Page 581
I git gS i Ce
SHOCK ABSORBERS
General
Defective shock absorbers should be exchanged. This is
extremely important, as the shock absorbers contribute
largely to the good roadholding and steering characteristics
of the car.
Shock absorbers on the same axle should be exchanged in
pairs.
Removal
1. Jack up the car and take off the wheel.
2. Unscrew the shock absorber, saving the washers and
rubber parts.
S$ 1760
SHOCK ABSORBER
Dec. 1975
Installation
Inspect the rubber parts and exchange any that are de-
fective. Use only original Saab rubber parts and washers at
the upper and lower attachment points when installing
shock absorbers; poorly fitting substitutes can cause body
noise when the car is on the road. Before a shock absorb-
er is installed, any air present in it must be expelled. To
bleed the shock absorber, hold it upright in the same po-
sition as when installed, pump it up and down for a few
full strokes, and then install it in the car. If the shock ab-
sorber is laid flat, more air can enter through the valve
system.
Fit rubber bushings and washers. Note the positions of
the washers as illustrated opposite. The nuts of the front
shock absorbers should be tightened hard, while those
on the back shock absorbers should be tightened enough
to provide suitable tension against the rubber bushings.
Checking of shock absorbers installed in car
Check the condition of the shock absorbers as follows:
1. Check for leakage of oil from the shock absorbers.
2. Check for external damage, extensive corrosion or
bends in the plungers.
3. Check that the nuts are tight.
. Check the condition of the rubber bushings.
5. Test the functioning of the shock absorbers by rock-
ing the car or in conjunction with test driving.
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761-1
Page 582
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Page 583
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WHEELS
Adjusting and repairing wheels
Wheels may be damaged in collisions or if the car runs off
the road or is driven on underinflated tires. As the tube-
less tires seal direct against the wheel rims, air will leak
out if the rim is deformed or otherwise damaged. If a leak
occurs due to rim deformation, the tire should be taken
off so that the wheel can be inspected and adjusted if
necessary. If the rim is rusty at the bead seating, the rust
must be removed; this can suitably be done with a steel
brush or a pad of steel wool. If rust has pitted the rim,
a file should be used. Any minor pits remaining after
adjustment should be coated with thick rubber solution;
the tire is then coated in the same way and mounted on
the wheel before the solution dries,
NOTE
Check before mounting the tire that the rim is not
out-of-round or out-of-true.
On a correctly journaled rotating rim, the difference be-
tween the highest and lowest point measured at A (see
BEA
$1761
MEASUREMENT POINTS ON THE WHEEL RIM
illustration) must not exceed 0.047” (1.2 mm). The side
throw B (see illustration) should be measured in the same
way and must not exceed 0.047" (1.2 mm).
When these measurements are made, the rim should be
mounted in the usual way, either on a wheel hub or in a
special apparatus, so that the rim can be rotated,
Tire maintenance
The working life of a tire depends very much on the care
it receives and the conditions under which it has to work.
Some of the factors affecting tire wear are listed below.
1. Inflation pressure. It is important to maintain the cor-
rect inflation pressure and to adjust the pressure ac-
cording to load. For correct tire pressures, see under
Specifications, group 0.
Dec. 1975
Correct Overinflated Underinflated
$1762
TREAD CONTACT WITH ROADWAY
2. Wheel balancing is necessary to avoid vibration and
consequent wear. Wheels must be balanced both stati-
cally and dynamically.
3. Wheel alignment. Faulty alignment fo the wheels can
cause heavy wear on the tires.
4. Speed. Tire mileage diminishes sharply with rising
speed, mainly due to the greater friction heat generated.
5. Engine power. Powerful engines give rapid acceleration
and high speed, which in turn demand powerful brakes.
This contributes to faster wear on the tires.
6. Road surface. Dry roads offering a good grip for the
tires cause a great deal of wear.
7. Manner of driving. The temperament of the driver may
weigh more heavily than any other factor. |f the accel-
eration and braking resources of the car are regularly
utilized to the limit, this will quickly wear down the
tires.
A statically balanced wheel should be able to come to rest
in any position when suspended and free to rotate.
A dynamically balanced wheel should rotate in a plane
perpendicular to the axis of rotation, i.e. it should have
no tendency to skew during rotation.
The balancing operation should not be performed on new
wheels, but only after some 600—900 miles (1.000—1.500
km) motoring; this is to give the tire time to “shake down”
on the rim.
Wheels need rebalancing after long mileage because tire
wear alters the distribution of weight.
NOTE
When a wheel spinner is used, the speedometer read-
ing must not exceed 40 mph (70 km/h).
771-1
Page 584
HUBS
Front wheel hubs
The hub and brake disc constitute two separate cast com-
ponents. The front wheel hub is splined to the outer
drive shaft and locked to it by a castle nut and split pin.
The bearing surface for the shaft seal on the inside of the
wheel hub must be protected against scratches and knocks
when the hub is removed from the shaft. If the bearing
surface is scratched or otherwise damaged, it must be
smoothed and polished. This work should be done on a
lathe, but the diameter of the bearing surface must not
be appreciably reduced. These precautions are important,
as the shaft seal will otherwise wear rapidly, permitting
grease to leak out of the steering knuckle housing on to
the brake disc and ruin the brake linings.
