Page 561
Changing rubber bellows up to and incl. model 1969
If the steering gear rubber bellows are damaged they must
be renewed immediately, as dirt may otherwise enter the
steering gear mechanism and cause it to stick.
1. Jack up the front of the car and take off the wheel.
2. Disconnect the tie-rod end assemblies as described in
section 643.
3. Undo the clamps securing the rubber bellows to the
steering gear housing and tie rod respectively and pull
off the bellows. It may be necessary to remove the air
cleaner and alternator to get at the large clips on the
steering gear.
4. Clean out the old grease and repack with fresh grease.
Slip a new rubber bellows over the joint and secure
with clips, but not so tightly that the tie rod cannot be
rotated in the bellows.
5. Mount the tie-rod end assembly and connect it to the
steering arm.
6. Adjust the toe-in as described in section 601, then
tighten the lock nut.
Changing rubber bellows as from model 1970 up to and
incl. the 1972 model
Changing the right hand side rubber bellows is done ac-
cording to the above description. If the left hand side
bellows is to be changed, the steering gear must be re-
moved. See section “Removing the steering gear’’.
Sept. 1973
Changing rubber bellows, as from model 1973
If either of rubber bellows needs renewing, the steering
gear must be removed and both rubber bellows renewed.
At the same time the steering gear must be drained and
refilled with fresh oil.
To drain:
Remove the steering gear and stand it on end until the
oil has run out.
To refill:
Lubricate the contact area between the rubber bellows
and tie rod with silicone grease when fitting the bellows.
Fit all clamps except one of the outboard ones. Stand
the steering gear assembly on end and pour in 5 fl.oz.
0.15 dm3 (1.5 dl) of EP 90 oil between the rubber
bellows and tie rod, using an oil can. Fit the remaining
clamp and make sure that the threads of the outboard
clamping screws are protected by rubber caps.
642-10
Page 562
TIE-ROD END ASSEMBLIES
General
The outer ball joints, the tie-rod end assemblies, are
screwed on to the tie rods and secured by lock nuts. By
backing off the lock nuts and twisting the tie rods clock-
wise or counterclockwise, it is possible to reduce or ex-
tend the length of the tie rod. This is how the toe-in of
the front wheels is adjusted.
The tie rod is connected to the steering arm of the steering
knuckle housing by a tapered ball bolt, which is secured
by a self-locking nut. The tie-rod end assemblies cannot
be disassembled; they adjust themselves to moderate wear
and therefore: seldom need exchanging.
However, damage caused by external force, as in a colli-
sion or crash, may make it necessary to renew both the
tie rods and end assemblies. These components are vital
to vehicle safety and must therefore be checked over with
the utmost care if there is any reason to suspect that they
are damaged or bent.
Changing tie-rod end assemblies
The tie-rod end assemblies cannot be disassembled and
must therefore be exchanged complete if they have worn
loose.
1. Jack up the front of the car and take off the wheel.
2. Remove the nut.
3. Disconnect the ball bolt from the steering arm using
puller 899540 (see illustration). Do not knock the
ball bolt out, as this is liable to damage the ball bolt
and other parts.
—
$1764
DISCONNECTING THE STEERING ARM FROM THE TIE ROD
Too! 899540
643-1 SAAB
4. Back off the nut that locks the end assembly to the
tie rod.
5. Unscrew the end assembly from the tie rod.
6. Screw a new end assembly on to the tie rod, byt do
not lock it by tightening the nut yet.
7. Connect the ball bolt to the steering arm. Mount the
nut and tighten it to a torque of 35-50 Nm (25-36
ft.lb., 3.5—5.0 kpm).
8. Mount the wheel and lower the car.
9. Check and adjust the toe-in (see section 601).
IMPORTANT
Do not forget to tighten the lock nut on the tie rod
after adjusting.
Changing rubber bellows
Each ball joint is protected by a rubber bellows. If this
is damaged and no longer makes a tight seal, it must be
exchanged. The procedure is as follows:
1. Jack up the car and take off the wheel.
2. Remove the nut under the ball bolt of the tie-rod end
assembly.
3. Free the ball bolt from the steering arm, using puller
899540 (see illustration). Do not attempt to knock
the bolt out, as this is liable to damage both the
bolt and other parts.
4. Remove the damaged bellows from the ball bolt and
fit a new bellows.
