Page 121
Camshaft Timing Chain
215-5
Tightening torque
Tightening torques
• camshaft sprocket to camshaft ..... 63 Nm (47 ft-Ib)
• timing chain cover to engine block
and cylinder head
20 Nm (15 ft-Ib)
8 Nm (71 in-Ib)
• oil pump to timing chain cover
• crankshaft pulley to crankshaft
1985-1990
190Nm(140ft-lb)
1991 and later
175 Nm (129 ft-Ib)
19. Install the valve cover as described in 214 Cylinder
Head and Valve Mechanism.
Tightening torque
• valve cover to cylinder head
Fig. 10. Camshaft sprocket bolt being tightened,
18. Install the camshaft timing chain cover, the oil pump,
and crankshaft sprocket.
CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the crankshaft oil seal when installing the oil pump.
15 Nm (11 ft-Ib)
20. Install the alternator as described in 321 Alternator
and Charging System.
Tightening torques
• all other fasteners
M5 bolt
M6 bolt
M8 bolt
M10 bolt
5 Nm (44 in-Ib)
10 Nm (89 in-Ib)
20 Nm (15 ft-Ib)
40 Nm (30 ft-Ib)
CAMSHAFT TIMING CHAIN
Page 122
-Crankshaft
216-1
2:16 Crankshlaft
Crankshaft
To inspect crankshaft
Flywheel and Drive Plate
216-1
216-1
To replace crankshaft oil seal
at timing chain end
216-3
Cylinder Block Oil Seals
216-3
To replace crankshaft oil seal at flywheel end
(cars with manual transmission only)
216-3
CRANKSHAFT
Crankshaft main bearing caps and used bearing shells
should only be installed in their original positions. Label all
parts carefully.
NOTE
Crankshaft removal and installation is part of the engine disassembly procedure covered in 210 Engine Disassembly
and Assembly.
216-4
TABLES
a. Crankshaft Main Journal
and Crankpin Diameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 216-2
3. Using a dial indicator, measure the crankshaft end float
by gently levering the crankshaft back and forth using
a screwdriver. See Fig. 2.
Crankshaft
• end float allowable
0.08-0.28 mm
(0.003-0.011 in.)
To inspect crankshaft
1. Thoroughly clean the removed crankshaft, the crankshaft bearings, and the bearing surfaces in the cylinder
block. Make all parts being measured are dry and oilfree.
2. Carefully place the upper bearing shells in the cylinder
block and set the crankshaft into the block. Install the
center thrust washers. See Fig. 1.
Fig. 2. Crankshaft end float being checked with dial indicator (arrow). Move the crankshaft back and forth with screwdriver to obtain readings.
4. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block and
place the crankshaft in two V-blocks. Using a dial indicator at the center main journal, measure the crankshaft radial play by rolling the crankshaft in the Vblocks.
Fig. 1. Crankshaft thrust washers being installed.
Crankshaft radial play (runout)
• maximum allowable
0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
CRANKSHAFT
Page 123
Crankshaft
216-2
5. Measure the main journal and crankpin diameters using a micrometer. Make the measurements at several
points to check for out-of-roundness. Journal diameters are listed in Table a.
Crankshaft journal out-of-round
• maximum allowable
0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Table a. Crankshaft Main Journal
and Crankpin Diameters
Main journals
diameter mm (in)
standard
57.981-58.000 (2.2827-2.2835)
first undersize
57.731-57.750 (2.2729-2.2736)
second undersize
57.481-57.500 (2.2630-2.2638)
third undersize
57.237-57.250 (2.2534-2.2539)
fourth undersize
56.987-57 .000 (2.2436-2.2441)
Crankpin
Fig. 3. Plastigage correctly positioned on crankshaft journal.
8. Measure the strip of plastigage at the widest point. Repeat the procedure for the remaining main bearings.
diameter mm (in)
standard
51.981-52.000 (2.Q465-2.0472)
Crankshaft main bearing
first undersize
51.731-51.750 (2.0367-2.0374)
• oil clearance ...0.020-0.062 mm (0.0008-0.0024 in.)
second undersize
51.481-51.500 (2.0268-2.0276)
third undersize
51.237-51.250 (2.0172-2.0177)
fourth undersize
50.987-51.000 (2.0074-2.0079)
NOTE
The crankshaft can be ground down to one undersize without
affecting its hardened surface. If any more material needs to
be removed, the crankshaft should be rehardened using a
"Tenifer" hardening treatment. Contact your authorized Saab
dealer for information on crankshaft hardening and replacement crankshafts.
