Page 421
CLUTCH
The release bearing consists of a ball bearing with a specially designed elongated outer ring which presses directly against the diaphragm spring when the clutch is let out.
GENERAL
The car is fitted with a single dry plate clutch of diaphragm spring type. The principal clutch components
are the disc, pressure plate assembly and release bearing.
The clutch disc consists of a resilient steel plate attached
to a hub which slides on splines on the clutch shaft. The
clutch linings are riveted to both sides of the disc.
The pressure plate assembly consists chiefly of the pressure plate, pressure spring (diaphragm spring) and housing. The spring acts as a lever and as pressure spring. The
pressure plate assembly is an integral unit and must not
be disassembled.
Operation of the clutch is hydraulic. The clutch pedal
acts on a master cylinder which is connected by a hose
to a slave cylinder mounted on the transmission case. In
1975 model cars, the slave cylinder is mounted on the
clutch cover. Movement is transferred from the slave cylinder to the release bearing by means of a lever. The lever
is jointed at an adjusting screw with which the play between the release bearing and the diaphragm spring can
be adjusted. As from model 1976, the slave cylinder is
annular and is mounted inside the clutch cover round
the clutch shaft. The slave cylinder acts directly on the
release bearing and adjustment of the clutch is automatic.
PRESSURE PLATE
1
5
CLUTCH OPERATION
MODEL 1975
AS FROM MODEL 1976
6
9
1. Pressure plate
2. Housing
3. Diaphragm spring
4. Pressure bearing rings
5. Release bearing
6. Slave cylinder
7. Master cylinder
8. Clutch pedal
9. Clutch fluid container
7
411-1
Page 422
REMOVAL
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Drain off the coolant through the radiator drain
cock.
Remove the engine hood (see Group 2).
Disconnect the battery earth cable.
Disconnect the cable harness from the fan housing
and the cables to the ignition coil, oil pressure
switch, temperature transmitter, headlamp wiper
motor and the fan thermal switch on the radiator.
Disconnect the hoses from the radiator.
Remove the grille.
Remove the front sheet and radiator.
Remove the clutch cover screws and remove the
Gover.
Mount spacer 8390023 between the clutch cover
and the diaphragm spring. On fitting the spacer,
have an assistant depress the clutch pedal.
1
1
S6121
CLUTCH HOUSING, DIFFERENT
VERSIONS
1. Use spacer 83 90 023
2. Use spacer 87 90 826 (this type of clutch is only fitted to
model 1976)
If it is not possible to activate the slave cylindar in
the normal manner the connection can be made
using lever 83 93 175.
10.
Model 1975:
a. Remove the spring at the slave cylinder.
b. Slacken the clutch adjustment by backing off
the adjusting screw, undo and lower the clutch
lever.
~
11.
Remove the retaining clip (lock ring up to and incl.
model 1977) and seal cap from the clutch shaft.'
Remove the plastic propeller (and 0-ring up to and
incl. model 1977) from the clutch shaft· ..
Withdraw the clutch shaft by means of tool
8390270 and joint 8390015.
12.
-·
MOUNTING SPACER 8390023-
A clutch housing of a special design has been fitted
to a small number of 1976 model cars. A special
spacer, 8790826, which is deeper than the standard
spacer, must be used to remove the housing.
411-2
13.
l
Page 423
.......
;-
forming a seal with the sealing surface of the upper
primary gear.
On models 1976 and 1977, the seal is located in a special seal retainer inside the slave cylinder and forms a
seal with the sealing surface of the upper primary gear.
As from model 1978, the seal is located inside the slave
cylinder in the primary gear case and forms a direct
seal with the seaiing surface of the clutch shaft.
Refer to section 471 for changing of the clutch shaft seal.
1.
REMOVING THE CLUTCH SHAFT
Tool 8390270 and joint 8390015
14.
15.
Remove the three bolts by which the slave cylinder
(guide sleeve) is secured to the primary gear casing.
Remove the clutch retaining screws and remove together the clutch, clutch disc and slave cylinder
(guide sleeve) and release bearing. It is not necessary
to disconnect the hydraulic hose on the slave cylinder. · ".}
CAUTION
As from model 1976:
Take care that the diaphragm spring does not damage the slave cylinder sleeve during installation. Damage to the sleeve can result in the pistion seizing. Epsure that the hardened side of the release bearing is
turned towards the diaphragm spring.
CAUTION
As from model 1976:
Take care that the diaphragm spring does not damage the slave cylinder sleeve.
2.
3.
