Page 191
FUEL PUMP
Disassembly
5 ¢ ire ve the gasket ana
1. Screw off the cover and remove tne Gd»
GERONAL nese 2. Make a mark over the flange on the lower and upper
age ' i } , hoe reinstalled in the
f part of the pump so that they can be reinste led it
Separate the fuel line from the fuel pump. Take off the same position
nuts and lock washers and remove the pump and push 3. Back off and remove the screws and separate the uppe!
rod. Remove the old gasket. Always use a new gasket pump from each other.
and lower parts of the
integral unit
when reassembling the fuel pump. Note! The upper. part.with its RC
OC NOTE 7 ————] and cannot be disassembled further.
NOTE
4. Stand the lower part of the pump with the diaphragm
Mark the enc oF ie Dy ie ce eres Sere! | ona flat surface. Press the spiral spring lock washer
the camshaft to ensure that the push rod is rein- down with a 10 mm open-end spanner and remove the
——— lock ring from its groove in the diaphragm rod. Re-
_"? 7 | move the spring lock washer and the spring. Replace
the lock ring on the diaphragm rod.
EARLIER VERSION ee ae re I
Overhauling with a repair kit A small shaft seal is provided to afford a seal be-
uli
i. : oT tween the diaphragm rod and the lower part of the
pump. This is not replaceable. As the lips on the
shaft seal face the ring groove for the lock ring in
the diaphragm rod, the shaft seal would withdrawn
from the lower part of the pump towards the dia-
phragm. Because of this, always proceed exactly as
follows.
5. Hold the lower part of the pump in the hand, press
the diaphragm lightly inwards and remove the lock
ring again. Then, release the diaphragm only far
enough to allow the pins which hold the diaphragm
to the diaphragm rod to be removed by pressing with
a drawing point.
6. Pull the diaphragm rod away from the lower part of
the pump towards the drive side, Remove the dia-
phragm and the compression spring.
REPAIR KIT, FUEL PUMP
suss
FUEL PUMP, EARLIER VERSION
1. Lock washer 8. Diaphragm
2. Sleeve 9. Pump body, upper part
3. Spring 10. Filter
4, Pump body, lower part 11. Gasket
5. Diaphragm rod 12. Cover
6. Retaining pin 13, Screw for cover
7. Spring
Febr 1977 SAB
233-1
Page 192
RE
CHECKING THE FUEL PUMP PRESSU
Reassembly
1. Apply a little grease to the diaphragm rod and con-
nect it with the pin to the new diaphragm. Put on the To cart oe
Ps sure gauge will
figure. Measuring can .
eed range. For figure
his check, 4 T-nipple and a suitable pres-
y out this © eded. Connect uP as shown in the
now be done throughout the en-
2, Pass the lower part of the pump against the spring s, see “Technical cate
pressure onto the diaphragm rod until the diaphragm tire sp
makes contact.
3. Stand the lower part of the pump with the diaphragm
on a flat surface. Install the compression spring with
the lock washer. Hold the lock washer with a 0.40 in.
(10 mm) spanner, press it down on the push rod and
insert the lock ring.
4. Align the upper part of the pump according to the
marks on the flanges. Press the push rod in so far that
the diaphragm is not under tension. In this position,
insert the screws and join the upper and lower parts
of the pump together.
5, Install a new strainer and a new gasket. Screw on the
cover.
LATER VERSION
The fuel pump cannot be dismantled and cannot be re-
paired if there is any defect in the diaphragm or the valves.
If the pump is faulty, the whole unit must be replaced. MEASURING FUEL PRESSURE
If the cover is removed the fuel filter can be replaced or
cleaned. The gasket should also be replaced.
FUEL PUMP, LATER VERSION
1. Screw
2. Cover
3. Gasket
4. Filter
5. Pump body
6. Push rod
Febr 1977
Page 193
FUEL TANK AND FUEL LINES
FUEL TANK
Disassembly
1. Remove the drain plug, accessible from under the car,
and empty the tank.
2. Remove the rear seat cushion and backrest.
3. Saab 95: Remove the sheathing over the tank by un-
hooking the two spiral fasteners.
Saab 96: Lift out the spare wheel and remove the
front part of the trunk floor.
4. Disconnect the tank earth wire from the body and de-
tach the cables from the fuel gage sender unit. Note
the positions of the cable connections.
. Detach the fuel line from the tank.
6. Disconnect the two tank retaining straps. On the Saab
96, the nuts for these straps are accessible through
holes in the rear sloping panel.
7. Jack up the car and undo the clips for the venting
and filler tubes under the rear fender.
8. Raise the right side of the tank and remove the tank
in an upwards and rearwards direction.
