Page 401
Transmission-General
Hydraulic System and ATF Cooler
The ATF pump supplies the system with fluid. A governor
provides automatic control of the upshift and downshift points
by routing fluid to the valve body shift valves. The shift valves
provide hydraulic control of transmission functions by opening
and closing ports. The transmission throttle cable controls a
shift valve for downshifting during hard acceleration.
400-5
specifications for the manual transmission. Table b gives
specifications for the automatic transmission. For more information on checking or changing the fluids, see 1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
All models have an external ATF cooler that is one of two
types: an engine coolant heat exchanger, or an air heat exchanger. See Fig. 6. Additionally, some models have an inline
thermostat. For more information see 472 Automatic Transmission Seals and Gaskets.
Fig. 7.
Identification stamp (arrow) on manual transmission.
Table a. Manual Transmission
and Clutch Specifications
Clutch type
,
Fichtel & Sachs
Clutch diameter'
non-turbo.......................•...... 204 mm (8 in.)
turbo ..................•.............216 mm (8.5 in.)
Transmission oil capacity
3.0 I (3.5 qt.)
Transmission
oil type
Engine oil SAE 10 W 30 or SAE 10 W 40
Clutch/brake master cylinder fluid
DOT 4 brake fluid
• approximately
Table b. Automatic Transmission Specifications
Fig. 6. Automatic with ATF cooler. Cooler shown is engine coolant type,
Type
Borg Wamer 37
ATF volume. ,
8.0 I (8.5 U.S. qts.)
ATF grade ................•..•..... Ford spec M2C-33F/G
Final drive fluid volume ...•............. 1.25 I (1.3 U.S. qts.)
Final drive fluid type ...........•..•......... SAE 10W 30
DIFFERENTIAL AND FINAL DRIVE
The final drive, including differential, is at the rear of the
transmission case. On manual transmissions the final drive is
lubricated by the transmission lubricant. On automatics the final drive has its own lubricant, separate from the ATF.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
TROU BLESHOOTING
This troubleshooting section applies to problems affecting
the manual transmission.
IDENTIFICATION CODES
AND SPECIFICATIONS
Due to different power characteristics and performance requirements, there are minor variations of the basic transmission. On manual transmissions, the different versions are
identified by code letters found stamped in the front case. See
Fig. 7. On automatics, an identification tag is located on the
torque converter housing. See Fig. 6 above. Table a gives
The source of most problems is apparent from the symptoms. For example, difficulty in engaging a gear or imprecise
shifting may be caused by air trapped in the clutch hydraulic
system or it may be a more serious internal transmission problem. Other symptoms, such as clutch slippage, vibration or
shuddering when releasing the clutch may be solved by repairing or replacing the clutch components only.
Noises may be the result of a failure in the gear train, or of
the final drive. What appears to be a transmission oil leak may
DIFFERENTIAL AND FINAL DRIVE
Page 402
Transmission-General
Basic Principles
Table d. Automatic Transmission Troubleshooting
In order for automatic transmission troubleshooting to provide meaningful results, the engine must be in good mechanical condition and properly tuned. See 1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE for engine tuning.
Inspect the transmission for external damage, loose or
missing fasteners, and for any obvious leaks. Many automatic
transmission problems can be traced to an incorrect ATF level, incorrect ATF type, contaminated ATF, or to misadjusted
transmission controls. Also check the final drive fluid level and
type. See 1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE for information on checking and changing the ATF and final drive fluid.
Symptom
Minor automatic transmission problems can often be corrected merely by performing the following tasks. In any event, do
these things before beginning any internal tear down or repair.
Preliminary service
• drain and refill the ATF
• drain and refill the final drive fluid
• clean or replace the ATF filter screen
• check the operation of the shift lever and cable
• check the operation of the transmission throttle cable
Table d is given as a guide for experienced transmission repair specialists. Special tools and techniques are required to
repair major faults. The engine-transmission assembly must
be removed from the car to disassemble the transmission.
Table d. Automatic Transmission Troubleshooting
Symptom
Corrective Action
1. No drive (car
will not move)
a. Check ATF level. See
I
Corrective Action
a. Check throttle cable adjustment.
