Page 141
30.
31.
32.
Undo the main bearing screws and remove the bearing caps.
Lift out the crankshaft.
Remove the bearing halves and thrust bearing washers and put them carefully aside so that they can be
reassembled in their original positions.
ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE
Instructions for measuring the main bearing and big-end
bearing clearance and choice of bearing halves, see section 216.
1. Place the bearing halves in the main bearing journals and lubricate the bearings with engine oil.
2. Locate the crankshaft carefully in the bearing journals.
3. Locate the thrust bearing washers. Check the axial
play with a feeler gauge.
MARKS ON CONNECTING RODS. MAIN BEARINGS AND
CYLINDER BLOCK
5.
Tighten the main bearing bolts to the specified torque.
Torque
INSTALLING
108 Nm (79ft.lb./11
kpm)
THE THRUST BEARING
TIGHTEN THE MAIN BEARING SCREWS
6.
Fit the gable plate with the crankshaft seal towards
the mating surface of the engine block. Grease the
inner circlip of the sealing ring. Fit a new gasket on
the gable plate and trim it flush with the mating
surface of the transmission.
LOCATION OF THRUST BEARING WASHERS
4.
Mount the main bearing caps with bearing halves
already in position and oiled. (NOTE! Make sure
the markings match up! ) The main bearing caps
are numbered; No. 1 goes at the transmission chain
end and the others run consecutively to the flywheel end with the bearing locks facing each other.
To each number on the bearing caps, corresponds
a cast number on the crankcase.
GABLE PLATE FITTED
210-5
Page 142
7.
Fit the flywheel (driver disc). Apply Loctite Pipe
Sealant 68 or the equivalent to the screw threads.
Torque
60 Nm (44 ft.lb./6,0 kpm)
PISTON MARKINGS
9.
a. Fit the big-end bearing caps so that the figures
face the same way as those on the connecting
rod, i.e. away from the idler shaft.
b. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
Torque
TIGHTEN THE FLYWHEEL SCREWS TO SPECIFIED TORQUE
8.
10.
54 r--.J,m
(40 ft.lb./5.5 kpm)
a. Install the idler shaft and fit the keeper plate.
CAUTION
The idler shaft is available in two versions which
· must not be confused.
Idler shafts of the later version are made of castiron and the gears for the distributor and water
pump have a larger number of cogs.
Install the pistons and connecting rods using tool
7862287. Make sure that the studs are still protected by their plastic sleeves. The connecting rods
and big-end bearing caps are numbered to match
the corresponding cylinders. Instructions for fitting
piston rings are given on page 210-10.
b. Mount the sprocket on the idler shaft.
Fit the water pump (see section 262).
11.
CAUTION
The water pump is available in two versions. Later
version pump shafts are made of cast-iron and the
gear for the idler shaft is of different design.
The two types of pump must never be confused.
Tapping-out hammers or the like must never be
used in the assembly of pumps of the later version.
12.
INSTALLING
a. Mount the sprocket on the crankshaft.
b. Align the O degree mark on the flywheel with
the mark on the cylinder block.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
Tool7862287
NOTE
The groove on top of the piston should be facing
the transmission end.
/
/
/
/
210-6
&AMI
/
Page 143
NOTE
Turn the camshaft bearing assembly so that the
feeler gauge orifices point upwards.
FLYWHEEL AND CYLINDER BLOCK MARKINGS
13.
Fit the cylinder head gasket. Fit two locating pins,
tool 8392128.
16.·
17.
18.
19.
20.
FITTING THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
Tool8392128
14.
a. Mount the cylinder head.
b. Tighten the screws in two steps.
Torque
Mount the adjusting pallets and valve depressors.
Fit the camshaft.
Fit the camshaft bearing caps. Note the marks.
Mount the straight chain guide plate.
Check that the setting marks on the crankshaft,
camshaft al')d idler shaft are in the right position,
i.e. the ignition position for the first cylinder.
Step 1: 60 Nm (44 ft.lb./6.0 kpm)
Step 2: 95 Nm (70 ft.lb./9.5 kpm)
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.
c. Do the final tightening after the engine has been
allowed to cool for about 30 minutes.
Mount the camshaft bearing assembly.
If the camshaft bearing assembly is fitted the wrong
way round the camshaft bearings will not be lubri':
cated.
IDLER SHAFT MARKING. THE BULGE IN THE HOLE ON
THE IDLER SHAFT CHAINWHEEL SHOULD LINE UP
WITH THE SMALL HOLE IN THE KEEPER PLATE.
