Page 211
i. mo ol
5. Removal, Installation and
Adjustment of the Individual
Components
Grip the sides of the plugs when pulling them out, never
pull on the cable. When reconnecting the plugs to the
individual components, take care that the rubber caps are
correctly pushed over the plug.
Disconnect the battery.
5.1 Pressure sensor Fig. 12
The pressure sensor is screwed to the left wheelhouse
(fender),
Open hose clamp of the pressure line and remove hose.
Pull out 4-pole plug.
Loosen the 3 fastening screws (arrow) with a Philips screw
driver. Remove pressure sensor with bracket.
Note for installation!
The protection sleeve on the hose connection of a new
pressure sensor must be removed only immediately before
pushing on the connecting hose.
Danger of dirt.
5.2 Adjustment of throttle valve Fig. 13a
important note!
The throttle valve stop screw is set in the factory so that
the valve is completely closed. The stop screw bracket is
locked and must not be readjusted. It prevents the valve
from closing too hard and resulting in possible seizure of
the throttle valve.
If readjustment becomes necessary, one should proceed
as follows:
Adjust linkage play; up to and including model 1971:
Remove the air cleaner.
Set the linkage play by means of the adjustment screw
(arrow) to a minimum but taking care that it is still easy
to move.
Finally tighten the top nut.
Fig. 13b
Adjust throttle wire, as from model 1972:
The play of the throttle wire can be adjusted with the
nuts at the bracket.
Fig. 14
Adjust the stop screw (arrow) so that the throttle valve
is approx. 0.05 mm open. Measure the throttle valve
Openening with a feeler gauge, after the air cleaner is
removed.
14
Nov. 1972 SAAB
234-24
Page 212
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1. 1.7 and 1.851 engines
2. 2.01 engine
Check the full load stage, 2.0 | engine
This check is only called for in countries where vehicles
are driven for long distances at maximum speeds, e.g.
on turnpikes.
1. Connect the resistance meter or a buzzer to terminals
"14" and “47” on the throttle switch,
2. Open the throttle valve and check that the circuit
closes at an opening angle of about 68° (approx. 12°
from full throttle valve opening). This angle is com-
pletely dependent on the adjustment of the throttle
switch and cannot be adjusted.
234-25
5.3 Throttle valve switch
To remove, first take off the air filter. Pull out four-pole
plug, loosen both fastening screws and draw the switch off
the throttle valve shaft. Fig. 15
Adjusting the throttle valve switch
The throttle valve switch should operate when the throt-
tle valve hasopened 1° from its neutral position. To facil-
itate adjustment, graduations have been stamped into the
base plate of the throttle valve switch on both sides (1
graduation mark = 2°).
These graduations face an orientation marking on the in-
duction manifold (throttle valve housing). If there is no
mark, make one yourself.
Adjustment can be carried out in accordance with in-
struction 1 or 2.
1. Make adjustments using test instrument EFAW
228 S 12 as described on page 234—15. Switch “A”
should be in the ‘Measure’ position and switch oid =
in the “Throttle valve switch III” position, Fit the
throttle switch onto the throttle valve shaft and
slightly tighten the two fastening screws.
Insert the plug and turn on the ignition. Rotate the
throttle switch until the needle on the test instru-
ment moves from “°" position to “0”. Now turn the
throttle switch 1/2 graduation (=19) clockwise and
tighten the fastening screws. Finally, check the ad-
justment by opening the throttle valve.
2. Check adjustment using a resistance meter or a buzz-
er.
a. Remove the plug from the throttle switch.
b. 1.7 and 1.85 | engines: Connect a resistance meter
or a buzzer to terminals 14" and "17" on the
throttle switch.
c. 2.0 | engine: Connect the resistance meter or a
buzzer to terminals ‘’47 and “17” on the throt-
tle switch.
d. When the throttle valve is closed, the electrical cir-
cuit is closed. An ohm-meter will then register "0"
or the buzzer will sound.
e. If the throttle valve is then opened approx. 1°, the
circuit will be broken. An ohm-meter will then
register “90"’ or the buzzer will stop operating.
Adjustment: Unscrew the throttle switch some-
what. Try to establish the exact position at which
the circuit is closed after having been broken.
(This is achieved by turning the throttle switch.)