REMOVING THE CLUTCH DISC, SLAVE CYLINDER
CLUTCH
Install together the clutch, clutch disc and slave cylinder (guide sleeve) with release bearing in the
clutch cover and loosely fit two of the clutch bolts.
Bolt the slave cylinder (guide sleeve) to the primary gear casing.
Install the clutch shaft. Grease the splines for the
primary gear using "Molycote pasta G".
AND
ASSEMBLY
Before installing the clutch, check the clutch shaft seal:
On model 1975, the seal is located in the guide sleeve
- Pil ilrsmodell 1975 ar tatningsringen placerad i styr-
FITTING
THE CLUTCH SHAFT
N.B. In the case of early 1976 model cars, the
clutch shaft is such that the splines only reach the
clutch disc when the lock ring has engaged the primary gear. Therefore, when installing the dutch
....
SftUI
.
·..
411-3
Page 424
4.
5.
6.
7.
shaft, keep the clutch disc a short distance away
from the flywheel.
Fit the plastic propeller and 0-ring to the clutch
shaft.
Fit the sealing cap and 0-ring at the clutch shaft.
Screw the clutch assembly to the flywheel.
Up to and including model 1975:
a. Install the clutch lever in the correct position
and mount the slave cylinder.
b. Tighten the adjusting screw so that the clutch is
released when the clutch pedal is depressed and
remove the spacer 8390023.
c. Adjust the clearance between the diaphragm
spring and the release bearing by means of the
adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut. The
clearance between the diaphragm spring and the
release bearing should be 0.06 in. (1.5 mm),
which corresponds to 0.12 ± 0.02 in. (3 ± 0.5
mm) when the measurement is made at the outer end of the clutch lever.
WITHDRAWING THE LOCK RING
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Fit the clutch cover.
Fit the front panel and radiator.
Install the grille.
Connect the water hoses and electric cables. Fill
the radiator with coolant.
Mount the engine hood and connect the battery.
Check the headlight alignment.
Checking clutch wear, as from model 1976
Wear on the clutch disc can be checked through an inspection hole in the clutch cover. The inspection hole, which is
equipped with a rectangular cover plate, has been introduced in production as from model 1978 (cars with chaindrive primary gear).
On earlier models, cut a 1.0 in. (25 mm) dia. hole in the
corresponding position by means of a hole saw. Seal the
hole with a rubber plug.
MEASURING CLUTCH CLEARANCE, UP TO AND INCL.
MODEL 1975
1. Adjusting screw
2. Lock nut
7.
3. Clutch lever
4. Slave cylinder
As from model 1976:
Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal while
you remove spacer 8390023.
CAUTION
Do not depress the pedal further than is necessary
to release the tool. There is otherwise a danger of
the lip seal being pressed out too far, with the result that hydraulic fluid will escape and the seal
will be damaged.
8.
With an assistant keeping the clutch pedal depressed,
slide the sliding lock ring towards the slave cylinder.
REMOVING THE COVER PLATE FROM THE CLUTCH COVER
411-4
SA.ftB
Page 425
1. Disengage the clutch and then release the pedal. The
release bearing will then be in contact with the fingers
on the pressure plate.
2. Through the inspection hole, check that the sliding
lock ring on the piston in the slave cylinder is in contact with the cylinder walls.
3. Check the distance between the sliding lock ring and
the lock ring behind the release bearing.
CHANGING CLUTCH LININGS
1. Drill out the old rivets and remove the old linings.
2. Check that the seat of the tongues is regular and that
the disc is not out of true. Check also that the rivets
in the hub are secure and that there are no cracks. The
disc must slide freely on the clutch shaft without any
radial play.
3. Rivet on the new linings. Check the thickness of the
linings (see below for check data for clutch discs)
CORRECT POSITION OF CLUTCH LINING RIVETS
CLUTCH DISC
Inspection of dismantled clutch and changing clutch
linings
1. Inspect the surface of the flywheel where the clutch
6
disc makes contact. Blueing or small cracks on the
surface are of no particular importance, but if there
are any deep scratches the flywheel ought to be
machined down or-exchanged.
2. Check the pressure plate in the pressure plate assembly for scratches and distortion. If there are any irregularities the plate should be exchanged.
3. Check the release bearing for noise, wear, etc.
4. Check the disc for wear and fit new linings if necessary.
5. Before riveting on the new linings, check and if necessary adjust the set of the disc.
S 6595
NEW CLUTCH DISC
1. Sliding lock ring
2. Lock ring
Check data for clutch disc:
The thickness of the cltuch disc should be 0.280.30 in. (7.11-7.62 mm) Turbo cars: 0.27-0.29
in. (6.86-7.37 mm) under a compressive force of
4230 N, 948 lb. (430 kp) applied between two
parallel surfaces. The clutch disc should clear the
surfaces after they have been withdrawn 0.05 in.