/
SA.1\EI
210-7
Page 144
FITTING THE CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
CAMSHAFT MARKINGS
21.
Assemble the camshaft sprocket and mounting plate
if they have been disassembled, fit the transmission
chain over the camshaft sprocket, and lower the
transmission chain and mounting plate past the camshaft flange until the center stud of the sprocket is
lined up with the camshaft.
25.
26.
27.
Mount the curved chain guide plate together with
the mounting plate (the chain guide plate nearest
the block) with two screws and stretch the chain
somewhat.
Check the setting "camshaft-crankshaft-idler shaft".
Fit the chain tensioner as follows:
Three different versions are available and the assembly procedure for each is different.
Version A:
a. Before installation, remove the tensioner neck
S6078
B
INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION CHAIN
22.
23.
24.
56079
Rotate the camshaft sprocket until the screw holes
match the threaded holes in the camshaft flange.
Fit the transmission chain over the other sprockets
so that it hangs straight from the camshaft to the
crankshaft.
NOTE! The shaft settings must not be altered.
Guide the center stud of the camshaft sprocket
into the camshaft. Fit the screws.
C
CHAIN TENSIONER
Version A.
Version B.
Version C.
( Reynolds)
(Jwis, earlier design)
(Jwis, later design)
b. Tension the spring, by turning the ratchet sleeve
(actuated by the spring) clockwise and at the
same time pushing it until it locks in its innermost position.
210-8
SA_.1'B
--
Page 145
,..
LOCKING THE RATCHET SLEEVE, VERSION A
ASSEMBLING THE CHAIN TENSIONER, VERSION 8 AND C
c. Fit the tensioner neck and a spacer piece, so that
the tensioner neck will not bottom in the chain
tensioner housing and release the self-adjuster.
Version Band C:
d. Mount the chain tensioner with-guide plate on
the engine block.
e. Press the curved chain guide against the chain
to stretch it and push the tensioner neck against
the spacer piece. Remove the spacer piece while
the chain is kept tensioned. Then adjust to leave
a clearance of 0.02" (0.5 mm) between the housing and the tensioner neck.
Tighten the chain guides.
CHAIN TENSIONER WITH SPACER PIECE
Version B and C:
a. Place the lock washer with the spiral rod
(ratchet sleeve) in the chain tensioner housing.
Place the lock washer with the spiral rod in tlie
chain tensioner housing.
b. Version B:
Fit the spring with the smaller diameter against
the lock washer.
c. Fit the tensioner neck in the housing by simultaneously pressing and turning it into ·its inner
position. The tensioner neck must be held depressed while the chain tensioner is being fitted,
right until the chain has been tensioned.
ADJUSTING THE PLAY
28.
29.
SAMI
.L
f. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn in its normal
sense and check the chain tension. The movement of the tensioner neck from its butted position must be at least 0.02" (0.5 mm) and not
more than 0.06" ( 1.5 mm).
Remove the nut (screw) from the camshaft sprocket
center.
Fit the transmission chain cover and the alternator
bracket. Install a new gasket on the transmission
chain cover and trim the gasket flush with the mating surface of the transmission.
210-9
Page 146
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
35.
36.
37.
Fit the belt pulley and tighten the screw with the
prescribed torque.
Mount the oil pump spacing piece with gasket.
Fit the oil pump suction line. Make sure that the
suction tube gasket is the.right way round.
Fit the oil filter.
Fit the inlet manifold. Connect water hoses and
crankcase ventilation hoses. Screw in the engine
lifting eye.
Carbureted engine:
Mount the carburetor.
Injection engine:
Mount the throttle valve housing.
Mount the thermostat housing.
Fit the exhaust manifold and radiation shield. As
from model 1976 (2-branch exhaust manifold).
grind the sealing surfaces of the manifold using a
face plate, and fit special gaskets (two smaller and
one larger) between the flanges of the exhaust manifold and the radiation shield.
38.
Mount the distributor with drive shaft for the oil
pump and make basic ignition setting. See Group 3.
CAUTION
The gear on the distributor and corresponding gear
on the idler shaft are available in two different versions, which must not be confused.
39.
40.
41.
Fit the oil pump.
Fit the valve cover.
Mount the clutch. (Manual transmission)
CHANGING PISTONS, PISTON RINGS AND BIG-END
BEARINGS
(Engine mounted in work stand)
Disassembly
1. Remove the oil filter.
FITTING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
MODEL 1976)
GASKETS (AS FROM
In cars with 2-branch exhaust manifolds, difficulty
due to contraction may arise when the outer flange
is to be secured. In such cases, use a file to make the
bolt holes in the flange oval so that the bolts can ·
be installed.
