Page 651
STEERING GEAR
Check occasionally that the steering gear rubber bellows
are intact.
If the steering gear is noisy, it must be adjusted (see section "Adjustment of steering gear"). The illustration
shows the steering gear of a left-hand-drive car. As the
steering gear of the right-hand-drive model is essentially
similar, the instructions given here apply to both types.
Regarding the power steering, see page 644-1.
GENERAL
The steering gear is precision adjusted before delivery and
should not be disassembled unless absolutely necessary.
Disassembly and reassembly of the steering gear, see the
following pages.
The steering gear is sealed for life. As from the middle of
1978 model production the steering gear is lubricated
with FLUID GREASE while oil lubrication was used
previously. FLUID GREASE should be used in future
(this also applies to earlier oil-lubricated steering gears)
in conjunction with repair work on the steering gear.
FLUID GREASE is compatible with the oil.
17-0
15
is--'
,s-©
20---©
21_-Q
22
II
23-
S6149
STEERING GEAR
1. Steering gear housing
assembly
2. Rack
3. Ball bearing
4. Pinion
5. Sealing ring
6. Ball bearing
7. Shim
8. Spacer
9. Gasket
10.Cap
11. Washer
12. Screw
13. Seal ring
14. Clip
15. Rubber bellows
16.Clip
17. Plunger
18. Spring
19.Shim
20. Gasket
21.Cap
22. Washer
23. Screw
24. Nut
25. Rubber bellows
SAAB
26. Ring
27. Tie rod end
28. Lock nut
29. Tie rod
30. Outer bearing cup
31. Lock nut
32. Inner bearing cup
33. Washer
34. Spring
35. Bushing
36. Cotter pin
37. Rubber bushing
642-1
Page 652
REMOVAL
1. Remove the left (R .H.D. cars the right) screen under
the instrument panel and loosen the rubber bellows at
the body lead-through for the steering gear intermediate shaft.
2. Jack up the car and remove the screw holding the joint
to the steering gear pinion.
3. Loosen the steering column tube from the body and
separate the steering column joint from the pinion.
Hang up the steering column so that the wiring harness
is not damaged.
4. Remove the front wheels.
5. Remove the tie rod ends at the steering arms with the
aid of tool 8995409.
6. Remove the two steering gear clamps.
7. Move the rack as far as possible to the right. (R.H.D.
cars to the left.)
INSTALLATION
NOTE
Be careful so that the rubber bellows are not damaged against the edges of the body.
(R.H.D. cars, opposite direction in instructions)
8. Lift the steering gear so far to the right that the tie rod
can be bent down in the opening in the engine compartment floor. (R.H.D. cars, lift the steering gear to the
left.)
BENDING THE TIE ROD DOWN THROUGH THE OPENING
IN THE BODY
9. Pull the rack maximal stroke to the left (R.H.D. cars
ro the right) and lift the steering gear down through
the opening in the engine compartment floor.
642-2
REMOVAL OF STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY
SAAB
1. Pul I the rack maximal stroke to the left and lift up the
steering gear through the hole in the engine compartment floor.
2. Pull the rack maximal stroke to the right and bend up
the left tie rod through the opening in the engine compartment floor.
3. Put the steering gear in place and fit the two clamps.
4. Fit the steering column joint to the steering gear.
Make sure that the retaining screw is situated in the
groove in the steering gear pinion shaft. Fit the
steering column tube to the body.
5. Mount the tie rod ends to the steering arms and fit
the front wheels.
6. Fit the rubber bellows at the intermediate shaft and
install the screen under the instrument panel.
7. Check, if necessary adjust, toe-in and steering wheel
alignment.
Page 653
WARNING
The collapsible steering wheel shaft must be handled
with care It must not be subjected to impacts, jolts
or other rough treatment liable to alter the adjusted
length of the telescope joint or impair its shockabsorbing effect.
When installing the steering wheel shaft, take special
care to ensure that the splined lower end is pushed
into the intermediate shaft until the clamping screw
comes opposite the groove in the shaft. The intermediate shaft should normally slide freely on the shaft.
If the splines stick, do not on any account knock on
the top end of the steering wheel shaft. This also applies to removing and fitting the steering wheel. The
wheel must not be knocked off or on.
When the car is on a hoist, do not seize a front wheel
and twist it by main force to full steering-wheel lock.