6. Measure the main bearing oil clearances by placing the
bearing shells and the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
7. Place a strip of plastigage about 6mm (1/4 in.) to one
side of the journal's center-line. See Fig. 3. Install the
bearing cap, tighten the bolts and then remove the cap.
9. To measure the big-end oil clearances, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies into their respective
cylinders. Rotate the crankshaft so that the piston is at
approximately 60° BTDC. Place a strip of plastigage
about 6mm (1/4 in.) to one side of the crankpin's center-line as shown above. Install the connecting rod cap,
tighten the nuts and then remove the cap.
Tightening torque
• connecting rod cap
to connecting rod
55 Nm (41 ft-Ib)
10. Measure the strip of plastigage at the widest point. Repeat the procedure for the remaining big-end bearings.
Connecting rod big-end bearing
• oil clearance ...0.026-0.062 mm (0.0010-0.0024 in.)
NOTE
Plastigage comes in three thicknesses. Use the green type
(PG-l) to make the measurements described here. Keep the
crankshaft stationary when measuring oil clearances.
Tightening torque
• main bearing caps
to cylinder block
CRANKSHAFT
110 Nm (81 ft-Ib)
Replacement bearing shells come in the standard size and
four undersizes. Standard, first undersize, and second undersize shells are available in two thicknesses and are marked
with a colored paint dot code, indicating the size and thickness
classification.
Page 124
Crankshaft
216-3
Crankshaft Bearing Shell Color Codes
• main and big-end bearing shells
standard
thin-red
thick-blue
first undersize
thin-yellow.
th ick-green
second undersize
thin-white
thick-brown
The proper way of fitting bearing shells is as follows: Begin
by fitting two thin shells and measure the oil clearance using
plastigage as described above. If the clearance is too big, attempt to reduce it by combining a thick and thin shell or two
thick shells. If the clearance is still too large with two thick
shells, the crankshaft will have to be machined to accept undersized bearing shells. See Table a above.
FLYWHEEL AND DRIVE PLATE
Replacement of the flywheel or the drive plate are similar operations. When removing the mounting bolts, hold the ring gear
stationary using a holding fixture such as Saab tool no 83 92
987. The flywheel or driveplate should be inspected for wear
and excessive run out using a dial indicator. Replace the driveplate or flywheel if it is warped, cracked, or deeply scored.
NOTE
On cars with automatic transmission, the oil seal at the drive
plate end of the engine can only be replaced after removing the
transmission torque converter. Removing the torque converter
requires that the transmission be separated from the engine as
described in 201 Engine Removal and Installation.
To replace crankshaft oil seal at flywheel end
(cars with manual transmission only)
1. Remove the clutch and pressure plate as described in
411 Clutch.
NOTE
Saab does not list wear specifications for the flywheel or drive
plate.
Before installing the flywheel, check the transmission clutch
shaft bearing and replace it if there is any play or if it does not
roll smoothly. See Fig. 4.
Installation of the flywheel and the drive plate is the reverse
of removal. Be sure all old thread sealer is cleaned from the
bolts and their holes. Use a thread sealer when reinstalling the
bolts and tighten them in a alternating pattern.
2. While holding the flywheel stationary, remove the flywheel mounting bolts and remove the flywheel.
NOTE
The flywheel can be held stationary using a locking tool such
as Saab tool no. 83 92 987.
3. Carefully pry out the old oil seal using a screwdriver.
4. Lubricate the new seal with oil. Fit the new seal so that
the spring ring side of the seal is towards the crankshaft.
Tightening torques
• flywheel to crankshaft
17 mm bolt head
19 mm bolt head
Fig. 4. Clutch shaft bearing in flywheel being removed. Special
drift (Saab tool no, 83 91 997) shown.
60 Nm (44 ft-Ib)
85 Nm (63 ft-Ib)
5. Using a suitable seal driver install the seal. See Fig. 5.
NOTE
CYLINDER BLOCK OIL SEALS
The cylinder block oil seal(s) at the timing chain end of the
engine can be replaced with the engine removed or installed.
On cars with manual transmission, the oil seal at the flywheel
end of the engine can be replaced with the engine installed,
but the clutch and flywheel must first be removed.
The old seal was originally installed flush to the cover surface.