9. Collect the rubber seal in the wheel house wall.
oO
Reassembly
1. Refit the rubber seal on the venting and filler tubes.
This seal should be provided with a leather thong or
suchlike in its groove to facilitate fitting.
2. Make sure that the tank retaining straps are correctly
located, Cover the top of the tank filler connection
and the fuel gage sender unit with masking tape.
3. Pass the tank filler connection and the ends of the
leather thong through the hole in the wheel house
wall and place the tank in position.
4. Refit the rubber seal in the wheel house wall by draw-
ing out the previously inserted leather thong from the
groove.
5. Remove the masking tape, rejoin the venting and filler
tubes and replace the clamps.
. Refit the wheel and lower the car.
7. Reattach the fuel line to the tank and then tighten the
tank retaining straps.
8. Reconnect the tank earth wire to the body and the
cables to the fuel gage sender unit. The grey cable
must be connected to ““G”’ and the brown cable to
"Ww".
9. Refit the trunk floor or sheathing, as applicable. Re-
place seats and cushions.
f°>)
Febr 1977
Checking fuel tank ventilation, as from model 1970
or the ventilation hose not to be
It is vitally important f
w fuel
clogged. If it is, the fuel pump will be unable to dra
or else the tank will be sucked together and collapse.
Check, therefore, that the hose opening under the rear
bumper is not clogged with dirt, etc., and that the hose
does not get squeezed in connection with assembly work.
FUEL LINES
To replace the fuel line, the power unit must be lifted
out of the car. Joins in the line should be made with great
care and only if absolutely essential. In no circumstances
may joins in the line be made inside the passenger com-
partment.
Removal
. Remove the hood, the front panel and the radiator.
. Take the seats, cushions and mats out of the car.
. Remove the front part of the trunk floor.
. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank and pump, and
bend open all clips and floor brackets. Collect all rub-
ber cushions from around the line inside the car.
5. Cut the fuel line off about 6—8 in. (15—20 cm) be-
hind the supporting beam for the rear seat cushion
and collect the rear part of the line.
6. Pull the fuel line out in the forward direction through
the engine compartment.
DmWNH —
Installation
1. Refix the rear nut for the fuel line and cover the open-
ing with masking tape.
2. Blow the fuel line floor channel clean, and adjust floor
brackets and clips as necessary to ensure that the line
runs clear.
3. Insert the fuel line from the front through the hole in
the dash panel.
4. Bend the rear section of the fuel line to the same shape
as the cut-off part.
5. Tear off the masking tape and reconnect the fuel line
to the fuel tank and pump.
6. Fit the rubber cushions round the fuel line and the
rubber seal in the dash panel. Then bend down all
clips and floor brackets.
7. Refit the trunk floor, mats, seats and cushions.
8. Refit the front panel, the horn and the hood.
234-1
Page 194
CLEANING THE FUEL SYSTEM
If impurities are found in the fuel tank, both tank and
line must be cleaned. This can be done by emptying aie
tank and flushing it out with pure gasoline or spirit. Ma :
sure that the tank is horizontal, so that the impurities -
foreign matter do not collect at one corner. To flush t : A
system more thoroughly, remove the fuel gage sender :
and direct the stream of liquid through the hole towards S
different parts of the tank. An extremely dirty tank a
be removed for cleaning. Disconnect the fuel line from :
tank and the pump and blow it clean with compressed .
Remove and clean the fuel pump filter. Lift off the aa
buretor cover, take out the float and the main jet an
blow clean with compressed air.
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Page 195
INLET MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Drain the coolant through the tap at the bottom of
the radiator.
3. Disconnect the earth cable from the battery.
4. Remove the distributor cap and detach the ignition
cables.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose and primary cable from
the distributor.
6. Remove the distributor.
7. Disconnect the hoses from the radiator and heater
element.
8. Disconnect the fuel line.
9. Remove the carburetor.
10. Remove the valve covers,
11. Remove the bolts and nuts from the inlet manifold,
separate the induction manifold from the gasket
and remove it.
12. Remove the gasket.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove all residual gasket fragments from the
mounting surfaces.
2. Apply sealing compound to the surfaces of the cy|-
inder heads as shown in the figure. Install the in-
duction manifold gasket. The protruding part of the
righthand cylinder head gasket shall enter the aper-
ture in the induction manifold gasket.
ASSEMBLED CYLINDER HEADS WITH MARKED SURFACES
FOR APPLICATION OF SEALING COMPOUND
3. Install the inlet manifold. Tighten the screws and
nuts in the sequence indicated below in two stages
to the correct torque.