5. Incorrect upshift
speed
I
See 444
b. Check fluid pressure at idle. See 444
c. Check for binding govemor. See 444
6. Parking pawl
does not hold
a. Check shift cable adjustment. See
7. Noise
a. Check ATF level. See
444
1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
b. Check final drive fluid level. See
1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
Check to see if the ATF is dirty or has a burned odor. A
burned odor indicates overheated fluid. This may be accompanied by burned clutches, as well as friction material which
may be clogging the valve body passages.
c. Check shift cable adjustment. See
444
d. Check for broken engine drive plate.
See 2 ENGINE
8. Fluid leaks
a. Check all sealing surfaces. See 472
b. Check ATF pump seal. See 472
c. Check pinion bearing seal.
Stall Speed Test
This test is used to check for faults in the torque converter
and planetary gear system when there is no other apparent
cause for poor performance and acceleration. The test results
are meaningless if the engine is not running properly. A precise tachometer must be used for the rpm measurements, as
dashboard instruments are not sufficiently accurate.
CAUTION
The stall speed test should be as short as possible and should
never extend beyond 10 seconds maximum. Prolonging the
test may overheat the transmission and damage the seals or
intemal components.
To perform stall speed test
1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
b. Check shift cable adjustment. See
444
c. Check for clogged fluid screen. See
1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
2. Does not shift
properly
400-7
a. Check transmission throttle cable.
See 444
b. Check for binding govemor. See 444
c. Check pipes between governor and
valve body. See 444
3. Slips when
shifting
a. Check throttle cable. See 444
4. Starts in wrong
gear
a. Check govemor for binding. See 444
1. Drive the car to normal operating temperature. On turbo engines, connect a pressure boost gauge and unplug the APC solenoid.
NOTE
For more information on the APC solenoid and its location,
see 2 ENGINE.
2. Connect a tachometer according to the instrument
manufacturer's instructions, so that it can be read from
the driver's seat, then start the engine.
3. Set the parking brake and depress the foot brake firmly
to hold the vehicle stationary.
contmued
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING
Page 403
400-8
Transmission-General
4. Place the selector lever in D.
WARNING
Be certain that no one is in front of or behind the car during the
test.
5. While holding the car stationary with the brakes, floor
the accelerator for no more than 10 seconds. Note the
tachometer readings. The rpm should increase, and
then hold steady. Maximum rpm achieved under these
conditions is the stall speed.
Stall speed specifications depend on the transmission code
numbers found on the torque converter housing. Shown below is a general range for stall speeds and can be used as a
guide. See an authorized Saab dealer for exact stall speed
specifications.
Fig. 8. Main pressure tap on transmission case, located on exhaust
side of engine.
General stall speed specifications
• 2250 to 2700 rpm
• charging pressure* (turbo models only) .... 0.40 bar
4. Depress the foot brake firmly to hold the vehicle stationary.
*APe solenoid valve unplugged
A stall speed that is 300 hundred rpm below the specified
range is probably due to reduced engine performance. A stall
speed that is 800 rpm or more below the specified range indicates a faulty torque converter.
If the stall speed is substantially higher than normal, there is
slippage in the forward clutch or lack of fluid to the torque converter. All of these faults require that the transmission be removed and disassembled for repair.
5. With the gear selector in D, check the main pressure.
Correct test values are given below.
Automatic transmission line pressure
• 4.2 to 4.9 bar (61 to 71 psi) at idle, gear selector in D
6. Put the gear selector in P and shut off the engine. Disconnect the pressure gauge hose and reinstall the plug
for the pressure tap. Torque the plug. Top up the ATF if
necessary.
Pressure Test
A main pressure test will reveal internal leaks, sticking control valves, or other troubles in the hydraulic controls. Engine
idle speed must be correctly adjusted.
Tool required
• ATF pressure
gauge
Saab tool no. 8791 592 or equivalent
To perform pressure test
1. Connect the pressure gauge to the main pressure tap
on the transmission, as shown in Fig. 8.
2. Make sure the engine and transmission are at normal
operating temperature, let the engine idle.
3. Set the parking brake.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING
Pressure tap tightening torque
• 5 to 7 Nm (44 to 62 in-Ib)
Any pressure that is higher or lower than specified usually
indicates a malfunctioning valve body and valves, probably
due to contamination. The valve body can be removed,
cleaned, and reinstalled with the transmission in place by removing the ATF pan and filter screen. See 1 LUBRICATION
AND MAINTENANCE. However, the valve body contains
many precision parts which must be reassembled in their exact locations. Because of the complexity of the valve body assembly, we recommend that these repairs be left to an
authorized Saab dealer or other qualified repair shop.
