Page 161
CRANKSHAFT (CRANK MECHANISM)
MEASURING THE CRANKSHAFT
Clean the crankshaft and measure its journals with a mi•
crometer. Measurements should be made at several points
round the surface. Out-of-round at the main bearing jour•
nals and big-end bearing journals should not exceed
0.002" (0.05 mm).
If the measurements are close to or over the started limit
of wear, the crankshaft should be ground down to undersizes according to specification.
The journals can be ground down one step below nominal size without re-hardening. If they are ground more
than one step, the shaft must be "tenifer-hardened" again.
Check that the crankshaft is straight to within 0.002"
(0.05 mm) by indicating it; mount the shaft in two Vblocks, place an indicator against the center journal, and
rotate the shaft.
3. Fit the cap and tighten to a torque of 108 Nm (79
ft.lb., 11 kpm). The crankshaft must not be turned
during the measurement.
4. Remove the cap. The strip should by now have been
firmly pressed into the bearing cap or onto the bigend bearing journal.
5. Measure the width of the Plastigage strip using the
scale printed on the Plastigage package and read off
the clearance. One side of the package gives the dimension in mm, the other side in thousandths of
inches. Measure the strip at its widest point, but do
not touch it with your fingers.
MEASURING THE CLEARANCE
Before the bearing clearance is measured in connection
with the fitting of new beari.ngs,the out-of-round and
taper of the big-end bearing journals should be checked.
This clearance can be measured with a "Plastigage" which
can be obtained as spare parts number (45) 300 65 58.
The Plastigage is available in three thicknesses. Type
PG-1 (green) should be used.
READING THE CLEARANCE
Instructionsfor useof Plastigage
Main bearings
Big-end bearings
The Plastigage can be used to measure both out-of-round
and clearance.
1. Place the engine with the cylinder head plane downwards to prevent the weight of the crankshaft from
affecting the measurement.
2. Ensure that the parts which are to be measured are
free from oil and dirt. Put a strip of Plastigageabout
0.24" (6 mm) to the side of the centreline.
Plastigage strips cannot be used to measure out-of-round
with the pistons fitted in the block. A micrometer should
be used instead.
Big-end bearing clearance can be measured in connection
with the fitting of new bearings as follows.
1. Turn the crank which is to be measured to a position
about 60° before the top dead centre.
2. Ensure that those parts which are to be measured are
dry and free from oil and dirt. Place a strip of Plastigage
0.24" (6 mm) to the side of the centreline.
PLASTIGAGE STRIP PLACED ON THE MAIN BEARING
JOURNAL
UAB
216-1
Page 162
NOTE
The crankshaft journals may be ground down one
undersize (0.25 mm) without necessitating hardening
of the shaft. If the crankshaft is ground down more
than one undersize, the shaft must be tenifer-hardened again.
CHANGING THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL (SEAL RING)
AT THE FLYWHEEL END
THE PLAST.IGAGE STRIP PLACED ON THE BIG-END
BEARING JOURNAL
3. Fit the cap and tighten to a torque of 54 Nm (39 ft.lb.,
5.5 kpm). The crankshaft must not be turned during
the measurement.
See further in points 4 and 5, main bearings.
The seal can be changed with the engine in place in the
car. The clutch and flywheel must first be removed.
1. Remove the old seal ring, using a screwdriver.
2. Fit a new seal with the spring ring turned inwards towards the crankshaft. Grease the sealing surfaces of
the seal prior to fitting. Use installing tool 8392540
or earlier tools 8391971 and 8391922.
CHOICE OF BEARING HALVES FOR MAIN AND
BIG-END BEARINGS
Bearing halves are available in two different classesfor
standard size, 1st undersize and 2nd undersize. The two
classesare of different thickness and can be combined
to obtain the proper clearance. For the 3rd and 4th undersizes, bearing halves are only available in one thickness.
The classified bearing halves are colour-coded as follows:
Standard size:
Red - thin bearing half, gives I NCR EASED clearance
Blue - thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
1st undersize:
Yellow - thin bearing half, gives I NCR EASED clearance
Green - thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
2nd undersize:
White - thin bearing half, gives INCREASED clearance
Brown - thicker bearing half, gives REDUCED clearance
Example:
First try to obtain the proper clearance by fitting two
thin bearing halves. If the clearance is too large between
two thin bearing halves, fit a thin and a thick or two
thick halves to reduce the clearance.
If the clearance is too large even after two thick bearing
halves have been fitted, the crankshaft must be ground
down to the next possible unde~ize and bearing halves
of corresponding size fitted. See Group 0.
216-2
FITTING THE SEAL
Tool 8392540 (or 8391971, 8391963 and 8391922)
3. Pressthe seal ring into the seal cap by knocking the
drift with a heavy mallet.
Page 163
Lock the crankshaft against the sprocket using tab washer
83 92 987.
Manual gear box: fit the tool into the aperture on the
lower side of the primary gear housing.
CHANGING THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL (SEAL RING)
AT THE TRANSMISSION END
Power unit out of car and pulley removed.
