Page 371
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TRANSMISSION AS FROM CHASSIS NO. 99722003499
SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM
Clutch shaft
. Primary gear
. Intermediate gear
. Reverse gear
. Reverse gear shaft
|. Pinion shaft
. Differential housing
NOOERWNH=
3225 I 4
Synchronization up to and incl. gearbox No. 38.686
The synchronization of the gears (see illustration) works —<=<$$V
as follows:
When the coupling muff is about to be brought into en-
) gagement with the coupling teeth of, say, third gear, it
pushes a synchronizing ring ahead of it; this ring is tapered
on the inside, while the outside carries teeth that match
the coupling teeth of the gear. The synchronizing ring ro-
tates at the same speed as the pinion shaft and is free to
twist half the pitch of one tooth in relation to the muff.
If No. 3 gear happens to be running at a different speed
to the pinion shaft at the moment when third gear is
about to be engaged and the muff approaches the No. 3
gear position, the muff is obstructed by the coupling
teeth on the synchronizing ring, which get in the way $ 3179
of the female teeth in the muff. The synchronizing ring
is therefore displaced until its tapered inner surface mates
with the male cone of the No. 3 gear, whereupon friction 2: Bronze. blocking cing
equalizes the speeds of the gear and the coupling muff; 3. Dog ring, 3rd speed gear
the way is then clear for the muff to slide into engage- 4. Dog ring, 4th speed gear
ment with the coupling teeth of No. 3 gear.
The synchronizing ring for first gear is of special design.
It can be distinguished from the others by the fact that Synchronization as from gearbox No, 38.687
it lacks three teeth.
me
Wp.
SYNCHRONIZER UNIT
1. Synchronizer sleeve
With effect from gearbox No. 38.687 a new type of syn-
chronization has been introduced fro the 1st and 2nd
Sept. 1973 SAAB 430-4
Page 372
gears. As from chassis No. 99722003499, all gears have
this type of synchronization. The new design features
larger synchronizing rings working against a female cone
in the coupling muff. The arrangement of the new synchro-
nization is shown in the figure below.
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S$ 3180
SYNCHRONIZER UNIT
1. Synchronizer sleeve
2. Synchronizing ring
3. Spring
4. 1st gear wheel
5. 2nd gear wheel
Free wheel
The free wheel is only provided in gearboxes to engines
with 1,7 | cylinder volume.
The free wheel transmits power from the primary gear
wheel to the input gear of the gearbox via the free wheel
shaft. The free wheel hub is splined on to the pri-
mary gear shaft and contains ten roller seats with an
equal number of rollers. Each roller is individually spring
loaded by two coil springs, which constantly strive to
force the roller upward on its curved bearing seat.
The free wheel hub is surrounded by a cylindrical sleeve
forming part of the free wheel shaft, which is the an in-
tegral part of input shaft to the gearbox.
The primary gear wheel is driven by the engine crankshaft
through the clutch shaft and primary gear. When the en-
gine is driving the car, the free wheel is locked because
the hub tends to rotate faster than the free wheel shaft,
so that the rollers are forced upward on the curved bear-
ing seats of the hub:
The rollers bind between the free wheel hub and the
surrounding sleeve, forcing the free wheel shaft to rotate
at the same speed as the primary gear wheel shaft and
thus locking the former to the latter. If on the other
hand the free wheel shaft is rotating faster than the
primary gear wheel shaft, as happens for example when
the car is coasting downhill with the engine idling, the
rollers are freed as the rotation of the free wheel shaft
sleeve forces them back against the springs. This allows
the sleeve and the free wheel shaft to rotate faster than
the primary gear wheel shaft.
The free wheel is also provided with a locking device
which immobilizes the joint between the primary gear
wheel and free wheel shafts.
FREE WHEEL
Differential, etc.
The differential assembly consists of two differential gears
and two front axle gears, one for each front axle. All
these gears have straight beveled teeth. The axle gears are
splined to the ends of the inner drivers. The crown wheel,
which is driven from the transmission by the pinion shaft,
is screwed to the differential case.
The speedometer drive gear is secured to the differential
case by a lock ring. Its rotation is transmitted by a worm
gear to the speedometer cable attachment. )
Sept. 1973
Page 373
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Manual transmission
Removal
For major work on the engine and transmission, the en-
tire power plant should be lifted out. Removal of the en-
gine by itself is not recommended.
1. Remove the hood as follows:
Back off both the hood fastening screws. Lift off
the hood. For this you need a helper to hold one
side of the hood and help to lift it clear.
2. Detach the battery cables. Unclamp and lift out
the battery.