(1.27 mm) from the loaded position.
INSPECTING THE PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY
S 6596
Check the pressure plate for cracks and scratches. Check
that the surface of the plate is not cambered, using a rule
and feeler gauge as illustrated. A gap of not more than
0-1
WORN DISC
SN,'8
411-,!i
Page 426
CHECKING THE PRESSURE PLATE
0.0012" (0.03 mm) is allowable at the inner edge of the
friction surface, but there must be no gap at all between
the rule and the outer edge of the friction surface. Make
this check at several points. Check that the pressure spring
is not cracked or otherwise damaged.
Check that the release bearing turns freely when rotated
under slight axial pressure.
411-6
SAAB
Page 427
CLUTCH CONTROL
MASTER CYLINDER, R.H.D.-CARS
REMOVING AND INSTALLING THE CLUTCH PEDAL
General
1. Remove the split pin and washer and pull out the
shaft bolt for the master cylinder push rod.
2. Unhook the clutch pedal return spring.
3. Remove the axle bolt and the pedal.
4. Remove the spring if necessary.
5. Lubricate the pedal bearing with chassis grease before
reassembling.
The master cylinder consists of a cast housing surrounded
by a sheet metal fluid container. The operating elements
consist of a push rod, piston, piston seal and return spring
(see illustration). The end of the push rod is sealed by a
rubber bellows.
Reassemble in the reverse order.
ADJUSTING CLUTCH PLAY, MODEL 1975
The clutch play, i.e. the clearance between the release
bearing and the diaphragm spring, is regulated by an
adjusting screw that threads into the transmission case
and acts as the fulcrum of the clutch lever. The gap is
increased when the screw is backed off. The gap should
be checked at the outer end of the clutch lever (see illustration), where it should be 0.12 ± 0.02" (3 ± 0.5 mm).
~
_/
2
3
----4
lo.Ga.>---5
S 1800.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
ADJUSTING
1. Housing
2. Spring
3. Spring retainer
4. Seal
5. Washer
6. Piston
THE CLUTCH PLAY, MODEL 1975
7. Seal
8. Lock ring
9. Sealing bellows
10. Push rod
11. Shaft bolt
REMOVING THE RELEASE BEARING (AND CLUTCH
LEVER), MODEL 1975
Removing
To remove the release bearing or clutch lever, proceed in
the same manner as when removing the clutch.
1. Disconnect the hose from the slave cylinder aod pump
out the fluid into a clean container.
2. Disconnect the push rod from the clutch pedal by removing the split pin and shaft bolt.·
3. Undo the retaining screws and remove the master cylinder.
Remove the release bearing together with the clutch and
slave cylinder (guide sleeve).
5"1'11
---
412-1
Page 428
Installing
Disassembling(R.H.D. and L.H.D. versions)
1. Mount the master cylinder.
Pull back the sealing bellows and remove the lock ring
with a pair of pliers. Take out the push rod with the
washer. The piston and its seal is now visible. Remove
the piston, washer, piston seal and spring. Take the seal
carefully off the piston. Examine the cylinder walls; if
they are smooth and unscratched, new seals can be fitted,
but if the surface of the cylinder bore is rough, a complete new cylinder should be installed. If the old seals on
the piston are enlarged or swollen, they are probably
contaminated with mineral oil; this is the most common
cause of cylinder malfunction. Seals made of natural
rubber ~re very sensitive to mineral oil, and even small
quantities of oil can cause them to swell with time. If
this is suspected, change all the seals and flush the system with clean hydraulic brake fluid.
2. Connect the push rod to the clutch pedal by inserting
the shaft bolt through the holes in the fork of the push
rod and the hole in the clutch pedal. Locate the push
rod and secure with the split pin.
3. Connect the hose.
4. Bleed the system.
MASTERCYLINDER LH.D.CARS
General
The master cylinder is placed under the servo unit and is
actuated by a push rod from the clutch pedal. In the cylinder is besides the push rod, piston, piston seals and return spring. The clutch fluid container is incorporated in
the brake fluid container completely separated from the
brake fluid. From the container a hose leads to the clutch
cylinder.
Assembling ( R.H.D. and L.H.D. versions)
Fit the return spring with its retainer. Lubricate the piston and seals thoroughly with Girling Rubber Grease 3
and fit the packing, washer and piston with seals.