The inner rings of both front wheel bearings are seated
on the wheel hub. The bearing contact surfaces must be
protected against knocks and scratches, as it may other-
wise prove difficult or even impossible to mount the
front wheel bearings.
FRONT WHEEL HUB
. Castle nut
. Washer
Hub
. Outer shaft seal
BON=
5.
6.
We
8.
Wheel bearings
Spacer sleeve
Inner shaft seal
Outer drive shaft
774-1 SAAB
S$ 1752
April 1969
Page 585
Wheel bearings
Changing front wheel bearings
Wheel bearings may, especially if not properly lubricated
or badly fitted, become so worn that they develop play.
If the play measured at the wheel rim exceeds 0.08”
(2 mm), the wheel bearing must be renewed. Under no
circumstances must wheel bearings be subjected to im-
pact, as this may damage them.
If abnormal play in the front-wheel bearings is found in
new cars or after new bearings have been fitted, check
first that the castellated axle nut is tightened to the cor-
rect torque of 196 Nm (20 kpm, 145 ft.lb.).
If tightening the nut to the correct torque fails to elimi-
nate the play, this indicates that the accumulated toler-
ances of the components involved is such that a shorter
spacer sleeve must be fitted. The standard spacer sleeve
should in such cases be replaced by sleeve 891796, which
is 0.003"’ (0.08 mm) shorter and marked with yellow
paint.
NOTE
Use only original special bearings as listed in the
Spare Parts Catalogue.
Bearings should preferably be exchanged as com-
plete sets, inner and outer bearings together.
Removing old bearings
1. Take off the hub cap, remove the split pin and
castle nut, and slacken the wheel nuts.
2. Block up the front of the car on trestles and re-
move the wheel.
3. Remove the brake housing and hang it up to avoid
strain on the brake hose. Remove the brake disc.
If the disc is difficult to remove, use ring 899579
and puller 899518.
REMOVING THE BRAKE DISC
Tools 899518, 899524 and 899579
Place the ring so that the raised part fits in the
recess on the brake drum and tighten the screw.
Fasten the puller at the ring with the aid of two
spacer screws, tool 899524, and pull off the brake
drum. See fig. Remove the handbrake cable.
Dec. 1975
REMOVING THE UPPER BALL JOINT
Tool 899540
REMOVING THE STEERING ARM
Tool 899540
4. Undo the large clamp round the rubber bellows of
the inner universal joint.
5. Remove the steering arm and upper ball joint using
tool 899540. Undo the screws on the lower con-
trol arm bracket.
When separating the inner universal joint, fit a cover in
the rubber bellows to stop the needle bearings from falling
out and to keep dirt out of the joint, and fit a cover over
the inner driver.
6. Pull out the drive shaft through the wheel housing,
remove the entire front axle assembly and clean it
thoroughly. Loosen the outer universal joint bellows
and move the bellows along the shaft.
774-2
Page 586
7. Press out the drive shaft with tool 899518, see fig.
REMOVING THE OUTER BEARING FROM THE HUB
Tools 899517, 899518 and 899525
10. Break out the inner and outer seal rings with a
REMOVING THE SHAFT screwdriver or similar tool (the rings cannot be
Tool 899518 removed intact) and lift out the inner ring of the
inner bearing.
|
8. If the hub is stuck in the bearings, turn the steering
knuckle housing upside down and press out the hub
with tool 899518, spacer bolts 899524 and dolly
899517.
\ BREAKING OUT THE SEAL RING
Ne”
REMOVING THE HUB
S317
Tools 899518, 899524 and 899517 11. Press the outer rings of the inner and outer bearings
9. If the outer bearing has stuck to the hub, use tools out of the steering knuckle housing using tool
899517, 899518 and 899525 839029.
774-3 SAAB Dec. 1975
Page 587
Ll Th, ee, pe
REMOVING THE OUTER RINGS OF THE BEARINGS
Too! 839029
Installation
Before beginning assembly, clean and inspect all front axle
components and exchange any worn or damaged parts for
new ones. Check the rubber bellows with special care.
NOTE
New seal rings must be fitted every time the hub
unit is reassembled, as the old rings are destroyed in
the process of disassembling.
1. Press the outer rings of the bearings into the steering
knuckle housing using tool 839031. Make sure that
the rings are properly seated.
Dec. 1975 SAAB
PRESSING IN THE OUTER RINGS OF THE BEARINGS
Tool 839031
IMPORTANT |
The surfaces in contact with the outer rings of the
bearings must be absolutely clean, as any dirt will
interfere with the play of the bearings, etc. Use a
wooden board as a support to avoid damage to the
end face of the steering knuckle housing. By
2. Fill about half the space between the two outer rings
with Saab Special chassis grease. Grease and fit the
bearing inner rings and spacer sleeve in the steering
knuckle housing.
774-4
Page 588
FITTING THE INNER RINGS OF THE BEARINGS
3. Grease the inner and outer sealing rings well and press
them in flush with the outer edge of the steering
knuckle housing, using tool 839031.
