Page 381
CLUTCH OPERATION
Up to and incl. model 1968
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CLUTCH PEDAL
1. Remove the cotter and washer, and pull out the pin
retaining the master cylinder push rod.
2. Remove the cotter and washer from the pedal shaft
3. Lift the pedal clear of the spring and pull it off the
shaft.
4. Remove the spring.
5. Before reinstalling, grease the pedal bearings with
chassis grease.
CLUTCH PEDAL WITH ADJUSTMENT DEVICE
1. Master cylinder
2. Slave cylinder
3. Adjustment screw
4. Stop nut
5. Bleeder nipple
Installation takes place in the reverse sequence.
Febr 1977
ADJUSTMENT OF CLUTCH PEDAL FREE MOVE-
MENT
The clearance between release bearing and release plate is
gradually decreased by wear on the clutch facings. Ad-
just the clutch pedal free movement with the screw on
the clutch housing. This screw is located on the
side in relation to the slave cylinder. The free m
opposite
ovement
is increased by turning the screw counter clockwise.
The clearance is checked by pressing the slave cylinders
connection to the clutch arm. A movement of 0.16 in
(4 mm) here, gives the correct clutch clearance.
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH CLEARANCE
Correct clutch clearance: A = 0.16 in. (4 mm)
412-1
Page 382
MASTER CYLINDER
General
The master cylinder is a cast unit containing the cylinder
and fluid reservoir.
MASTER CYLINDER, CUT-AWAY VIEW
The cylinder consists of a housing of light alloy with a
surface polished bore and with an inner assembly, made
up to the push rod, cupped washer, lock ring, piston, end
seal, piston seal, spring retainer, piston return spring, valve
spacer, elastic washer, valve spindle and valve seal. The
open end of the cylinder is protected by a rubber dust
cap.
When the piston returns to the position of rest, the valve
which affords a seal in the bottom of the cylinder during
disengagement opens. When the valve is open the fluid is
able to pass freely from the slave cylinder to the reservoir.
Removal
h the hose from the slave cylinder and pump out
tac
a clean vessel.
h rod from the clutch pedal by remoy.
plain washer and the pin.
e the retaining bolts and remove
from the dash panel.
1. De
the fluid into
2. Separate the pus
ing the cotter, the
3, Back off and remov
the master cylinder
Disassembly
Ease the rubber dust cap back and remove the lock ring,
ers. It is now possible to remove the
push rod and the cupped washer. Removal of the push
rod reveals the piston and its seal. Remove the complete
piston assembly. The assembly can be disassembled by
lifting the retainer spring leaf over the tongued end of the
piston. Carefully take the piston seal off the piston and
using long nosed pli
remove the end seal.
Push down the piston return spring, thus enabling the
valve spindle to slide through the key shaped hole in the
retainer so that the spring lets go. Remove the valve spacer,
taking care not to damage the elastic washer located un-
der the valve head. Remove the seal from the valve head.
Examine the cylinder bore and if it is not scored or distor-
ted, and feels smooth to the touch, new seals may safely
be fitted. If, on the other hand, the slightest doubt is en-
tertained about the condition of the bore, a new cylinder
should be fitted.
If the old seals are loose on the piston and too big, con-
tamination by mineral oil may be suspected. This is the
commonest cause of cylinder trouble, and often sufficient
7
MASTER CYLINDER, DISASSEMBLED ia
1, Cylinder housing 8. Spring retainer
2. Hose 9. Seal
4 i 10, Piston
, 11. Rubber dust cap
5. Elastic washer 12. Push rod with cupped wash
6, Valve spacer 13. Lock ring ™
7. Spring 14. Clutch pedal
412—2
Febr 1977
Page 383
pains are not taken to prevent it. Seals of natural rubber
are highly susceptible, and even minute quantities of oil
can gradually cause considerable swelling. If the slightest
trouble in this respect is suspected, fit new seals through-
out the system and flush the system clean with pure
prake fluid.
Reassembly
Fit the seal with its flat side properly located on the valve
head. Then put on the elastic washer with its cupped side
facing the lower side of the valve head, retaining it in po-
sition by means of the valve spacer, the legs of which are
turned towards the valve seal. Refit the piston return
spring, centering it on the washer, insert the spring re-
tainer in the spring and press down until the valve spindle
bottoms through the key shaped hole. At the same time,
check that the spindle is correctly located in the middle
of the retainer. Check that the spring is still centered on
the spacer. Fit a new seal on the piston with its flat side
towards the seat of the piston.
Insert the small end of the piston in the retainer until the
retainer spring leaf engages the piston tongue. Press the
retainer leaf fully home.