The new seal should be installed slightly deeper so that it
does not ride on the same area of the shaft. This will allow for
a good seal despite any wear.
FL WVHEEL AND DRIVE PLA TE
Page 125
216-4
Crankshaft
Fig. 5. Crankshaft oil seal at flywheel end of engine being installed. (Saab special tool no. 83 92 540 shown).
Fig. 7. Crankshaft oil seal at timing chain end of engine being removed.
To replace crankshaft oil seal
at timing chain end
1. If necessary, remove the alternator and NC V-belts as
described 1 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
2. While holding the flywheel stationary, remove the
crankshaft pulley mounting bolt and the pulley with its
woodruff key. See Fig. 6.
Fig. 8. Crankshaft oil seal at timing chain end of engine being installed using sleeve A (Saab tool no 8394 215) and B
wrench (Saab tool no. 83 92185),
NOTE
The old seal was originally installed flush to the cover surface.
The new seal should be installed slightly deeper so that it
does not ride on the same area of the shafl. This will allow for
a good seal despite any wear.
Fig. 6. Crankshaft pulley being removed.
3. Pry out the old oil seal using a screwdriver. See Fig. 7.
4. Lubricate the new seal with oil. Fit the new seal and install it using the special sleeve (Saab tool no. 83 94
215), the pulley center bolt, and special wrench (Saab
tool no. 33 92 185). See Fig. 8.
CYLINDER BLOCK OIL SEALS
5. Install the crankshaft pulley with its woodruff key. Install and tension the engine V-bens as described in 1
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
Tightening torque
• Crankshaft pulley to crankshaft
1985-1990
1991 and later
190Nm(140ft-lb)
175 Nm (129 ft-Ib)
Page 126
Lubrication System
220-1
220 Lubrication System
General.
220-1
Oil Pump and Oil Pickup Tube
220-1
220-1
220-3
To remove, inspect, and install oil pump
Oil Pump Pickup Tube
Testing Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure Relief Valve
,
Oil Pressure Warning Circuit
To test oil pressure warning system
220-4
" .. , .220-4
220-5
220-5
Oil Cooler (Turbo models only)
Oil Pressure Warning Systems ..... 220-4
To remove oil cooler
220-5
220-5
::rli!
:..::::c::>.::::::
GENERAL
This section covers inspection and repair of the lubrication
system, which includes the oil pump, the oil pressure warning
system, and the oil cooler.
Oil pressure is generated by a gear-type pump mounted externally to the front of the cylinder block. The pump is driven
directly by the crankshaft. When the engine is running, oil is
drawn from the oil pickup tube in the oil sump and circulated
through the engine, the turbocharger and the oil cooler (where
applicable).See Fig. 1.
All engines covered by this manual have an oil pressure
warning system that warns the driver of insufficient oil pressure immediately after startup. Other safety features include a
filter bypass, to guard against bursting the filter due to over
pressure, and an oil pump pressure relief valve to prevent excessive system pressure.
OIL PUMP AND OIL PICKUP TUBE
There is normally no need to remove the oil pump or pickup
tube unless oil pressure is inadequate. Check the oil pressure
as described below under Oil Pressure Warning Systems.
The oil pump can be removed with the engine installed or
removed. Removal of the oil pickup tube requires that the engine be removed and separated from the transmission.
To remove, inspect, and install oil pump
1. Remove the V-belts from the crankshaft pulley and
drain the engine oil as described in 1 LUBRICATION
AND MAINTENANCE.
2. While holding the flywheel steady, remove the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt and remove the pulley from
the crankshaft. See Fig. 2.
Fig. 1. Schematic of lubrication system,
The oil sump is an integral part of the transmission housing,
although the engine oil and the transmission oil are separated
from each other.
NOTE
Immobilize the crankshaft by locking the flywheel using a locking tool, such as Saab special tool no. 83 92 987.
3. Thoroughly clean the area around the oil pump.
NOTE
Oil and oil filter change are covered in 1 LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE.
OIL PUMP AND OIL PICKUP TUBE
Page 127
220-2
Lubrication System
Fig. 4. Oil pump outer gear correctly Installed with punch mark facing up (arrow).
Fig. 2. Crankshaft sprocket mounting bolt being removed.
4. Remove the oil pump mounting bolts and remove the
pump. See Fig. 3.
7. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the
end float between the pump body and the gear wheel.
See Fig. 5.
NOTE
Before removing the pump, inspect for any signs of oil around
the crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump housing. If the seal is
leaking, it should be replaced at this time as described in 216
Crankshaft .