5. Connect the ball bolt to the steering arm and put on
the nut, tightening it with a torque wrench to 35—50
Nm (25—36 ft.lb., 3.5—5.0 kpm).
6. Put on the wheel and lower the car.
Dec. 1975
Page 563
fr
J
POWER STEERING GEAR
POWER STEERING GEAR
1. Servo pump 4. Steering gear
2. V-belt 5. Oil tank
3. Servo valve
Components
5
Oil tank, located on the right side of the engine com-
partment near the rear of the wheel housing. The ca-
pacity of the hydraulic system is 1.2 US quarts, 1.2
dm (litres).
2. Oil pump, located under the exhaust manifold, driven
by a V-belt from the crankshaft.
The pump has built-in flow control and an overflow
regulator. This means that the flow increases as the
pressure increases. Max. pressure: 56.25 bar (kp/cm2).
Max. flow: 8.18 US quarts/min, dm3/min (/min).
3. Delivery hose between pump and servo unit which is
reinforced with textile fibre cord to resist the high
pressures occurring in the hose.
4. Steering gear with power assistance unit, attached to
the engine brackets with a yoke on the right and with
bolts on the left.
Dee. 1975 SAU
S 4077
Page 564
The servo valve is located between the steering column
and the pinion. The valve consists of a torsion rod con-
nected to the steering column and a valve which reacts
to the twist of the torsion bar. The valve controls the
flow of oil to each side of the servo piston, which is
connected to the rack.
Driving straight ahead
SERVO VALVE FUNCTION
A Servo pressure from the oil pump
B_ Return to oil reservoir
Turning to the right
$ 4078
C To the servo cylinder (power assistance for turning right)
D To the servo cylinder (power assistance for turning left)
The seals separate the hydraulic servo system of the
steering gear from the mechanical gearing and the inner
ball joints.
The gear section and the inner ball joints are oiled sepa-
rately. A bleeder line joins the two sides of the steer-
ing gear and enables lubricating oil to bypass the hydrau-
lic section. The steering gear contains 6.5 fl.oz., 0.19
dm3 (1.9 dl) of oil.
Servo pressure
+ 50 Bar (kp/cm2)
l i 1 a 1 1
WARNING
The oil pump can be damaged by the following
causes:
1. If the steering wheel is kept against one of the
end positions with a strong torque and the en-
gine is running at the same time can the oil pump
be overheated and damaged.
2. If the heat guard at the exhaust manifold is re-
moved, the cooling of the pump can be unsuffi-
cient.
3. If dirt is entering the hydraulic system, for exam-
ple when checking or filling oil.
4. \f the pump is allowed to run without oil in the
hydraulic system.
50 40 30 20 10
DIAGRAM STEERING WHEEL TORQUE —
SERVO PRESSURE
644-2 SAAB
Oo 10
Steering wheel torque
20 30 40 50 Kpom
Sept. 1973
Page 565
Removal and installation of the power steering gear
Removal
1. Jack up the front end of the car.
. Remove the front wheels.
3. Detach the tie-rod end assemblies from the control
arms using tool 899540. Unscrew the left tie-rod end
assembly from the tie rod.
4. Turn the steering wheel a full turn to the left. Re-
move the left cover under the instrument panel and
move up the rubber bellows to expose the double
joint.
5. Undo the clamp screw on the steering column.
6. Undo the delivery hose on the pump, hold the hexagonal
Nn
$4028
nipple at the pump steady. Plug the hose and the hole on BEND THE LEFT TIE ROD DOWN THROUGH THE OPEN-
the pump. ING IN THE BODY
7. Remove the return hose from the tube. Plug the hose
and the tube. 11. Take the steering gear out down and to the right.
DELIVERY AND RETURN HOSES DETACHED AND PLUGGED
REMOVE THE STEERING GEAR FROM THE CAR
8. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmis-
sion. bi
9. Undo the steering gear body attachments: Ha
Left side: Undo the two retaining screws and remove
the intermediate piece.
Right side: Remove the yoke and intermediate piece.
Move the steering gear down slightly so the clamp
screw holding the double joint to the steering gear
can be removed. Remove the double joint.