3. Drain off coolant through the radiator and engine
block drain cocks; open the bleeder cock on the
heat exchanger. (Up to and incl. model 1973.)
4. Carbureted engine:
Detach the vacuum hose of the power assist cylin-
der from the inlet manifold and pull the fuel hose
off the suction side of the fuel pump.
4. Injection engine:
a. Detach the vacuum hoses of the power assist
cylinder and the pressure sensor from the inlet
manifold.
b. Detach the fuel hoses from the tubes at inlet resp.
outlet of the injection valves.
5. Carbureted engine:
Undo the cable connections to the ignition coil,
serial resistance, temperature transmitter, oil pres-
sure transmitter, radiator fan, thermostat contact,
headlights and headlight wiper motor.
5. Injection engine:
a. Undo the cable connections to the ignition coil,
serial resistance, temperature transmitter, oil
pressure transmitter, radiator fan, thermostat
contact, headlight, headlight wiper motor.
b. Undo the connections for the fuel injection of
distributor, injection valves, air cleaner alt.
inlet manifold, throttle valve switch and at
the temperature sensor and temperature switch
below the inlet manifold.
CAUTION
Do not detach the connections by pulling the cables.
Grip the connecting pieces.
6. Carbureted engine:
a, Remove the air cleaner and preheater complete
with hose and the ignition cable. As from model
1972: Remove the preheater hose, air cleaner
with valve housing and cold air hose.
NOTE: Save the spacer sleeves under the outer
preheater casing.
Dec. 1975
10.
at.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
b. Detach the throttle control linkage from the
throttle shaft and remove the return spring.
As from model 1972: Detach the throttle control
wire from driver and bracket.
c. Detach the choke control wire and sheath from
the carburetor.
Injection engine:
a. Remove air cleaner complete with hoses.
b. Undo the throttle control shaft (wire) from the
driver on the throttle house.
Undo the hoses at the connections to the thermo-
stat housing, radiator, inlet manifold and water
pump.
a. Remove the four fastening screws from the front
sheet.
b. Remove the self-tapping screws holding the head-
light trim frames.
c. Remove the four lower self-tapping screws se-
curing the headlights to the edge of the body-
work. As from model 1972: Remove the head-
lights from body and front sheet.
d. Remove the hood lock operating cable from its
fastenings at the dash panel and wheel housing.
e. Remove the front sheet, lifting forward and up-
ward.
Remove the slave cylinder and hang it up in some
convenient place.
Move the free wheel lever forward to the locked
position. Release the wire clamp at the transmis-
sion and free the cable from the holder at the right-
hand differential bearing seat. (Only cars with free
wheel.)
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust mani-
fold.
Detach the ground cable from the transmission. As
from model 1973: Remove the alternator.
Jack up the front end of the car and place blocks
under the body.
a. Put the gear lever in neutral.
b. Knock out the front taper pin from the gear
shift rod joint. (In 1970 and later models, the
rubber bellows must also be pulled free of the
groove on the gear selector rod.) Separate the
gear selector rod joint from the gear selector rod.
Detach the speedometer cable from the transmis-
sion. :
Undo the engine brackets.
Undo the larger clips round the rubber bellows on
the inner universal joints. (In 1968—1969 models
the T-pieces of the drive shafts must be rotated to
the horizontal position.)
Engage the lifting yoke 839240 in the two engine
lifting lugs.
1968—1969 models:
Raise the power plant about 2’ (50 mm) and sepa-
rate the inner universal joints, first the left and then
the right, with the power plant displaced as far as
possible towards the opposite side, Make sure that
the needle bearings do not come apart,
Page 374
1970 and later models:
Undo the lower end piece from the control arm on
the right-hand side. Turn the steering wheel to the
left and withdraw the universal joint. Raise the pow-
er plant slightly and withdraw the left universal joint.
20. Raise the power plant to a suitable height for access
21.
to the cable connections to the starter and up to
and incl. model 1972 the alternator, and disconnect
the cables.
Hoist out the power plant. Fit protective caps over
the inner drivers and rubber bellows.
Installing the power plant
1.
2.
a. Check that the inner universal joints ar. packed
with grease.
b, As from ch.No, 99.033.917:
Check the front engine cushion. Make sure that
the washer is properly tightened.
Hoist the power plant with th. lifting yoke 839240
and lower it into the engine © npartment.
CAUTION
Take care when installing the power plant up to and
incl. model 1972 to avoid damaging the fuel line
hose joint at the dash panel. After installing, check
that there is at least 0.3'' (10 mm) clearance between
the alternator belt pulley and the hose.
VF
Lower the power plant to a convenient working
height and connect the cables to the starter and
up to and incl. model 1972, alternator.