Then turn the throttle switch an additional 1°
(= 1/2 a graduation) in the direction in which the
circuit is completed. Tighten up the throttle
switch. Check in accordance with procedures 2 a,
b,c, d and e.
SAAB Dec. 1975
Page 213
5.4 Pressure regulator
Removing the pressure regulator: Fig. 17
Open the hose clamps of pressure and return lines and
remove the hoses. The hoses should be plugged imme-
diately to prevent loss of fuel. Use either a 27 mm (1'/;, in)
open end or box wrench to loosen the fastening nut and
remove pressure regulator.
Adjusting the pressure regulator: Fig. 18
The setting of the pressure regulator (and hence the fuel
pressure) has a considerable influence on fuel con-
sumption and composition of the exhaust gases.
For this reason the setting should be altered only if the
pressure measured varies from the nominal value.
Connect the pressure gauge in the fuel line leading to the
pressure regulator. Crank the engine and run at idling
speed or control the’fuel pump from the test instrument
EFAW 228 S 10.
Loosen the lock nut on the pressure regulator and set the
Pressure using the hexagon screw. Then tighten the lock
nut again.
5.5 Temperature sensor | (inlet air) Fig. 19
Unscrew the temperature sensor with a 13 mm (1/2 in) box
or open end wrench.
5.6 Temperature sensor Il (cooling gud) - S
ig.
Before the temperature sensor can be removed, part of
the cooling liquid must be drained off (collect the cooling
liquid).
On 1.7 and 1.85 | engines the air cleaner should also be
removed.
Loosen electrical plug connection and screw out the
sensor with a 13 mm (14 in) open end wrench.
When refitting the temperature sensor, the sealing ring
(arrow) must always be renewed.
5.7 Temperature switch Fig. 20
Drain off part of the cooling liquid as described under 5.6;
also remove the air cleaner (1.7 and 1.85 | engines).
Unscrew the temperature switch with a 24 mm (1%/\¢ in) box
or open end wrench.
When refitting, the sealing ring must always be renewed.
5.8 Auxiliary air regulator Fig. 20
Drain off some cooling liquid.
Remove air cleaner.
Pull off both air hoses from the auxiliary air regulator.
Loosen the fixing screws and draw out the regulator.
When refitting, the sealing ring between auxiliary air regu-
lator and the engine block should be renewed.
Sept. 1973
5.6
5.7
5.8
Temperature sensor
Temperature switch
Auxiliary air regulator
234-26
Page 214
26
5.9 Start valve Fig. 23
Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel ring main.
Loosen the fastening screws for the start valve and pull
the valve out of the inlet manifold.
Carefully take off the fuel hose from the removed start
valve.
Before refitting the valve, push the fuel hose on to the
start valve and fix it. Do not forget the seal (arrow)
between the start valve and the inlet manifold.
5.10 Fuel injectors Fig. 24
Before removing an injector, the fuel pipe should be taken
off from all injectors and from the start valve (arrow).
Pull the two-pole plug out of the injector.
Unscrew the fastening clip for the fuel line beside the
auxiliary air regulator. Fig. 25
Pull the fuel pipe out of the injectors.
Screw out the fastening screws (arrow) from the injector
to be removed.
Pull out the injector together with its holder.
Caution: Cover the opening for the injector immediately
to prevent any foreign matter from falling into the inlet
manifold. Fig. 26
SAAES Jan. 1971
Page 215
Refitting the injectors: Fig, 27
Push large rubber ring onto the injector, and the amall
rubber sealing ring onto the injector body
Place the injector in its holder. Do not damage the in
jector needle,
Align the injector (electrical connection on the Injector
in the direction of the engine block)
Push the holder over the injector and equally tighten the
two fastening screws.
Place the fuel ring main in position and tighten the hose
clamps carefully and correctly.
5.11 Fuel filter Fig, 28
Remove the panelling in the trunk on the left side of the
reserve wheel.
Loosen the three fastening screws and pull the flap for-
warc.
Pinch off the fuel lines, downstream and upstream from
the fuel filter with two clampers.
Open the hose clamps. Pull out the filter with hoses up-
wards through the guide slot. Pull the hoses off the filter.
The filter must be renewed every 12,000 miles.