Lubricate the piston thoroughly with Wakefield/Girling
Rubber Grease 3 and refit the assembly in the cylinder
bore, valve end first, at the same time easing the piston
seal lips slowly into the bore.
Remount the push rod in the cylinder, followed by the
lock ring, placing this in the milled groove in the cylinder
body. Replace the rubber dust cap or, if it is damaged,
fit a new one.
Installation
1. Install the master cylinder in position on the dash pan-
el,
3. Attach the push rod to the clutch pedal by inserting
the pin through the holes in the push rod fork and the
hole in the clutch pedal. Refit the plain washer and
secure with the cotter.
4. Reconnect the hose.
5. Bleed the system.
Febr 1977
SLAVE CYLINDER
General
The slave cylinder is secured to the clutch housing by
means of a screw. The inner assembly comprises the push
rod, lock ring, piston and piston spring. The open end of
the cylinder is protected by a rubber dust cap an
nipple is located in the bleeder opening.
i S$ 61)
SLAVE CYLINDER, CUT-AWAY VIEW
Removal
1. Disconnect the hose and pump out the fluid into a
clean vessel.
2. Back off the retaining screw(s) for the cylinder.
3. Separate the cylinder from the push rod and clutch
housing.
Disassembly
Ease the dust cap back and remove the lock ring, using
long nosed pliers. The piston with seal can now be re-
moved, followed by the spring. Examine the cylinder
bore and if it is not scored or distorted, and feels smooth
to the touch, a new seal can be fitted. If, on the other
hand, the slightest doubt is entertained about the con-
dition of the bore, a new cylinder should be fitted.
412~3
da bleed
Page 384
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SLAVE CYLINDER, DISASSEMBLED
1, Push rod 6. Spring
2. Rubber dust cap 7. Cylinder body
3. Lock ring 8. Bleeder screw
4. Seal 9. Hose
5. Piston
Reassembly
Reassemble by following in reverse sequense the instruc-
tions given for “Disassembly”, taking pains to lubricate
the seal and to pack the rubber boot with Wakefield/
Girling Rubber Grease No. 3. Always lubricate the cy!-
inder bore with brake fluid when reassembling this unit.
Installation
1,Locate the slave cylinder on the clutch housing and
pass the push rod through the hole in the rubber dust
cap.
2. Refit and tighten the retaining screw.
. Reconnect the hose.
4. Bleed the system.
w
BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER AND SLAVE
CYLINDER
1. Connect a hose (internal diameter approx. 0.25 in.,
6 mm) to bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder. Place
the free end of the hose in a collecting vessel partly
filled with brake fluid.
2. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
3. Open the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder half a turn.
4. Place a cooling system tester at the filling hole of the
master cylinder.
5. Pump several times with the hand pump, until all air
has left the system.
6. Close the bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder.
7. By depressing the clutch pedal, check that there is no
air left.
2. Turn th
RELEASE BEARING
Removal and installation
t of the car, see section 201.
forward and remove the two
the release bearing in the fork,
1. Lift the engine ou
e clutch lever
spring clips retaining
RELEASE BEARING ATTACHMENT
3. Remove the release bearing.
After changing the bearing, reinstall in the reverse se-
quence. If the release bearing is provided with a graphite
ring, the ring must not be worn with its retainer.
IMPORTANT
Always make sure that the spring clips are correctly
located,
412-4 SAaAaB
Febr 1977
Page 385
As from model 1969
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CLUTCH PEDAL
1, Remove the protective cover of the steering wheel
shaft.
2. Remove the cotter pin and washer, and pull out the
push rod of the master cylinder.
3. Slacken the return spring of the clutch pedal.
4, Remove the lock washer of the pedal shaft. Remove
the pedal.
5. If necessary, remove the springs.
6. Before the refitting, grease the pedal bearings with
chassis grease.
Installation takes place in the reverse order.
ADJUSTMENT OF CLUTCH PEDAL FREE MOVE-
MENT
The clearance between release bearing and release plate is
gradually decreased by wear on the clutch facings. Ad-
just the clutch pedal free movement with the screw on
the clutch housing, located in the opposite side in rela-
tion to the slave cylinder. The free movement is in-
creased by turning the screw counter clockwise. The
clearance is checked by pressing the slave cylinders con-
nection to the clutch arm. A movement of 0.16 in. (4
mm) here, gives the correct clutch clearance.