Assemble the inner universal joints as follows:
Hang the clips on the inner drivers.
Lower the power plant to about 2” (50 mm) from
the engine cushions. Assemble the inner universal
joints with the T-piece horizontal. Assemble the
right-t 4: d joint first.
With 1970 aud later models, the front end must be
blocked up during installation of the p wer plant.
Lower the power plant to about 1” (2C -30 mm)
from the engine cushions. First assemble the left-
hand universal joint, then lower the power plant
On to the cushions and assemble the right-hand
joint. Connect the end piece to the lower control
arm.
a. Align the engine brackets. At the same time guide
the throttle control shaft into its bearing (up to and
incl. model 1971).
b. Bolt the power plant to the engine cushions. 20.
Remove the lifting yoke. 21.
a. Push the rubber bellows over the inner universal
joint drivers and fit the clamps. 22
SAAB
10,
11.
12.
13.
14.
15,
16.
17.
18,
19.
19,
b. Wipe any surplus grease off the rubber bellows
and check that the bellows are not deformed.
a. Connect the gear shift rod joint to the gear selec-
tor rod and insert the taper pin. In 1970 and later
models, refit the rubber bellows in the groove on
the gear shift rod joint.
b, Connect the speedometer cable to the transmis-
sion.
Fit the slave cylinder and adjust the clutch.
Bolt the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Lower the front end of the car.
a. Connect the free wheel cable and secure it in the
holder under the right-hand differential bearing
seat.
b. Check the operation of the free wheel control.
Connect the ground cable. Mount the alternator, as
from model 1973.
Mount the front sheet complete with radiator and
connect the hood lock operating cable to the attach-
ment at the dash panel.
Reconnect the cables to the radiator fan, thermo-
stat contact, headlights, headlight wiper motor and
clip the bundle of wiring to the front sheet.
Connect the coolant hoses to the radiator, thermo-
stat housing, water pump and inlet manifold.
Connect the vacuum hose and fuel hose and con-
nect cables to the temperature transmitter, ignition
coil and oil pressure transmitter. On injection engines,
also so connect the vacuum hose to the pressure
sensor and the cables to the starting contact.
Connect the throttle control to the throttle control
shaft and connect the choke control to the carburet-
or. As from model 1972: Connect the throttle con-
trol wire to driver and bracket.
Carbureted engine:
Mount the air cleaner and preheater casing complete
with hose. Connect the ventilation hose to the oil
filler pipe. Connect the ignition cable to the distri-
butor and coil.
Injection engine:
Mount the air cleaner complete with hoses. Connect
the cables for the electronically fuel injection to the
distributor, injection valves, air cleaner, inlet mani-
fold, throttle valve switch and to the temperature
sensor and thermostat switch at the inlet manifold.
Make sure that the rubber caps on the contact pieces
are in place.
CAUTION
The connecting pieces only fit in one way and must
thus not be forced in place.
Install the battery and connect the cables.
Close the radiator and engine block drain cocks,
fill with coolant and oil. Bleed the heater core.
(Up to and incl. model 1973.)
Start the engine, checking oil pressure and coolant
temperature. Check the operation of the transmis-
sion.
Check the operation of the radiator fan by ground-
ing the thermostat contact cable to the radiator,
Dec, 1975
Page 375
23. a. Mount the hood and connect the windshield
washer and headlight washer hoses.
b. Check the fit of the hood. Close the hood, open
the doors, and check that the door jambs clear
the rear edge of the hood.
c. Check the headlight alignment.
d. Refit the headlight trim frames.
24. Take the car out for a test run. Check the coolant
level after driving.
Separating engine from manual transmission
Some works can be done without separating the engine
and gear box.
Clean the power plant.
Drain the engine oil.
Take off the clutch cover.
Remove the starter.
Unscrew the alternator from the alternator support.
Remove the drive belt.
6. Withdraw the clutch shaft (see instructions for dias-
sembling the clutch).
7. Undo the three screws of the release bearing guide
sleeve.
8. Back off the adjusting screw and disconnect the
clutch lever.
9. Undo all screws in the mating flanges of engine and
transmission and two screws accessible from under
the transmission.
10. Lift the engine carefully off the transmission (see
illustration). At the same time remove the release
bearing guide sleeve.
cred edd
Reassemble in the reverse order.
Do not mix up the screws:
Screws, inserted from the block and threaded into the
gear box, have up to and incl. model 1971 UNC threads
and as from model 1972 M threads.
Screws, inserted from the transmission and threaded into
the cast iron cylinder block have on 1.7 and 1.85 | engines
UNF threads and on 2.0 | engines M threads.
