Page 691
REAR WHEEL HUBS
Each rear wheel hub runs in two tapered roller bearings.
Up to and including 1978 model these two bearings were
of the same size. As from 1979 model the inner bearing
has a larger diameter than the outer.
(
(
FITTING THE HUB AND BRAKE DISC TO THE SHAFT
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
1 1.
If the inner universal joint needle bearings have
been removed, grease them and mount them on
the ends of the tee piece. Fit protective cover to
protect the needle bearings and insert the drive
shaft through the wheel housing. Make sure that
the inner driver is clean and packed with chassis
grease.
Assemble the inner universal joint. Fit the upper
ball bolt to the steering knuckle housing and fit
the lower control arm bracket.
Then secure the clamp round the drive joint bellows.
Mount the tie rod end to the steering arm.
Mount the brake housing.
Fit the wheel and lower the car.
T-ighten the hub locking nut to the prescribed torque and secure the nut by upsetting the flange in
the locking groove.
,igni:en i:ne wneei nui:s secureiy anci tit the hub
cap.
BACK WHEEL HUB, UP TO AND INCL. 1978 MODEL
1. Hub
2. Wheel bearings
3. Seal
4. Wheel bolt
CAUTION
The brake pads must be advanced to their proper
position close to the disc, which is done by pumping the brake pedal repeatedly. Otherwise the brake
will not work.
REAR WHEEL HUB AS FROM 1979 MODEL
1. Hub
2. Wheel bolt
3 . .Wheel bearings
4. Seal
SAAB
774-5
Page 692
Detar darvid lampligt att en traplatta laggs under
navet saatt andytorna ej deformeras.
Removal
Wash thoroughly under the fenders before starting work
and scrape off any dirt that could fall into the bearing$.
1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Installation
CAUTION
It is absolutely forbidden to apply the jack under
the rear axle, as this is liable to deform the axle.
Clean and inspect all parts carefully, and renew any that
are worn or damaged. A new seal ring must always be
fitted.
2. Remove the brake housing and brake disc.
NOTE
The brake housing must be supported to avoid damage to the brake pipe.
IMPORTANT
Even though both tapered roller bearings are the
same size, the inner and outer bearings must not
be interchanged, as they wear themselves into a given fit after a time in use.
1. Up to and including 1978 model.
a. Use drift 8995169 to insert the bearing outer races
in the hub.
3. Prize out the dust cap with a screwdriver.
4. Remove the lock nut secured by upsetting and the
washer.
5. Pull off the hub. If necessary, use puller 8995185.
r
6. Break out the seal ring with a screwdriver (it cannot
be removed intact) and remove the inner rings of both
bearings.
7. Place a suitable drift in the milled recesses in the hub
and drive out the outer bearing rings. While doing this,
it is advisable to place a wooden board under the hub
to avoid deforming the end faces.
PRESSING IN THE BEARING OUTER RINGS
Tool 8995169
b. Fill half the space between the outer rings with
Saab Special chassis grease and grease the inner
rings.
c. Locate the inner ring of the inner bearing arid fit a
new shaft seal, which should first be lubricated
with grease or thick oil.
774-6
5"1'11
..L
Page 693
b. Fill half the space between the outer races with
Saab Special chassis grease and apply grease to the
inner bearing races.
c. Insert the bearing inner races and fit a new shaft
seal which should be lubricated with grease or thick
oil.
PRESSING IN THE SEAL RING
Tool 8995169
1. As from 1979 model:
a. Use drift 8996241 to press the bearing outer races
in the hub.
2. Check that the bearing surface for the seal ring on the
stub axle is perfectly smooth. If it is damaged, it must
be smoothed and polished with a very fine emery cloth.
Lubricate the bearing surface with consistent grease.
3. Fit the hub to the stub axle, insert the inner ring of
the outer bearing and mount the washer and nut.
Tighten the lock nut to a torque of 36 ft.lb. (49 Nm/
5 kpm). Then slacken the nut completely. Finally
tighten the nut to a torque of 1.4-2.9 ft.lb. (2-4 Nm/
0.2-0.4 kpm).