PRESSING IN THE SEAL RING
Tool 839031
4. Mount the front axle assembly in a press and press the
outer drive shaft into the steering knuckle housing (see
illustration).
ASSEMBLING DRIVE SHAFT AND HUB
5. Put on the castle nut, tighten it to a torque of 196 Nm
(145 ft.lb., 20 kpm). Check that there is no play. If so
the accumulated tolerances in the parts involved can
be such that a shorter spacer sleeve must be fitted. In
that case, remove the parts and change the spacer
sleeve to the shorter, yellow-marked one. Re-install
in the same way. Lock the castle nut with a split pin.
Pack the joint with grease, fit both clamps on the outer
bellows and the shaft clamp on the inner bellows. If the
needle bearings have been removed, grease them with
Saab Special chassis grease and mount them on the
ends of the tee piece. Fit protective cover in the bel-
lows to protect the needle bearings and insert the
drive shaft through the wheel housing. Make sure that
the inner driver is clean and packed with Saab Special
chassis grease. Assemble the inner universal joint. Fit
both ball bolts to the steering knuckle housing and
tighten them to the prescribed torque. Then secure
the clamp round the drive joint bellows,
6. Mount the brake disc, connect the handbrake cable
and fit the brake housing.
7. Mount the steering arm and the wheel.
8. Lower the car, tighten the wheel nuts securely and
fit the hub cap.
NOTE
The sealing rings must not be pressed right home, as
they will then foul the bearing and be destroyed by
wear in a very short time.
CAUTION
The brake pads must be advanced to their proper
position close to the disc, which is done by pump-
ing the brake pedal repeatedly. Otherwise the brake
will not work.
774-5
Dec. 1975
Page 589
Back wheel hubs
Each rear wheel hub is journaled on two tapered roller
bearings, both of the same type. On disassembling, the
hub is removed complete with bearings and shaft seal.
4
SE
$1773
BACK WHEEL HUB
1. Hub 3. Seal ring
2. Wheel bearings 4. Wheel screw
Removal
Wash thoroughly under the fenders before starting work
and scrape off any dirt that could fall into the bearings.
1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
CAUTION
rear axle, as this is liable to deform the axle.
It is absolutely forbidden to apply the jack under the
2. Remove the brake housing and brake disc.
Dec. 1975
BRAKE HOUSING HUNG UP DURING WORK ON THE WHEEL
NOTE
The brake housing must be supported to avoid dam-
age to the brake pipe.
3. Prize out the cap with a screwdriver.
4, Remove the nut and washer. Earlier cars are provided
with a castle nut, secured with a split pin. Later cars
are provided with a lock nut, secured by upsetting.
5. Pull off the hub; if necessary, use puller 899518.
6. Break out the seal ring with a screwdriver (it cannot
be removed intact) and remove the inner rings of both
bearings.
7. Place a suitable drift in the three milled recesses in the
hub and drive out the outer bearing rings. While doing
this, it is advisable to place a wooden board under the
hub to avoid deforming the end faces.
Installation
Clean and inspect all parts carefully, and renew any that
are worn or damaged. A new seal ring must always be
fitted.
IMPORTANT
Even though both tapered roller bearings are the same
size, the inner and outer bearings must not be inter-
changed, as they wear themselves into a given fit after
a time in use.
774-6
Page 590
1. Press the outer rings of the bearings into the hub using
drift 899516.
PRESSING IN THE BEARING OUTER RINGS
Tool 899516
2. Fill half the space between the outer rings with Saab
Special chassis grease and grease the inner rings.
3. Locate the inner ring of the inner bearing and fit a
new shaft seal, which should first be lubricated with
grease or thick oil.
PRESSING IN THE SEAL RING
Tool 899516
774-7 SADE
. Check that the bearing surface for the seal ring on the
stub axle is perfectly smooth. If it is damaged, it must
be smoothed and polished with a very fine emery cloth.
Lubricate the bearing surface with consistent grease.
. Fit the hub to the stub axle, insert the inner ring of
the outer bearing and mount the washer and nut.
Castle nut: Tighten the nut until the wheel be-
gins to bind when rotated, and then slacken the nut
again until the wheel again turns freely and the wash-
er is loose but without play. Mount the split pin.
Lock nut: Tighten the lock nut to a torque of 36 ft.Ib.
(49 Nm/5 kpm). Then slacken the nut completely.
Finally tighten the nut to a torque of 1.4—2.9 ft.lb.
(2—4 Nm/0.2—0.4 kpm).
If the old securing at the nut flange will be at the
locking groove, change the nut. Secure the nut by up-
setting the flange in the locking groove, using a round-
ed drift so that cracks will not occur when securing.
UPPSETTING THE FLANGE OF THE LOCKING NUT
. Fit the cap.
. Mount the brake disc, brake housing, wheel and wheel
nuts,
CAUTION
The brake pads must be advanced to their proper
position close to the disc, which is done by pump-
ing the brake pedal repeatedly. Otherwise the
brake will not work.
. Lower the rear of the car, tighten the wheel nuts se-
curely and fit the hub cap.
Dec. 1975