There is a very serious risk of dam aging the steering
mechanism if this is done, as the rack-and-pinion
gear will cause the steering wheel to spin at high
speed, imposing a severe torsional strain on the steeriny column when the rotation is arrested by the stop
in the steering gear
4. Remove the outer bearing cups and lock nuts using
tool 8390197 and polygrip pliers.
REMOVING OUTER BEARING CUP AND LOCK NUT
Tool 8390197 and polygrip pliers
5. Undo the rack adjustment screw and remove the cap,
shims, spring and plunger.
DISASSEMBLY
6. Undo the pinion screws and remove the pinion with
1. Back off the lock nuts and unscrew the tie-rod ends.
2. Undo the clips and remove the rubber bellows.
3. Drill out the cotter pins from the inner ball joints using
a 4 mm bit. The pins are 3/8" (9.4 mm) long (see illustration).
cap, gasket, shims and upper bearing.
7. Pull the rack out of the steering gear housing.
8. Remove the lower pinion bearing by tapping the housing on a porous surface. The bushing in the steering
gear housing end can be replaced if necessary.
CAUTION
Do not drill too deep.
ASSEMBLY
Ensure that all parts are scrupulously clean prior to assembly.
LUBRICATION
Lubricate the steering gear moving parts and fill the
gear with 150 cm3 (1.5 di) FLUID GREASE part
no. (45) 30 08 703.
1.
Seat the lower pinion bearing.
CAUTION
Make sure that both pinion bearings are the right
way up. The extended parts of the inner bearing
tracks should face each other.
2.
DRILLING
OUT THE COTTER PIN
Assemble the inner ball joint on the pinion end of
the rack as follows:
Thread the lock nut on to the rack. Oil the parts
and fit the outer bearing cup on the rack. Insert the
spring washer and inner bearing cup and tighten the
bearing cup.
642-3
Page 654
b. Measure the clearance between the cap and housing with a feeler gauge.
LUBRICATION
Lubricate the ball and bearing cups with Molybdenum paste, part no. (45) 30 06 632.
3.
Tighten the bearing cup so that there is no looseness
in the ball joint, but not so tight that the ball sticks
in any position.
If the rack with tie rod mounted is held horizontal,
the ball joint should be so tight that the tie rod with
tie-rod end fitted can be placed in any position without bending down under its own weight.
CAUT'ION
The tie rod must not on any account stick in any
position. It must be possible to move the rod to
its full limit of travel in any direction by light
hand pressure.
r
4.
5.
6.
Tighten the lock nut against the bearing cup using
tool 8390197 and polygrip pliers, and check again
that the ball joint is neither too tight nor too slack.
Drill a new hole for the cotter pin 4 mm in diameter and 3/8" (9.4 mm) deep and insert a new cotter pin, securing it by four center punch blows at
the edge of the hole. Be extremely careful that no
drill shavings get into the steering gear.
Insert the rack in the housing. Then fit the pinion
and upper bearing. Adjust the pinion with shims so
that there is no axial play when the gasket and cap
are mounted. Shims are available in thicknesses of
0.005, 0.007 and 0.01 in. (0.13, 0.19 and 0.25 mm).
A 0.09 in. (2.33 mm) spacer is also available.
Adjust the radial play of the rack as follows:
a. Fit the plunger without the spring and screw on
the cap without the gasket by hand until it butts
against the plunger (see illustration). If a wrench
is used, the cap will be deformed.
It is also possible to adjust the radial play of the
rack when the steering gear is in place in the car.
MEASURING CLEARANCE BElWEEN CAP AND HOUSING
c. Add 0.002" - 0.006" (0.05 - 0.15 mm) to the
measured clearance to allow for the play to be
left between the plunger and cap after assembly.
If for example the feeler gauge measurement is
0.022" (0.55 mm), the total thickness of gasket
and shims should be 0.024" - 0.028" (0.60 0.70 mm).
Measure the thickness of the gasket and shims
with a micrometer (see illustration).
Shims are available in thicknesses of 0.005",
0.0075", 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020" (0.13,
0.19, 0.25, 0.38 and 0.51 mm).
2
MEASURING GASKET AND SHIMS
S 4373
CAP AND PLUNGER FITTED FOR MEASUREMENT OF PLAY
1. Clearance co be measured with feeler gauge
2.Cap
3. Plunger
642-4
....
Page 655
7.
8.