If the old securing at the nut flange will be at the
locking groove, change the nut. Secure the nut by upsetting the flange in the locking groove, using a rounded drift so that cracks will not occur when securing.
Torque
SUS
Stage I: 35 ft. lb. (49 Nm (5 kpm))
Stage 11: Loosen the nut
Stage Ill: 1.5-3 ft. lb. (2-4 Nm (0.20.4 kpm))
774-7
Page 694
CHANGING THE WHEEL BOLTS
Front wheels
Removal
1. Take off the hub cap and remove the lock nut. Slacken
the wheel nuts.
2. Block up the front of the car on trestles and remove
the wheel.
3. Turn the brake disc so that the recess in the edge of
the disc is in line with the brake pads. Loosen the handbrake cable and remove the brake housing. Hang up the
brake housing to avoid damage to the brake hoses.
4. Remove the hub and brake disc using puller 8996084
or 8995185 and 4 extension pieces 8996050.
UPSETTING THE FLANGE OF THE LOCKING NUT
6. Fit the dust cap.
7. Mount the brake disc, brake housing, wheel and wheel
nuts.
CAUTION
The brake pads must be advanced to their proper
position close to the disc, which is done by pumping the brake pedal repeatedly. Otherwise the brake
will not work.
8. Lower the rear of the car, tighten the wheel nuts securely and fit the hub cap.
NOTE
A torque wrench should always be used if a pneumatic tightener is used to tighten the wheel nuts.
The use of excessive force can damage the nut and
the wheel.
774-8
5. Remove the lockings and the screws holding the brake
disc to the hub.
6. Press out the wheel bolts, using a press or tool 8995920
and removal sleeve.
SAMI
Page 695
Installation
Rear wheels
1. Press in the new bolts using a press or using pressing
tool 8995920 and installation sleeve.
2. Assemble the hub and br.ake discs. Tighten the bolts
to the prescribed torque and secure them with the
locking olates.
[ Torque
Removal
1. Block up the rear of the car on trestles and remove
the wheel.
2. Remove the brake housing and then remove the brake
disc, see group 5.
3. Press out the wheel bolts using pressing tool 8995920
with the removal sleeve on the inside of the hub.
22-36 ft. lb. (30-50 Nm (3-5 kpm))
3. Mount the hub and brake disc on the drive shaft. Fit
the washer and lock nut.
NOTE
Tighten the lock nut with an ordinary spanner
or wrench to avoid damaging the thread. If a
pneumatic nut tightener is used, a dished washer with an enlarged inside diameter should be
used as an assembly washer.
028
REMOVING A WHEEL BOLT
Tool8995920
S 5571
Installation
1. Press in the new bolts with pressing tool 8995920
with the installation sleeve on the outside of the hub.
2. Mount the brake disc and brake housing and bleed
the brakes, see group 5.
3. Fit the wheel and lower the car.
ASSEMBLY WASHER WITH ENLARGED INSIDE DIAMETER
Tightening the wheel nuts with a pneumatic nut
tightener
1. Mount the assembly washer.
2. Mount the lock nut and tighten it.
3. Back off the lock nut and remove the assembly
washer.
4. Mount the standard dished washer.
5. Tighten the lock nut.
Tighten the lock nut to the prescribed torque and secure the nut by upsetting the flange in the locking
groove.
Torque
250±7 ft. lb. (350±10 Nm (35±1 kpm))
4. Mount the brake housing. Pump the brake pedal repeatedly so that the brake pads advance to their proper position close to the disc.
5. Fit the wheel and lower the car.
INSTALLING
A WHEEL BOLT
Tool 8995920
NOTE
A torque wrench should always be used if a pneumatic tightener is used to tighten the wheel nuts.
The use of excessive force can damage the nut and
the wheel.
