Page 511
g, Refit the other ball joint and adjust in the same
way. Remember to refit the pinion first.
g, First adjust the axial play of the pinion and then
the radial play of the rack. See below under ‘’Ad-
justment”.
10. Ease the bellows over the tie-rod and clamp them
to the steering gear housing and tie-rods. Do not
tighten hard enough to prevent rotation of the tie-
rods.
11. Refit the lock nuts and screw the tie-rod ends to
the tie-rods.
DISASSEMBLY, LATER DESIGN
1. Slacken the lock nuts, and remove the tie-rod ends.
2. Release the clamps, and take off the rubber bellows.
3. Remove, by drilling, the lock pins from the inner ball
joints 3/16 in. (4.75 mm).
BORING THE LOCK PIN
4. Remove the outer bearing cup and the lock nut with
the tools 78 40 713 and 78 39 624.
Febr 1977
REMOVAL OF OUTER BEARING CUP AND LOCK NUT
Tools 78 40 713 and 78 39 624
5, Loosen nut and bolt, and remove piston and spring
from the steering gear housing.
6. Loosen the bolts of the pinion bearing, and lift out
bearing and pinion.
7. Pull the rack out.
8. Remove the spacer ring from the pinion. Press the
pinion bushing out.
REASSEMBLY, LATER DESIGN
Exercise the greatest cleanliness when reassembling, Lu-
bricate the rack and pinion, bearing points and other
sliding surfaces with Saab special chassis grease.
1. If removed, press the pinion bushing into the steering
gear housing.
2. Fit the inner ball joint to the pinion end of the rack.
Adjust to the correct play, tighten the lock nut, drill
a new hole for the lock pin 3/16 in. (4.75 mm), and
drive the latter in.
Furthermore, see the section “Adjustment”.
3. Pass the rack into the steering gear housing. Place the
spacer sleeve behind the rack, and then fit the pinion.
Adjust, first the axial play of the pinion, then the ra-
dial play of the rack. See “Adjustment”.
4. Refit the other ball joint, and adjust in the Way de-
scribed under paragraph 2.
5. Ease the rubber bellows on, and clamp them to the
steering gear and tie-rods respectively. See to it that
the tie-rod can be turned in the bellows.
6. Refit the lock nuts and screw the tie-rod ends to the
tie-rods.
642-5
=
=
=
- *,
=
‘>
Page 512
INSPECTION
After considerable mileage, and especially if lubrication
is unsatisfactory, the rack may wear unevenly. If there is
appreciable wear on its cylindrical part, the rack should
be rejected and a new one fitted. Also check the rack
bearing in the steering gear housing, appropriately by
comparison with a new rack. If wear is excessive, the
bushing which is pressed into the housing can be changed.
Examine the teeth of both the rack and the pinion for
wear. All the teeth do not get worn uniformly, and those
which are in mesh when the car is driven straight ahead
will be worn the most. However, if lubrication is satisfac-
tory there wil! be very little wear even on the most af-
fected teeth.
If the rack teeth are abnormally worn the function of the
steering gear will deteriorate and adjustment becomes
more difficult. In these circumstances a new rack should
be fitted.
Moderate wear on the pinion, on the other hand, may be
corrected by rotating this item through half a turn, so
that the teeth worn the most will be farthest away from
the rack when the car is being driven straight ahead. Nev-
ertheless, the provision of a new pinion is advocated.
Check the outer and inner tie-rod ball joints. The outer
ones are self-adjusting for moderate amounts of wear,
but if free play has developed the entire ball joint must
be rejected and a new one fitted. The components of the
inner ball joints are subjected to but little wear if lubri-
cation is satisfactory. However, if noticeable wear has oc-
curred, the affected parts should be changed.
ADJUSTMENT
The following adjustments may be necessary:
1. Pinion axial play.
2. Rack radial play.
3. Tie-rod inner ball joints.
Adjustment number 3 necessitates removal of the steering
gear, but the other adjustments can be done quite simply
in the car, unless removal of the steering gear is neces-
sary for some other reason. The inner ball joint very sel-
dom requires adjustment, since there is very little wear
here and the ball joint is to some extent selfadjusting.
Adjustment of pinion axial play
The occurrence of noise, knocking, etc., in the steering
mechanism indicates the advisability of examining the
pinion for axial and radial play.
Excessive play may occur after a new part has been fitted
or as the result of wear. Normally, wear is very slight
and adjustment on this account is very seldom called for,
provided that lubrication is satisfactory.
