Page 531
REAR SHO
CK ABSORBER, SAAB 95 2. Disconnect the shock absorber from the body and
the rear axle.
3. Remove the shock absorber, collecting the washers
and rubber items.
Reassembly
Fit new rubber items in place of any defective ones. A|-
ways use genuine replacement parts. Refit the shock ab-
=. i cee mm « ey “2 sorber and its connecting parts, smear the pin threads
——. = = 4 Stes with grease and tighten the nuts hard. The connecting
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER, SAAB 95 parts belonging to the shock absorber are shown in the
figure below.
Removal
Topping up shock absorbers
1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
P cba The rear shock absorbers on the Saab 95 must be in-
spected every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) and topped up
as necessary with shock absorber fluid of good quality.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER WITH CONNECTING PARTS, SAAB 95
1. Bracket 5. Washer
2. Shock absorber 6. Lock washer
3. Shock absorber link 7. Nut
4. Rubber bushing 8. Spacer tube
SAAB
Febr 1977
761—2
Page 532
agar SHOCK ABSORBER, SAAB 96
Removal
1, Jack UP the car and remove the wheel,
9. Disconnect the shock absorber from its upper and
lower brackets. n
3, Remove the shock absorber, collecting the wash
and rubber items. ers
Reassembly
Install rub
er. Make “a ag and washers, Fit the shock absorb-
Nection are bang rubber bushings in the upper con-
flange into the hol y located, then ease the upper bushing
er is properly me / i body so that the shock absorb-
spect may result i ered in the hole. Negligence in this re-
grease before DOS, Smear the pin threads with
screwing on the nuts. Tighten the nuts hard.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
1. Nuts
2. Washer
3. Rubber bushings
4. Washer
5. Spring washer
AND CONNECTING PARTS, SAAB 96
Febr 1977 SAAB 761~3
Page 533
Se a ee
STABILIZER
REPLACEMENT
1, Jack up the front part of the car and remove both
front wheels, 3.
2.
Remove the stabilizer bar by disconnecting its mount-
ing brackets from the body. The nuts are accessible 4.
from inside the engine compartment. Detach the bar
from both body, end bearings and brackets, then re-
move the bar towards the right. 5.
. Pass the new stabilizer bar in from the right and se-
cure it to the body with its bearings.
. Refit the two end bearings to the control arms. 6.
5. Refit the wheels and lower the car.
=
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8.
REPLACEMENT OF RUBBER BUSHINGS 9.
10.
If renewal of the rubber bushings on the stabilizer bar is
called for, this is best done without removing the bar it-
self from the car,
11.
5
STABILIZER BAR AND BEARINGS
1, Bracket, control arm
2. Rubber bushing
3. Rubber bushing
4. Bracket, body
5, Stabilizer bar
762-1
Jack up the front part of the car and remove both
front wheels.
Back off and remove the two bolts on either side
that hold the ball joints and stabilizer bar brackets
to the lower control arm.
Detach the stabilizer bar brackets from the contro}
arms.
Turn the stabilizer bar downwards and remove its
two end bearings, in which the rubber bushings are
pressed,
Back off the nuts and remove one stabilizer bar
mounting bracket from the body. These nuts are
accessible from inside the engine compartment.
Fit a new bushing in the mounting bracket and re-
fit the bracket.
Repeat the procedure according to points 5 and 6
above with the opposite mounting bracket.
Fit new rubber bushings in both end bearings.
Refit the two end bearings on the stabilizer bar.
Reconnect the stabilizer bar end bearings and bal
joints to the lower control arms and tighten up the
bolts. Do not forget the stiffener on the rear of the
control arm.
Refit the wheels and lower the car.
Nov 1977
Page 534
WHEELS
FITTING OF WHEELS
From the viewpoints of comfort and safety, it is impor.
tant that the wheels be fitted correctly, The following
procedure is recommended:
1. Check the taper and threads of the bolts. Bolts which
stick oF which are worn should be replaced,
9, Mount the wheel on the hub and tighten the bolts suffi-
ciently to centre the wheel.
3, Tighten the bolts to a torque of 79—98 Nm (8—10 kpm)
SS
N.B.
Pneumatic nut tighteners may be used only in com-
bination with a torque sleeve. Bolts which have been
overtightened can damage the wheel and make it im-
possible for the motorist to remove them in the event
of a puncture.