Febr 1977
Up to and incl. engine No. 91279, the following tightening
torques must be applied:
Stage Screws Nuts |
f——-—- - | _ —_|— —_—_—— —
3.9-7.9 Nm 2.9—4.9 Nm
1 (2.9-5.8 ft.lb.) (2.23.6 ft.lb.)
(0.4—0.8 kpm) (0.3—0.5 kpm)
22-28Nm 15-18 Nm
2 (16-21 ft.Ib.) (11—13 ft.lb.)
| (2.2—2.9 kpm) (1.5—1.8 kpm)
As from engine No. 91280, the following tightening tor-
ques must be applied:
Stage Screws Nuts
3.9—7.9 Nm 3.9—7.9 Nm
1 (2.9—5.8 ft. lb.) (2.9—5.8 ft.Ib.)
(0.4—0.8 kpm) (0.4—0.8 kpm)
21—25 Nm 21—25 Nm
2 (15—18 ft.lb.) (15—18 ft.lb.)
(2.1—2.5 kpm) (2.1—2.5 kpm)
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE, INLET MANIFOLD BOLTS
To ensure effective sealing, the bolts must be tight-
ened in two stages to the prescribed torque in the
IMPORTANT
sequence indicated.
251~1
Page 196
Install the distributor in the engine block and ad-
just it in accordance with the instructions in group
3, section 342,
Install the valve covers, with new gaskets if neces-
sary. Tighten the bolts evenly to the prescribed tor-
que.
Install the distributor cap and attach the ignition
cables.
Install the carburetor.
Reconnect the fuel and vacuum lines.
Reconnect all water hoses.
Fill the system with coolant and bleed the system.
Reconnect the battery earth cable.
Install the air cleaner.
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Page 197
NOTE
Exhaust pipes of later design having no interme:
with the inter-
EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust system contains three main Parts: front diate suspension, is to be equipped
RELA Sea SATS ee mediate suspension shown in fig. in connection
with changing the exhaust system.
3. Disconnect the battery cables, preheater cover, snorkel
and air cleaner.
. Disconnect the starter motor cables.
3 1 2 5. Remove the nuts at the engine connections and the
clamps and brackets at the engine mountings. Remove
the spacers at the engine. Withdraw the clamps and
sleeves through the hole in the engine compartment
floor.
6. Remove the exhaust pipe clamp and separate the ex-
haust pipe from the muffler.
7. Lower the muffler so that the left-hand pipe rests on
top of the starter motor and the end of the pipe is
fixed against the engine block.
.=
S 5660
FRONT MUFFLER
1. Sleeve
2. Spacer
3. Clamp
4. Bracket
Removal
pees the aod LEFT-HAND PIPE FIXED AGAINST THE ENGINE BLOCK
2. Jack up the front of the car.
March 1979 SAAB 252-1
Page 198
CAUTION
del 1973, the guard pipes between ™ |
ing mo ’ C es
ot siaetiae and the spacers were disconti
ron
Id not be refitted when a muffler is re-
om plies to cars which previously
From this position, it is possible to withdraw the right-
hand pipe through the hole in the engine compartment
floor.
These
placed. This also aP
| had guard pipes.
| —
| ————
Assembly
d muffler pipe in the hole in the en-
t floor. Then move the right-hand
S adewacal the right-hand hole in the floor.
e ae lift the left-hand pipe over the start-
ee ards the engine block. From this position,
‘i sat onan pipe through the hole in the floor.
2 ae we steer for connection to the engine. Fit
, the spacers, position the muffler over the pin bolts
1, Insert the left-han
gine com
pipe forward to
ts.
and screw on the nu ;
i m and tighten the
RIGHT-HAND PIPE IS WITHDRAWN THROUGH THE HOLE 3. Fit the exhaust pipe to the muffler g
IN THE FLOOR clamp.
Loosely fit the brackets and clamps to the muffler
Pull the left-hand pipe of the muffler down and to the 4. : .
left. At the same time, rotate the muffler so that the pipe and engine ag ltl sisare tc clouttiiba Be
right-hand pipe is moved backwards under the car to- 5. Position the muffler so tha atten Hens
wards the left front wheel. tween the pipes and the edge of the hole |
and ensure that the muffler is clear of the sump.
Tighten the muffler, brackets and clamps.
6. Connect the starter motor cable, battery cables, pre-
heater cover, snorkel and air cleaner.
7. Lower the car and replace the hood.
Sealing between muffler and engine block
In the event of leakage between the muffler and the en-
gine block, tighten the bolts. If this doesn’t help, new
gaskets must be fitted. Tighten the bolts carefully to
avoid damaging the flanges.