642-6 SAAB
in the pinion (the column) can be
hims under the pinion cover, The
and the cover should be
Excessive axial play
corrected by inserting $s iin
clearance between the pinion
in, (0.12 mm). ;
oS oe out the adjustment, which can be done with.
out removing the steering gear, jack up the front part
of the car sO that both wheels are clear of the floor,
2. Back off the lock nut, and retard the adjusting screw
: sacrucke radial play enough to completely relax the
spring tension. my.
Back off the two cover bolts at the pinion end.
Remove the cover, together with the shims located
WwW
under it. : : ;
The shim combination thickness is obtained by mea-
suring in the following way:
Refit the flat washer and the cover without shims,
a.
Do not tighten the cover hard so that the cover is
deformed.
b. Measure the play between housing and cover with
a feeler gange.
MEASURING THE PLAY
¢, The obtained value shall be increased so that there
is play max. 0.005 in. (0.12 mm) between cover
and pinion.
Example:
Value obtained when
Measuring with feeler
gauge 0.028 in. (0.70 mm)
Play +0.0028 in. (+0.07 mm)
Total shim thickness 0.031 in. (0.77 mm)
The thims are measured with the aid of a micro-
meter. Shims are available in the following thick-
nesses: 0.0276 in. (0.07 mm), 0.004 in. (0.10 mm),
0.010 in. (0.3 mm) and 0,028 in. (0.7 mm).
Febr 1977
Page 513
MEASURING THE SHIMS
_ Check that the washer is in position, and apply a blob
of Saab special chassis grease around the pinion stub.
Refit the cover and shims, and tighten the bolts. Re-
member to fit the retaining washers.
. After adjustment, check that the pinion moves freely.
If the pinion is stiff, the thickness of the shim combi-
nation is too small, and readjustment is called for.
. Adjust the radial play of the rack as described in the
following section.
NOTE
On cars equipped with vacuum servo the pinion of
the steering gear must be removed before the gear
is installed in the car. The pinion is refitted after
that the pinion is bolted to the dash panel.
Adjustment of rack radial play
After adjustment of the axial play of the pinion, the ra-
dial play of the rack must be adjusted, using the adjusting
screw located underneath the steering gear. This adjust-
ment, too, is most easily carried out without removing
the steering gear from the car.
1,
2.
3:
. Turn the steering wheel as far as it goes in both direc-
Febr 1977
Back off the lock nut.
Tighten the adjusting screw to the smallest possible
play without the rack moving stiffly.
Tighten the lock nut.
tions and check that rack movement is not stiff in any
Position.
Adjustment of tie-rod inner ball joints
The tie-rods, as illustrated, are identical for the right and
left sides. The rack end of the tie-rods is mad
e with dou-
ble balls, while at the other end the tie-rods are threaded
for connection to the outer ball joints.
Earlier design
1. The steering gear must be removed b
ball joint can be adjusted.
2. Release the clamps and remove the rubber b
INNER BALL JOINT, EARLIER DESIGN
1, Clamp 5. Inner ball seat
2. Tie-rod 6. Rack
3. Outer ball seat 7. Washer
4, Nut
efore the inner
ellows.
3. Pull the rack out to one side first. Bend up the tab
on the retaining washer and detach the outer ball
seat and nut with the aid of tool 78 40 713.
REMOVAL OF OUTER BALL SEAT FROM THE NUT, WHEN
RE-SHIMMING
Tools 78 40 713 and 78 39 624
642-7
Page 514
4, Fit a new retaining washer and then tighten the
nut, using tool 78 40 713.
5. Place a suitable combination of shims on the nut,
and insert the inner ball seat and locating washer
inside the nut, Position the washer with the concave
side facing the ball seat.
6. Pass the outer ball seat onto the tie-rod and tighten
with tool 78 40 713.
7. Check that the shimming is correct. The ball joint
should not have any play at all, but nor should it
move stiffly in any direction. If the rack and tie-rod
are held vertically, the ball joint should be tightened
so much that the tie-rod, with tie-rod end attached,
can be set at any angle whatsoever without falling
down of its own weight.
CAUTION
The tie-rod must not on any account be excessively
stiff in any position. It should be possible to move
it fully in all directions by light manual pressure.
8. If shimming is unsatisfactory, the outer ball seat
must be removed again and the number of shims
increased or decreased as necessary. After this, se-
cure the retaining washer.
9. Repeat the adjustment procedure for the other tie-
rod.
10. Refit the bellows and install the steering gear in the
Car.
Later design
1. The steering gear must be removed before the inner
ball joints can be adjusted.
2, Release the clamps, and remove the rubber bellows.
$2147
L JOINT, LATER DESIGN
INNER BAL
1, Outer bearing cup 5. Lock nut
2. Inner bearing cup 6. Spring
3. Tie-rod 7. Rack
4. Lock pin
642-8
3. Pull the rack out to one side. Remove, by drilling,
the lock pin from the ball joint.