ADJUSTING AND REPAIRING
Wheels may be damaged in collisions or if the car runs
off the road or is driven on underinflated tires. As the
tubeless tires seal direct against the wheel rims, air will
leak out if the rim is deformed or otherwise damaged. If
a leak occurs due to rim deformation, the tire should be
taken off so that the wheel can be inspected and adjusted
if necessary. If the rim is rusty at the bead seating, the
rust must be removed; this can suitably be done with a
steel brush or a pad of steel wool. If rust has pitted the
rim, a file should be used. Any minor pits remaining af-
ter adjustment should be coated with thick rubber solu-
tion; the tire is then coated in the same way and mounted
on the wheel before the solution dries.
NOTE
Check before mounting the tire that the rim is not
out-of-round or out-of-true.
Nov 1974
On ;
Smenthee ee rotating rim, the difference be-
illustration} ghest and lowest point measured at A (see
rhotlal tae wee not exceed 0.059 in, (1.5 mm), as from
iidatent io “aed in.(1.2 mm). The side throw B (see
finer’ should be measured in the same way and
0.047. in Pens 0.059 in. (1.5 mm), as from model 1976
When the i
pinsare ee ae are made, the rim should be
Hake in the usual way, either on a wheel hub or in a
Pparatus, so that the rim can be rotated.
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S$ 1761
MEASUREMENT POINTS ON THE WHEEL RIM
771-1
et
Sr=FSF>F=
ee
Page 535
TIRES
MAINTENANCE
The working life of a tire depends very much on the care
it receives and the conditions under which it has to work.
Some of the factors affecting tire wear are listed below.
1. Inflation pressure. It is important to maintain the cor-
rect inflation pressure and to adjust the pressure ac-
cording to load. For correct tire pressures, see group 0.
Correct Overinflated Underinflated
TREAD CONTACT WITH ROADWAY
2. Wheel balancing is necessary to avoid vibration and
consequent wear. Wheels must be balanced both stati-
cally and dynamically.
772-1
3. Wheel alignment. Faulty alignment of the wheels can
cause heavy wear on the tires.
4. Speed. Tire mileage diminishes sharply with rising
speed, mainly due to the greater friction heat gener-
ated,
5, Engine power. Powerful engines give rapid accelera-
tion and high speed, which in turn demand powerfu|
brakes. This contributes to faster wear on the tires,
6. Road surface. Dry roads offering a good grip for the
tires cause a great deal of wear.
7. Manner of driving. The temperament of the driver may
weigh more heavily than any other factor. If the acce|-
eration and braking resources of the car are regularly
utilized to the limit, this will quickly wear down the
tires.
A statically balanced wheel should be able to come to
rest in any position when suspended and free to rotate.
A dynamically balanced wheel should rotate in a plane
perpendicular to the axis of rotation, i.e. it should have
no tendency to skew during rotation.
The balancing operation should not be performed on new
wheels, but only after some 600—900 miles (1 000—1 500
km) motoring; this is to give the tire time to “shake down”
on the rim.
Wheels need rebalancing after long mileage because tire
wear alters the distribution of weight.
NOTE
When a wheel spinner is used, the speedometer read-
ing must not exceed 40 mph (70 km/h).
Febr 1977
Page 536
the hub and breke Crum on the rear wheeis are made as
an integral casting, while the front wheels feature a spe-
oa hud
after considerabie mileage, especially if bubrication has
not peer satisfactory, the wheel bearings may become
gorn and play W develop. Since this has a highly deteri-
menta! effect on the steering characteristics, the bearings
must be renewed. Bearing play is easily checked if the
ois jacked up. Hold the wheel at top and bottom and
ry to wiggle it: this will immediately reveal any un-
wanted play. If the play, measured at the edge of the rim,
exceeds 0.08 in. {2 mm), the bearing must be changed. Do
not subject the bearings to blows under any circumstances,
since such treatment could easily damage them. In addi-
tien to the tools mentioned in the instructions, an arbor
press will be needed for removal and installation of whee!
bearings.
“
\
\
Nn
FRONT WHEEL HUB
1. Cotter pin
2. Castie nut
3. Washer
4. Hub
5. Drive shaft
FRONT WHEEL HUB
he: haa wheel hub is splined to the outer drive shaft
: red by means of a castle nut and cotter pin. The
Sliding surface on the inside of the hub must be well pro-
tected against scratches and blow marks when the hub is
removed. It must seal properly against the shaft seal, and
‘ts rounded edge towards the end face must also be pro-
tected. If the sliding surface is scratched or otherwise
damaged it must be trimmed and polished. This job
should be done in a lathe, but great pains must be taken
= avoid appreciable reduction of the diameter of the
sliding surface.
Due attention of these precautionary measures is of the
VEROSE importance, as neglect in this respect results in
rapid wear of the shaft seal: grease from the ball bearings
may enter the wheel hub and be carried to the brake
drum where it will ruin the brake linings, Instructions for
replacement of front wheel bearings and seal are given in
group 6.