Fit the plunger, spring, shims, gasket and cap.
Check that the rack does not stick in any position
by rotating the pinion with tool 8995284.
10.
11.
12.
Assemble the other ball joint and adjust in the same
manner as before.
Fit the rubber bellows and tighten the clips. Lubricate the contact surface between the rubber bellows and the tie rod with silicone grease. The ends
of the clamp screws should be provided with rubber covers to protect the bellows from chafing.
Screw on the lock nuts and mount the tie rod end
assemblies on the tie rods.
S2-139
CHECKING THAT THE RACK DOES NOT STICK
Tool 8995284
9.
In the correct adjusted steering gear, the torque
should be 1.1-2.0 Nm (0.83-1.5 ft.lb., 11.5-20.7
kpcm). This is checked with the aid of a dynamometer, brake spring tool 8995607 and tool 8995284.
Connect the brake spring tool according to figure.
A lever arm of about 6.03" (16 cm) is then obtained
which corresponds 7-14 N (5.5-11 ft.lb., 0.7-1.4
kp) on the dynamometer.
S3177
CHECKING THE STEERING GEAR TORQUE
Tool 8995607 and dynamometer
642-5
Page 656
CHANGING THE STEERING GEAR RUBBER
BELLOWS
Wear: Feel the exterior of the gaiter to detect whether
the ball of the steering joint is not sitting in the cup.
Take the angle of the tie rod into consideration.
It is suggested that the steering gear is removed from the
car should either of the bellows required replacement.
+
LUBRICATION
Introduce approx. 50 cm3 (0.5 di) FLUID GREASE
to each side when fitting new bellows. Part no.
(45) 30 08 703.
11
00~---+
rJ--+---+k--+-
Fit the rubber covers to the ends of the clamp screws
(protection against chafing).
S 7505
Wear limit, 3.0 mm. Replace the parts
when adjusting the play if the ball is
displaced more than 2.0 mm.
CHECKING FOR WEAR, INNER BALL JOINT
From the point of view of road safety it is particularly
important that the wear on the inner ball joint on older
cars is checked.
The check covers both the PLAY in the ball joint and
WEAR. If the wear tolerances have been exceeded there
is a risk that the tie rod will detatch from the rack.
For a more exact measurement remove the bellows and
use a slide gauge to measure the position of the ball.
LUBRICATION
Checks for wear should be performed even if there
is no play in the steering joints. The steering joints
can previously have been "over-adjusted".
ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING GEAR
Play: Oscillate the wheel towards and away from the body of the car while it is standing on the floor.
·~ =1J~~-e~i+--►-1 -,
S 7504
Max. permissible play 1 _omm
(Noise is audible at 0.1-0.2 mm play)
The adjustments that may be required are as follows:
1. Adjustment of rack radial play.
2. Adjustment of tie-rod inner ball joints.
The steering gear assembly must be removed from the
car for adjustment of the inner ball joints, but the radial
play of the rack can conveniently be adjusted with the
steering gear in place, unless it has had to be removed for
some other reason.
The inner ball joints will seldom need adjustment, as
there is very little wear on them, besides which they are
selfadjusting to some extent.
See, assembling the steering gear.
d
A vernier gauge on a magnetic attachment should be used
for more exact measurement. Attach the gauge above the
tie rod end with the point against the wheel housing. Raise the front suspension unit so that the tie rod is aligned
with the rack.
BALL JOINT, DISASSEMBLED
1. Rack
2. Spring
3. Washer
4. Bearing cap
5. Tie rod
6. Outer bearing cap
642-6
SAt\B
L
Page 657
TIE ROD END ASSEMBLIES
GENERAL
The outer ball joints, the tie rod end assemblies, are
screwed on to the tie rods and secured by lock nuts. By
backing off the lock nuts and twisting the tie rods clockwise or counterclockwise, it is possible to reduce or extend the length of the tie rod. This is how the toe-in of
the front wheels is adjusted.
The tie rod is connected to the steering arm of the steering knuckle housing by a tapered ball bolt, which is secured by a self-locking nut. The tie-rod end assemblies
cannot be disassembled; they adjust themselves to moderate wear and therefore seldom need exchanging.
However, damage caused by external force, as in a collision or crash, may make it necessary to renew both the
tie rods and end assemblies. These components are vital
to vehicle safety and must therefore be checked over with
the utmost care if there is any reason to suspect that they
are damaged or bent.