4. Remove the outer bearing Cup and the lock nut
with the tools 78 40 713 and 78 39 624.
REMOVAL OF OUTER BEARING CUP AND LOCK NUT
Tools 78 40 713 and 78 39 624
5. Clean and inspect the parts. Renew the may-be de-
fective parts.
6. Refit the nut to the rack. Pass the outer bearing cup
onto the tie-rod, and fill the cup with Saab special
chassis grease. Fit the spring and the inner bearing
cup, and tighten the bearing cup.
7. When tightening the bearing cup, remember: the ball
joint should not have any play at all, but nor should
it move stiffly in any direction. If the rack and tie-rod
are held vertically, the ball joint should be tightened
so much that the tie-rod, with the tie-rod end attach-
ed, can be set at any angle whatsoever without falling
down of its own weight.
CAUTION
The tie-rod must not on any account be excessively
stiff in any position. It should be possible to move
it fully in all directions by light manual pressure.
8. Tighten the lock nut to the bearing cup with the
tools 78 39 624 and 78 40 713. Check again that
the ball joint is tightened up correctly. Drill a new
hole for the lock pin 3/16” (4.75 mm), depth
4.48 in. (12 mm), and fit a new lock pin. Secure
the lock pin by 4 center punches at the edge of the
hole. See to it that the new hole be located at least
45° from the key grip hole in the lock nut. Take
every precaution to prevent drillings from entering
the steering gear,
Febr 1977
Page 515
REPLACEMENT OF DUST EXCLUDER
If the bellows on the steering gear are damaged, they
should be renewed without delay, as otherwise dirt and
foreign matter may enter the steering gear and cause
seizing.
1. Jack up the front part of the car and take
wheel.
2. Remove the tie-rod ends as described in section 643.
3. Release the bellows clamps at the steering gear housing
and tie-rod, and remove the bellows.
4, Remove all old grease and put on a new bellows.
Tighten the clamps.
5. Refit the tie-rod end and reconnect it to the steering
arm.
6. Refit the wheel and lower the car to the floor.
7. Grease the steering gear and adjust the toe-in as de-
scribed in section $01. Tighten the lock nut.
off the
$2148
SECURING LOCK PIN WITH CENTER PUNCHES
9. The final adjustment is then made in the same way
as that used for the other tie-rod.
10. Fit the rubber bellows, and instil the steering gear
into the car.
NOTE
Removal of the steering gear from the car provides
a convenient opportunity for checking and adjusting
the axial play of the pinion and then the radial play
of the rack.
Other measures
If the steering gear is still stiff in any position after adjust-
ment of the rack and pinion, this is probably due to
stresses incurred when tightening the bolts. Back off the
two retaining bolts at the end farthest away from the pin-
ion and insert a spacer under the steering gear at the bolt
where it does not lie flush. On some cars, a spacer has al-
ready been fitted.
Fete 1077 SAAB
642-9
Page 516
TIE-ROD ENDS
GENERAL
The outer ball joints, or tie-rod ends, are screwed to the
tie-rods and secured with the lock nuts. The total length
of the tie-rod can be reduced or increased by slackening
the lock nuts and turning the tie-rod to the right or left
with a wrench applied to its flats. This is necessary in
order to adjust the toe-in.
TIE-ROD ASSEMBLY
1. Inner ball joint
2. Tie-rod
3. Lock nut
4. Tie-rod end
The tie-rod is connected to the steering arm of the steer-
ing knuckle by means of a tapered pivot, which fits into
correspondingly tapered holes in the steering arm. The
pivot is secured by a castle nut and cotter pin. The tie-rod
ends cannot be dismantled. They are selfadjusting for mode-
rate wear, and consequently seldom need changing.
Damage arising through external influences, such as a col-
lision or other accident, may, however, make it necessary
to change both tie-rods and tie-rod ends. As a safety mea-
sure, damaged tie-rod ends should be changed as soon as
possible after the damage is discovered.
TIE-ROD END
1. Body
2. Pivot
3. Rubber seal
4, Steering arm
5. Washer
6. Castle nut
7. Cotter pin
REPLACEMENT
The tie-rod ends cannot be disassembled. Consequently,
if excessive play develops the tie-rod ends must be re-
newed.
1. Jack up the front part of the car and take off the
wheel.
2. Remove the cotter pin (7), the castle nut (6) and the
washer (5).
3. Apply the puller, tool 78 60 448 and release the pivot
from the steering arm. Do not strike off the pivot, since
such action could damage both the pivot itself and
other parts of the unit.
