Page 471
Steering and Wheel Alignment-General
600-3
Table a. Steering and Wheel Alignment Troubleshooting
Symptom
1. Pull to one side,
wandering
Probable cause
a. Incorrect tire pressure
Corrective action
a. Check and correct tire pressures
b. Defective/unevenly wom tire
b. Inspect tires and replace as needed
c. Incorrect wheel alignment
c. Check and adjust wheel alignment. 601 Wheel Alignment
d. Faulty brakes (pulls only under
braking)
d. See 5 BRAKES
2. Little or no power
assist when
car/engine is cold
a. Wom control valve and seals
a. Replace steering rack. 644 Power Steering
3. Steering heavy,
noisy, poor retumto-center
a. Incorrect tire pressure
a. Check and correct tire pressures
b. Low power steering fluid
b. Check power steering fluid and add as required. See
1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
c. Loose, wom or broken power
steering pump V-belt
c. Inspect V-belt. lighten or replace as necessary. See
1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
d. Wom front suspension parts, such as
rubber bushings.
d. Inspect and replace any wom parts found. See 7 SUSPENSION
e. Wom or damaged steering column
universal joint
e. Replace universal joint. 641 Steering Column
f. Faulty power steering pump
g. Air in power steering fluid
f. Test and, if necessary, replace pump. 644 Power Steering
g. Repair air leak and, if necessary, add fluid. 644 Power Steering
a. Unbalanced wheels/tires or front
wheels out of alignment
a. Balance tires. Align front wheels. Check tires for uneven wear
pattems
4. Front-end vibration
orshimmy
5. Knocking,
thumping or
clicking noises from
front end
6. Steering loose,
imprecise
b. Loose wheel lug bolts
b. lighten lug bolts to proper torque
c. Bent wheel rim (radial or lateral
runout)
c. Inspect wheels and replace as necessary
d. lire(s) out-of-round (radial runout)
d. Measure tire radial runout and remount or replace as necessary
e. Severely wom shock absorbers
e. Replace wom shocks and shock bushings. See 7 SUSPENSION
f. Wom control arm bushings
f.
a. Wom shock absorber bushings
a. Check and, if necessary, replace bushings. 731 Front
Suspension
b. Wom front suspension bushings
b. Check and, if necessary, replace bushings. 731 Front
Suspension
c. Loose suspension mounting bolts
c. Retorque all front suspension fasteners. 731 Front Suspension
d. Wom CV joints or wheel bearings
d. Replace wom CV joints or wheel bearings. n4 Wheel Bearings
and Drive Axles
a. Incorrect tire pressure
a. Check and correct tire pressures
Replace bushings. 632 Control Arms
b. Wom steering rack bushings
b. Replace bushings. 644 Power Steering
c. Wom tie rod end(s)
c. Replace tie rod end(s) and align wheels. 643 Tie Rod Ends,
601 Wheel Alignment
d. Faulty front wheel bearings
d. Replace wheel bearing. n4 Wheel Bearings and Drive Axles
e. Wom or damaged steering column
universal joint
e. Replace universal joint. 641 Steering Column
f. Wom or damaged steering rack
f. Replace steering rack. 644 Power Steering
TROUBLESHOOTING
Page 472
Wheel Alignment
601-1
601 Wheel Alignment
Wheel Alignment Specifications
Front Wheel Toe-in
To adjust toe-in
Front Wheel Camber and Caster
601-1
601-2
601-2
601-2
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
The specifications and procedures given in this repair group
are designed to be used in conjunction with special wheel
alignment equipment. Only the alignment of the front wheels is
adjustable, although rear wheel alignment can be checked.
Checking wheel alignment is normally necessary whenever
new tires are installed, if the tires are wearing abnormally, or if
the car wanders to one side or handles irregularly.
Checking tire balance is recommended when doing a front
wheel alignment.
There are two chassis used on the cars covered by this
manual; a standard chassis and a sport chassis. To identify
the type of chassis, measure the distance between the top of
the wheel rim and the seam line between the fender and the
hood. See Fig. 1.
TABLES
a. Wheel Alignment Specifications
601-1
WARNING
On cars equipped with an SRS airbag system, do not attempt
to remove the steering wheel without first disarming the SRS
system. The airbag may ignite causing injury. See an authorized Saab dealer for any repairs necessary to the SRS system.