NOTE
The washer must be fitted with the convex side
facing the piston (see illustration).
o)
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1. Housing
2. Spring with seat
3. Sealing
Removal
(L.H.D. CARS)
4. Washer
5. Piston and rear seal
6. Push rod with stop washers, lock ring and
bellows
I
. S 4539
1. Detach the clamp holding the pipe from the clutch
cylinder at the body and remove the pipe at the cylinder.
2. Remove the left hand screen under the instrument
panel.
3. Remove the pin holding the push rod to the clutch
pedal.
4. Remove the nuts inside the dash panel and remove the
clutch cylinder from the engine compartment. Pull off
the hose from the fluid container and hang it up so
that the fluid is not coming out.
CORRECT POSITION OF THE WASHER
Fit the push rod into the cylinder, followed by the washer and lock ring, which are located in the cylinder housing groove. Replace the sealing bellows or fit a new bellows if the old one is damaged.
Installation
SLAVE CYLINDER, MODEL 1975
_..
1. Connect the hose from the container to the cylinder.
2. Put the cylinder in place and install the nuts from inside the car.
3. Connect the push rod to the pedal.
4. Install the left hand screen under the instrument panel.
5. .Cemiject the clutch pipe, fill fluid and bleed the system.
~....
~ Sf'~
...
·,~"'·'
412'~2
~AD
.........
The slave cylinder is mounted on the left side of the
clutch cover and comprises a cast-iron housing with an
operating unit consisting of a push rod, piston, and piston seal. A rubber cap seals the end of the push rod. The
cylinder housing is provided with a bleeder nipple.
Page 429
2 3
SLAVE CYLINDER, AS FROM MODEL 1976
4
The slave cylinder is an annular hydraulic cylinder
mounted inside the clutch cover and enclosing the clutch
shaft. The slave cylinder consists of an outer cylinder
housing and an internal sleeve, between which there is an
annular piston and a lip seal. The release bearing is locked
to the piston by means of an O-ring and a lock ring.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the slave cylinder piston and release bearing act directly on the diaphragm
spring of the clutch. When the pedal is released, the release bearing and pistons are returned by means of the
diaphragm spring. Further return of the piston is prevented by the friction of the lip seal in the slave cylinder
and by a sliding lock ring on the slave cylinder piston.
This means that when the clutch pedal is in the rest position, the release bearing is in contact with the diaphragm
spring. Adjustment of the clutch is automatic owing to
the fact that the sliding lock ring on the piston moves
along the piston in pace with the wear to the clutch lining.
6
SLAVE CYLINDER,
1. Push rod
2. Sealing cap
3. Lock ring
MODEL 1975
4. Piston
5. Piston seal
6. Housing
5
-------------- 2
7
S 6122
SLAVE CYLINDER,
AS FROM MODEL 1976
1. Slave.cylinder housing
2. Sle.eve
3. Piston
4. Lip seal
5. O-ring
6. Release bearing
7. O-ring
8. Lock ring
9. Lock ring
5'11'&
.L
412-3,
T
Page 430
DISMANTLING THE SLAVE CYLINDER
1. Remove the release bearing from the slave cylinder.
2. Press out the slave cylinder sleeve and remove the Oring from the flange of the sleeve.
1
----------
THE SLEEVE IS GUIDED BY THE PISTON
"'"
4. Place the slave cylinder on a suitable support (e.g. a
spare slave cylinder piston) and press the sleeve into
the cylinder.
S 5237
•
PRESSING OUT THE CYLINDER SLEEVE
3. Remove the piston and lip seal.
ASSEMBLY
Make sure that the slave cylinder has been thoroughly
cleaned. Wash the parts in brake fluid or a special cleaning
fluid for hydraulic brake components, e.g. a mixture of
cleaning spirit and acetone.
Thoroughly clean the slave cylinder using a mixture of
70 % cleaning spirit and 30 % acetone.
The lip seal should never be allowed to come into contact
with mineral oil. Apply a thin coating of Castro! Rubber
Grease to the lip seal (not in the groove) and to the piston
(but not the O-ring).
1. Fit the O-ring to the flange of the sleeve.
2. Slide the lip seal onto the sleeve. Dip the flange of the
sleeve in brake fluid and insert the sleeve into the cylinder. Insert the lip seal part of the way into the cylinder.
3. Guide the sleeve and the cylinder upwards by pushing
in the piston. The two lock rings and the O-ring should
be fitted to the piston.
412-4
PRESSIN.G THE SLEEVE INTO THE CYLINDER
5. Fit the release bearing to the piston, ensuring that the