Page 481
Disassembling and checking the governor
(Transmission in car)
1, Jack up the car. Remove the small cover (two slotted
screws) and let the oil run out (about 1 pint = 1/2
liter).
2. Revolve the wheels so that the governor's two retain-
ing screws are accessible.
3. Undo the retaining screws so that the governor can
be removed.
$4100
CHECKING THAT THE VALVE IS NOT STUCK
5. Replace the governor and cover.
THE GOVERNOR SCREWS ARE REMOVED
4. Check that the governor valve moves freely; i.e. that
the valve moves when the governor is shaken.
If the valve is stuck it must be disassembled and the
Parts thoroughly cleaned. Check afterwards that the
valve does not stick when it is turned and moved to-
and-fro in its seating. Scratches on the valve can be
smoothed with a whetstone or fine emery cloth. Be-
fore the parts are reassembled they should be lubri-
cated with automatic transmission oil.
If any parts of the governor need replacing note that
there are two different types. The new type is fitted
as from transmission No. TB 2849.
Sept. 1973 SAAB 472-21
Page 482
Valve housing
At the moment there are two different types of valve
housing. Complete valve housings of both types are com-
pletely interchangeable.
VALVE HOUSING DISASSEMBLED
1. Primary regulator valve 7. Modulator valve
2. Secondary regulator valve 8. Manual valve
3. Carrier and cam for kickdown valve 9. Shift valve for 1st—2nd gear
4. Kickdown and throttle valve 10, Shift valve for 2nd—3rd gear
5. Lower part of valve housing 11. Upper part of valve housing
6. Servo orifice control valve \
Dismantling
NOTE: All work on the valve housing should preferably
be done in a diesel test room or clean room of equivalent
standard.
1. Undo both carrier screws and the cam for the downshift
valve.
$2679
VALVE HOUSING
1. Screws, carrier for down-
shift valve cam
2. Downshift valve cam
472-22 SAAB Sept. 1973
Page 483
Pull out the manual valve.
3. Separate the upper and lower sections of the valve
housing by removing six screws from the top and twa
screws from the bottom and the four screws for the
manual valve lever bracket.
4. Undo the eight screws securing the oil tube plate.
5. Remove the throttle valve stop. Then pull out the
downshift valve, spring and throttle valve.
6. Remove the servo orifice control valve stop and pull
out the valve.
7. Remove the pin retaining the modulator valve plug and
take out the plug, valve, piston and spring.
8. Undo the three screws from the end plate and take
out the primary regulator valve spring, sleeve and valve
and the secondary regulator valve.
X
LOCATION OF STOP WASHER AND DETENT WASHER
“ 1, Stop washer
; 2. Detent washer
7. Screw the top and bottom housing sections together.
8. Fit the manual valve.
9. Fit the detent spring carrier and the downshift valve
cam.
a : 2680
REMOVING END COVER
9. Remove the screws from the cover on the top section
of the valve housing and take out the 1—2 and 2—3
shift valves.
Assembling the valve body
NOTE: Before assembling, make sure that all components
are thoroughly clean and free from scratches. If the valves
are scratched they can be smoothed with a fine emery
cloth. Small lengtwise scratches in the housing can be
tolerated, but if the scratches are big enough to be felt
distinctly with the fingernails, the housing must be ex-
changed. Small scratches running right round the cylinder
can be tolerated. Check that the valves move freely in their
cylinders.
When the valve spring are removed, the valves should
move due to their own weight when the valve housing
is tilted. Rotate the valves and check that they do not
stick in any position.
1. Dip the valves in automatic transmission oil before in-
serting them.
2. Mount the secondary regulator valve and spring.
3. Fit the primary regulator valve with sleeve and spring.
4. Fit the modulator valve, spring, valve and plug and
secure with the pin.
5. Fit the servo orifice control valve with spring and stop. $3000
6. Fit the throttle valve with spring and stop and the
downshift valve with spring. See illustration.
LOCATION OF BALL VALVE IN VALVE HOUSING OF
LATER DESIGN
Sept. 1973 SAAB 472-23
Page 484
Disassembly and assembly of valve housing
(Transmission in car)
Disassembling
. Jack up the car and remove the guard plate.
2. Drain the oil and clean carefully round the forward
bottom cover. If the car is rocked a further quantity
of oil will run out from the rear part of the transmis-
sion.
3. Remove the forward bottom cover.
LIFTING OUT THE VALVE HOUSING
7. Remove the large suction pipe from the pump. Check
the O-ring
FORWARD BOTTOM COVER REMOVED
4. Disconnect all the oil pipes.
5. Disconnect the throttle wire. Check that the pressure pipe from the oil pump to
the valve housing has not been deformed. Compare
the pipe in question with a new one.