1. Remove the seal ring.
LOCKING SEGMENT FITTED
Automatic transmission: remove the torque converter cover and fit the tool.
REMOVING THE SEAL RING
2. Lubricate the lips of the new seal liberally with grease.
3. Use installing tool 8391880 and drift 8390445.
Make sure that the keyway on the installing tool is in
line with the key on the end of the crankshaft. Press
the seal ring into the transmission cover.
Tool 8392987
4. Raise the car by means of a hoist.
5. From beneath the car, remove the pulley retaining
screw using special wrench 83 92 961 and remove the
pulley.
INSTALLING
THE SEAL RING
Tools 8391880 and 8390445
Power unit mounted
1. Remove the fan belt (and the V-belt for the pump in
cars with power assisted steering and the V-belt for
the compressor in cars with air conditioning).
2. Move the power unit slightly forward by inserting two
wooden wedges between the bulkhead and the engine.
This wil I be easier if the engine mounting nuts are first
removed.
3. Insert the seal using insertion tool 83 92 979 and the
pully bolt.
REMOVING THE PULLEY RETAINING SCREW
SA.Ml
216-3
Page 164
REMOVING THE PULLEY
INSTALLING
THE SEAL RING
6. Prize off the old seal ring by means of a screwdriver.
8. Fit the pulley and tighten the retaining bolt to the
specified torque using special wrench 83 92 961 and
a torque wrench.
Tightening torque with torque wrench, length 15.8 in.
(400 mm) attached to special wrench 83 92 961:
2.0 I engine
70 Nm (51.7 ft.-lb., 7.0 kpm)
which gives a torque of 190 Nm
(137.7 ft.-lb., 19 kpm) at the
screw
1.85 I engine
35 Nm (25.8 ft.-lb., 3.5 kpm)
which gives a torque of 83 Nm
(61 ft.-lb., 8.3 kpm) at the
screw)
REMOVING THE OLD SEAL RING
· 7. Grease the sealing lip of the new ring and press it into
position using sleeve 83 92 979 and the pulley retaining bolt.
SEAL INSTALLING
SLEEVE 83 92 979
TIGHTENING
THE RETAINING
SCREW
Special wrench 83 92 961 and torque wrench
216-4
Page 165
9. From the engine compartment:
Remove the wooden wedges, refit the engine mounting
nuts (when applicable) and fit the fan belt (or V-belts).
3. Fit a new clutch shaft bearing in the flywheel, using
drift 8391997.
Variation depending on length of torque key:
2.0 I engine:
Length, torque key
11.8 in. (300 mm)
15.8 in. (400 mm)
19. 7 in. (500 mm)
Torque approx.
55 Nm (40.6 ft.-lb., 5,5 kpm)
70 Nm (51.7 ft.-lb., 7.0 kpm)
80 Nm (59.0 ft.-lb., 8.0 kpm)
1.7 and 1.85 I engine:
Len~th, torque key
11.8 in. (300 mm)
15.8 in. (400 mm)
19.7 in. (500 mm)
Torque approx.
30 Nm (22.1 ft.-lb., 3.0 kpm)
35 Nm (25.8 ft.-lb., 3.5 kpm)
35 Nm (25.8 ft.-lb., 3.5 kpm)
FITTING THE CLUTCH SHAFT BEARING
Tool8391997
CHANGING THE SEAL RING ON REMOVED TRANSMISSION COVER
1. Remove the old seal ring.
MEASURING AND SHIMMING THE CRANKSHAFT
SPROCKET ON CRANKSHAFT AFTER INSTALLATION OF NEW PARTS
2. Put the cover on a level surface to avoid damaging the
sealing surface. Pressthe seal ring into the cover, using
installing tool 8390445.
NOTE
If the transmission cover is removed or fitted when
the engine is fitted to the gearbox, the seal between
the cover and the gearbox will be damaged.
When a new crankshaft, idler shaft or sprocket has been
installed, the crankshaft sprocket must be shimmed to
align it with the idler shaft sprocket, as there will otherwise be excessive wear on the chain transmission.
Measure the sprocket alignment as follows:
1. Lay the edge of a rule against the idler shaft sprocket
as close as possible to the center of the sprocket and
lying across the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that
the edge of the rule butts flat against the idler shaft
sprocket across its full width and press it hard against
the sprocket.
CHANGING THE CLUTCH SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the clutch shaft bearing from the flywheel,
using drift 8391997.
CHECKING ALIGNMENT
OF CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
2. Adjust the axial position of the crankshaft sprocket
if necessary, using shims or grinding to align the idler
REMOVING THE CLUTCH SHAFT BEARING
Tool8391997
SAAB
211--5
Page 166
shaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket in the same
plane.
If the crankshaft sprocket is grinded, great care must
be taken, so that no axial throw will occur.
CHANGING THE IDLER SHAFT
Disassembling
1. Take off the alternator drive belt and the crankshaft
belt pulley.
2. Undo the transmission cover screws and tap the cover
gently forward to unseat it from the locating studs
without damaging the gaskets.