REMOVING THE OIL FILTER
Tool 7862014
2. Remove the valve cover.
3. Remove the camshaft sprocket as follows:
a. Turn the crankshaft to ignition position for No. 1
cylinder.
b. Screw an M8 nut onto the threaded centre stud of
the camshaft sprocket (model 1975) or use a camshaft sprocket retaining screw (as from mo'del 1976)
and clamp the sprocket against the mounting plate
provided for the purpose.
CAUTION
Tighten the nut (screw) securely to immobilize the
center stud. Otherwise the chain tensioner will tighten the chain and lock in a new position so that the
sprocket cannot be refitted.
MODIFYING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
210-10
Page 147
c. Undo the retaining screws from the camshaft sprocket. Separate the wheel from the camshaft plate until
it hangs freely by its center stud in the mounting
plate.
4. a. Unscrew all cylinder head screws.b. Remove the cylinder head screws and mount two
guide pins.
c. Remove the screws from the transmission chain
cover.
5. Disconnect the hoses from the inlet manifold and the
carburetor/throttle valve housing. Unscrew the spark
plugs.
6. Lift off cylinder head with carburetor/throttle valve
housing, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and valve
mechanism.
7. Remove the big-end bearing caps and push the pistons
complete with connecting rods out of the cylinders.
Protect the studs with pieces of plastic hose.
NOTE! Remove any crusts and deposits of soot from
th!! top ends of the cylinders.
Fitting piston ringsin a new or rebored cylinder
1. Push the piston rings down into the cylinder one at a
time, using an inverted piston head to position them
correctly.
2. Measure the ring gap with a feeler gauge (see illustration). Correct gap sizes are given in the specifications.
If necessary, widen the gap with a special file.
Fitting pistons
To fit pistons to_the cylinder bores, use a feeler gauge
1/2" wide. To measure, first oil the cylinder Iining lightly
and insert the piston without rings in the cylinder in the
position in which it will ultimately be working. Attach
the feeler gauge to a spring balance and place it between
the piston and cylinder bore at right angles to the axis of
the piston pin (see illustration). At a tractive force of 8-
MEASURING PISTON RING GAP
3. Try the piston rings in their respective grooves by
rolling. Measure the clearance at a few points too.
Fitting piston ringsin worn cylinders
Rings to be fitted in a worn cylinder must be tried at the
lower limit of travel of the piston, as the bore will be narrowest at this point.
Assemblyof piston rings
Use a piston ring tool to position the rings as illustrated.
Place the lower compression ring with the side marked
"top" uppermost. Oil the piston and rings before assem-
MEASURING PISTON CLEARANCE
12 N (1.8-2.6 lb., 0.8-1.2 kp), the mean value of the
clearance equals the thickness of the feeler gauge. Repeat
the test with the piston at several different depths on the
piston. Spare pistons are stocked in both standard and
oversize diameters. Where the latter are used, the cylinder
bore must be honed or rebored to obtain the correct piston clearance. Concerning piston clearance, see Group 0.
UMf
210-11
Page 148
NOTE
The groove on top of the piston should be facing
the transmission end.
2. Mount big-end bearing caps with bearing halves.
3. Fit the cylinder head gasket.
4. Mount the cylinder head. Remove the guide pins and
refit the screws. Tighten the cylinder head screws to
the specified torque in two steps; first to 59 Nm (6
kpm, 43 ft.lb.) and then 93 Nm (9.5 kpm, 69 ft.lb.).
The order of tightening is illustrated below. Tighten
finally after the engine has been warmed up and then
cooled off for about 30 minutes. Insert and tighten
the transmission chain cover screws.
Screws are re-tightened after 2.000 km (1.200 miles).
PISTON RING TOOL
bling. Rotate the compression rings so that gaps in alternate rings will be at 180° to each other, positioned alternately over the two ends of the piston pins.
Make sure, too, that the spring gaps of the top and bot•
tom rings in the three-piece scraper ring are staggered.
Step 1: 60_Nm (44 ft.lb./6.0 kpm)
Step 2: 95 Nm (70 ft.lb./9.5 kpm)
Torque
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PISTON AND CONNECTING
PISTON RINGS
5. Fit the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft, making
sure that the notches on the camshaft and bearing cap
are in line. Tighten and lock the retaining screws.
Remove the nut on the camshaft sprocket retaining
screw (model 1975) or remove the retaining screw and
remount it to the sprocket (as from model 1976).