10. Move the steering gear over to the right far enough so Installation
that the left tie rod can be bent down through the
Opening in the body (see the figure) while twisting During the installation of the power steering gear, the
the valve housing backwards. left tie-rod end assembly should be removed and the rack
Sept. 1973 SAAB 644-3
Page 566
should be moved all the way over to the right. The deliv-
ery hose and the return tube should be attached and
plugged with protective plugs (see fig.).
$4010
STEERING GEAR READY FOR INSTALLATION
1. Move the steering gear up to the right through the
bottom opening in the body with the valve hous-
ing pointing backwards. Turn the valve housing
upwards through the body opening and lift the
steering gear over to the right so that the left tie
rod can be bent up.
2. Put the steering gear in place and make sure that
the speedometer cable and the handbrake cables
are in the right position. Fit the double joint to
the steering shaft. Make sure the clamp screw fits
in the groove on the shaft.
3. Fit the intermediate pieces, yoke and bolts and
tighten the steering gear.
Connect the speedometer cable. F
Connect the delivery hose to the hydraulic pump.
Connect the return hose to the tube.
Fit the rubber bellows and the cover under the in-
strument panel.
Attach the left tie-rod end assembly and attach the
end assemblies to the control arms with new lock
nuts.
9. Mount the wheels and jack down the car.
10. Adjust the toe-in, if necessary, the steering wheel.
11. Fill the servo unit with oil (see group 1).
sons
9
Disassembling and assembling the power steering gear
Before disassembly, wash the steering gear thoroughly
on the outside. When working on the servo-assisted steer-
ing gear, cleanliness is of the utmost importance. Be es-
pecially careful of the servo valve and the sealing surfaces
on the rack.
Disassembly
1. Back off the lock nut and remove the tie-rod end
assemblies.
2. Loosen the clamps and take off the rubber bellows.
3. Bend up the lock plate between the end piece and
the rack.
644-4 SAAB
IMPORTANT
When the end piece is loosened and tightened, the
torque in the rack must not be taken up by the pin-
ion,
The rack must not be clamped in the servo end.
Clamp the rack in the toothed end with suitable
soft jaws (wooden blocks).
The end piece (tie rod with ball joint) should not
be disassembled. If the tie rod or ball joint is dam-
aged, the whole end piece must be replaced.
4. Clamp the toothed end of the rack in a vice be-
tween two wooden blocks and unscrew the end
pieces with key 899599. Set the spring and washer
aside.
THE END PIECES ARE REMOVED FROM THE RACK
Tool 899599
5. Undo the lock nut for the radial adjustment of
the rack and undo the adjusting screw. Remove
the adjusting screw retaining plate, the spring, the
O-ring and the plunger.
6. Remove the tubes between the servo valve and
the two sides of the servo cylinder.
7. Undo the three lock nuts and detach the valve
housing and servo valve with pinion. Keep the
servo valve in a clean plastic bag.
8. Remove the locking screw for the ring nut with a
hexagon wrench.
REMOVING THE RING NUT LOCKING SCREW
Dec, 1975
Page 567
Clamp the steering gear end in a vice and remove
the ring nut with C spanner 899596.
REMOVING THE RING NUT
Tool 899596
10.
Remove the steering gear end from the cylinder
and the rack while removing the bleeder tube.
Set aside the loose cone in the hole for the oil
tube. Remove the sealing ring, washer and servo
seal from the steering gear end.
REMOVING THE STEERING GEAR END FROM THE
CYLINDER
nae
Pull the rack out of the steering gear housing.
Remove the knurled sleeve, the servo seal and
the washer from the cylinder. Remove the plunger
seal and snap ring.
NOTE
The plunger cannot be detached from the rack.
12.
Dec. 1975
If the pinions needle bearing shows signs of wear,
it should be removed into the steering gear hous-
ing. Inspect and replace damaged components. Re-
place all seals, lock plates and gaskets between the
valve housing and the steering gear housing. The
rubber bellows should also be replaced.
Assembly
1. Apply Loctite to the needle bearing seat and push
in the needle bearing, if it has been removed.
2. a. Fit the snap ring and new teflon ring on the rack
plunger.
b. Slide the knurled sleeve onto the rack.
c. Fit the servo seal on the fitting sleeve using the
cone. (Special tools 899593 and 899594). Slide
the sleeve with seal past the teeth on the rack.