S 2494
6. Shaft seal
7. Nut
8. Ball bearing
9. Steering knuckle housing
10. Sealing ring
774~4
22222
===
Page 537
REAR WHEEL HUB
Ball bearings are fitted in the rear wheel hubs. These, to-
gether with the shaft seal, accompany the hub when it is
removed.
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REAR WHEEL HUB S 2495
—— Febr 1977
774-2
Page 538
1, Before starting work, make sure that the car is thor.
oughly cleaned under the fenders. Scrape off all dirt
that might loosen and enter the bearings.
2. Remove the hub cap and back off the wheel bolts.
3, When the rear hub is involved, remove the dust cap,
followed by the cotter pin, the castle nut and the
washer,
4, Jack up the front or rear part of the car, as appropri-
ate.
5. Take off the wheel.
6. If dealing with the rear wheel hub, check that the
handbrake is released and back off the brake adjust-
ing bolts. Remove the brake housing and hang it on
the wheel housing in such a way that the brake hose
not be damaged. Remove the cotter pin, crown nut
and washer. Apply the hub puller — and secure it with
the ordinary wheels bolts.
—U—_—_— —
|
HUB PULLER, 78 40 028
7. Pull off the hub. ‘
8. Prevent sand and other foreign matter from entering
the hub seals and bearings by covering these items
Over with clean clothes.
INSTALLATION
a the hub thoroughly and make sure that there is no
dirt in the shaft seal,
Before installing, grease the tongue and sliding surface
of the shaft seal,
- Fit the hub on the shaft. Put on the washer and tight-
en the castle nut using a torque of 180 Nm (130 ft.-Ib.,
18 kpm) for the front hub and 90 Nm (68 ft.-lb., 9.0
kpm) for the rear hub, on front wheel hubs: refit the
brake housing.
Secure the castle nut with the cotter pin. Refit the
Wheel and the hub cap.
REPLACEMENT OF BALL BEARING IN REAR WHEEL
HUB
Changing the front wheel bearings, see group 6.
REMOVAL
Before starting work, make sure that the car is thoroughly
cleaned under the fenders, Scrape off all dirt that might
loosen and enter the bearings.
. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
. Remove the dust cap, using a screwdriver.
. Remove the cotter pin, castle nut and washer.
. Check that the handbrake is fully released.
. Pull off the brake drum, using puller 78 40 028.
. Remove the shaft seal and the circlip.
. From outside the brake drum, press out both bearings.
NO OhWN >
INSTALLATION
Clean all the components thoroughly, and provide new
parts in place of any worn or damaged ones. Fit a new
shaft seal.
774—3
Page 539
L |
5
,
—- Hr+—— 4
C=
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S 2965
COMPONENTS OF REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
1. Brake drum
2. Outer bearing
3. Spacer sleeve
4. Inner bearing
5. Lock ring
6. Sealing ring
1. Pack the ball bearings with Saab Special Chassis
Grease. See section 120, “‘Lubrication’’.
2. Press in the small bearing 0.5 in. (12 mm) from the
edge, using tool 78 40 333.
PRESSING IN THE SMALL BEARING
Tool 78 40 333
774—4
3. Turn the hub over and fill the brake drum with
enough Saab Special Chassis Grease to occupy
about half the space between the bearings. Note!
If too much grease is applied, it may ooze out and
ruin the brake linings.
4. Insert the spacer sleeve and press in the big bearing,
using tool 78 40 325.
PRESSING IN THE BIG BEARING
Tool 78 40 325
5. Refit the circlip.
NOTE
The circlip is of a special type and must always be
mounted as shown in the figure.
6. Fit a new shaft seal.
7. Check that the axle stub sliding surface for the seal
is flawless. If damaged, adjust it and polish with a
very fine emery cloth. Grease the sliding surface
with Saab Special Chassis Grease.
8. Refit the brake drum and tighten the castle nut
with a torque of 90 Nm (65 ft.-Ib., 9 kpm). Secure
with the cotter pin,
Refit the dust cap, using tool 78 40 366.
10. Refit the wheel and lower the car.
Febr 1977
Page 540
CONTENTS
GENERAL
BODY ASSEMBLY
HOOD, FRONT PANEL AND FENDERS
DOORS AND LIDS
800
810
820
830
850
860
890
ba & UPHOLSTERY AND INTERIOR FITMENT
Beet tek i anne! ra ‘ BUMPERS
eee foe Sent a! oF. + Wee
air mo a ad BODY FINISHING
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apatageer iti yas rd Pee
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