DISCONNECTING THE STEERING ARM FROM THE TIE ROD
Tool 8995409
5. Unscrew the end assembly from the tie rod.
6. Screw a new end assembly on to the tie rod, but do
not lock it by tightening the nut yet.
7. Connect the ball bolt to the steering arm. Mount the
nut and tighten it to a torque of 35-50 Nm (25-36
ft.lb., 3.5-5.0 kpm).
8. Mount the wheel and lower the car.
9. Check and adjust the toe-in (see section 601).
IMPORTANT
Do not forget to tighten the lock nut on the tie rod
after adjusting.
CHANGING RUBBER BELLOWS
CHANGING TIE ROD END ASSEMBLIES
The tie rod end assemblies cannot be disassembled and
must therefore be exchanged complete if they have worn
loose.
1. Jack up the front of the car and take off the wheel.
2. Remove the nut.
3. Disconnect the ball bolt from the steering arm using
puller 8995409 (see illustration). Do not knock the
ball bolt out, as this is liable to damage the ball bolt
and other parts.
4. Back off the nut that locks the end assembly to the
tie rod.
Each ball joint is protected by a rubber bellows. If this
is damaged and no longer makes a tight seal, it must be
exchanged. The procedure is as follows:
1. Jack up the car and take off the wheel.
2. Remove the nut under the ball bolt of the tie-rod end
assembly.
3. Free the ball bolt from the steering arm, using puller
8995409 (see illustration). Do not attempt to knock
the bolt out, as this is liable to damage both the bolt
and other parts.
4. Remove the damaged bellows from the ball bolt and
fit a new bellows.
5. Connect the ball bolt to the steering arm and put on
the nut, tightening it with a torque wrench to 35-50
Nm (25-36 ft.lb., 3.5-5.0 kpm).
6. Put on the wheel and lower the car.
SUS
I
643-1
Page 659
POWERSTEERING
/3
4
I
I
S4376
POWER STEERING GEAR
1. Servo pump
2. V-belt
4. Steering gear
5. Oil tank
3. Servo valve
COMPONENTS
1. Oil tank, located on the right hand side wheel housing
in the engine compartment near the rear of the wheel
housing. The capacity of the hydraulic system is 1.1
Imp. quarts (1.2 dm3, liters).
2. Oil pump, located under the alternator, driven by a
V-belt from the crankshaft.
The pump has built-in flow control and an overflow
regulator. This means that the flow increases as the
pressure increases. Max. pressure: 56.0 bar (kp/cm2).
Max. flow: 7.04 Imp. quarts/min. (8.0 dm3/min/;l/min.1
3. Delivery hose between pump and servo unit which is
reinforced with textile fibre cord to resist the high
pressures occurring in the hose.
4. Steering gear with power assistance unit, attached to
the engine brackets with a yoke on the right and with
bolts on the left.
SA.Ml
644-1
Page 660
The servo valve is located between the steering column
and the pinion. The valve consists of a torsion rod connected to the steering column and a valve which reacts
to the twist of the torsion bar. The valve controls the
flow of oil to each side of the servo piston, which is
connected to the rack.
Driving straight ahead
Turning to the right
A
C
SERVO VALVE FUNCTION
A
B
C
D
Servo pressure from the oil pump
Return to oil reservoir
To the servo cylinder (power assistance for turning right)
To the servo cylinder (power assistance for turning left)
The seals separate the hydraulic servo system of the
steering gear from the mechanical gearing and the
inner ball joints.
The gear section and the inner ball joints are oiled separately. A bleeder line joins the two sides of the steering
gear and enables lubricating oil to bypass the hydraulic
section. The steering gear contains 6.5 fl.oz. (0.19 dm 3 ,
1.9 di) of oil.
WARNING
The oil pump can be damaged by the following
causes:
1. If the steering wheel is kept against one of the
end positions with a strong torque and the engine is running at the same time can the oil
pump be overheated and damaged.
2. If dirt is entering the hydraulic system, for example when checking or filling oil.
3. If the pump is allowed to run without oil in the
hydraulic system.
Servo pressure
40
30
20
10
Steering wheel torque
50
40
30
20
10
0
10
30
40
50 Kpcm
S 4079
DIAGRAM STEERING WHEEL TORQUE -
644-2
20
SAAB
SERVO PRESSURE