DISCONNECTING THE THROTTLE WIRE
$4098
6. Undo the three valve housing retaining screws. The
valve housing should now only be supported by the
Pressure pipe from the oil pump. Lift out the valve
housing.
CHECKING THE OIL PIPE
472-24 SAAB Sept. 1973
Page 485
Assembling
1. Fit the large suction pipe (with a fault-free O-ring)
together with the pressure pipe into the oil pump.
Both pipes are secured with a clip.
SUCTION PIPE AND PRESSURE PIPE CONNECTED TO THE
OIL PUMP
2. The small pipe which provides the torque converter
with oil pressure and the pressure pipe are also
attached with a clip. These pipes must be in line
with each other.
3. Lift up the valve housing. Guide both the pipes
into their respective holes in the valve housing.
The pipes must go freely into the valve housing.
If force is used during assembly, the pressure pipe
will be deformed.
4. Tighten the three retaining screws.
SCREWING ON THE VALVE HOUSING
5. Check with the help of a small mirror that the
pipes are in place.
S410
THE PIPE CONNECTIONS ARE CHECKED WITH THE AID
OF AMIRROR
6. Fit the throttle cable and make sure that it is
correctly placed on the blade wheel.
7. Then continue with the fitting of the pipes. Various
problems can arise, and we therefore suggest that
you refer to the diagram in the Service Manual
(page 472—13), which can be of great help.
8. Start with pipe No. 4. It is necessary to feel around
for the hole in the transmission housing, as it is
difficult to remove the side cover with the trans-
mission in the car.
PIPE NO. 41S INSTALLED
9. Then fit pipe No. 5, which must not be confused
with pipe No. 11, in the valve housing. In the case
of later transmissions the hole in the valve housing
has been moved to facilitate fitting.
Sept. 1973 SARE 472-25
Page 486
13, Check that the bottom cover is not deformed at
the screw holes. If such is the case it must be
straightened.
14, Fit the bottom cover with a new gasket without
adhesive.
PIPE NO. 5 IS INSTALLED
10. If the diagram is followed the remaining pipes
should not present any difficulty in fitting.
11. Do not forget to place the little magnet above
pipes No. 11 and 12.
THE BOTTOM COVER IS INSTALLED
15. Screw on the guard plate.
16. Fill with oil to correct level.
17. Adjust the oil pressure with the throttle cable.
atad
THE MAGNET IS PUT IN PLACE
12. Secure the filter to the suction pipe.
THE FILTER IS SECURED TO THE SUCTION PIPE
472-26 SAAB Sept. 1973
Page 487
Dismantling the oil pump
S 2681
OIL PUMP DISASSEMBLED
+ Pump housing
. Back plate
Pump gears
Pump housing, front
Screw
|. Slotted head screw
PAPwWN>
1. Undo the five screws and the slotted head screw hold-
ing the pump housing together and separate the hous-
ing.
2. Check that the back plate is free from scratches and
otherwise undamaged.
3. Mark the pump gears with a pencil or similar and re-
move them.
4. Check that the pump gears are free from scratches and
other damage.
5. Check the bearing in the pump housing and the seal.
es
Assembling the oil pump
Reassemble in the reverse order. Use tool 879024 to cen-
ter the pump.
) Check the O-ring on the outside of the housing.
OIL PUMP
1, Tool for centering the pump at assembling, 879024
2. O-ring
3. Housing
Changing the off pump bail bearing
1. Remove the lock ring.
2. Tap the narrow end of the shaft gently with a plastic
maltet to free the shaft with the bearing.
3. Knock off tne bearing with a piece of tubing of 1.46”
(37 mm) inner diameter and 5.9” (150 mm) long.
4. Reassemble in the reverse order.
Jan. 1973 SAAB 472-27
S.C aT
Page 488
Changing the oil pump seal ring
Remove the seal with a screwdriver. Fit the new sea!
using too! 879016.
Note that this seal has to withstand the system pressure;
thus care must be taken when assembling the oil pump
and torque converter,
Disassembling and assembling the oi! pump
(Transmission in car)
Disassembly
Valid only in cars with 1,7 or 1,85 | engines
1.
NOS
10.
a4:
Jack up the car, remove the guard plate and drain
the oil.
Remove the front bottom cover and disassemble
all the oil pipes. Undo the throttle wire.
Undo the three valve housing retaining screws and
remove the valve housing. Disconnect the suction
and pressure pipes from the oil pump.
Remove the hood.
Remove front plate and radiator.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold.