Check at the same time that the mark on the flywheel
is in line with the mark on the cylinder block.
6. Mount the valve cover.
7. Connect hoses and cables to the valve cover, inlet
manifold and carburetor/throttle valve housing. Screw
in the spark plugs and connect the ignition cables.
8. Install the oil filter.
ROD WITH BEARINGS AND
1. Piston
2. Connecting rod
3. Bearing
4. Bearing cap
5. Compression rings
6. Three-piece oil scraper ring
Installation
1. Install pistons and connecting rods using the piston
installing tool 7862287.
SAAB
Page 149
CYLINDER HEAD
c. Jack up and place blocks under the rear end of
the power plant. Remove the engine mounting
screw in the cylinder head.
d. Remove the screws at the transmission cover.
e. Lift off the cylinder head.
DISASSEMBLY
(Engine in car)
ASSEMBLING
1.
2.
3.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Disconnect the battery cables.
Drain off coolant through the radiator and engine
block drain cocks.
Carbureted engine:
Remove the inlet hose and disconnect the throttle
and choke cables from the carburetor.
Injection engine:
Remove the rubber bellows from between the air
flow sensor and the throttle valve housing, and disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle valve
housing.
Disconnect the cable from the temperature transmitter.
a. Detach the vacuum hose of the power assist cylinder from the inlet manifold.
b. Carbureted engine:
Detach the fuel hose and the vacuum hose from
the carburetor.
b. Injection engine:
Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel distributor
to the injection valves. Tape the ends of the lines
to prevent dirt from entering. Remove the stay
from the throttle valve housing mounting.
Undo the hose clamps at the connections to the
thermostat housing, water pump and inlet manifold.
Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition cables.
Remove the valve cover.
Remove the camshaft sprocket as follows:
a. Model 1975:
Screw a MB nut on to the threaded center stud
of the camshaft sprocket and clamp the center
stud against the mounting plate provided for the
purpose.
a. As from model 1976:
Bolt the mounting plate to the center of the
camshaft sprocket using one of the camshaft
sprocket retaining screws.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Step 1: 60 Nm (44 ft.lb./60 kpm)
Step 2: 95 Nm (70 ft.lb./9.5 kpm)
Torque
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SJM4
6.
tion. Insert and tighten the transmission chain
cover screws. Retighten after the engine has
been warmed up and then cooled off for about
30 minutes.
b. Screws are retightened after 2,000 km (1,200
miles)
Mount the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft. Unscrew the nut (screw) from the center of the sprocket.
CAUTION
The nut (screw) on the camshaft sprocket center
must not on any account be unscrewed before the
sprocket is tightly screwed to the camshaft.
CAUTION
Tighten the nut (screw) securely to immobilize the
center stud. Otherwise the chain tensioner will tighten the chain and lock in a new position so that the
sprocket cannot be refitted. The chain tensioner cannot be reset without lifting the engine out of the car.
11.
Carefully scrape off old gasket material from the
contact surfaces (emery cloth must not be used).
Check that the contact surfaces are plane.
Fit the new cylinder head gasket over the two guide
pins.
Make sure that the markings on the camshaft and
bearing cap are in line with each other.
Check that the flywheel mark is in line with the
mark on the cylinder block and that the ignition is
set on No. 1 cylinder.
a. Mount the cylinder head. Tighten the cylinder
head screws to the specified torque in two stages.
The order of tightening is shown in the illustra-
7.
Mount the engine mounting screw in the cylinder
b. Undo the retaining screws from the camshaft
sprocket. Separate the wheel from the camshaft
plate until it hangs free in the mounting plate by
the center stud.
a. Unscrew and remove all cylinder head screws.
b. Mount two guide pins (tool 8392128). in two
of the cylinder head screw holes.
-
SA'\B
211-1
Page 150
head. Remove the blocks under the power plant.
Lock the bolt by means of Loctite 242 or 270 or
the equivalent.
LOCKING THE ENGINE STAY SCREW
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
211-2
Fit the valve cover. Undamaged gasket can be remounted.
Fit the distributor cap complete with ignition cables.
Bolt the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Connect the throttle control cable (choke control
cable).
Connect the hoses to the thermostat housing, water
pump and inlet manifold and tighten the hose
clamps.
Connect the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
to the servo cylinder. Connect the fuel hoses. Mount
the stay at the throttle valve housing.
Connect the cables to the ignition coil and temperature transmitter.
Mount the inlet hose (rubber bellows).
Close the drain cocks and fill with coolant.
Connect the battery cables.
SAAB