Low pressure may also indicate a worn ATF pump or internal ATF pump leaks past seals, gaskets, and metal mating
surfaces. These repairs require that the transmission be removed and disassembled.
Page 404
Clutch
411-1
411 Clutch
General
To remove clutch, pressure plate,
release bearing and slave cylinder
To install clutch, pressure plate,
release bearing and slave cylinder
411-1
Clutch, Pressure Plate, Release Bearing
411-1
and Slave Cylinder
411-1
411-3
GENERAL
The clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing can all be
serviced without removing the engine or transmission. In addition, the clutch slave cylinder and engine flywheel can be
serviced after removing the clutch and pressure plate. See 2
ENGINE for information on removing the flywheel.
The clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and release
bearing are located behind a plastic cover at the front of the
engine. A splined input shaft transmits engine power from the
clutch disc to the primary chainwheel. The clutch is non-adjustable and is actuated by the hydraulic slave cylinder. Brake
fluid from the brake fluid reservoir supplies the clutch master
cylinder.
----87108-54642
I
Fig. 1. Spacer ring (Saab tool no. 87 91 618) to disengage pressure
plate.
CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE, RELEASE
BEARING AND SLAVE CVLINDER
IIII
The clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and slave cylinder are removed and installed as a unit. This is because there
is little clearance in the flywheel housing.
To remove clutch, pressure plate, release
bearing and slave cylinder
Fig. 2. Lever arm (Saab tool no. 8394033) to hold pressure plate fingers if clutch hydraulic system is not working.
Tools required
• spacer ring
• lever arm (optional)
Saab tool no. 8791 618
and lor 83 90 023
Saab tool no. 8394033
NOTE
Two different clutch assemblies were installed on the cars
covered by this manual. Most early cars (approximately 1988
and earlier models) were equipped with a smaller clutch that
required a different spacer ring (Saab tool no. 8390023) for
its removal. All newer cars and all clutch replacement parts
use a larger spacer ring (Saab tool no. 8791 618). Therefore,
early cars still equipped with the original smaller clutch will
need both special tools to replace the clutch. See an authorized Saab dealer for more information.
1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove the
hood. Remove the air intake rubber bellows. On turbo
models, remove the turbo pipes above the clutch cover.
2. Remove the left radiator fan as described in 261 Radiator and Cooling System.
3. Remove the plastic clutch cover. See Fig. 3.
CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLA TE, RELEASE BEARING AND SLAVE CYLINDER
Page 405
411-2
Clutch
5. Remove the spring clip and cover as shown in Fig. 5.
Unscrew the plastic propeller from the input shaft.
CAUTION
The plastic propeller circulates oil to the bearing. Failure to reinstall the propeller after completing repairs may cause bearing seizure.
Fig. 3. Plastic cover being removed.
4. Have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal. Insert
the special spacer ring under the fingers of the pressure plate. See Fig. 4. Release the pedal.
NOTE
If the Saab tool no. 8791 618 or tool no. 8390023 is not available, a length of sparkplug wire can be used under the fingers
of the pressure plate.
Fig. 5. Spring clip and cover to be removed to withdraw input
shaft.
6. Thread an 8 mm bolt with flat washer into the front of
the clutch input shaft. Using a pry bar, slide the clutch
input shaft out by levering against the flat washer. See
Fig. 6.
CAUTION
Be careful not to hit the radiator or fan with the pry bar or input
shaft.
Fig. 4. Spacer being inserted between fingers and housing of
pressure plate.
NOTE
• Inserting the spacer creates the necessary clearance to remove the pressure plate, clutch, release bearing, and slave
cylinder from the flywheel housing.
• If a helper is not available, wedge a long stick against the
clutch pedal and the seal.
• If the clutch hydraulic system doesn't work, the special Saab
tool no. 8394033 will be required to compress the pressure
plate fingers in order to install the spacer ring.
Fig. 6. Ciutch input shaft being pried out using special tool (Saab
tool no, 8394033).
CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLA TE, RELEASE BEARING AND SLAVE CYLINDER
Page 406
Clutch
411-3
NOTE
NOTE
The shaft does not need to be fully removed.
Inspect for oil leakage at the rear of the transmission chain
housing, directly below the clutch release bearing, If oil is
present on the housing, it may be leaking past the chain tensioner bolts, Because oil will quickly ruin a new clutch disc, it
is recommended that the oil leak be corrected by removing the
tensioner bolts and reinstalling them using a thread sealer.