When checking front wheel alignment, the car should be on
a level surface with a full tank of gas. There should be no
passengers or additional weight in the car. Table a lists wheel
alignment specifications for cars covered by this manual.
Always make sure that tire pressures are correct and that no
suspension or steering components are worn.
Table a. Wheel Alignment Specifications
Measurement
Model
except sport
chassis
sport chassis
Front
turbo
Caster
2°±0.5
2°±0.25
Camber
0.5°±O.5
0.25°±0.25
Toe-in
2±1 mm
(0.08±0.04 in.)
1.5±O.5 mm
(0.06±0.02 in)
Swivel pin
inclination
11.5°±1
11.5°±1
Steering angleouter wheel
20°
20°
Steering angleinner wheel
20.75°±0.50
20.75°±0.50
4±1 mm
(0.16±0.04 in.)
4±1 mm
(0.16±0.04 in.)
-o.so±0.25
-o.5°±0.25
Rear
Toe-in
Camber
Fig. 1. Chassis ride height measurement (dimension B),
Chassis Ride Height (dimension B)
• standard chassis
• sport chassis
with 15 in. wheel
with 16 in. wheel
243 mm (9.56 in.)
230 rnm (9.06 in.)
217 rnm (8.54 in.)
I
CAUTION
The front wheel toe-in specifications listed in Table a are only
applicable when making measurements directly from the rim,
such as when using a toe bar. If optical alignment equipment
is used, the specifications need to be corrected based on type
of equipment being used. Most modem alignment equipment
is based on a universal 28.64 in. circle.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICAnONS
Page 473
601-2
Wheel Alignment
NOTE
Swivel pin inclination, also known as king pin inclination, is not
adjustable. If the swivel pin inclination is incorrect, the swivel
member must be replaced as described under n4 Wheel
Bearings and Drive Axles.
87859-561166
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in is adjusted by varying the length of the threaded tie
rod in the tie rod end. Screwing the rod into the tie rod end will
decrease toe-in and screwing the rod out will increase toe-in.
Fig. 3. Maximum permissible length (e) of tie rod must not exceed
125 mm (4.92 in.).
Front Wheel Camber and Caster
To adjust toe-in
1. Working from below, loosen the tie rod lock nut. See
Fig. 2.
Fig. 2. Tie rod locknut being loosened. (Wheel shown removed
for clarity.)
2. Using a locking pliers, turn the tie rod in or out to obtain
the correct setting.
CAUTION
When the toe-in selting is correct, tighten the tie rod lock nut.The length of the tie rod from the locknut to the stepped part
of the rod must never exceed 125 mm (4.92 in). See Fig. 2.
Also, the difference in length between the two rods must not
exceed 2 mm (0.08 in.). For example, if the right rod measured 124 mm, the left rod must measure between 122 mm
and 125 mm. See Fig. 3.
Camber and caster are adjusted by varying the number of
shims under the upper control arm bearing brackets. See Fig.
4. The shims are available from an authorized Saab dealer in
thicknesses of 0.5 mm, 1.0 mm and 2.0 mm.
Fig. 4. Camber/caster shims being removed from upper control
arm bearing bracket.
Camber is adjusted by changing the number of shims
equally under both the front and rear brackets. Removing an
equal number of shims from beneath both brackets will
increase positive camber. Adding shims will reduce positive
camber.
Caster is adjusted by changing the number of shims from
either the left or the right bearing brackets. Moving shims
from the front bearing bracket to the rear bearing bracket will
increase the caster. Moving shims from the rear bracket to
the front bracket will reduce caster. Once the final
adjustments have been made, torque the bracket bolts.
Tightening torque
Tightening torque
• steering tie rod to
tie rod end (locknut) .... 60 to 80 Nm (44 to 59 ft-Ib)
• upper control arm bearing
bracket to body
40 to 55 Nm (30 to 40 ft-Ib)
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICA nONS
Page 474
Ball Joints
631-1
631 Ball Joints
Checking and Replacing Ball Joints. 631-1
To check ball joint play
To replace ball joints
631-2
631-1
CHECKING AND REPLACING BALL
JOINTS
The ball joints locate the steering swivel member to the
upper and lower control arms. See Fig. 1. The ball joints are
permanently lubricated and do not require any service. If
found to be worn, they must be replaced. See 632 Control
Arms for illustrations of ball joint mountings to the control
arms.