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH CLEARANCE
Correct clutch clearance: A = 0.16 in. (4mm)
Febr 1977
MASTER CYLINDER
General
The master cylinder consists of a cast body with a fluid
container of plate enclosing the cylinder housing. The
operating unit consists of the following main parts: push
rod, piston, piston seal and return spring. For sealing at
the push rod end there is a pair of rubber bellows.
CON BA UWF&W Ww
S 1800
MASTER CYLINDER, EXPLODED VIEW
1. Housing
2. Spring
3. Spring retainer
4, Gasket
5. Washer
6, Piston
7. Gasket
8. Lock ring
9. Seal bellows
10. Push rod
11. Axle bolt
412-5
Page 386
Removal
- Detach the hose from the slave cylinder and pump
the fluid into a clean container.
al by removing the cotter pin and the axle bolt.
Back off and remove the retaining bolts and remove
the master cylinder,
Disassembly
Ease the rubber dust cap back and remove the lock ring,
using long nosed pliers. Remove the push rod and its
washer. The piston and its seal now become visible. Re-
move the piston, washer, piston seal and spring. Gently
take the seal off the Piston,
Examine the cylinder bore and if it is not scored or dis-
torted, and feels smooth to the touch, new seals can be
fitted. If, on the other hand, the slightest doubt is enter-
tained about the condition of the bore, a new cylinder
should be fitted.
If the old seals are loose on the piston and too big, con-
tamination by mineral oil may be suspected. This is the
commonest cause of cylinder trouble. Seals of natural
rubber are highly Suspectible to mineral oil, and even
minute quantities of oil can gradually cause considerable
swelling. If oil is suspected, fit new seals throughout the
system and flush the system clean with pure brake fluid.
Reassembly
Fit the return spring and spring retainer. Lubricate the
Piston and seals thoroughly with Wakefield/Girling Rub-
ber Grease 3 and refit gasket, washer, and piston with
gaskets,
NOTE
When fitting the washer, make the convex side face
the piston.
POSITIONING OF WASHER
412-6
Separate the Push rod attachment from the clutch ped-
—_=
Fit the push rod into the cylinder, followed by the wash.
er and the lock ring, placing the latter in the cylinder hous.
ing groove. Refit the seal bellows, or fit new ones if the
old ones are damaged.
Installation
1. Install the master cylinder in position.
2. Attach the push rod to the clutch pedal by inserting
the pin through the holes in the push rod fork and the
hole in the clutch pedal. Refit and secure with the cot-
ter pin.
3. Reconnect the hose.
4. Bleed the system.
SLAVE CYLINDER
General
The slave cylinder is fastened to the clutch cover with a
bolt.
The inner assembly comprises the push rod, lock ring,
Piston and piston spring. The open end of the cylinder is
protected by a rubber dust cap. A bleed nipple is located
in the bleeder Opening,
\ S 61)
SLAVE CYLINDER, CUT-AWAY View
2. Back off the r
3. Separate the
housing,
etaining screw for the cylinder,
cylinder from the Push rod and clutch
Febr 1977
Page 387
Disassembly
Ease the dust cap back and remove the lock ring, using
long nosed pliers. The piston with seal attached can now
be removed, followed by the spring. Examine the cylin-
der bore and if it is not scored or distorted, and feels
smooth to the touch, a new seal can be fitted. If, on the
other hand, the slightest doubt is entertained about the
condition of the bore, a new cylinder should be fitted.
SLAVE CYLINDER, DISASSEMBLED
1, Push rod 6. Spring
2. Rubber dust cap 7. Cylinder body
3. Lock ring 8. Bleeder screw
4. Seal 9. Hose
5, Piston
Reassembly
Reassemble by following in reverse sequence the instruc-
tions given for “Disassembly”, taking pains to lubricate
the seal and to pack the rubber boot with Wakefield/
Girling Rubber Grease No. 3. Always lubricate the cylin-
der bore with brake fluid when reassembling this unit.
Installation
1. Locate the slave cylinder on the clutch housing and
pass the push rod through the hole in the rubber dust
cap.
2. Refit and tighten the retaining screw.
. Reconnect the hose.
4. Bleed the system.
Ww
Febr 1977
BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER AND SLAVE
CYLINDER
1. Connect a hose (internal diameter approx. 0.25 in, 6
mm) to bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder. Place
the free end of the hose in a collecting vessel partly
filled with brake fluid.
2. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid,
3. Open the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder half a
turn.
4. Place a cooling system pressure teste
hole of the master cylinder.
r at the filling
BLEEDING THE CLUTCH SYSTEM
5. Pump several times with the hand pump, until all air
has left the system.
6, Close the bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder.
7. By depressing the clutch pedal, check that there is no
air left.