3. Turn the crankshaft to TDC for No. 1 cylinder. The
distributor rotor arm should then also be in the ignition position for No. 1 cylinder.
4. Remove the distributor.
5. Remove the sprocket from the idler shaft. Do not turn
the crankshaft as the setting must not be disturbed.
NOTE! Hold the idler shaft sprocket when the centre
screw is to be removed. The idler shaft must never be
held by means of the water pump or distributor drive.
6. Undo the two screws from the chain tensioner and
twist the tensioner up out of the way.
7. Remove the idler shaft.
If the transmission casing gasket is damaged in the course
of assembly or disassembly, a new gasket piece must be
cut to shape and glued in place with Tikatat 2. Apply the
adhesive to the transmission casing flange at the gasket
joints. Allow the adhesive to harden for a while, then position the gasket piece and let it dry on thoroughly before
mounting the transmission cover.
Assembling
1. Fit the idler shaft and fixing plate. Tighten the two
countersunk screws to prescribed torque.
2. Fit a new locating pin in the new idler shaft.
3. Fit the chain on the sprocket in the correct position
relative to the hole in the fixing plate (see illustration).
Turn the idler shaft until the locating pin and hole
corresponds and the sprocket can be mounted. Then
check that the guide sleeve is flush with the sprocket.
216-6
SAftB
IDLER SHAFT MARKING. THE BULGE IN THE HOLE ON
THE IDLER SHAFT CHAINWHEEL SHOULD LINE UP
WITH THE SMALL HOLE IN THE KEEPER PLATE.
4. Mount the locking plate with the retaining screw.
Place a suitable dolly through one of the holes in the
----··--sprocket and tighten the screw. Lock the screw with
the locking plate.
5. Turn the chain tensioner self-adjuster into its innermost position. Mount the chain tensioner and stretch
the chain. Adjust the chain to obtain play of 0.020.04" (0.5-1 mm) between the tensioner and the pad.
6. Fit the transmission cover. NOTE! Before fitting the
cover, knock the guide studs a fraction of an inch (a •
few mm) deeper into the cylinder block.
•
7. Fit the belt pulley and alternator drive belt.
8. Mount the distributor and adjust the ignition timing.
See section "Installing of engine".
Page 167
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
1. Undo the four retaining screws that pass through the
corners of the pump.
2. Remove the pump and the sealing ring between the
pump and the intermediate plate.
DISMANTLING
1. Remove the two screws holding the cover and the
pump housing together.
2. Separate the cover and the pump housing.
3. Remove the rotors and the 0-ring from the housing.
4. Remove the pressure reducing valve located in the
cover by pulling out the locking pin first and then removing the plug, the 0-ring, the spring and the valve
piston.
CHECKING CLEARANCE AND WEAR
Check the axial clearance of the inner and outer rotors
to the rotor housing with a rule and feeler gauge. The
clearance should be 0.00197-0.00354" (0.05-0.09 mm).
CHECKING EVENNESS OF COVER
REASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate the rotors with engine oil and refit. NOTE!
The camfered edge of the outer rotor faces inwards
in the pump housing (towards the drive shaft).
2. Fit the pressure reducing valve in the pump cover:
a. Fit the valve piston, the spring and the plug with
the 0-ring.
b. Fit the locking pin.
3. Fit the pump housing 0-ring and the cover.
2
4
5
CHECKING THE AXIAL
CLEARANCE
If the clearance must be adjusted, grind the sealing surface of the housing or the sides of the rotor with fine
emery cloth on a flat wheel.
Check the evenness of the cover with a rule, see illustration. All deformities, scratches and pits are to be removed by grinding.
OIL PUMP
1. O-ring
2. Pump housing
3. O-ring
4. Rotors
5. Cover
6. Valve piston
7. Spring
8. Plug
9. O-ring
10. Locking pin
221-1
Page 168
ASSEMBLY
1. Fit the O-ring between the pump and the intermediate
plate, push in the pump and turn it so that the pump
drive engages in the rotor.
2. Fit and tighten the four retaining screws.
221-2
Page 169
OIL FILTER
REPLACEMENT OF FILTER CARTRIDGE
1. Free the oil filter cartridge with a special wrench (tool
7862014).
[
REMOVAL OF OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE
Tool 7362014
2. Lubricate the rubber seal of the new cartridge and
screw in the cartridge until the seal is in place up
against the intermediate piece. Then tighten an additional half turn.
NOTE
If the filter cartridge is tiQhtened too hard there is a
risk that oil will leak out, as the rubber seal may be
twisted in its rack.
SAAB
222-1
Page 170
OIL COOLER
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Drain the coolant through the radiator drain cock.
2. Undo the oil hoses.
_3. Undo the hose clamps and remove the oil cooler.
Install in the reverse order.
ADAPTER
Removal and installation
1. Remove the oil filter.
2. Undo the oil hoses at the oil cooler.
3. Unscrew the adapter.
Install in the reverse order. Make sure that the O-ring isn't
damaged. Tighten the adapter somewhat harder than the
oil filter, avoiding the adapter to come loose when changing oil filter.
223-1
SAftEI
J