To check ball joint play
To accurately check ball joints for wear, the coil spring
tension on the control arm must be relieved. A special tool, as
shown below, is available for this purpose.
1. With the car on the ground, insert spacer tool (Saab
part no. 83 93 209) between the upper control arm and
the body. See Fig. 2.
WARNING
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These parts are designed to be
used only once and must always be replaced once loosened
or removed.
Fig. 2. Spacer tool (arrow) inserted between upper control arm
and body, The spacer tool relieves suspension loading on
the ball joints.
2. Loosen the wheel lug bolts or nuts, then raise the front
of the car and support it securely on jack stands designed for the purpose. Remove the wheel.
3. Carefully inspect the ball joint rubber boots. If any boot
is torn or cracked, the complete ball joint should be replaced.
4. Using water pump pliers, check the axial (up-down)
play of the upper and lower ball joints. See Fig. 3. If the
play is excessive, the ball joint must be replaced.
87799
1. Upper ball joint
2. Swivel member
3. Wheel bearing and circlip
4. Lower ball joint
Fig. 1. Exploded view of steering swivel member.
CHECKING AND REPLACING BALL JOINTS
Page 475
631-2
Ball Joints
CAUTION
Use care not to damage the ball joint rubber boot with the pry
bar.
If the ball joints are in good shape, loosely install the wheel.
Lower the car and tighten the wheel bolts or nuts. Remove
the spacer tool from the opening in the body.
Tightening torque
• road wheel to wheel hub
lug nuts
90 to 110 Nm (66 to 81 ft-Ib)
lug bolts
105 to 125 Nm (77 to 92 ft-Ib)
Fig. 3.
Lower ball joint being checked for axial (up-down) play using
water pump pliers.
Ball joint wear limit
• maximum axial play
To replace ball joint
The procedure below applies to both upper and lower ball
joints.
2 mm (0.078 in.)
WARNING
5. Using a pry bar, check the radial (side-to-side) play of
the upper and lower ball joint. Gently pry the joint back
and forth to check for play. See Fig. 4. If the play is excessive, the ball joint must be replaced.
Do not reuse self-locking nuts. These parts are designed to be
used only once and must always be replaced once loosened
or removed.
1. With the car on the ground, insert spacer tool (Saab no.
83 93 209) between upper control arm and body. See
Fig. 2 above.
2. Loosen the wheel lug bolts or nuts, then raise the front
of the car and support it securely on jack stands designed for the purpose. Remove the Wheel.
WARNING
Always check that the car is stable on the jack stands before
starting any work.
3. Using a jack under the control arm, raise the lower control arm slightly. Remove the lower shock absorber
mounting nut and pull the shock off its mount. See Fig. 5.
Fig. 4. Lower ball joint radial (side-to-side) play being checked using pry-bar (arrow).
Ball joint wear limit
• maximum radial play. . . . . . . . . .. 1 mm (0.040 in.)
4. Lower the jack just until the drive axle is just contacting
the body opening. Lock the jack in position for support.
5. Remove the self-locking nut holding the ball joint to the
steering member.
6. Separate the ball joint using a press tool. See Fig. 6.
CHECKING AND REPLACING BALL JOINTS
,
Page 476
Ball Joints
631-3
7. Remove the two through-bolts holding the ball joint to
the control arm. See Fig. 7. Remove the ball joint by
sliding it out of the control arm.
Fig. 5. Shock absorber being removed from control arm mounting.
CAUTION
Do not use a ball joint separator fork to remove the ball joint
from the steering member. The steering member may be damaged as a result.
Fig. 7. Ball joint-to-control arm mounting bolts shown at arrows.
Upper ball joint shown, lower ball joint is similar.
CAUTION
If the upper ball joint is being removed, do not remove the bolt
for the spring saddle as the spring is under compression.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace the ball joint
bolts and all self-locking nuts. Torque the bolts and nuts to
the values given below. Be sure to remove the spacer tool
when the job is complete.