Remove the tool. Turn the notch in the seal
towards the servo plunger.
says
SLIDE THE SERVO SEAL ONTO THE FITTING SLEEVE
USING THE FITTING CONE
Tools 899593 and 899594
SLIDE THE FITTING SLEEVE WITH SEAL PAST THE
TEETH ON THE RACK
SNES 644-5
Page 568
d. Slide the washer onto the rack.
Son
PUSH THE RACK WITH WASHER, SERVO SEAL, SLEEVE
AND PLUNGER SEALS INTO THE SERVO CYLINDER
$4039
LOCKING THE CONE IN PLACE WITH A SPECIAL SCREW
Tool 899595
3. Push the rack into the servo cylinder until the
knurled sleeve can be seen in the hole for the tube
connection. Use a screwdriver to turn the sleeve e. Screw fitting cone 899598 onto the rack end
to expose its threaded hole. Screw in the connect- and fit the steering gear end onto the rack and
ing screw temporarily to hold the washer in place. servo cylinder while inserting the vent tube. The
(Do not tighten the screw all the way or the rack cylindrical portion of the cone fits into the U-
may be damaged.) shaped recess in the end of the servo cylinder.
Tighten the ring nut with a torque wrench con-
nected to special tool 899596 with a torque of
120-125 ft.lb. (16.5—17.5 kpm, 165—175 Nm),
corresponding to a torque of 130—135 ft.Ib.
(18—19 kpm, 180—190 Nm) at the nut. Lock
the nut with the socket head screw.
TURN UP THE HOLE IN THE KNURLED SLEEVE
4. Fit the steering gear end as follows:
a. Fit the servo seal in its seat. Turn notch in the
seal towards the servo plunger.
b. Put on the washer. Turn the smaller diameter of
the washer towards the servo seal. FITTING THE STEERING GEAR END. THE RACK END IS
c. Fit the seal with the square profile. FITTED WITH FITTING CONE
d. Put the cone into the tube connection hole and Tool 899598
lock the cone using special tool 899595. The
cylindrical part of the cone (inside the steering
gear end) serves to fix the position of the steer-
ing gear end in relation to the servo cylinder.
644-6 SAAB Dec. 1975
Page 569
5. Fit the washer and the seal between the pinion and
the servo valve in the steering gear housing.
6. Fit the servo valve in the gear housing.
$4041
FITTING THE SERVO VALVE
7. Fit the gasket between the valve housing and the
steering gear housing. Fit the sealing ring, plastic
washer and lock ring in the valve housing. Place
the fitting tool 899597 over the shaft end of the
valve. Fit the valve housing. Tighten the lock nuts
with a torque of 16.6 ft.lb. (2.3 kpm, 23 Nm).
FITTING THE VALVE HOUSING. THE VALVE SHAFT IS
FITTED WITH FITTING CONE
Too! 899597
8. Remove tool 899595 from the connection hole in
the steering gear end. Fit the tubes between the
servo valve and the two sides of the cylinder. Fit
new gaskets on the banjo cinnection of the shorter
tube to the cylinder.
9. Fit plunger, O-ring, spring, cover, adjusting screw
and lock nut for the radial adjustment of the rack.
Dec, 1975
RADIAL ADJUSTMENT OF THE RACK
10.
11.
Clamp the toothed end of the rack in a vice be-
tween two wooden blocks and fit the complete
end pieces with thrust washer, spring and lock
washer. Tighten the end piece with a torque of
42.6—59.1 ft.lb. (5.9-6.8 kpm, 59-68 Nm), cor-
responding to a torque of 47.0—54.2 ft.|b. (6.5—
7.5 kpm, 65—75 Nm) at the end piece. Lock the
washer.
Adjust the radial play of the rack as follows:
a. Screw in the adjusting screw all the way until
the resistance of the twisting steering gear is
felt.
b. Back off the adjusting screw 1/6 turn.
c. Check that the steering gear can be turned from
lock to lock in both directions without jamming.
d. Tighten the lock nut with a torque of 50—60
ft.lb. (7.0-8.3 kpm, 70—83 Nm).
ADJUSTING THE RADIAL PLAY OF THE RACK
12.
13.
Fit the rubber bellows. Fit all clamps except one
at one of the tie rods. Hold the steering gear verti-
cal and using an oil can, inject 6.5 fl.oz., 0.19 dm?
(1.9 di) of EP 90 oil between the bellows and tie
rod, Fit the clamp.
Fit lock nuts and tie-rod end assemblies.
Page 570
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