412-7
Page 389
—,
REMOVAL, INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
if work is to be done on the transmission unit only, the
entire power unit must be lifted out. The engine is then
separated from the transmission unit.
1, Disconnect the battery earth cable from the battery.
5.
a. Back off the four screws for
. Bend the upper bracket on the expansio
the front panel and
detach the two radiator supports from the car
body. Detach the clamping straps from the ra-
diator and remove the control wire.
n tank
backwards so that the headlight washer motor
goes Clear.
. Detach the cables from the headlight washer
motor (note the connection positions of the
2, Remove the hood by opening it wide and then re-
moving the locking springs for the hood hinges. Dis-
connect the hose for the windshield washer. Now
grip the hinge stay, bending it slightly inwards to re-
lease the pin on one side. An assistant will hold the
hood on the other side and help to lift it off.
cables).
seenes
REMOVAL OF FASTENING SCREWS, FRONT PLATE Ht
6. Remove the front panel, taking great care to avoid
damaging the paintwork.
tonenne
REMOVAL OF ENGINE HOOD
Remove the windshield washer container and the
washer pump.
3. Drain off the cooling water through the radiator
draining tap. To ensure that draining will be as ef-
fective as possible, bleed the system through the
bleed nipple on the heat exchanger. Save the ccol-
ant.
Up to and incl, model 1968
4. Disconnect the headlight and direction indicator
cables.
5. Back off the four screws for the front panel and de-
tach the two radiator supports from the car body.
Detach the clamping straps from the radiator and
remove the hood lock and control wire.
Model 1969—1970
4. Remove the headlight decor frames. Disconnect the
headlight cables.
5. Back off the four screws for the front pane
tach the two radiator supports from the car body.
Detach the clamping straps from the radiator and
remove the engine hood control wire.
As from model 1971 (with headlight washer)
4. Remove the headlight decor frames. Disconnect the
hoses for the headlight washers from the respective
nozzles. Disconnect the headlight cables.
| and de-
REMOVAL OF FRONT PLATE
Febr 1977 470-1
Page 390
10.
11,
12.
13,
14.
15,
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
470-2
Disconnect the upper coolant hose from the en-
gine and the lower coolant hose from the radiator,
Back off and remove the two lower radiator retain-
ing screws and remove the radiator and the expan-
sion tank,
Disconnect all hoses and cables from the engine.
Note the positions of the cable connections on the
alternator.
Remove the air cleaner. Cover the carburetor air
inlet to prevent the entry of foreign matter into the
engine,
Remove the throttle control, the preheater cover
and the engine’s lateral support. Leave the attach-
ment yoke for the lateral support on the engine.
Back off and remove the flange nuts for the exhaust
pipes at the cylinder heads. Remove the lower clamps
for the exhaust pipes at the engine cuchions,
Remove the rubber cushions for the middle exhaust
pipe from under the floor.
Remove the spacers at the cylinder heads and low-
er the muffler as far as possible.
Remove the two front engine cushions, working
from above.
Disconnect the freewheel control from the gearbox.
Back off the rear retaining screw holding the clutch
cylinder and hang the cylinder up in a suitable posi-
tion. Collect the shims, if any, fitted between the
cylinder and the gearbox.
Remove the gear shift rod joint from the gearbox
after removal of the taper pin.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gear box.
Lift up the front part of the floor mat and remove
the rubber plug so that the center screw of the rear
engine bracket becomes accessible. As from model
1971: Remove the warm air channel and fold away
the insulating felt. Remove the screw with the aid
of a 9/16 in. socket with extension.
Jack up the car and place trestles in the front edges
of the sills so that the front wheels are clear of the
floor.
Undo the large clamps round the rubber boots on
the inner universal joints.
Fit lifting beam 78 62 022, Lifting beams of recent
design have a special hook on one side designed to
be hooked into the attachment yoke for the lateral
support. See the picture,
24.
25,
Attach the lifting hook to a suitable hoist and |ift
the engine carefully about 2 in, (560 mm). Pull the
transmission pin out of the rear engine bracket,
Open up the inner universal joints, first on the right
side and then on the left. Do this with the T-shaped
pieces of the drive shafts located vertically and with
the engine unit pushed over as far as possible in the
opposite direction. Fit protective cover 73 23 736
in the rubber boots and 78 38 469 on the inner
drivers,
26. Lift the power unit out of the engine compartment,
Make sure that the distributor vacuum chamber is
not damaged against the engine compartment cross
stay.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF POWER UNIT
27. Clean the power unit and separate the transmission
unit from the engine.
Febr 1977