WB
774-9
Page 697
CONTENTS
800
GENERAL
810
BODY ASSEMBLY
820
HOOD,FRONT,FENDERS
830
DOORS AND LIDS
843
WINDOWS
851
UPHOLSTERY AND INTERIOR FITTINGS
852
SEATS AND CARPETING
853
INTERIOR EQUIPMENT
854
HEATING AND VENTILATION SYSTEM, AIR
CONDITIONING
860
BUMPERS
890
BODY FINISHING
SAAB
Page 698
ll
~
!I
Page 699
GENERAL
BODY INSULATION
The car has an all-welded cantilever steel unit body. The
doors, engine hood and trunk lid are removable, while
the front and rear fenders are welded on to form integral
load-carrying parts of the body.
The body is constructed of a relatively small number of
sections of pressed steel sheeting. These are joined together mainly by spot-welded overlapped joints. Body rigidity
is achieved by longitudinal and transverse floor beams,
heavy-gauge windshield pillars and profiled stiffeners round
the roof. Moulded stiffening frames reinforce the windshield and back window. All doors are equipped with a
reinforcement beam that gives improved protection if the
car is involved in a side collision. Reinforcing pieces and
brackets are welded to the engine and chassis unit mountings to take up prevailing forces.
The floor comprises front and center sections, cross members and rear section, together with a number of reinforcing plates and beams. The front floor section, also called
the engine compartment floor, is welded at the dash panel
to the center section, which forms the floor of the passenger compartment. The rear section forms the floor of the
trunk compartment. The center and rear floor sections
are joined by a cross member forming a tunnel for the
rear axle.
The underbody, i.e. the floor, wheel housings and fenders,
is sprayed with a sealing composition which serves to protect the metal from flying stones and rust and to insulate
the body from road noise.
The upper surface of the floor in the passenger and trunk
compartments is covered with an asphalt mat. This is l,h:
before the body goes into the lacquering oven and therefore melts on to the steel, providing excellent rust protection and contributing to the sound insulation.
The rear wheel housings and fenders are covered with plastic coating asphalt matting. Thick asphalt matting faced
with nylon fiber matting is bonded to the parts of the front
wheel housing that lie inside the passenger compartment.
The dash panel and engine compartment are insulated with
glass wool, and the roof is insulated with pressed glass wool.
Waffleboard is bonded to the insides of the doors and valances.
't'i'N
II
·.I.I.I.II.♦.♦.
SUB
800-1
Page 700
BODY ASSEMBL V
GENERAL
If any part of the body is deformed in a crash and the damage is so extensive that the part cannot be straightened out,
it can be exchanged for a new part instead. Indeed, in many
cases of minor damage it may actually prove quicker, cheap-
er and more satisfactory to renew all or part of the damaged section rather than straigten it.
The pressed section with reinforcements will normally be
available as a replacement part, but in addition, certain
"economy spares" are stocked. Examples of these are the
front ends of fenders, the front end of the engine compartment floor, and a divided rear valance. For details, see the
Spare Parts Catalogue.
11
~28
~
25
;ff)
ssse1
7
- - - - - - PARTING LINE FOR ECONOMY SPARES
EXAMPLE OF INTEGRAL
BODY DETAILS AVAILABLE
1. Front floor (engine compartment floor)
2. Front floor front part (economy spare part)
3. Floor member
4. Front wheel housing cpl.
5. Front wheel housing outer part
6. Front fender
7. Front fender front part (economy spare part)
8. Dash panel, lollll8r part
9. Dash panel, upper part
10. Windshield member
11. Roof panel
12. Roof members
13. Side members
14. Water channels
15. Front pillar
16. Plate front pillar
810-1
AS SPARE PARTS
17. Rear pillar
18. Scuff plate, inner part
19. Scuff plate, outer part
20. Rear wheel housing cpl.
21. Rear wheel housing, outer part
22. Outer valance
23. Outer valance front part (economy spare part)
24. Outer valance rear part (economy spare part)
25. Side member
26. Cross member
27. Rear floor
28. Rear plate
29. Outer valance, Saab 99 Combi Coupe
30. Outer valance fror.t part (economy spare part) Saab 99 Combi Coup6
31. Outer valance rear part (economy spare part) Saab 99 Combi Coup6