Tightening torques
• balljoint to steering swivel member
(self-locking nut)
35 to 50 Nm (26 to 37 ft-Ib)
• balljoint to control arm bolts
(self-locking nuts)
40 to 55 Nm (30 to 40 ft-Ib)
Fig. 6.
Upper ball joint being pressed out of steering swivel member, Special press tool (Saab tool no, 8995409) shown.
• road wheel to wheel hub
lug nuts
90 to 110 Nm (66 to 81 ft-Ib)
lug bolts
105 to 125 Nm (77 to 92 ft-Ib)
CHECKING AND REPLACiNG BALL JOINTS
Page 477
Control Arms
632-1
To replace control arm bushings
Removing and Installing Control Arms
To remove upper control arm
To remove lower control arm
632-2
632-2
632-3
632-4
632 Control Arms
General
632-1
Control Arms and Control
Arm Bushings
632-1
view of the lower control arm and it bushings. The upper
control arm is similar.
GENERAL
The independent front suspension for each front wheel
consists of two control arms, each of which is pivot-mounted
to the unibody by bearing brackets fitted with rubber
bushings. The steering swivel member is mounted to the
control arms via ball joints. See Fig. 1.
. . v;
·L
~
<> /
~~ ..
2
87886-S6405
5
1.
2.
3.
Lower control ann
Bearing brackets
Bushings
Fig. 2.
4.
5.
Lock washer
Locknut
Exploded view of lower control arm.
WARNING
1. Upper control ann
2. Upper ball joint
3. Lower ball joint
4. Lower control ann
5. Bearing bracket with
rubber bushing
If the controls anns have been subjected to violent stresses as
a result of a collision or a road hazard, they must be carefully
inspected for bending or distortion. Be sure to also inspect the
bearing brackets and their mountings to the body.
Fig. 1. Cut-away view of control arms and front suspension.
NOTE
CONTROL ARMS AND CONTROL ARM
BUSHINGS
The control arms are not normally replaced unless
damaged. The control arm bushings, on the other hand, are
prone to wear under normal use and high mileage. Inspecting
the control arms includes checking for distortion or damage
due to collisions or road hazards. The bushings should be
inspected for wear or deterioration. Fig. 2 shows an exploded
Ball joint inspection is covered in 631 Ball Joints. Steering tie
rod end inspection is covered in 643 Tie Rod Ends.
Worn control arm bushings are often noticed through
knocking or clunking sounds when traveling over rough road
surfaces. Before inspecting for damaged parts or worn
bushings, first check the tightness of all fasteners using a
torque wrench. See Fig. 3.
CONTROL ARMS AND CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
Page 478
632-2
Control Arms
CAUTION
Oil or grease must not be allowed to come into contact with
the bushings. Use only soapy water.
Upper Control Arm
~C
7841349
Lower Control Arm
87887-S6404
Fig. 4.
A Upper control arm bearing bracket
(front or rear) to body
40 to 55 Nm (30 to 40 ft-Ib)
B Coil spring seat to
control arm
55 to 110 Nm (40 to 81 ft-Ib)
C Ball joint to control arm
(upperor lower)
40 to 55 Nm (30 to 40 ft-Ib)
D Lower control arm bearing bracket (front or rear) to body
M12 dry joint.
70 to 95 Nm (52 to 70 ft-Ib)
M121ubricated joint
(waxed nut)
.45 to 55 Nm (33 to 40 ft-Ib)
E Lower control arm
bracket to body
Fig. 3.
25 to 35 Nm (18 to 26 ft-Ib)
Exploded view of upper and lower control arm fasteners.
Special press tool used to install control
arm bushing,
NOTE
Saab tool no, 78 41 349 is used to replace lower control arm
bushings (as shown above) and Saab tool no. 78 41 331 is
used to replace the upper control arm bushings.
3. Install the bearing brackets to the control arm and position them as shown in Fig. 5. Tighten the locknut while
holding the brackets in position. Recheck the angle of
the bracket. Bend over the lock washer to lock the nut
in place.
Bearing bracket to control arm (locknut and lock
washer)
• upper control arm bracket to
control arm
55 to 70 Nm (40 to 52 ft-Ib)
• lower control arm bracket to
control arm
75 to 90 Nm (55 to 66 ft-Ib)
To replace control arm bushings
1. Remove the control arm as described below. Remove
the bearing brackets from the control arm.