When refitting, check the direction of flow (embossed
2rrow on filter bowl — from tank via filter to pump).
Saab 99 Combi Coupé
The fuel filter is fitted to the circuit between the fuel
pump and the fuel injectors. The filter is fitted in the en-
gine compartment close to the ignition coil.
5.12 Fuel pump Fig. 29
Pinch off the three fuel hoses on the pump with clampers.
Pull out the electrical plug.
Unscrew the two fastening nuts (arrows) with a 10 mm
(/2z in) socket wrench and remove the fuel pump together
with the rubber pads and fuel hoses in an upward direction.
Open the hose clamps and pull the fuel hoses off the
pump.
Saab 99 Combi Coupé
The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. The pump
unit, which consists of a pump mounting, pump, splash
cover and fuel filter, is mounted in an opening in the top
of the tank by means of a bayonet socket. An O-ring is
located between the pump mounting and the tank.
To remove the fuel pump, the tank must first be re-
moved (see page 234-1). Special spanner 839243 is
used to rernove the pump unit from the tank.
One of the tongues in the pump mounting is wider than
the others and it is therefore only possible to remove or
install the pump in a given position. The wider tongue
has @ locking piece which locates in a corresponding re-
cess in one of the tongues in the tank opening.
Dec, 1975
eee
SAAB 234-28
Page 216
30
34
Refitting Fig. 30
Fit the hoses and tighten the hose clamps in the following
sequence:
suction side (9 mm [7/¢, in] dia connection), pressure side
(center connection) and return side.
Caution. Do not interchange the fuel hoses.
Fit the pump together with the rubber pads.
Refit electrical plug.
Adjustment knob, control unit
The control unit has been provided with a device to per-
mit adjustment of CO (carbon monixide) value. This
device is regulated by a knob on the control unit.
Note! This adjustment can just be done, if the throttle
valve is correctly adjusted.
Fine adjustment of the CO value is carried out at an
idling speed of 800—850 rev/min witha CO meter
connected. Adjust for max. 3.5% CO (cars for USA
max. 2.5% CO).
5.15 Idling speed adjustment Fig. 34
The idling speed is altered by variations in a by-pass. The
idling adjustment screw is found on the venturi control
unit.
Adjustment of the idling speed may only be carried out
with the engine at running temperature (80°C = 175° F
cooling liquid temperature).
The speed should be:
800—850 rev/min for vehicles with manual gear change.
800—850 rev/min for vehicles with automatic transmission
with selector lever in position “P’’ or “’N“.
234-29 SAAB Dec, 1975
Page 217
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Removing the front muffler
1. Jack up the front end of the car.
2. Remove the preheater casing and unscrew the screws
securing the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust mani-
fold.
3. Undo the clamps holding the connecting ring at the
joint with the middle exhaust pipe. Unhook the rub-
ber suspension from the front exhaust pipe and sepa-
rate the pipes.
To remove the rear muffler and the other sections of pipe,
detach the rubber suspensions and clamps from the part
to be removed.
Removing the middle exhaust pipe and/or rear muffler
To remove the middle exhaust pipe or the rear muffler it
is best to begin by unclamping the joint between these
two units.
To remove the entire system, first undo the front pipe
from the exhaust manifold and then unclamp the rear pipe
joint. Withdraw the rear-pipe from the rear.
Reassemble in the reverse order.
NOTE!
After assembling, check the exhaust system for leaks
and make sure that the pipe is not in contact with
the body, heat shield or fuel filler extension hose.
Pipe clamps are to be fitted with the plate washer
pointing 45° downward.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Jan. 1972 SAAB
252-1
Page 218
As from engine No. JB 85583 (1.7 |) JE 77359 (1.85 |)
model 1971, the exhaust manifold is fitted with two
outlets and the front muffler with two pipes.
EXHAUST SYSTEM’ AS FROM ENGINE NO: JB 85583 (1.7L)
AND JE 77359 (1.85L)
EXHAUST SYSTEM, AS FROM CHASSIS NO
. 99722012428
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Gee
$3477
Nov. 1972
Page 219
RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM
Removing and installing
1. Drain off coolant.
2. Undo the water hose clips at the radiator and discon-
nect the hoses.
3. Undo the wiring terminals for the radiator fan and
thermoswitch.