Jan. 1973 SAAES 431-3
Page 376
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Page 377
TRANSMISSION CONTROL
Manual transmission
General
Gear shifting is controlled by a floor-mounted lever lo-
cated between the front seats.
As from chassis No. 99.039.548 a new design of gear lever
has been introduced. To release the reverse gear catch on
levers of the new design, pull the ring-shaped handle, lo-
cated under the lever knob, upwards. The lever is made
in two parts, insulated from eachother by rubber bearings.
The rest of the transmission control system consists of a
gear lever housing recessed into the floor between the
front seats and a rod that transmits gear lever movements
to the gearbox.
Adjusting gear positions
1, Engage reverse gear and turn the ignition key toL
(Locked).
2. Move the gear lever back and forth. The gear shift rod
should then have an axial movement of 0.06—0.1”
(1.5—2.5 mm). Adjust by moving the gear lever hous-
ing forward or backward.
Gear lever lock
General
The car is equipped with a combined ignition switch and
gear lever lock. When the gear lever is placed in reverse
and the ignition key withdrawn, the gear lever is locked.
The ignition switch has the following positions’
L. Locked. Reverse gear must be engaged before the key can
be turned to L, and the key can only be withdrawn in
this position.
Parking lights and hazard warning lights can be switched
on.
G. Garage. All lights can be switched on.
K. Drive. All electrical systems including the ignition cir-
cuit are live.
S. Start. This position has a spring-loaded return to K.
The gear lever lock consists of a tongue (3) and cogwheel
(4) actuated by a toothed segment (5) mounted under
the lock cylinder (6). The segment turns with the lock
cylinder.
Jan, 1973
On
S 1835
GEAR LEVER LOCK
. Housing
. Spring
. Locking tongue
. Cogwheel
. Toothed segment
. Lock cylinder
OaASwna
Ignition and starter contact
Removing
1. Engage reverse gear and take out the ignition key.
2. Take out the left front seat and slide the right one
forward.
3. Disconnect the battery cables.
4. Pull up the rubber boot of the gear lever.
5. Undo the three screws in the gear lever cap.
6. Pull out the gear lever complete with carrier.
7. Take out the lever bearing and spring ring.
8. Remove or turn back the floor carpet.
9. Take the plate off the heater cover.
10. Remove the knobs from the free wheel and heater
control levers.
11. Undo the three retaining screws from the gear lever
cover and lift off the cover.
12. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch and
back-up light contact.
13. Undo the retaining screws from the gear lever hous-
ing, using special wrench 839123.
14, Raise the gear lever housing slightly and twist it so
that the cover plate screws can be undone from
underneath,
15. After the cover plate has been taken off, the cog-
wheel, tongue and spring can be removed from the
lock.
SAAB 432-1
Page 378
Assembling
2. Check that the ignition key is in position L (locked).
3. Mount the contact with the locating stud (1) in the
matching groove in the gear lever housing.
4. Turn the ignition key back and forth to make sure
that the gear lever lock does not stick or jam.
5. Fit the cover plate.
6. Mount the gear lever housing, making sure that the
plastic bushing on the gear shift rod is correctly
positioned in the bracket.
7. Move the rod to the neutral position and mount the
gear lever with bearing and spring ring, tightening
the three retaining screws.
8. Adjust the gear positions (see page 432—1).
9. Connect the cables to the ignition switch and back-
up light contact. Engage reverse gear and withdraw
the ignition key.
10. Mount the gear lever cow! and other removed
components.
432-2
1 $ 3187
IGNITION AND STARTER CONTACT
1. Locating stud
2. Setting mark
3. Marking arrow
4. Gear wheel fitting groove
Insert a screwdriver in the slot (4) and turn the
contact to bring the mark (2) opposite the arrow
(3), (see illustration).
GEAR LEVER LOCK \
. Housing
. Spring
. Locking tongue
Cogwheel
. Toothed segment
Lock cylinder
. Ignition key
NOs on=
Lock cylinder
Removing the cylinder
1. Take off the gear lever housing (see section on remov-
ing the gear lever housing).
2. Up to and incl. the 1973 model: Turn the key so
that the key lines up with the right edge of the
“BSSA” trademark.
