and bearings. On later
models, the bearings and seal are integral with the hub and
are not available separately. See your Saab dealer for exact
parts applications.
Fig. 24. Rear wheel stud being pressed out of hub. Number
shown is Saab tool number.
Tightening torques
• center axle nut
to rear axle
• wheel lug nuts
• wheel lug bolts
300±10 Nm (220±9 ft -Ib)
90 to 110 Nm (66 to 81 ft-Ib)
105 to 125 Nm (77 to 92 ft-Ib)
5. Press in the new stud using the same tool. Position the
sleeve on the outside of the hub.
6. Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND WHEEL HUBS
Page 520
Body-General
800-1
800 Body-General
Body
800-1
Seats, Seat Belts, and Interior
800-1
BODY
Fig. 1 shows the overall body dimensions for the three
900 body styles. The hood, the grille, the doors, and the
trunk lid are all removable. These bolt-on components are
easily replaced even if you have little or no knowledge of
auto body repair. The front fenders, however, are welded
to the main body structure. Because very few screws and
bolts are used in assembling the body, fewer rattles are
likely to develop. The ride is quieted further by the
application of sound-dampening material to the floor plates
and the body panels.
Instrument Cluster, Center
Console, and Instrument Panel
I
800-2
l"'lII(f---72.3 - - .
I
14----69.1 --~
The Saab 900 body is of welded, unitized construction,
meaning it does not have a separate frame. This design
forms a very rigid passenger compartment, with large
crumple zones in the front and rear for energy absorption
in the event of a collision. See Fig. 2.
During manufacture, the various body panels, subassemblies,
and a number of smaller pressed-steel panels and plates
are joined by electric welding. Although all body panels are
available as replacement parts, many of these
replacement panels must be butt-welded to the body after
the damaged panels have been cut away.
For corrosion protection, all steel is treated with a multilayer finish. The body seams are then sealed using a PVC
compound. The body is undercoated and all interior
cavities are flooded with a rust preventative sealant. The
'front fenders are open to allow trapped moisture to
evaporate. See Fig. 3.
SEATS, SEAT BELTS, AND INTERIOR
~ - - - 99.1------.1
The front seats are mounted to the tloor. Rear seats are
bolted to the body and are easily removed for access to the
rear seat belt mountings. The seat belts are typical threepoint belts that cross the hips and the shoulder. Some later
models use a motorized passive restraint seat belt system.
Most interior trim is easily removed using ordinary hand
tools.
~------184.4 in. - - - - -
Fig. 1. Body dimensions. Dimensions on some sport models may
vary slightly
SEA TS, SEAT BELTS, AND INTERIOR