Accessing the bolts requires supporting the engine/transmission assembly and removing the front engine mount and the
front transmission chain cover, Be sure to use a new gasket
at the front chain cover,
7. Remove the three internal hex-head screws for the
slave cylinder. See Fig.7.
To install clutch, pressure plate,
release bearing and slave cylinder
1. Working at the bench, use a press and cylinder of the
correct diameter to depress the pressure plate fingers
uniformly so the spacer ring can be installed.
NOTE
The diameter of the cylinder used to compress the pressure
plate fingers should be equivalent to the diameter of the release bearing contact area,
Fig. 7. Slave cylinder screws being removed,
NOTE
• The three intemal hex-head screws can be difficult to loosen, Clean the head of the screw so the wrench will grip tightly,
• Do not disconnect the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder,
2, Lubricate the input shaft splines with molybdenum disulfide grease. Assemble the pressure plate, clutch, release bearing, and slave cylinder in the proper order.
3. Install the pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing,
and slave cylinder into the flywheel housing. See Fig. 8.
8. Remove the bolts holding the pressure plate assembly
to the flywheel. Remove as a unit, the pressure plate,
clutch disc, release bearing, and slave cylinder.
CAUTION
Do not step on the clutch pedal while the slave cylinder is removed,
9. Inspect the flywheel and pressure plate assembly for
burn marks or scoring. Inspect the input shaft bearing
in the flywheel and replace if necessary. See 2 ENGINE for more information.
Note which side of the clutch disc faces the flywheel as a
guide to reassembly. Carefully inspect the clutch input shaft
seal located at the transmission case surface. If leaking, replace the seal using an appropriate seal driver. Apply grease
to the seal lip before installing the shaft.
Fig. 8. Pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing with slave
cylinder being installed into flywheel housing, Also shown
is spacer ring (arrow),
CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLA TE, RELEASE BEARING AND SLA VE CYLINDER
Page 407
411-4
Clutch
4. Hand tighten two of the pressure plate bolts to hold the
assembly in place. Slide the input shaft into engagement with the clutch splines, then tap the shaft into the
case with a plastic hammer until it bottoms out. See
Fig. 9.
CAUTION
Only press the pedal enough to remove the spacer. Otherwise
the slave cylinder seal may be damaged.
9. Push the plastic sleeve toward the flywheel while
someone holds the clutch pedal down. See Fig. 10. Finally, check the clutch pedal to make sure it doesn't
bind.
NOTE
The plastic shield will automatically position itself when the
clutch pedal is released.
Fig. 9.
Input shaft being tapped into case, Snap ring will lock
shaft in the case.
5. Install the three slave cylinder screws using thread
sealing compound.
Tightening torque
• slave cylinder
mounting screws ..... 6 to 14 Nm (53 to 124 in-Ib)
Fig. 10. Plastic sleeve being pushed toward flywheel while clutch
pedal is held down.
6. Install the plastic propeller, input shaft cover and spring
clip.
7. Install and tighten the remaining pressure plate bolts.
10. Reinstall the plastic cover, the hood, the air intake rubber bellows, and the turbo pipes (where applicable).
8. Remove the spacer ring from the pressure plate while
a helper depresses the clutch pedal. If the pedal is
spongy the system needs to be bled, see 412 Clutch
Control.
CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLA TE, RELEASE BEARING AND SLAVE CYLINDER
Page 408
Clutch Control
412-1
412 Clutch Control
General
To replace clutch master cylinder
412-1
412-1
GENERAL
The clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder can be serviced without removing the engine or transmission. However,
the clutch slave cylinder can only be removed together with
the pressure plate assembly, clutch disc, and release bearing.
See 411 Clutch for information on removing these components.
To bleed clutch master and slave cylinders ... 412-2
NOTE
On cars equipped with ABS, it may be necessary to remove
the altemator belt tensioner and move the altemator to one
side to reach the master cylinder.
The clutch is non-adjustable. Typical problems with the
clutch hydraulic system are fluid leaks, and air trapped in the
system that creates a spongy feel to the clutch pedal. Fluid
leaks are usually apparent around the component. Internal
leakage past a seal can occur which results in a loss of pressure when the pedal is pushed.