As from model 1974: Turn the key to a position )
between the locking- and garage position. aa
3. With the key in this position, the lock cylinder cotter
pin can be pushed in to free the cylinder with the help
of a wire lockpick or similar inserted through a hole
under the gear lever housing (see illustration). L)
4. Pull out the lock cylinder.
4
$4116
LOCK CYLINDER AND KEY,. LOCK CYLINDER AND KEY
UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1973 AS FROM MODEL 1974
1. Hole for catch pin
1. Key
2. Key .
3. Lock cylinder 2. Lock cylinder
SAAB Sept. 1973
Page 379
$2465
PUSHING IN THE CATCH PIN
Assembling
1. Up to and incl. model 1973: Turn the key in the lock
cylinder so that it lines up with the right edge of the
“ ASSA" trademark.
As from model 1974: Turn the key in the lock cyl-
inder to a position between the locking- and garage
positions.
2. Push in the lock cylinder catch pin. Check that the
toothed segment driver pins are correctly positioned
to fit in the lock cylinder, Push in the lock cylinder
and check that it is engaged in the toothed segment.
3. Mount the gear lever housing according to the instruc-
tions given below.
Disassembly when key is missing
'f the key has been lost or if it is necessary to remove the
lock or the lock cylinder, the cylinder must be drilled be-
fore the catch pin can be pressed in. Drill an 0.12 in. (3
mm) hole in the cylinder to a depth of about 1.0 in. (25
mm) as illustrated.
$364
DRILLING LOCK CYLINDER FOR REMOVAL WHEN KEY
IS MISSING, UP TO AND INCL. MODEL 1973
1. Hole, diameter 0.12 in. (3 mm), depth 1.0 in. (25 mm)
Disassembly when key is missing
As from model 1974: If the key is missing, the lock cyl-
inder is removed from the gear lever housing as follows:
1. Lift out the left front seat and the gear lever housing
protection casing.
2. Loosen the gear lever housing retaining nuts with the
aid of special tool 839123.
3. Drill out the plug covering the hole for the lock cyl-
inder catch pin in the gear lever housing.
4. Drive in the catch pin approx. 0.08 in. (approx. 2 mm)
with the aid of a drift and remove the lock cylinder.
Before installation, plug the hole in the gear lever housing
again. The plug is made of a suitable screw or rivet that is
cut to a length of approx. 0.19 in. (approx. 5 mm).
THE LOCK CYLINDER CATCH PIN IS DRIVEN IN WITH THE
AID OF A DRIFT
Removing the gear lever housing
1. Put the gear lever in reverse and take out the igni-
tion key.
2. Take out the left front seat and slide the right one
forward.
3. Disconnect the battery cables.
4. Pull up the rubber boot on the gear lever.
5. Unscrew the three retaining screws from the cover.
6. Remove the gear lever and the carrier.
7. Remove the gear lever bearing and if any spring
ring.
8. Turn back the floor carpet.
9. Remove the plate on the heater cover.
10. Remove the buttons to the free wheel contro! and
heater control.
11. Unscrew the three retaining screws from the gear
lever cover and lift off the cover.
12. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition switch and
back-up light contact.
13. Back off the retaining nuts from the gear lever hous-
ing, using special tool 839123.
14. Raise the gear lever housing slightly and twist it to
reach the bottom cover screws. Take off the bottom
cover and disconnect the free wheel control wire.
Dec. 1975 SAAB 432-3
Page 380
Fs 1830
GEAR LEVER HOUSING, COVER REMOVED
Assembling
8.
10.
huh
12.
Turn the ignition key to K (Drive).
Assemble the gear lever housing and bottom cover
and connect the free wheel control cable, making
sure that the rubber bushing is properly positioned
on the gear shift rod.
Mount the gear lever housing, making sure that the
plastic bushing on the gear shift rod is correctly
positioned in the bracket.
Move the rod into neutral.
Mount the gear lever with bearing and spring ring
and tighten the three retaining screws.
Adjust the gear positions (see page 432—1).
Connect the cables to the ignition switch and back-
up light contact. Engage reverse gear and withdraw the
ignition key.
Mount the gear lever cover.
Fit the control lever buttons.
Fit the rubber boot.
Fit the plate on the heater cover.
Lay the carpets, install the front seats and connect
the battery cables.
Tifa
10 =
9 Ss
Ay
i
SECTION THROUGH GEAR LEVER HOUSING,
up to chassis No. 99.009.988
1. Gear lever
Rubber boot
Cap
. Bearing
. Spring ring
Tension pin
Bottom part
. Gear shift rod
. Bearing
. Rubber bushing
. Carrier
=SO©MNANAWN
Removing the gear lever from the car
. Put the gear lever in neutral.
. Pull up the rubber boot (2).
. Undo the three screws from the cap (3).
. Pull out the lever (1) with the carrier (11).
. Remove the gear lever bearing (4) and spring ring (5).
aswnrd—
Reassemble in the reverse order.
SAAB Sept. 1973