Undo the transmission from its anchorage on the
front engine pad. Place a block of wood under the
transmission, raise it with a jack and remove the en-
gine pad.
Then raise the transmission to such an extent that
the lower screws of the front cover can be undone.
Remove the front transmission cover.
Remove the upper sprocket and chain.
Undo the three oil pump retaining screws and re-
move the oil pump.
REMOVING THE OIL PUMP
472-28
Assembly
Fit the oil pump. This is made easier if the torque
converter forks are in a vertical position. The oil
pump cog should be turned so that it can be easily
fitted into the forks. Note! Be careful that the seal
ring is not damaged when fitting the oil pump.
inte skadas,
THE TORQUE CONVERTER FORKS IN VERTICAL POSITION
10.
11.
12.
13.
14,
15.
16.
Replace the chain and sprocket and tighten the
sprocket to the correct torque of 26—33 Nm (19—
24 ft.lb., 2.6—3.3 kpm).
Fit the front cover. Use a new gasket.
Fit the front engine pad.
Lower the transmission and screw the front cover
anchorage to the engine pad.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
Replace the front plate and radiator. Fit the hood.
Connect the suction and pressure pipes to the oil
pump.
Mount the valve housing. Guide both pipes into
their respective holes in the valve housing. The
pipes must go freely into the valve housing.
Screw on the valve housing. Make sure that the
gear-selector valve operating link is correctly
fitted.
Connect the throttle cable. Make sure that the
cable is seated on its pulley.
Connect the pipes to the valve housing.
Connect the filter to the suction pipes No, 11
and 12.
Fit the bottom cover and check that it is not de-
formed. If such is the case it must be straightened.
Screw on the guard plate.
Fill oil and coolant.
Dec, 1975
Page 489
Changing the bearing in the torque converter housing Parking pawl
1. Remove the lock ring. In order to ensure the functioning of the parking pawl
it has been necessary to provide two gear selector rods,
one of which is 0.1” (2.5 mm) longer than the other.
Variations in length due to assembly tolerances can thus
be eliminated. Both rods can be identified as the longer
One is grooved, see illustration. When fitting, make the
following checks:
A. Short rod (without groove)
Fit the rod and move it to gear selector position P. Press
the rod forward towards the torque converter so that
the play on the rod is eliminated. Measure the distance
between the tooth of the parking pawl and the bottom
of the clearing between the teeth of the ring gear where
the pawl engages. If this measurement is greater than
0.04” (1 mm), the longer rod must be fitted.
a
REMOVING THE BEARING IN THE TORQUE CONVERTER
HOUSING
2. Pull out the bearing using a drift.
3. Reassemble in the reverse order using tool 879016.
1mm (0.04) Max.
$4114
SHORT ROD (WITHOUT GROOVE)
B. Long rod (with groove)
Fit the rod and move it to gear selector position R. Press
the rod backward (towards the final drive) so that the
play on the rod is eliminated. Measure the distance be-
tween the tooth of the parking pawl and the nearest
tooth crown on the ring gear. If this measurement is less
than 0.04” (1 mm), the shorter rod must be fitted.
Identification groove
<j s 2684
INSTALLING THE BEARING IN THE TORQUE CONVERTER
HOUSING
Sleeve 879016
1mm (0.04”) Min,
$4115
LONG ROD (WITH GROOVE)
Sept. 1973 SAAB 472-29
Page 490
ADJUSTMENT 2. Tighten the adjusting screw to a torque 1.3 Nm (10
in.Ib., 12 kpem) and tighten the lock nut.
Adjusting the rear band 3. Transmissions with self-adjusting mechanism:
Check that the gap between the self-adjusting spring
The rear band adjusting screw is located outside the trans- and the lever is 1.5—2 thread flights.
mission casing on the left-hand side.
1. Slacken the lock nut a few turns.
2. Tighten the adjusting screw to the prescribed torque
13—14 Nm (10 ft.lb., 1.3—1.4 kpm), using tool No.
879011 (square socket). Then back off 3/4 turn,
3. Hold the adjusting screw in that position and tighten
the lock nut.
In connection with the adjusting of the throttle cable and
the gear selector lever cable, see also section 444, trans-
mission control.
DIFFERENTIAL BLEEDER,EARLIER DESIGN
ADJUSTING THE REAR BAND
Tool! 879011
Adjusting the front band
1. Place the spacer 879007 1/4” (6.35 mm) between the
adjusting screw and the boss on the piston.
DIFFERENTIAL BLEEDER, LATER DESIGN
ADJUSTING THE FRONT BAND
Tools 879007, 879006 and 879013
472-30 SAAB Dec, 1975