To replace clutch master cylinder
1. Working in the engine compartment, pinch off the fluid
supply hose from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch
master cylinder. See Fig. 1.
Fig. 2. Clutch master cylinder hydraulic pipe being removed.
Master cylinder is located at A.
3. Inside the car, remove the left hand footwell air duct.
See Fig. 3. Remove the clevis pin and the master cylinder self-locking mounting nuts. See Fig. 4.
WARNING
Always replace self-locking nuts with new ones.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Bleed the system
as described below. Replenish the fluid in the brake
master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Fig. 1. Ruid reservoir B for clutch master cylinder and master cylinder A. Arrow shows fluid supply hose.
NOTE
2. Remove the hydraulic pipe from the master cylinder.
See Fig. 2. Remove the clip that holds the pipe to the
body.
Do not allow the reservoir to empty, otherwise the entire system will need to be bled after the reservoir is refilled.
CAUTION
Brake fluid can damage paint and bodywork. Immediately
rinse any spills with water.
GENERAL
:.:.:.:.;.;.;: ....;..::.::::;:
Page 409
412-2
Clutch Control
recommends using a coolant system pressure tester and an
adaptor that screws onto the brake fluid reservoir. A brake
system pressure bleeding kit can also be used for this procedure. These tools and kits are available from automotive tool
manufacturers and supply stores.
1. Place a 6 mm. (1/4 in.) inside diameter hose on the
slave cylinder bleeder nipple. See Fig. 5. Put the other
end of the hose in a container.
Fig. 3.
Left hand footwell air duct being removed,
87126-S4/1516
Fig. 5. Slave cylinder bleeder nipple (arrow),
2. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
Place the cooling system pressure tester on the master cylinder.
3. Open the bleeder nipple 1/2 of a turn.
4, Slowly pump up the tester only once or twice until fluid
flows out of hose. Allow the fluid to flow until it is free of
bubbles.
CAUTION
Too much pressure applied to the system will damage the
seals.
Fig. 4. Clevis pin (arrow) and clutch master cylinder self-locking
nuts A to be removed, Master cylinder is removed from
engine compartment.
5. Shut off the bleeder nipple, recheck the fluid level and
check the clutch pedal operation.
To bleed clutch master and slave cylinders
NOTE
Tool required
• cooling system pressure tester with cap or equivalent
Bleeding the clutch master cylinder requires that the brake
fluid reservoir be pressurized using special equipment. Saab
GENERAL
Do not allow the reservoir to empty, otherwise the entire system will need to be bled after the reservoir is refilled.
Page 410
Manual Transmission Control
432-1
432 Manual Transmission Control
Manual Transmission Control
To remove gear lever housing
To remove ignition lock barrel.
To install ignition lock barrel
To remove gear selector rod
To disassemble gear shift lever
,
432-1
432-1
432-2
432-3
432-3
432-3
MANUAL TRANSMISSION CONTROL
This section covers repair and adjustment of the gear lever
and gear selector rod. Also covered is replacement of the ignition lock cylinder and switch. Many of the fasteners used in the
console area are Torx® T25 fasteners. Plan to have this size
wrench on hand before performing any work. Also, before doing any adjustments, check the all engine mounts to be sure
they are tight and not broken.
To adjust gear shift control
432-4
(up to mid 1986)
To adjust gear shift control (from mid 1986) .. 432-5
To adjust centering of
gear shift lever in neutral gate
432-6
(up to mid 1986 only)
3. Remove the screws under the rear ashtray. See Fig. 2.
Disconnect the wires to the interior light switch and remove the console.
NOTE
After removing all console screws, insert the key and disengage reverse gear to help in removing the console.
To remove gear lever housing
Tool required
• gear lever housing
nut wrench
I
Saab tool no. 8790 370
1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable and remove
the driver's seat. Pull up the handbrake, engage reverse and remove the key.
2. Remove the gear shift bellows, and the two front console screws. See Fig. 1.
Fig. 2. Console rear screws (arrows) being removed.
4. Using the special Saab wrench, remove the gear lever
housing nuts. See Fig. 3. Label and remove the wires
to the ignition switch and reverse switch.
NOTE
• If replacing just the ignition switch, remove the cover plate
screws shown in Fig. 4 then remove the two ignition switch
screws shown in Fig. 5.
• An impact driver will help remove stuck screws.
Fig. 1. Console front screws (arrows) being removed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION CONTROL