Sealing between mufflers and exhaust pipe
RIGHT IANO PIPE & MOULE TOWABES TUR Cote cee In the event of leakage at the connection between the
WHEEL exhaust pipe and the front muffler or between the ex-
haust pipe and the rear muffler, carry out the following
The left-hand pipe can now be removed through the hole measures:
in the engine compartment floor. 1. Undo the clamp.
2.
Push the exhaust pipe into the
‘ muffler pipe connec-
tion,
- Check that the exhaust Pipe is not out of true, which
would cause stresses at the connections.
- Secure the clamp by tightening its bolt and nut. If
these measures Prove inadequate, check the align-
ment of the pipe and Straighten if necessary.
Crack i
ed exhaust Pipes or mufflers Must be replaced or
repaired b: :
stresses R28! ag i Sure that there are no residual
nt dj : .
LEFT-HAND PIPE IS REMOVED THROUGH THE HOLE IN welding, Stortions in these parts after
THE FLOOR
252-2 Sap
March 1979
Page 199
REAR MUFFLER
Removal
1, Jack up the R.H. side of the car. Remove the rear
wheel, and loosen the exhaust pipe clamp at the rear
muffler.
2. Up to and incl. model 1975: Back off the two upper
nuts by means of which the muffler is suspended.
REAR MUFFLER SUSPENSION, UP TO AND INCL. MODEL
1975
As from model 1976: Unhook the rubber suspension
from the hooks.
ssa
REAR MUFFLER SUSPENSION, AS FROM MODEL 1976
3. Detach the muffler from the exhaust pipe and remove
the muffler.
| Febr 1977
Installation
1. Pass the muffler onto the exhaust pipe. Don’t forget
the clamp.
2. Fit the muffler to the bracket on the wheel house
wall.
3. Tighten the clamp at the exhaust pipe connection to
the muffler.
4. Check that the exhaust system is not mounted under
tension, vibrations can in this case occur and give
noise in teh car body.
5. Start the engine and check for leaks.
6. Remount the rear wheel, and lower the car.
EXHAUST PIPE
Removal
Jack up the right side of the car before starting work.
1. Take off the right rear wheel and release the clamp
joining the exhaust pipe to the rear muffler.
2. Loosen the muffler suspensions at the body.
Up to and incl. model 1975: Back off and remove the
upper nuts with which the rear muffler is supended.
As from model 1976: Unhook the rubber suspensions
from the hooks. Pull the muffler off the exhaust pipe.
3. Undo the clamp joining the exhaust pipe to the front
muffler.
4. Up to and incl. model 1975: Back off and remove the
nuts with which the exhaust pipe is secured under the
floor.
5. Pull the exhaust pipe off the front muffler.
Reassembly
Reassembly takes place in the reverse order.
Make sure that the exhaust pipe is properly fitted in the
muffler pipe connections, thus ensuring effective sealing
when the clamps are tightened and precluding tension in
the rubber cushions at the floor plate. If the exhaust pipe
is mounted under tension, vibrations may easily develop
in the body of the car.
252-3
Page 200
Exhaust pipes of later design having no intermediate sus-
pension, are to be equipped with suspension kit 72 85 182.
Place the mounting 2.36 in. (60 mm) behind the rear edge
of the engine compartment floor.
2.36 in
,(60 mm)
Rear edge of engine
compartment floor
RUBBER CUSHIONS, UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1975
$ 6312
RUBBER CUSHIONS, EXHAUST SYSTEM, UP TO AND INCL
MODEL 1975 1
MODEL 1976
Removal
k is facilitated if the right side of the car is
right rear wheel removed.
haust pipe rubber cushions from the
s can be reached from inside the
5 folded back out of the way.
ts holding the rubber cush-
This wor
jacked up and the
1. Separate the ex
floor. The two nut
car if the rear mat!
2. Back off and remove the nu
ions to the exhaust pipe. .
3. Back off and remove the upper nuts holding the rear
muffler rubber cushions to the bracket on the wall of
the wheel house.
4. Back off and remove the nuts holding the rubber cush-
ions to the muffler. It may possibly be necessary also
to remove the muffler.
Reassembly
1. Fit the exhaust pipe rubber cushions under the floor.
2. Screw the rubber cushions onto the rear muffler.
3. Refit the muffler, together with the rubber cushions,
to the bracket on the wall of the wheel house.
4. Secure the exhaust pipe over the rubber cushions in
the floor. Make sure that it is not under tension.
RUBBER SUSPENSION, EXHAUST SYSTEM, AS FROM
MODEL 1976
The exhaust system is suspended at the rear by means of
two rubber suspension pieces located at the rear muffler.
S$ 5313
RU
BBER SUSPENSION, EXHAUST SYSTEM, AS FROM
_" SOARS
March 1979