4. Remove the front sheet complete with radiator (see
p. 201—2).
Reassemble in the reverse order.
Test pressurization of the radiator
Leakage in the cooling system can often be difficult to
detect because the system only develops full pressure
when the car is actually being driven. A good method is
to pressurize the system with a pressure tester, where-
upon the radiator, hoses and seals can be checked out.
The maximum permitted gauge pressure is 1.0 bar (kp/
cm2, 14 psi). A pressure tester can also be used to check
the opening pressure of the radiator filler. Opening pres-
sure, see Group 0.
Inspecting the radiator
If the radiator has been removed from the car, it can be
tested for leakage by being immersed in water with the
tube opening plugged and supplied with compressed air.
The maximum test pressure is 1.0 bar (kp/cm2, 14 psi).
Leaks, if any, can be repaired by soldering. The use of
Proprietary sealing agents added to the coolant should
only be resorted to in emergencies, as these agents are
apt to clog the jacket and tubes and interfere with free
circulation. The cells of the radiator battery may some-
times become blocked with dust, insects, etc. with re-
duced air flow as a result. If so, wash the radiator and
blow it clear with compressed air.
Filling or changing coolant
1, Unscrew the pressure cap from the expansion tank.
(As from model 1971 the expansion tank is located
at the left wheel housing.)
2. Open the heater core bleeder nipple and set the heater
control to maximum heat.
3. Fill the system with fresh coolant. Start the engine and
let it run at moderate speed until coolant overflows
from the heater core bleeder nipple with no air bubbles.
4. Close the bleeder nipple, stop the engine, and top up
with more coolant if necessary. Use only clean liquid
for filling.
Dec, 1975
CAUTION
Be very careful if for any reason the coolant should
be boiling when you are about to remove the radia-
tor cap. Loosen the cap gently and allow steam to
escape before taking the cap off. Never add large
quantities of coolant when the engine is warm, as
this may crack the cylinder block.
Non-freezing coolant mixtures
During the cold season the coolant must be mixed with
anti-freeze, as pure water is liable to freeze and burst the
cylinder block. Ethylene glycol is recommended as an
anti-freeze fluid. For maximum protection against freez-
ing and rusting the glycol dosage should be 40—50 per
cent, i.e. for 1.7 and 1.85 | engines: 3—4 Imp.quarts or
4—5 US quarts (3.6—4.5 liters) and for 2.0 | engine:
3—4 Imp.quarts or 4—5 US quarts (3.8—4.7 liters) of
glycol. Use only the glycol grade recommended (see
group 0 for details). Saab glycol 838362 can be used
with good result all the year round for two years at a
time. Other recommended glycol grades should be
changed every year. If ordinary water is used in the sum-
mer season, an anti-rust agent should be added. NOTE!
When anti-freeze is added, it must be premixed with a
suitable quantity of water as the liquid in the expansion
tank is not affected by the general circulation of coolant.
Cleaning the cooling system
1. Drain off coolant.
. Flush the system with clean water.
3. Fill the system with clean water containing a com-
mercial solvent, following the manufacturer's di-
rections for use.
4. Run the engine warm to start all the coolant circu-
lating.
5. Stop the engine and wait a few minutes before draining
off the coolant.
6. Flush the system again with clean water; this time,
flush the engine and radiator separately and in the
reverse direction to the normal coolant circulation.
The engine jacket should thus be flushed from the
N
SAAB 261-1
Page 220
cylinder head down, and the radiator from the left
connecting pipe. Remove the thermostat first.
7. Flush out the heater core, likewise in the reverse di-
rection to the normal flow.
8. Check the operation of the cock in the line to the
heater core.
9. Fit the thermostat, water outlet pipe and hoses and
check the system for leakage. When cleaning the cool-
ing system, check also that the radiator overflow pipe
system, check also that the radiator overflow pipe
is not blocked by dirt. If the method of cleaning
described here fails to clear the radiator of deposits,
it should be removed and sent to a radiator specialist.
THERMOSTAT HOUSING WITH THERMOSTAT, WATER
OUTLET PIPE AND VALVE BODY
(Valve body only up to and incl. mode! 1970.)
THERMOSTAT AND WATER OUTLET PIPE AS FROM
MODEL 1971
261-2
Dec. 1975