-~I
Fig. 5. Oil pump being checked for wear (end-float),
Oil pump end float
• 0.03-0.08 mm (0.0012-0.0031 in.)
I
Fig. 3. Oil pump being removed.
5. Disassemble and clean the oil pump gears. Inspect the
inside of the oil pump housing for scoring or wear. Inspect the oil pump O-ring and the crankshaft seal. Replace any worn or faulty parts
6. Reassemble the pump making sure the small punch
mark in the outer gear is facing up. See Fig. 4.
OIL PUMP AND OIL PICKUP TUBE
8. Fit the O-ring in the oil pump groove. Lubricate the
crankshaft oil seal and the pump gears with engine oil.
9. Pull the inner gear out of the pump slightly and install
the pump, making sure that the dog on pump gear engages the slot on the crankshaft hub. Push the pump
on while aligning the dowel. See Fig. 6.
Page 128
Lubrication System
220-3
Tightening torques
• oil pump to timing chain cover
• crankshaft pulley to crankshaft
1985-1990
__
1991 and later
8 Nm (71 in-Ib)
190 Nm (140 ft-Ib)
175 Nm (129 ft-Ib)
11. Remove the oil filter housing from the cylinder block.
Then fill the oil pump pressure cavity with clean engine
oil to prime the pump. See Fig. 8.
CAUTION
The oil pump must be primed any time it is removed.
Fig. 6.
Oil pump being installed, Pull gear out of housing to align
dog on gear with slot on crankshaft hub,
NOTE
The oil pump locating dowel aids in centering the pump to the
crankshaft. Some models may not be equipped with the dowel. If the dowel is missing, a special tool (Saab tool no. 8393
589) is available to center the pump and protect the oil seal
during oil pump installation, See Fig. 7,
Rg. 8. Oil pump being primed through oil pump pressure cavity.
67276-2/1519
Fig. 7.
Saab special tool installed in oil pump prior to pump installation.
10. Install and tighten the pump mounting bolts in an alternating pattern. Carefully install the crankshaft pulley
and tighten the mounting bolt. Install the V-belts.
CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the crankshaft oil seal when installing the crankshaft pulley. Thoroughly clean and oil the pulley
flange before installation.
12. Using a new gasket, install the filter housing and refill
the engine with oil.
Oil Pump Pickup Tube
The oil pickup tube is mounted to bottom of the engine
block. Because the oil sump is an integral part of the transmission case, the engine needs to be removed and the transmission separated from the engine to reach the pickup tube. See
201 Engine Removal and Installation for these procedures.
CAUTION
Different oil pickup tubes are used depending on the type of
transmission installed. Cars with manual transmission use a
longer tube than cars with automatic transmission. ·If the
wrong tube is installed, inadequate lubrication and engine
damage can result.
OIL PUMP AND OIL PICKUP TUBE
Page 129
220-4
Lubrication System
OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEMS
When diagnosing the cause of an illuminated oil pressure
warning light, certain basic checks should be made before assuming that engine damage has occurred.
NOTE
For the most accurate pressure readings, change the oil and
the oil filter before making the pressure test.
CAUTION
If the oil pressure warning indicator stays on after the engine
is started, or flashes on while driving, always assume that low
oil pressure is the cause.
First, check that the warning light electrical circuit is functioning correctly by making the quick checks described below
in Oil Pressure Warning Circuit. Check that the engine oil
level and oil type is correct.
Second, if the engine has been run for any length of time
with the warning light on, it should be determined if any engine
damaged has occurred. If abnormal noises are heard with engine running, turn the engine off and remove the valve cover
and the camshaft bearing cap from the no. 4 cylinder (cylinder
closest to the radiator). This is the cylinder farthest from the oil
pump. Inspect the bearings surface for damage. If the surfaces are badly worn, chances are that other parts of the engine
are also damaged.
Third, check the oil pressure as described below. If the oil
pressure is below the specification listed, remove and clean
the oil pressure relief valve (also described below). Then
prime the oil system (see Fig. 8 above) and reinstall the oil
pressure relief valve. Recheck the oil pressure and the oil
pressure warning light.
NOTE
Occasionally, a small particle of metal or other contaminant
may become lodged in the valve, causing it to stick open.