643-1
Page 517
REMOVAL OF TIE ROD END
Teo! 78 60 448
4. Back off the nut which secures the tie-rod end to the
tie-rod.
5. Screw the tie-rod end off the rod,
6. Screw a new tie-rod end onto the rod, but do not se-
cure it by tightening the lock nut.
7, Connect the pivot to the steering arm. Tighten the
castle nut to a torque of 35—50 Nm (25—36 ft.-lb,,
3.5—5 kpm), and fit a new cotter pin.
8. Refit the wheel and lower the car to the floor,
9. Check and adjust toe-in as described in section 601,
IMPORTANT
Remember to retighten the lock nut after adjust-
ment,
643-2
REPLACEMENT OF RUBBER SEAL
A rubber seal is fitted to each ball joint, Hf this is dam
aged so that it no longer affords an effective seal, it must
be rejected and a new one fitted, The procedure is as fol
tows,
1, Jack up the car and remove the wheel,
2. Remove the cotter pin, the castle nut and the washer
from under the tie-rod end pivot,
3 Apply the puller, tool 78 GO 448, and release the pivat
from the steering arm,
Do not attempt to strike off the pivot, since such ac
tion could damage both the pivot itself and other parts,
4 Remove the damaged rubber seal from the pivot and
fit a new seal,
5. Refit the pivot in the steering arm, put the washer in
place and tighten the castle nut with 36-50 Nm (25—
36 ft-lb, 3.5—5 kpm), Secure the nut with a new cot
ter pin,
6. Refit the wheel and lower the car,
Page 518
CONTENTS
700
GENERAL
COIL-SPRING SUSPENSION, FRONT
COIL-SPRING SUSPENSION, REAR
SHOCK ABSORBERS
STABILIZER
WHEELS
TIRES
HUBS
Page 519
GENERAL
FRONT SUSPENSION
The upper control arms are provided with seats for the
coil springs which are fitted between these seats and sim-
ilar ones on the body. These latter seats are fitted with
rubber bumpers, see fig., which act as stops and limit up-
ward suspension travel. Rebound travel is limited by two
rubber bumpers attached to the body under the upper
control arms.
The lower control arms on Saab 96 up to and incl. chassis
14
13
(SR
yan
SS
12
No. 96722013535 and Saab 95 up to and incl. chassis
No. 95722004645 are interconnected by means of a sta-
bilizer bar. The stabilizer bar is held to the body by two
rubber bushed mounting brackets under the floor of the
engine compartment and to the two lower control arms
by rubber bushed bearings on the front of these arms.
The shock absorbers are of hydraulic, telescopic type.
They are attached by means of rubber-bushed connec-
tions to the lower control arms at their bottom ends and
to the body at their top ends.
$ 5271
FRONT SUSPENSION
1. Coil spring 7. Lower ball joint 13. Upper control arm
2, Rubber bumper 8. Shock absorber 14. Rubber spacer
3. Steering arm 9. Stabilizer bar 15. Protective shield
4, Spring support 10, Lower control arm 16. Hub
5. Upper ball joint 11 Inner drive shaft 17. Brake housing
6. Brake disc 12. Rubber bumper
700—1
=z
===
=3=
===
-=->
=== ==:
==F=FSs== =
SESSSFSF==.
>.
Page 520
REAR SUSPENSION
The rear axle is movably attached to the body at three
points by means of rubber-bushed bearings. It comprises
@ unit Consisting of a tube (2) with swept-back ends fit-
ted with end plates to carry the press-fitted stub axles.
The wheel hubs and brake drums are carried in ball bear-
Ings On the stub axles, while the back plates and appur-
tenant rear brakes are bolted to the outside of the end
plates, At its center, the rear axle is attached to the body
by means of a rubber bushed bearing bracket (1). In addi-
tion, it is braced to the body at the sides through the me-
dium of longitudinal side links, attached to both the body
and the rear axle by means of rubber bushed bearings,
The lower coil spring seats are bolted to the stub axle ex.
tension on the inside of the rear axle end plates. The up-
per seats for these springs are attached to the body by
means of spring isolators (4) and combined with the rub-
ber buffers (5) which limit upward travel of the rear axle
and thus also of the wheels. Rebound wheel travel is re-
stricted by the stop straps (6).
The rear shock absorbers for the Saab 95 are of arm type,
They are bolted to the body and connected to the rear
axle by links.
REAR SUSPENSION, SAAB 95
1. Center bearing
2. Rear axle tube
3. Shock absorber
4. Upper spring seat
5. Rubber bumper
6. Stop strap
7. Lower spring seat
8. Body bracket
9. Side link
10. Shock-absorber link
700—2
Febr 1977
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