2. Press the old bushing out of the bracket. Thoroughly
clean the bearing brackets. Apply soapy water to the
new bushing and press it into the bracket. See Fig. 4.
CONTROL ARMS AND CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
4. Install the control arm as described below.
Removing and Installing Control Arms
Removing and installing the driver's side upper control arm
will require removal of the engine. With the engine installed,
there is not enough clearance to pull the control arm from the
Page 479
Control Arms
632-3
Upper Control Arm
o 0
Lower Control Arm
~87888·6403
Fig. 6. Shock absorber being removed from control arm mounting.
Fig. 5. Control arm bearing bracket installation angles.
body. Removing the passenger's side upper control arm
requires that the engine be suspended with a hoist so that an
engine mount can be removed. Special tools are required to
remove the upper control arms. Read the procedures
completely before starting any work.
4. Compress the suspension coil spring using a spring
compressor (Saab no. 88 18 791 and 88 18 809 or
equivalent). Remove the spring from the car. See Fig. 7.
WARNING
Work carefully as the spring is compressed. Check to make
sure that the spring compressor is always securely seated on
the spring.
WARNING
• Special spring compressing tools (Saab tool no. 88 18791
or equivalent) are required to remove and install the upper
control arms. Do not attempt to remove the upper control arms
without the proper tools, as serious injury could result.
• Do not reuse self-locking nuts or locking washers. These
parts are designed to be used only once and must be replaced
once removed.
To remove upper control arm
1. If removing the driver's side control arm, remove the
engine as described in 201 Engine Removal and Installation.
2. Loosen the wheel lug bolts or nuts, then raise the front
of the car and support it securely on jack stands designed for the purpose. Remove the front wheel.
WARNING
Always check that the car is stable on the jack stands before
starting any work.
3. Using a jack under the control arm, raise the lower control arm slightly. Remove the lower shock absorber
mounting nut and pull the shock off its mount. See Fig.
6. Remove the jack.
Fig. 7. Compressed coil spring being removed from car.
5. Remove the spring seat and upper ball joint mounting
bolts. See Fig 8. Remove the spring seat and ball joint
from the control arm.
CONTROL ARMS AND CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
Page 480
632-4
Control Arms
CAUTION
The shims should be re-installed in their exact positions. The
shims are used to align the front wheels. If the shims are incorrectly installed, a front wheel alignment will be necessary.
See 601 Wheel Alignment.
NOTE
The control arms are not symmetrical. If removing more than
one control arm, marl< their locations during removal.
Fig. 8. Upper ball joint bolts (1) and spring seat bolt (2).
6. If removing the passenger's side control arm, use a
suitable hoist to support the engine. Then remove the
right side engine mount. See Fig. 9. Remove the engine mounting bracket from the engine block and engine support bracket.
CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the inner drive axle rubber boot
when removing the engine mount bracket.
Fig. 10. Upper control arm mounting bolts (arrows) as viewed
from above.
Installation is the reverse of removal. If the bearing
brackets were removed from the control arms, be sure to
reinstall them as shown above in Fig. 5. Be sure to replace all
self-locking nuts and locking washers. Torque all control arm
fasteners to the values given in above in Fig. 2. Tighten the
engine mounts to their final torques with the car on the
ground and engine hoist removed. Check and adjust wheel
alignment if necessary. See 601 Wheel Alignment.
To remove lower control arm
1. Loosen the wheel lug bolts, then raise the front of the
car and support it securely on jack stands designed for
the purpose. Remove the front wheel.
Fig. 9. Right side engine mount being removed. Mount is bolted
in place from above and below. (Hydraulic engine mount
shown, rubber engine mount is similar.)
7. Remove the four bolts holding the control arm to the
body. Note the number of shims under each bearing
bracket. See Fig. 10. Remove the control arm from the
car.
2. Raise the lower control arm slightly using a jack at the
outside of the control arm. Remove the shock absorber
from its lower mount and remove the ball joint from the
control arm. See Fig. 11. Remove the jack.
NOTE
Where applicable, move the anti-roll bar out of the way.