In some cases when the valve is removed for inspection, the
oil that runs out of the bore carries the contaminants away,
leaving the impression that the valve was not the cause of the
low pressure. Do not disassemble the engine until first cleaning the pressure relief valve. If this corrects the problem, be
sure to change the oil and the filter to remove any additional
debris.
Testing Oil PrelSSUre
Test the oil pressure by removing the pressure switch and
installing a pressure gauge. See Fig. 9. Run the engine just
long enough to get an accurate reading. If testing shows that
the oil pressure is too low or too high, either the oil pump is
worn or faulty, the relief valve is stuck, or the engine is severely worn. If the pressure is as specified and the warning light
still stays on, check the light's electrical circuit as described
below in Oil Pressure Waring Circuit.
OIL PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEMS
Fig. 9. Oil pressure switch (arrow).
Lubrication system test pressures
• oil pressure
at 2000 rpm,
engine temp. 80°C (176°F) .... at least 2.7 (39 psi)
• oil pressure relief valve
opening pressure
3.6-5.2 bar (52-75 psi)
• warning light
on pressure
below 0.3-0.5 bar (4.4-7.2 psi)
Tightening torque
• oil pressure switch
(1/4"-18 NPTF}
10 Nm (89 in-Ib)
Oil Pressure Relief Valve
The oil pressure relief valve is located in the side of the
camshaft timing chain cover. See Fig. 10. The valve is designed to open and route oil back to the inlet side of the oil
pump when the oil pressure exceeds a predetermined level. If
the pressure is abnormally high or low, remove and clean the
valve. Change the oil and the oil filter and recheck the oil pressure. If the pressure is still low, remove and inspect the oil
pump as described above in Oil Pump and Oil Pickup Tube.
NOTE
Low oil pressure can also be caused by general engine wear,
such as worn engine bearings on a high-mileage car.
Page 130
Lubrication System
220-5
NOTE
If the warning light comes on, check the switch as described
in the next step. If the warning light does not come on, the wiring circuit to the dash light or the light itself is faulty.
3. To test the switch, connect an ohmmeter between the
switch terminal and ground. With the engine off, there
should be continuity. With the engine running there
should be no continuity. If any faults are found, the
switch is faulty and should be replaced.
Tightening torque
Fig. 10. Oil pressure relief valve (arrow),
• oil pressure switch to oil filter housing
small (1/4"-18 NPTF)
10 Nm (89 in-Ib)
large (M14X1.5)
30 l\Jm (22 ft-Ib)
Oil Pressure Warning Circuit
CAUTION
The oil pressure warning electrical circuit consists of an oil
pressure switch mounted in the oil circuit and an instrument
panel warning light. When the ignition switch is turned on, a
warning light comes on. When the engine is started and the oil
pressure rises, the oil pressure switch opens and the warning
light goes out. If the light doesn't come on at all or stays on all
the time, check to make sure the oil level and the oil pressure
are correct before doing the tests listed below.
NOTE
For infonnation on center console gauges (oil pressure and oil
temperature gauges), see 3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
To test oil pressure warning system
1. Turn the ignition switch on. The warning light on the instrument panel should light up. Remove the wire from
the oil pressure switch (See Fig. 9 above). The light
should go out.
NOTE
If the light does not go out, the wiring to the switch is most likely shorted to ground between the tenninal and the warning
light. See 3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM for electrical wiring troubleshooting infonnation.
2. If the warning light does not light when the ignition is
on, remove the terminal from the oil pressure switch
and ground the wire to a clean metal surface.
If the oil pressure switch is not faulty and the light remains on
while the engine is running, the oil pressure may be dangerously low. Do not operate the engine until the problem is corrected. The engine may be severely damaged.
OIL COOLER (TURBO MODELS ONLY)
Turbocharged engines uses an oil-to-air cooler to aid in engine oil cooling. A thermostat in the oil filter housing prevents
oil flow to the cooler until the oil temperature reaches 16?OF
(75°C).
The engine oil cooler is fitted beneath the front left-hand
head light. The oil cooler thermostat is screwed into the side of
the oil filter housing. Fig. 11 shows the oil cooler and its hoses.
To remove oi I cooler
1. Remove the left-hand turn signal/parking light assembly.
2. Remove the baffle plate from behind the light assembly.
3. Remove the left-hand headlight.
4. Working from below, remove the spoiler grille from beneath the car.
5. Working from in the engine compartment, remove the
oil cooler mounting nut from the radiator member. See
Fig. 12.
OIL COOLER (TURBO MODELS ONLY)